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Ke15 Engine Questions

Featured Replies

Hey Group,

 

I just bought a 69 KE15 sprinter to play with. It is in pretty good shape and I'm trying to build it to run autox. The k motor is in fair shape needing minor tune-up and carb rebuild. I found a 3k that had been rebuilt recently with a new clutch and good looking carb with all components attached. The plan is to drop the 3k in and try to get as much out of it for as little $$ as possible. Is there any benefit to using the k head on the 3k block or will everything stay the same compression wise. I plan on trying to get the head ported as well with either of the two. Maybe try it myself on the k head and see if I can manage to make it work. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

Thanks,

g

  • Author

It's just the straight k-c motor that came stock in the spinter.

  • Author

I don't know how I missed the last link/page. I thought that I had found every site on the net that had to do with the ke1X series. These are some that I thought were very helpful

 

http://www.materials.unsw.edu.au/~sford/engine.html

http://t-rex.materials.unsw.edu.au/~sford/

http://www.geocities.com/jonnyr_1973/

http://au.geocities.com/ke1x/

http://www.superjamie.net/oldcorollas/

 

Thanks for the heads up. I am sure that you will see more on this. I may just try the other head for fun to see what it does.

 

Thanks again,

 

g

  • Author

:)

I just saw the link at the top of superjamies page, didn't think to lllok there before

 

g

cc the k-c head, and work out the compression before you put it on, you don't want to end up with 13:1 compression or something like that. a better idea is a 4k engine with 3k head

 

i'll try work it out for you when i get home tonight

  • Author

thanks Jamie, that would be great!!

 

G

k engines had smaller valves in original form.

 

i'd work the 3k. a better idea would be to start with a 4k or 5k if you can find one. a tough 5k is quite quick in a little ke15 :)

 

i've worked through a progression of engines in varying states of tune in my ke15. from the weazy stock k to a warm k, a mild 3k, a warm 4k, and now a grunter 5k.

 

the k engine was always flat out keeping up with traffic, zero torque. the 3k quite fun in a revvy way, but no torque. the 4k actually way more exciting than i expected able to embarass a hell of a lot of cars it really shouldn't have, for the $$ invested. and now the 5k, which just does everything with ease, like driving up the mountain where i lived, loaded up with family and gear, able to pull 4th gear the whole way...torque is good.

 

make sure to update your brakes, mine had drums on it standard. with ke30 discs it stops as quick from 140km/h, as what the drums did from 80km/h.

k head on 3k gives about 9.7:1. if it's got smaller valves, then ditch it. you'd also need to spend alot of money having hardened valve seats put into it, so you can run premium unleaded

If it is a true K-B motor then it already has 10 to 1 CR. The K-B head on a 3K motor should give 10.7.

 

So how do you tell if it is a true K-B - check the inlet manifold face on the head to verify if there is a water hole to the inlet manifold, should be below no 4 inlet port.

Look after the gasket as I imagine they might be hard to get these days.

 

The other differences that you might explore - the lighter K-B flywheel and the K-B camshaft with the extra 10 degrees duration, an 18/58 vs 16/50.

we knew about the cams, but interesting about the flywheel. what are the weights of each? i had a stock 4k-c flywheel lightened for my car, it ended up weighing 7kg

hehe..just want to ask...if i have, let say tighe 104 cam on my 3k, would it have same or better respone if i fit it into 4k or 5k.? their all fit right? Plug and play method right? :)

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