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Ke70 Stalling/losing Power Help!!


Lvcaaa

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Hey guys

 

Recently purchased an 82 Corolla.

 

After picking it up drove it two hours to get home and all went well until the last 2k or so.

Every time I slow down to a stop it pretty much stalled. Once Id re start I had to have full choke just to start it even tho the engine was warm.

 

Spoke to the previous owner and he said it may have been the fuel filter as it was due for a change and that it had not been driven for 7 or so months. Suggested it may have kicked up a bit of crap from the bottom of the tank when I filled it up before the drive home.

 

Went down and got a new fuel filter today and swapped them over but its still doing the same thing.

Its fine sitting in park but as soon as I take it out of Park into Drive or Reverse it pretty much loses power and dies unless I work the shit out of the accelerator

 

Took a video so you guys could hear what it sounded like, you'll hear it more towards the end: https://vid.me/yMBQ

 

Any ideas on what could be causing this?

 

This is my first Corolla so its going to be a learning experience

 

Engine: 4k

Transmission: Auto

 

Help :)))

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Once Id re start I had to have full choke just to start it

 

Sounds like a carb problem- Maybe dirt has got stuck in a jet & is making it lean.

 

Looks like you're going to start by learning about carbs & all those horrible hoses that are on the stock system. Check out all the little vac hoses and look for any splits. Replace any damaged ones or block them all up with a 10mm length of a 4inch nail, except the vac advance one to the dizzy and the one to the charcoal canister.

 

You should look inside the carb and take out the jets. Hose them out with petrol from a syringe & then hose petrol through the drillings that the jets lead to. I have that problem with my Datsun when the fuel dries out and have had to do it a couple of times over the years.

 

Run a 14 spanner over the bolts holding the manifolds onto the head, just in case they are loose.

 

The stock auto is a horrible piece of shit to own. I changed ours completely when my daughter & I bought it, and I'm about to do the same to the second one I've got. It hates to start, dies all the time until really warm and is so slow I get mum's with strollers walking past me going up hills... It idles in the garage and dies when I put it in reverse to go up the driveway. You will learn left-foot braking to keep the power on when trying to get moving!

 

The Girl's KE70 is quite a different beast, although the mods have been simple and cheap. Take a look through the thread in my sig.

 

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Also- take a look down the carb throat before you start it and open the throttle quickly. You should see a squirt of petrol go down the throat from the accelerator pump jet. If you don't, that is your problem.

Edited by altezzaclub
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I'm not really confident in myself to strip apart the carby and put it back together again. Might be an option to just take to the mechanics and let them sort it out.

 

I was reading a post and apparently it could be an issue with the dizzy and rotor as well? Once again wouldn't have a clue how to fix it myself.

 

If I was to take it to the mechanics what would be a guess on how much it would cost to get the carby fixed as well as the dizzy and rotor?

Would a new/upgraded carby be an option?

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Nah- these moors are dead simple! If you're ever going to learn about motors this is the time. Do you own a multimeter? A set of feeler gauges? An air compressor?

 

So, what makes you think there is something amiss with the dizzy??

 

Look up how they work, and then take the points out. Open them in your hand and see if the two mating faces are reasonably flat or if one is burned hollow and the other has a volcano on it. If they are burned, replace them and get a new condensor also. Reassemble them, and with the points rubbing block on the tip of a dizzy lobe set the gap to 13thou. Put a tiny spot of grease on the dizzy shaft cam so it ends up on the inside of the points rubbing block to keep it lubricated as it turns.

 

Carefully make sure they don't earth out the wire from the coil when the points are open, and a $10 multimeter is good for that. When they close they short out the coil and cause the spark, and then they open and stop the flow of power through the coil.

 

The plate in the dizzy that they are mounted on should turn if you just suck on the vac advance diaphram hose. That's how the vacuum signal from the throttle influences the ignition timing. If the dizzy is lubricated it should all be good, but if it is dry and rusty in there you will have to sort it out. Let us know what its like..

 

Once you have the gap set, the only other adjustment is the timing that it fires the spark plugs. The easiest is to turn the motor until the pulley mark shows 10degrees before top dead centre. The loosen the dizzy clamp nut slightly and turn on the ignition. If yuo turn the dizzy to close the points, then turn it bck again to open them, you should hear a 'crack' and see a spark. That is when it fires the spark plug, so do it a few times adn get it just sparking at 10deg. Do up the dizzy clamp bolt again.

 

Over time and Km the rubbing block wears away, changing the ignition timing and the 'dwell', the time within the turning cycle that the points stay closed. This affects how strong the spark is, so you get misfires.

 

Pop the plugs out and set the gaps to 25 to 30thou. Line up all 4 and take a photo of the tips and post it up. Don't worry about the smoke when you start it up, oil always goes down the plug holes when you do this, an abysmal part of the design.

 

There you have just tuned the ignition system!

 

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The carby is not hard. All this shit is on the 'net, probably lots on Youtube. If you just take it to a random garage it will cost hundreds for the carb and maybe only one hundy for the dizzy. New carb.. well a Weber DCOE and manifold will set you back a grand...

 

Doing it yourself will save you thousands of dollars over the years you own the car. If you're lucky there is a Rollaclub member living near enough to give you a hand.

 

Here-

https://www.google.com.au/?gfe_rd=cr&ei=2cL2VcP7KM7u8wf1nYHwCg&gws_rd=ssl#q=how+to+replace+points+in+a+distributor

 

piles of vids on this page alone.

 

This is a good start-

http://www.dorikaze.net/showthread.php?37442-How-to-rebuilt-Aisin-Carb-2T-3T-3A-4A

 

have fun!

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Wow thanks mate!

 

I found a guy around my area whose an expert in Corollas (owns like 6 of them) and he came around and had a look. Said it was something to do with my timing and a faulty spark plug hence why it was misfiring and stalling on low revs.

 

Gunna take it around to his place on Saturday and his going to fix her up, said its only small and won't take long.

 

Guess I should pay close attention and learn as much as I can!

 

Thanks again!

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Nice one!

 

Ask him endless questions & learn as much as you can from him, its not hard and once you pick it up you're set for life!

 

There are electronic conversions for the ignition system that will put out more than triple the voltage so they burn the spark plugs clean. You can buy an electronic dizzy that just drops in, or the insides are changed to electronic parts.

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Just my 2 cents worth.

I bought a ke35 with a 4k/5k combo engine a year ago. I had no mechanical knowledge and I'm not good at getting things back together.

The 4k corolla is really straight forward. There's nothing there that isn't needed and everything eventually makes sense. You can find everything that you're looking for under the bonnet.

I've managed to change a head gasket, service the auto transmission, rebuild the master cylinder, change the slave cylinders, tune the car so it's runs sweet and some other stuff without wrecking anything. There's always something to catch you out but that's part of the challenge. There's great help here and from your new best friend.(the mechanic). Most of the mechanical parts are easy to buy from supercheap/veals/eBay etc and cost around $30. There's good repair manuals available and YouTube. My favourite is the genuine Toyota yellow books, which are written assuming you know nothing. Basically it's a great car to learn on.

(Ive got the 3 speed trimatic auto and it's not a heap of shit. My motors got a bit more power than standard which might be why my auto is fine)

 

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