redvalkyrie Posted November 8, 2014 Report Share Posted November 8, 2014 (edited) I did my 4AGE rebuild in 2005 and it's still going strong. Over here in the States rebuilt 4AGEs have a reputation for not working so well. My opinion would be the problem is with the builder, not the engine. So, take this for what it's worth... Are you starting with a known good running engine or has it spun a bearing? If the engine is undamaged, plastigauge the bearings and see if you are in or out of spec. 4AGEs can have five totally different main bearings on one crank--I've never seen one that had one size for all of the bearings. There is a code stamped on the block--get the Toyota engine manual. It will tell you which bearings came in the engine when it left the factory. If you don't need to turn the journals, order the correct coded bearings from Toyota. Same thing goes for the rods. If you do need to turn the main bearing/journals, make sure your machinist understands he isn't starting with one size for all of the bearings. Meaning, if he turns number one .0020" he may have to turn number two .0040" to get the same size for both. Make sense? And always check a machinists work before putting an engine together. Anything that moves should be balanced including your pressure plate and clutch. Use Toyota gaskets at least on the intake and exhaust manifolds as they're metal compared to paper. Metal headgaskets can be sensitive--make sure both the head and block have an extremely smooth face with no milling marks. ARP head stud have to be re-torqued after 500 miles. If you decide to use ARP studs and a distributor the distributor gear will have to be clearanced. Toyota didn't use a gasket on the oil pan but most gasket kits, except the Toyota kit, come with a cork oil pan gasket. I prefer to use the gasket rather the Toyota sealant. I do, however, coat all paper gaskets with the Toyota sealant--it'll hold the gaskets in place while working, help them seal, and help keep them from going hard. Hope that helps. Edited November 8, 2014 by redvalkyrie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRD ke70 Posted November 8, 2014 Report Share Posted November 8, 2014 read this, http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/showthread.php/26285-WARNING-ARP-Head-Studs-proven-wrong?highlight=head+studs it's good information. when bolting the sump on to the block, make sure you use the right length bolts at the back, around where the crank seal is. Have been caught out once, the bolts are quite short and any longer will cause the rear main seal to leak. Oh and a BRAND new crank from Toyota is $550, good peice of mind if you're going to flog the ʞ©$ɟ out of it. Don't use any shims or shim kit on the oil pump, there don't need it. Oil preesure should be around the 55-65 psi, no higher. Over 6500 (with a shim kit) they supply way to much oil to the head, could be a reason why so many people have problems with oil out the breathers. Small ports are so bad. good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crunk81us Posted November 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2014 Wow. Now there's some information. Thanks so much for the effort! New crank 550? Now that's tempting! Engine was running no knocks or rattles. Had a leaky rear main seal. I've also been tossing up whether to build the engine myself. I'm pretty good at mechanics and know the basics.. Been quoted 1200 bucks to build it. Not including any machining or balancing etc. but this guy has a 7 sec dragster he built himself.. So I guess he knows what he's doing. I wld hate to build it myself and make a stupid mistake. I also know that a big shopping list doesn't always equal big numbers or a reliable engine. So I'm leaning towards putting the extra $ towards having it built by a professional. And just for full disclosure.. My engine is probably going to have cost me more than the total build of my car so far. LOL!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldeskewltoy Posted November 10, 2014 Report Share Posted November 10, 2014 (edited) for those interested my parts list (ordered and already have): all going in a smallport.. camtech 290 degree intake and exhaust cams hd valve springs fully rebuilt' date=' ported and port matched head and intake toda cam pulleys (only used part in build.. in great condition though) HKS (from memory) timing belt 12:1 cp pistons spool rods acl race bearings arp head studs, rod bolts, flywheel bolts lightweight flywheel 5 puck clutch trd .8mm hg ttt lightweight pulley there will be other bits and pieces like water pump etc but thats the boring stuff ;) all will be machined honed and balanced. not totally decided but looking at microtech with race dash will be running e85 and dependant on clearances and cc of heads etc, hoping to machine to close to 13:1 comp. Also hoping it will stay a non interference engine thanks to the large valve recess in the cp pistons. [/quote'] Are the CP pistons custom? What is the crown volume? What is your heads chamber volume? What are the pistons installed deck height - does the edge of the piston stick above, or below the edge of the block? BE CAREFUL using the ARP head studs... make sure the front head bolt hole on the exhaust side (oil feed to head) is clear of the ARP stud... you MIGHT want to get that bolt hole overbored by .030" Any photos of the port work??? Edited November 10, 2014 by oldeskewltoy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redvalkyrie Posted November 11, 2014 Report Share Posted November 11, 2014 BE CAREFUL using the ARP head studs... make sure the front head bolt hole on the exhaust side (oil feed to head) is clear of the ARP stud... you MIGHT want to get that bolt hole overbored by .030" Is that an issue only small port heads or both large and small port? I'm actually having trouble picturing this...you are describing the head bolt/ARP stud that sits closest to the distributor, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldeskewltoy Posted November 11, 2014 Report Share Posted November 11, 2014 Is that an issue only small port heads or both large and small port? I'm actually having trouble picturing this...you are describing the head bolt/ARP stud that sits closest to the distributor, right? yes... It is the mounting point under the distributor - http://www.hachiroku.net/forums/showthread.php?t=32963 as far as I know... its all 16V 4AG heads... now just to quell the riot, it doesn't happen with all the heads... BUT it is safest to be proactive if possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crunk81us Posted November 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2014 Engine hasn't been mocked up yet. I do have the spec sheets for the pistons. But I'm about 400 kms away and not headed back for a while. No pics of the ports, the head is still all wrapped up atm, and I don't really want to unwrap it until everything else is ready. I will try and remember to get pics of it all. The pistons are advertised as 12:1, yes I know there's a lot more to determining the actual ratio than reading the box the pistons come in. But it is easily visible that they will project much further into the chamber than the standard smallport slugs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crunk81us Posted November 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2014 Omg I just read that link about the head studs. Thankyou so much! I think that would literally make me cry if that happened to me. I will check that hole and make sure the oil is flowing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldeskewltoy Posted November 11, 2014 Report Share Posted November 11, 2014 as far as bearings are concerned.... I like OEM bearings if you can use them. The key (imho) to a solid Toyota "A" engine is proper bearing tolerances.... Since you are running wet sump, I'd use OEM specs Over the years Toyota adjusted clearances a small amount IDEALLY... keep the mains in the middle of the spec... I like to get the mains between .023 -.028mm AE92 - 42mm rod journal crank - main journals AE86 - 40mm rod journal crank - main journals AE111 - 42mm rod journal crank - main journals By keeping the mains in the middle you can go a bit looser on the rods if you choose... .035 - .040mm is my choice Rod clearances on AE86 and AE92... Rod clearances on AE111 Hope this helps....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redvalkyrie Posted November 12, 2014 Report Share Posted November 12, 2014 This is interesting info...it's obviously not an issue that everyone has and I don't have an answer. I must say I love my ARP studs because they are reusable and make installing the head much easier for one person to do because they align the head to the block. I became really tired of buying new torque to yield Toyota head bolts. You always hear about too much oil pooling in the head and the HKS oil pressure kit even blocks one feed hole. I do know that nearly every passage on my engine was filled with gunk--even after being cleaned in a hot tank. I made sure to clear all of the passages using various small tools. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crunk81us Posted November 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2014 question.. If i was to buy a spanking new crank, is there then any need to check the bearing clearances? or is it then just a matter of bolting it all together? I have ACL race for mains and rods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snot35 Posted November 16, 2014 Report Share Posted November 16, 2014 You'd still want to check. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
filfrederick Posted November 17, 2014 Report Share Posted November 17, 2014 and if you can, check the clearances with a mic. plastigauge can only check it in one direction and is a bit unreliable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldeskewltoy Posted November 17, 2014 Report Share Posted November 17, 2014 and if you can, check the clearances with a mic. plastigauge can only check it in one direction and is a bit unreliable. agreed.... BUT... to ACCURATELY measure those clearances... the common(under $50) micrometers, and calipers can be just as inaccurate. This is why I don't usually do my own bearings... but I have a shop I know/trust do them, they have VERY accurate equipment (to .0001") and I just triple check........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crunk81us Posted November 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2014 I have decided that the first car engine I personally rebuild is NOT going to be this one that I have poured lots of dollars into parts.. I am getting a very competent engine builder to do it for me. Its just not worth the worry and the second guessing of doing it myself. Also I have next to no spare time. Thanks everyone for your input and valuable information, it will be passed onto the builder. I will do a rebuild on one of these myself one day.. just not this one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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