altezzaclub Posted March 25, 2016 Report Share Posted March 25, 2016 (edited) Ok, I'll write up what I can remember so others don't spend as much time as I did.. As usual, I never thought to take photos until too late. This is on The Girls KE70, over here- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/ Steve started collecting 4AGEs and KE70s the moment we decided to rally one, so as he had one in his daily and we'd had a couple of 4AGE wagons pass through our hands recently, I thought I'd find out what they were really like by building one- Cheap and simple of course! Starting with the fuel system- I bought the pumps and mounts (and lines) from a VL Commy at the wreckers, found out the pumps were duds and bought new ones from Melb. I also scored a Subaru fuel filter, one of the many items a wrecker doesn't charge you for. That was cut in half and gutted, then silver-soldered back together. I drilled a couple of holes in the bottom and fitted barbs for two more fuel hoses, giving a small, neat surge tank. The system overall lookd like this. The main pump and surge tank go at the front of the car, so its all low-pressure lines and hoses. The disadvantage mentioned was that the fuel gets hot from being recycled, but I'll wait and see. I figured the best mounting points were under the inlet manifold, there is a lot of room in there. I quick weld job on some scrap steel gave a mount to clamp the surge tank onto- Meanwhile down the back I took the tank out, removed both access plates and started cutting the suction line shorter for the lift pump. The plate that the lines go through is easily drilled for the wiring, and I used the Commodore stuff for that. The pickup sits right on the bottom, as photographed through the fuel gauge hole.. Edited April 1, 2016 by altezzaclub 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted March 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2016 Using stock lines meant it all plumbed up as usual, so I moved to the front. The feed line from the tank got cut shorter, and the tank return line was bent into shape. The overflow from the injector rail reached perfectly. For the main pump I welded a bracket onto the diagonal stay under the manifold and hung the cut-down Commodore rubber mounting bracket on it. I figured that would give Commodore quietness to the pump, rather than wrapping it in a bit of old inner tube! It certainly did, you can't hear it inside the car... but that's because the LIFT PUMP makes the noise! Luckily that's pretty quiet so it all sounds quite stock inside. You can see that the only high-pressure line I used was the 40mm bit between the main pump and the filter. After the filter it goes into the wire-mesh hose to the rail. The last thing was to mount the charcoal can in a handy spot above the filter. So far the fuel system has been troble-free and it will go up long hills with low fuel levels without dying. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted March 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2016 The exhaust system took a long time, it is cobbled together from stuff lying around as usual and all hand-welded with a stick, as I didn't have the MiG over that time. The motor came with the stock cast-iron exhaust manifold and that ends in two pipes. I measured it up and headed for the wrecker- I found a VK Commodore with the 2-into-1 part so I grabbed that. I cut it into 7 pieces and re-assembled it differently. Then I found some heat-shield in the scrap pile and riveted that around it. The clamps were quite different between Toyota and Holden, but I just cut one Holden ring in half and made the seagull-wing shape out of some steel plate. Amazingly it fitted, clearing the hydraulic clutch slave, the steering, and the chassis rail by a few mm each side. Someone had fitted a 2" exhaust on their KE70 shortly before it was scrapped, so that made up the rest. Then Steve comes home and says "You'll need a catalytic converter to get it engineered.." So out came the section with the resonator and a cat from some Nissan V6 that I'd found at the wrecker went in, complete with a heat shield. The exhaust system all works fine, a tad noisy for my tastes, but why would someone fit a 2" to a KE70 if they wanted it quiet... It sounds lovely from outside, just like the Hoonicorn. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted March 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2016 With the motor in its obvious I've done the basic conversion.. You need the AE71 cross-member and hydraulic clutch stuff, and have to rip out the dash to get to the pedal box to fit the clutch master setup.. all a pain, but not unusual or difficult. Odd things like the short throttle cable I don't remember, it came out of some car lying around the Woolshed. Steve has a giant alloy radiator from Ebay in his, and another for the rally car. I thought I'd try somethng else, and bought a Mitsi Lancer rad with both fans for not much at the wrecker. It has the outlets on both sides like the 4AGE. Then I changed my mind as it meant cutting the radiator hole in the front another 200mm wider, as it is a wide thin single-row modern one, and I just used the fan on the stock rad. Having been assured it will overheat and die, I changed the thermosensor as I'd heard the 4AGE one only takes the KE70 gauge up to half. True too, it has twice the resistance of the stock one. This introduced a problem as the KE70 has a tapered thread and just does up tight, while the 4AGE seals against a shoulder. The last couple of mm of swing as I screwed the KE70 sensor in snapped the thread off the 4AGE outlet! These are unusually difficult to get hold of, and the engineer said it wouldn't weld.. but he found the right tap and let me use his gear to drill the shoulder deeper and extend the thread. There was enough to take the KE70 sender in the end. What my stupidity did show was that the usual Woolshed mudwasps had been busy! They had blocked the bypass between the pump and the outlet, so it wasn't all bad news. I'd never have seen that normally. I found random radiator hoses that matched the curves and took a bit of galv water pipe from the scrap heap. It all fitted and is attached to a fitting on the radiator base 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted March 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2016 While fitting the rad I'd also tackled the airbox. Initially I measured the gap in that corner and then wandered around the wrecker's looking under bonnets. The best came from a Daewoo Nubira- He doesn't charge for stuff like that, and I tipped it around until it fitted best, even though the filter works backwards. I cut up a piece of alloy and folded it into a cradle that holds the airbox from sliding sideways and takes it's weight. The flexible hose goes straight onto the throttle body at the right diameter, and when I'm keen I can worry about a cold air inlet. The reason I did them together is that the radiator fan mount holds the airbox in from the other side, so it has nowhere to go. The smaller of the Lancer fans bolts on beautifully, a piece of angle up one side and some random steel arms on the other. The shroud doesn't block much of the radiator, something that worries me about a lot of shrouds I've seen. After all, the fan hardly ever comes on in real life, once the car is moving it cools by speed airflow and the shroud reduces that. It all seems to work fine, sitting at halfway up the gauge. Turning the heater on doesn't affect it, so the thermostat must be doing its job. It heats up when sitting idling as expected, and I have a manual switch on the fan for that. There is a thermoswitch in the mail that will be fitted in the top rad hose, and I have an LED that will come on when the fan is running (I hope!) If it is a problem in the future I'll either chop the body out for the Lancer's, or buy an alloy one and add even more weight to the nose. Before then I'd probably make the galv pipe into a finned tank to hold an extra litre of water! It is surprising the temperature difference between the radiator top and that galv pipe, from too hot to hold down to coolish. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted March 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2016 The wiring was the last part- Overall, you need the KE70 chassis loom to supply permanent 12V power, ignition power and starting power. It takes back temperature and oil readings, and the alternator wiring. The rest is all in the 4AGE engine loom... haha! The best way to do this is through a Circuit Opening Relay (COR) relay box, which most cars have these days. I took it out of a Daihatsu that Steve has used in a demo derby a few years back.. This will supply power and signals to the radiator fan, the EFi setup, and turn the fuel pumps off should the motor stop with the ignition on.. such as in a crash! The overall layout is this- You fit a COR box, make a new loom to go from that under the radiator to the spare wires hanging out of the 4AGE engine loom, and wire up the ECU... simple. These are the KE70 chassis circuits you need for the COR. They pop out where the 4K coil sits and carry 12V ignition, the tacho wire and power when cranking. The 4AGE starter motor supply is straight off the usual KE70 wires on the passenger's side. Other KE70 wiring includes the oil pressure and water temperature. Swap the 4K oil pressure switch and temperature sender for the 4AGE ones, then you will have to lengthen one wire and shorten the other to make them fit. To run the 4AGE coil you use the KE70 ignition wire that appears on the passenger's side. On a slanty here are two wires that go from one side to the other, a black/orange and a purple. On a flattie there is only one. I used the B/O ignition wire to turn on a relay that took power from the battery and fed it to the 4AGE coil. The purple I hooked up to the coil -ve, and it takes a tacho signal back to the driver's side, where I joined it to the black KE70 tacho wire. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted March 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2016 (edited) This is the Daihatsu COR box. You can see it has fuses and relays for rad fan, EFi, COR and also headlamps, A/C and ABS, so extra circuits if you want them It took a couple of hours with a test meter to trace the circuits and work out what wires coming out went to where. I adjusted the plastic mounts and it sits on the strut tower looking quite factory- Inside, this is happening... Power is fed in from the 4AGE alty, just half a metre away. Two KE70 switching wires go in, one on ignition from the KE70 B/O nearby, and one from the KE70 cranking wire also sitting there to bypass the 4K ballast resistor. Those are the blue highlights. When it is working, it powers the green highlights- the rad fan and its temperature switch, and the fuel pumps. The yellow highlights are the signal wires you have to run to the ECU. Now, wiring.. For the lift pump I took two long wires from the Celcia loom & soldered them together at each end in paralell, because I was worried about one wire being able to carry enough power. Actually I had to lengthen them some more to get them into the engine bay alongside the KE70 loom under the mudguard. The main pump was easy, it is right by the COR, as is the alty for power supply. That leaves the signal wires to the ECU. Hanging on the end of the 4AGE loom at the front are some wires that don't get used, but they will take power back to the ECU for you. You need to get some wires from the three COR box signal wires to go under the radiator and join to these unused wires. Add the alty wires going across the bay to the KE70 alty plug on the battery relay box, and add the fan wires to them for some of the way. This under-rad loom is the only one you need to make up. Coming up- all those things like STA, Fc and BF... Edited March 25, 2016 by altezzaclub 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted March 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2016 (edited) Some time spent with a multimeter will tell you which wires go where in those extras, and you join the 3 signal wires to them. Just cut them off at the ECU plug end and label them, and leave them hanging. Then you can tape up and cover the under-rad loom. I haven't cut the other unused wires off yet, same with all the extra ones coming out of the COR box. The alty will have a round plug, so when you're at the wreckers get a couple from Camrys or whatever Toyotas are there. Add the COR box feed to the "B" terminal that sends power to the battery, and run the other two across under the rad to plug into the normal KE70 alty plug. Now to the bit that had me stumped... When you get the stock RWD 4AGE engine loom it has these plugs for the ECU, a 10pin, an 18pin and a 14pin. Cut off the right-hand one and throw it away, It is meant to go into a chassis loom plug on the car body, and the KE70 doesn't have it! That also means the KE70 doesn't have the OTHER chassis plug that goes into the ECU and powers it up... you have to go to the wrecker and cut one off a Camry! Leave 100mm length of wire on that one! Find a permanent 12V and an ignition 12V in the wiper relay box in the passenger's kick panel. Cut those and join three wires in, to go to the ECU. They supply the two +B pins and the BATT pin, giving chassis power to the ECU. I have the ECU mounted up behind the heater, the most common place so I assume it doesn't get cooked by the exhaust. Now find your three wires from the COR box coming in the spare wires in the 4AGE loom and cut the correct wires to hook them into the plugs at the right pins. You'll have to cut a couple of earth wires coming out of the ECU and earth them, but not all of them as I found out! Some are actually taking power INTO the ECU, they are 'earths' in the way that the ECU earths out some sensors. Edited March 25, 2016 by altezzaclub 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted March 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2016 Resources- here are the ones I used mostly- You can find them on the web easily enough. Pinout diagrams.. just what each pin does. Look at the computer, or look at the back of the plugs where the wires come out, and the pins are labelled from the top left. There is the STA, and the BF, and the Fc.. that's where your three signal wires from the COR have to plug in. Just snip an solder, or use strip connector junctions, I did both. You can always unscrew a strip connector. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted March 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2016 More odd stuff, of which very little seemed to agree with what I had in my hand. I haven't put in wire colours, very few seemed to match the diagrams. There are a lot of wires not used in the loom, so one day I might strip it all out and re-make it completely. Not only does the factory have stuff in it that isn't used, but we don't have ABS, A/C, pop-up lights, rear window heaters or wipers, speed sensors and whatever. When its engineered I'll take more photos, just to show what it looks like when finished. I was lucky, the motor loom ran fine and it has only small annoyances, like a wandering idle. PM me with any questions, I don't expect many people to look at this over a year. The main build thread on this car is here- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frosty Posted March 25, 2016 Report Share Posted March 25, 2016 :thumbsup: Thank you - a great informative and easy to follow read. Tags on the photos help as well. ... my favourite was the repurposing of the window slides :2thumbs: well done ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lildavo Posted March 30, 2016 Report Share Posted March 30, 2016 Best write up on this conversion to date. I just got myself an AE71 donor car and am hoping to get a start on this conversion in the next couple of months so this will be really helpful. Jeez you're keeping the folks at the Orange wreckers in a job :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted April 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2016 Thanks guys- Just finishing off little bits and pieces. The stickers arrived from AOK printers in Armidale, even before I paid for them!! I have some over, so if you want a little humour on your conversion, I can mail you one for $5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted April 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2016 The last few things... Inside here are two LEDs, one red & one green, made for putting in cars. They're a handful of bucks from Jaycar. I drilled a 5c piece to fit them side by side and filed it down to fit inside the plastic cap, which was in a packet of free samples.. It fits into the choke hole, no longer used. I soldered the two +ves together and ran a wire to one of the unused 14pin plug wires on the ECU, one that is live on ignition. That also supplies my fuel mixture display with power. I could have used any ignition power, but the ECU was handy. The red LED earths back down to the "W" pin on the ECU, which processes it and earths it out through pin "T", to go into "check engine light" mode. So normally it doesn't do anything unless I earth the "T" pin, and then it acts as a CEL and flashes any codes. The green LED earths out through the "+ve" side of my electric fan manual switch, so it only actually earths out when I turn the fan on. So I have a red light as a CEL and a green light for when the electric fan is on. They're easy to see from the driver's seat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted April 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2016 (edited) The thermoswitch fitting arrived from DirtDevil Racing up in Qld, so I sorted out the wiring for that. The feed is from the Daihatsu COR relay box and it earths out the relay switch to turn the relay on. The feed to the thermoswitch splits, going to the switch and also going to the manual switch in the car. Earthing either runs the fan & turns on the green LED. The main thing left is to sort out the idle, which seems a very very common problem on 4AGE conversions! Edited April 3, 2016 by altezzaclub Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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