Jump to content

All Activity

This stream auto-updates

  1. Last week
  2. Sheds done and finally getting a chance to play with fibreglass again. I have been a little distracted with another car project but in between I’ve selling a few of front lips I have been making. I got asked a few times for a boot spoiler and wasn’t keen on selling the large version I made so decided to make a smaller easier to post version and one that’s a little more subtle. Similar process as before, and it’s almost ready to take a mould. Shame these plugs end up getting destroyed! Looks good in the funky blue topcoat.
  3. Earlier
  4. I don't know which particular one will fit, but there are three different sumps on 18RG motors, so keep an eye out for sumps & oil pumps as well as cross-members. You might be able to match an available cross-member to a different sump, Coronas and Celicas and whatever... There's a bit in here- Mid-sump photo https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/64027-how-not-to-build-a-rally-car/?tab=comments#comment-641089 Front-sump on this page. Note the oil pump mod someone did to make it fit! https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/69126-how-to-build-a-rally-car/page/3/#comments
  5. And let's keep up with this, and by this, now is time for the trunk that below the bumper reinforcements, it was very bad. So let’s start the grinder Also the rear panel was rotten and with a lot of holes After a lot of thought the best idea was to remove the rear panel to get better access, so I took a deep breath and started to remove all the spot welds, after a while it was something like this El Corolla Camino any one? You can almost Imagine the dropped tailgate And with more access, it was much easier to cut and remove the rusted metal. While I was nearby also started to cut the outside On both sides it was horrible And the pile of rusted metal to create from scratch was getting bigger and bigger. Also, in the back you can see the reinforcements that were actually in great shape
  6. Es posible que deba publicar una foto de la caja de cambios o buscar cosas en el catálogo de piezas y confirmar lo que tiene.
  7. I have a 1974 TA22 Celica with a 2T in it i wanna put an 18RG in so i just wants to know if anyone would know what cross member I needs I tried to get info from Melbourne's cash for cars scrap yard
  8. Hmm.. March to June, it is getting like Project Binky! The 5 is sitting awaiting its next run up at Leyburn, we've had three events with it and it is superb. The Evo3 however... well... The Cake was left behind the Evo3 as we pulled the motor down before the Orange rally in May and found a spun bearing and two cracked pistons. Josh bought a random motor from someone and a mate mailed up a box of pistons with rods and we ripped into it. The block from the new motor was good, still faint hone marks. However two pistons had collapsed ring lands and those cyls had detonation marks on the head and piston crowns. We took the block and crank. One set of pistons in the box had the rings frozen into the grooves with gunk, just plain never-change-the-oil gunk. It took a couple of hours to clean them up, and then we selected the best set of rings from all the ones we had. The head off the original engine I stripped and did a valve grind, Big G assembled the block with its mis-matched components and off we went to the Orange Rally. Things went OK until the flange nuts on the exhaust manifold came loose and we lost boost as the turbo dropped. That was from making a new manifold completely after the old one suffered fatigue & cracked in the Oberon Rally the month previously. More work needed as Josh found the turbo had side-play from having to use a restrictor for CAMS events, it was over-spinning and sucking itself up the intake tube, giving the bearing a lot of side thrust. Buy a new twin-scroll with bushes instead, push the Cake aside and make yet another new manifold. The gearbox and diffs arrived back from Adelaide after a check on last Wednesday & were fitted. The motor went in on Thursday and Josh could start making a new dump pipe to suit, and I finished in time to hit bed about midnight. He kept working.. I was up at 5am Friday & dragged him up at 7am to finish what we could. We left some things to be done before driver's briefing on Saturday and headed for Sydney, 8hours late at 2pm. 4hours later it was on a dyno, and at midnight Friday we loaded it back on the trailer, tuned for the new twin-scroll. We headed for Bega, 6hours away.. When he cunningly handed the Monster truck over to me about 2am and went to sleep, I found the heater didn't work.. -3deg outside at Canberra, ice on the outside of the windscreen, fog on the inside.. Arrived in time to unload it and start getting ready, Josh had been given #1 start but talked his way into getting #10 instead. First stage gave a terrible clattering sound so he slowed down and drove to the end, came 12th but on looking underneath he found the weight balancing the driveshaft was hitting the plastic underbody we'd just fitted. He said "Oh, I need a recipro saw..", and a guy standing there said "I've got one of those, here.." He was the medic for the stage and had one to cut people out of cars! So, plastic cut, into car, get control time and start immediately.. come first. Go to next stage.. come first again.... go to next stage.. hold cow! First again! By now he was second overall and followed up with a second place and a third in the next stages. Another refuel and we fitted the spotlights, & off into the night. All was not to be, over a bridge and brake for the left-hander to find no brakes! Up the bank fly over the top and into a storm-water retention dam!! So, we go out to the stage and wait for the follow-up to open the road, and pull it out with the Patrol Monster-truck. The inevitable locals turned up with giant utes with winches and lots of beers and helped, and it was just after midnight when we hauled it back to the motel. Damm, its Sunday & I last went to bed on Thursday! So we went and spectated on Sunday then drove home Monday making plans! Today we water-blasted it and put it on the hoist to take photos of the chassis rail pushed back into the driver's floor and the radiator rail crushed on both sides. The K-frame is a writeoff, but mechanically it seems OK. The most likely explanation is Josh took rear bias off before the night stages started to ease the pressure on the rear pads, but the Evo5 has the bias control knob turning the other way and in the dark he turned even more rear bias into the Evo3, and arrived with no front brakes at all. I hope he's right as I wouldn't want it to be another explanation we miss and have it happen again! Anyway, we will put it aside for 6weeks as we must finish the Subaru cage. Then, because the Cake was taking so long and Stephen wanted it with an Altezza motor & 6-speed, he went and bought an AE86 rally car that needs some modifications. So, Subaru, then AE86, THEN back into the Orange Cake at least to get something done before we start on that Evo3 again!
  9. Thanks! Appreciate the advice
  10. I know this is old as. Fingers crossed not completely dead. I have faded my audio all the way to the back and go absolutely no sound. Did you figure out what your issue was? How does one access the speaker boxes in the boot roof?
  11. A KE36 wagon (2dr+rear hatch) should fit. Has the longer doors. https://pin.it/1Emv5yh
  12. The T3 AE86 will live again! How is it we forget that passion is the real reason we do these things? I started working on my AE86 in 2000: constantly developing parts, tracking and daily driving it until it reached its peak completed form with the F20C installed in August 2004. I enjoyed the hell out of it all the way up until about 7 years ago when I drove to our new shop in Shingle Springs and we tore into it for new parts development. Over the next few years, the car slowly disintegrated into a pallet of loose parts. I had a few excuses for why the car came apart and never went back together. Business is more important! Development is more important! It’s gotta go back together better than before! But those were all just excuses. The real reason the car didn’t go back together was because I didn’t think I deserved it. See…the AE86 was “MINE”. This car was the launchpad for T3 the company. It was used for much of our early publicity, including two magazine covers, the Hotversion American Touge video, as a test bed for our Formula D car, countless drift and racing events, etc. However, I still had it in my head that the car was “mine” and that rebuilding it through/at T3 would be an act of selfishness. In my head, I couldn’t possibly pull resources from T3 to rebuild something that I considered something personal. All this time, I’ve been collecting ideas of how I wanted the car to go back together and all the new and neat things I wanted to explore, but the time just never seemed right. The guys have been bugging me to put it back together for years now, but I just couldn’t let go of the idea that doing something I was personally interested in had to take a back seat to everything else. Somehow, I forgot that the passion for the build is what MAKES this company and that feeding that passion only makes it stronger. We finally hit critical mass. The crew had had enough of my BS and basically sat me down and said, “this is what is going to happen”. Once the decision was no longer mine and I was able to see things from their perspective, I was able to get behind it one hundred percent. Their excitement and fire reminded me of what is important. All the fun we have here at the shop, all the love we pour into these projects just makes us better at what we do. Doing things, especially new things, teaches us how to better make parts. It gives us new challenges and new solutions to those puzzles. It’s on. The T3 AE86 will live again and hopefully be even more fresh than the first go around. The passion is here and the fire is raging with more fuel than it can handle. Ideas are coming, and sleep is suffering. I can’t effin wait! Don’t take as long as I did to figure it out. Whatever you do, do it for fun, do it for passion, do it for love and do it now! Or if you can’t do it now, at least start wiggling your toes in that direction! Get out there and #buildsomethingawesome! Gabriel Tyler
  13. Banjo

    Project Binky

    I'd sort of got a bit tired of watching Project Binky, as it is a bit like watching grass grow. Last time I looked was probably about episode 32 or 33. But as Google does, it advised me, that episode 37 was available. Project Binky Episode 37 I had a quick look, & good golly, the little Mini is running, . . . . . . . . but alas, not for long, as you will findout, if you have a gander. The exercise of Project Binky, appears to be a constant effort to place things in places where there is "not enough room" Episode 37, is filled in part, about a modification need for the clutch pedal, which just beggers belief. What worries me about this project is, that they keep talking about crashing it; & if & when they do, it will take another 4-5 years to strip it & repair it again. At least if my Rolla "conks out", on the side of the road; I can lift the bonnet, & with a few general tools fix most things. If Binky stops, & it is something at the back of the engine bay, it would take you a week to even get at the area you need to. I'd love to know, how much this project has cost. Pretty staggering methinks ! Cheers Banjo
  14. I have a 1977 KE30 (2dr sedan) unfortunately the from passenger window was busted and I’m looking to source another one. Found a local guy who has a parts car. He had a 4dr and I ASSUMED the window were the same but learned the hard way it’s not. He has a lift back and says it might have a window on it still. my question is, will a lift back passenger window fit on a 2dr sedan? I’d hate to assume again, and I’ve tried doing research and found one thread saying it should? But does anyone have more in depth info? thank you
  15. Hi, I am looking for a fuel tank for my ke26 van my old one has rusted out or does anyone know who has had one made. Regards Leigh
  16. Hey Banjo! No, It has the original eight speed gearbox that was used in the C-series. It's a four speed gearbox with low and high. Three forward and one reverse, and then a low and high range selector. The high/low selector is the small handle behind the wheel accessible only by raising the seat or removing the wheel. The four speed handle has been modified and comes through under the seat (a bit different than the original layout but still works the same. I almost never use the low gears on my C-120, so getting to that low lever is not a priority. they move like a snail in that low range and there's plenty of pulling power in the high range. The pulling crowd claims that these gearboxes can withstand 45-50 HP. So it seems like a proper match for the 3k as it is. I don't know if the belt would stand up to any upgrades! The other gearbox up front and behind the engine I haven't identified yet. It is a 3-way gearbox and only two of the shafts are being used to run the pully that runs the drive and mower belts. The other shaft just spins. The handle on the right engages and disengages the signature wheelhorse clutch pully. If anyone can identify this gearbox it would be much appreciated. I can see that he has modified the mounting bracket and the only number I can find is "CK03". I think that it may have been out of a hay bailer or some sort of agricultural application. Rear gearbox (original wheelhorse 8-speed) Front gearbox (unknown): Other side of front gearbox: New fuel pump, gauge and shut off valve I installed yesterday: Good pic of the really cool throttle gear setup: Cheers!
  17. Hi Randy, Certainly a work of art ! I can understand why you are trying to find out everything about it, as I'm sure when you display it at your fair, there will be lots of people like me, asking all these sorts of nitty gritty questions. My guess is that with the 3K engine, you could have easily 2-3 times the power at the back wheels,from the original mower; so it should be good at pushing snow, or towing. I gather though, that it is single speed, & that there is no gearbox involved down under the seat, that we cannot see ? I can see a little handle & a slotted gate, below & in front of your seat, though ? Keep us updated ! Cheers Banjo
  18. I believe the old guy who designed and built this changed the water pump arrangement so that it would fit under the hood of the tractor. I have no plans of changing his design, it works just fine. The tyres are Mickey Thompson racing tires. They're about a meter wide! He made the wheels too. Original tyres were same as seen here on my C-121. As I said before, This "Wheel Big Horse' started off as a C-series Wheelhorse lawn tractor. These came with 8hp, 10hp and 16hp engines made by either Kohler or Tecumseh. The hood and frame on the "Big Horse" were elongated and it was fit with the 3k engine and big wheels. But originally it looked like my 1972 C-121 shown below I'm planning on using it mostly for show. I'll take it up to the fair and we have a couple parades every year I'll probably enter it in. Also thinking about setting it up with a hitch so I can pull my boat and a couple trailers around on my property. Maybe mow the lawn... lol seems like the turning radius would be a little bit tough but I'll look cool! It's an oddity. To me it's a work of art. I just marvel at the skill and work that went into it and would like to preserve it and share it with other people. People who are familiar with wheelhorse tractors, which are no longer made and have become somewhat collectible and sought after, recognize it when they see it. Oh, we have tractor races over here! Well see how it goes... maybe enter it in the races at the fair this summer!
  19. I love this ! A 3K engine driving a ride-on lawn mower only. Don't know where I got the idea, that it was also a mobile water pump ? Maybe the size of that great big pipe over the top of the engine from front to back. After listening to the engine, on your utube first venture out of the shed; round the tree; then back to the shed; it appears to run quite well. What was the capacity of the original engine, that was in this mower, as standard ? I would suggest that the capacity was much smaller, than the 1200cc of the 3K engine. As you are using the oriiginal carby, on a much bigger motor, you may well be able to release a lot more power from this setup, if you returned the carby to something more fitting, a 1200cc motor. Maybe the guy who originally modified this simple drilled out the jet in the original caby. Just a thought. You could still retain the side draught arrangement, if necessay, by grabbing a suitable sized SU or equivalent. Regarding the crankcase breathing setup. As you already have an electric fuel pump, & there is already a plate over the flange on the engine block, for the original mechanical pump; then by all means, drill a hole in this plate & mount your existing breather filter, from the top of the engine. Leave the other hole on the rocker cover blocked, as you have done, (actuially that blocked hole is the original intake) & refit a PCV valve & feed that point to the inlet manifold. The early 3K engines, had a "push on" rubber oil filler lid. When these became old, they tened to pop out, if pressure built up in the crankcase, which resulted in oil all over the engine & bay, next time you lifted the bonnet/hood. Later JK Series ricker covers came with a hard plastic/balelite screw in cap, to overcome this issue. If it was me, I would remove the whole existing water pump arrangement & fit a 3K original, which would make it so much simpler, than what you've inherited now. It would completely change the appearance, of the " That system looks pretty frightening." as Altezzaclub decribed it above. Only other question I had was the size of those monster rear wheels & tyres. Were they the original size on the mower as standard ? If you up this performance of the 3K engine, with those large tryes, you could almost go drifting, or lawn mower racing, which is a popular recreational activity here in rural areas of Australia. https://www.abc.net.au/news/2022-05-09/lawn-mower-racing-championships-forbes-largest-ever/101047264 https://www.carsguide.com.au/oversteer/forget-supercars-lawn-mower-racing-is-australias-best-motorsport-68574 Cheers Banjo
  20. Thank you sooo much Banjo! I have an electric fuel pump, Brand new, had to replace it because it sat dry so long. Thanks to your pics, I was able to locate the manual fuel pump was. There is a plate over it already. So... I'm thinking of running a 1/2" hose from the small hole on top of the rocker cover and then drilling out the fuel pump plate and fitting it with some sort of barbed fitting to accept the 1/2" hose. Do you think this will work? These holes had been sitting open. I just think they should be covered up so dirt doesn't get in there. This is what I've done for now. This does not have an onboard water pump. That pump on the front circulates water to the radiator in the rear. I had to replace the pump. It was completely seized. When I removed it and looked up the number I found out that it was an agricultural sprayer pump. I bought it up the road at Tractor Supply. I had to paint it red to match. Not sure where the pully was from but he did a good job mating it to that pump and it was easy to replace. Here it is: https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/delavan-4-roller-pro-pump-cast-iron-4900c?cm_vc=-10005 I picked this up at a local auction. It was a last minute bid. I had been watching it but thought it would go for a lot more than I was willing to pay... Figured since I was a big fan of Toyota's and Wheelhorse tractors I could give it a good home. I would have hated to see someone tear it apart and scrap it or sell it off as parts. Like you said, whoever built it put a lot of time and love into it. I didn't even notice that the intake had been rotated 90 degrees until you pointed it out! Had to look at yours to figure out what was going on. Very cool! This guy was creative. BTW the carb is the original Wheelhorse carb. Same one I have on my C120 shown above. he made an adaptor plate to make it fit. I just took the carb apart and rebuilt it last night. It was clean inside but starting to leak around the bowl... from sitting dry for 15+ years. I have two tractors (now three) with that carb on them and they're the only carbs I've never had to rebuild. This was the first one.
  21. Quite a hot-rod! Any idea why he changed the water pump/alty arrangement at the front? That system looks pretty frightening. He put a lot of work into it, worse than swapping motors in a car!
  22. Hi Randy, All I can say,; is that this guy had plenty of time on his hands ! There is a lot of work gone into that. It might be a contraption, but it has all been done well. Even the way the 3K inlet manifold has been installed 90 deg to original, & turned around, to adapt to a side draft carby of some descript. There is no hole in the timing chain cover as standard. However, when you remove the timing chain cover, there is a casting circle usually on the inside centre, & being aluminium, it is easy to drill & open out a hole, where I fitted mine. The best sort of crankcase scavenging is to exhaust the air from the top of the engine, using the inlet manifold suction, & allow fresh air to enter at the fartherest point in the lower front, you can get to. Another place that is good, is the fuel pump flange on the block. Lots of us use an electric fuel pump, as those mechanical pumps don't work well, when the tank is at the rear, & lower than the pump; & there is a tiny leak in the inlet line to the pump. You can get, or make a blanking plate for the fuel pump flange on the block; & that would be a very easy point to attach a fresh air intake filter for the crankcase ventilation. The COPS just allow you to do away with the distributor altogether, & use a sold state ECU to control the ignition with advance & retard, of timing based on revs & load on the engine. You can use the COPS in a waste spark, or full sequential firing system. The little blue sensor in the pic above of the inner timing chain cover, provides a "synch" pulse to the electronic ecu, so it can fire at the right time. Here's all that's left, of where the dissy used to fit. Ha Ha ! Your pics in the fist post didn't show that radiator tucked down there between those large rear wheels. Did you buy this because you have some other use for it, other than mowing the lawn? Like using the onboard water pump ? Sounds like a lot of fun. I would imagine, the 3K engine would have a bit of grunt, with a resonable power to weight ration. There was a larger 1.5Litre 5K version of the K Series engine, which had more torque, & was primarily used in Toyota utes & vans; & forklifts. Thats a 5K sitting on my mower frame. Have fun, & post on here, when you fully work out, how it all works. Cheers Banjo
  23. Thank you for the warm welcome! I've spent some time lurking here (trying to figure out what I have) and this site has been a great resource. Banjo, Thank you for the pics. I must admit that while I've heard of COP (coil on plug?) I have no idea what that contraption does... but it sure looks cool! Great idea using an old tractor frame. You obviously have a bigger toolbox than I do! A company didn't build this. From what I understand, some local guy around here built it. It's actually built on the frame of the same tractor I use for mowing my lawn a Wheelhorse C-121. Also, uses the same gearbox in the back to drive the wheels (two gearboxes) I haven't figured out where the one in the front (the one you can see) is from. I'm pretty sure that it is used in agricultural equipment. Maybe a hay bailer, rototiller, or brush mower... still trying to figure it out. The only markings I can find on it are "CK03". I do not have a hole on my timing chain cover. I'm considering plugging the small hole and attaching one of those breather filters to the larger hole. Good idea or bad idea? I drained and refilled the crankcase with Shell Rotella 15W-40. I use this stuff in all my lawn equipment and the 351 Ford in my boat so I always have plenty around. It's water cooled. radiator in the back with an electric fan. Yes that's me in the video! This is my other tractor, 1972 Wheelhorse C-121. It was built off of this frame. This has the original 12hp Kohler engine. Thanks again for the help!
  24. Well I think I just saw & hear it running ! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T6J6s3Hcm98 Looks like the same garage Randy ! Sure doesn't sound like a 3K, but sure looks like the real thing. Here is a few more tractors, but not with 3K engines. These tractors were running before Toyota was even a company. No drifting in these ones. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QLcI5X2O-xI Cheers Banjo
  25. Dave, yes indeed. Over lunch, I maximised the pics, & zoomed in to the pics, to see how it all works. Unbelievable ! The damn thing even has rack & pinion steering, from what I can see. The unsupported extension on the very front of the crankshaft is a monster. Can't see a fan, to drawn air over the engine. Appears the engines internal coolant, is infact the same water, being pumped ? Would love Randy, to give us a bit of a description, of how it all works ! Cheers Banjo
  1. Load more activity
×
×
  • Create New...