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Help with brakes ke70


RussRolla

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Hi Russell,

                   I'd take them both off & have a quick look inside the slave cylinders.  You might find it is cheaper to just buy a new ones on line, than it is to have a brake specialist reco them.  

Cheers Banjo

 

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That's a little bit cheaper, than if you took your two (2) brake slave cylinders, to a specialist here in Australia, for reconditioning.  Last time I checked, which was about 2-3 years ago, they were quoting locally here, about $ 130.00 to recondition two (2) front brake slave cylinders.

Have you actually taken the suspect cylinder off & had a look inside ?  I've experienced the very same issue you describe previously; & after after 20 minutes with some wet & dry fine emery paper, & a new set of rubbers only, the problem was solved.

P.S.  Good idea to completely replace the complete brake fluid in the braking system at the same time.  Over time, the brake fluid "absorbs" moisture, & that is what causes the corrosion, & gumming issues, from what I've personally seen, over the years.

Hope that assists.

Cheers Banjo

 

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Hi Russell,

                   That is one very sweet looking flat nose KE70 !  It looks to be in immaculate condition. Is it a low mileage original, or has the car been reco'd at some point in time?

Love to see some more pics, & maybe some interior a shots.

You've done well !

Cheers Banjo

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hay Banjo, original paint, it needs new paint tho 40yrs takes its toll. I will take pic of inside next time for you too. But for now engine bay. Going to put battery in boot soon too. For the last 13 or so yrs I avoid driving in the rain or on wet roads. I Polished the body and fish oil under body every 12months. Always something to do... Russrolla

20180810_131412.jpg

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Hi Russell,

                 Oh, I wished my engine bay was as clean as yours.  Very nice !  Love the alloy radiator. Makes a big difference, doesn't it.  Do you have an electric radiator fan, in there behind the radiator ?  By all means put the battery in the boot, but make sure you get the fattest, thickest cable you can find, so you don't suffer voltage drop, to the starter, at the very time you need it most.  Did you fit the two (2) bonnet lockdowns on the front ?  I once had a bonnet fly up at high speed, years ago, which didn't break the windscreen, but did put a crease in the bonnet.   Scary episode !    It wasn't a Toyota.  I vowed, I'd always fit some front bonnet lock downs to my Rolla, but still haven't got around to it.  You have jerked my memory of that time, & I'll have a look on ebay tomorrow.  Thanks !

Cheers Banjo

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Hi Rolla club, just to let you all know this did not fit. My car is and ke70 XX with girlock brakes built in Australia. The new pistons are about 2 - 3mm to big. The kit I found on megazip.net is 

Search Toyota part by OEM part numbers: 04479-12060,New genuine parts Cylinder Kit, Disc Brake, Front, Toyota, 04479-12060 is used for Car & Auto: Toyota COROLLA, Toyota SPRINTER/ CARIB/ TRUENO. 

Screenshot_20220322-165914.jpg

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Hi Russell,   That's a bummer !  Actually, when I posted you last night, after seeing the glorious engine bay of your KE-70, I meant to add a note at the end, to see how you went with your front brake calipers.

Had you stripped a caliper down, & removed the piston, before ordering them ?

Cheers Banjo

 

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Hi Russell,

Quote

Did you fit the two (2) bonnet lockdowns on the front ?  I once had a bonnet fly up at high speed, years ago, which didn't break the windscreen, but did put a crease in the bonnet.   Scary episode !    It wasn't a Toyota.  I vowed, I'd always fit some front bonnet lock downs to my Rolla, but still haven't got around to it.  You have jerked my memory of that time, & I'll have a look on ebay tomorrow.  Thanks !

One of the reasons I had not purchased a pair of bonnet "lock downs", is that the ones with the pins, eventually go rusty, as the plating is not very thick.  I did buy some on ebay this week, & found some quick release "push type" ones, that actually come in colours, so they do not stand out, visually. They will be here in a week or so, so I'll let you know, how they work out.  About $ 16.00 for a pair with free delivery.

image.png.7fc7ebd941cda48d8c9bc85ea5305b12.png

 

 

Has anyone else on here used this particular type on their bonnets before ?

Cheers Banjo

 

 

 

Edited by Banjo
adding copy
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Hi Si,

         Yes I remember the video in The Hoonicorn vs The World series, on Utube.

I quickly looked at it again, when the 4 Rotor had it's first run, & you can clearly see them in the engine bay shot.

image.thumb.png.fcb7ce69b6cc7c97253065269facae21.png

However, they didn't work; because the 4 Rotor lost it's "engine bonnet/cover, in the very first run.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n8_2rWB5vRw

 

Cheers Banjo

Edited by Banjo
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On 4/8/2022 at 10:48 AM, Banjo said:

Hi Russell,

One of the reasons I had not purchased a pair of bonnet "lock downs", is that the ones with the pins, eventually go rusty, as the plating is not very thick.  I did buy some on ebay this week, & found some quick release "push type" ones, that actually come in colours, so they do not stand out, visually. They will be here in a week or so, so I'll let you know, how they work out.  About $ 16.00 for a pair with free delivery.

image.png.7fc7ebd941cda48d8c9bc85ea5305b12.png

 

 

Has anyone else on here used this particular type on their bonnets before ?

Cheers Banjo

 

 

 

Hi Banjo, I have old school lock down pins very hard to find. Russ rolla

IMG_20220415_085606.jpg

IMG_20220415_085404.jpg

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