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I do it for the same reason. Quite often, when I ask Google A.I. to research something, about olde Corollas; it will find the answer I need, & list on the RHS; all the websites it has visited & searched, to obtain the answer. www.rollaclub.com, is often amongst the listed sites. In fact, I just asked Google A.I. which are the best websites, & rollaclub.com, was listed first, & right at the top. Cheers Banjo

Quite often the flange for after market headers is thinner than the original exhaust manifold AND INTAKE MANIFOLD, so it doesn't get clamped down properly in the middle where the bolts have to bridge across both. Have have to shave the ears of the intake manifold down to the thickness of the exhaust so they both get clamped evenly

" these are poorly welded and or warped"... Likely... When we weld a manifold it gets bolted to a head beforehand to minimise the warping. What does a straight-edge along the whole extractor face show? The middle two bent to one side or not parallel vertically?? The best answer would be to get them ground flat right along the mating face, which would be good if it was $100 or less. It would be cheaper to heat the middle pair up with an oxy/acetylene set and twist them to the right place once red-hot. Simple to heat up, but hard to get lined up just right. You could try lightly bolting just the headers on and heating them up, then pulling them flat with the bolts when soft. Unless the bolts/nuts pull it straight and flat, then the gasket will blow out all the time. Was it up to torque when you put the feeler gauge down it?

That is a strange one. Have you upgraded your headlights or the bulbs recently ! There is no headlight relay in the early Corollas. The headlight current passes through the contacts in the headlight switch on the column. I can only suggest that when the headlights are switched on, the +12V to the dash assembly drops off somewhat. The fuel guage is fed by a regulated voltage less than 12V, so that the guage always reads correctly. Are the headlights a bit dull also. I would measure the +12V at the steering column, with the headlights on & off, & see what the difference is. The regulator for the fuel guage can use a 7, 8, or even 10 volt regulator If the head lights are dropping the +12V supply to the dash, to less than 10 volts, that may be what is causing it.. My suggestion; is to have the headlight switch control an automotive relay only. Use the relay's contact to switch the +12V directly from the battery, via a 15A automotive fuse; to the headlights. P.S. Have a read of recent thread, which may help you shed some light on the issue. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/85671-ke55-cluster-not-working-properly/#comment-738595 Cheers Banjo

It appears to me; from your photos, that it may be, that the ignition switch itself is OK, but the plug in connector & socket that connects the ignition switch to the car's wiring harness, is corroded & unserviceable. I may well be, that if you cut off the plug & socket, & substituted another generic plug & socket; or simply connected/soldered the wires together, without the plugs & sockets; then maybe the car will work perfectly. As You have the ignition switch out; You could test that the contacts inside the ignition switch connect OK, with a simple multimeter, or a battery & test light. Even if that is a temporary measure, to get you going again; it would then allow You time to search UK, French & German ebay sites, & see if anything comes up when looking for Neiman ignition barrels. Even if You can't connect it up, without the plugs & sockets; then any good auto electrician, should be able to do that for you, & get You mobile. Cheers Banjo

Do you think that was a factory part when the car was new? ..or has someone fitted a European ignition system to it afterwards? If you're lucky its a common Neiman part shared with other cars in the 80s, so you could get a second-hand one in good condition, or a new one from another one-make car club. There are Ferrari ones for sale... Do you know what America used? The column should be the same as yours. Which part do you desperately need, and can you substitute wiring and contacts from generic electrical parts? How's your French? https://mtparts.fr/product-categorie/japanse-tractor-parts/suzue/electrical-parts-suzue/

The plates are 80mm long x 23mmwide, neatly pressed from a flat maybe 30mm wide to roll the edges for strength. Open slot one end, closed slot on the pin end. Not an easy shape to make.

The usual torsion bar spring used in the 70s.. and the other side... They can be quite grunty springs when you try and fit them!

Hi Alasdair ! Thanks so much for that wonderful set of photos. Only one sentence describes this . . . . "A work of Art & Dedication". Well done ! What colour have you decided upon, for outside. Matching the engine bay ? I take my hat off to You. Accomplishing body work, is not a great joyous part of working on any car; for me; so I really applaud your dedication. Now the fun part comes for me. The putting it all back together, & hearing that first roar to life, as You turn the key for the first time. Keep the photos coming. You provide inspiration to others. Cheers Banjo

"Witnesses told Hawke’s Bay Today they saw the men inside the jewellers smashing cabinets and taking items." When I was young that jeweller would have whipped a shotgun or a revolver from under the counter and sorted those clowns out!

T-series yes,stock Borgie...meh! Of course any diff you buy is 40years old and probably needs rebuilding anyway. I had my T-series done earlier this year, but I can still hear a slight whine from it, everything else is worn as well as the bearings. Make sure you have the bearings in your hands before pulling the diff out if you need the car.

Hey guys Just wondering if there’s a difference between ke20 lower control arms and te27 lower control arms? wanting to run the te27 gtx2 T3 lca and caster arm kit on my ke20 cheers