KE25 Nut

Hi everyone. Does anyone know where I can buy New seatbelts for a ke25? I want original looking ones as the plastic buckles look out of place in my opinion. Preferably I'd like to have retractables for the front. Any help or assistance would be greatly appreciated. Cheers Andrew

Yeah cylinder 1 and 4 shouldn't be effected by the mismatched leads. Are you running a standard cam? If not the overlap of intake and exhaust timing could be to blame. As the exhaust valve may not be closed when your intake valve opens and if you have high exhaust pressure this can flow back through the intake. Also ensure you have good spark and ignition coil / ignitor to burn all the fuel that is put in.

I had the same issue of backfiring through the cabs. In my experience 99% of the time it is caused by the timing being too retarded or they are running too lean. I'm getting my twin weber 7k powered rolla tuned very soon will let you know what the tuners thoughts are on the issue. Cheers

If you need to buy a new starter motor try getting a 7k one off a townace van about 1997 - 1999 from memory. they are high torque and are more compact in size than 3k, 4k and 5k ones and come with a heat shild to help protect it from high Exhaust temperatures. can pick them up from a wreckers for about $100. Turns over my 10.8-1 compression 7k with ease.

If you need to buy a new starter motor try getting a 7k one off a townace van about 1997 - 1999 from memory. they are high torque and are more compact in size than 3k, 4k and 5k ones and come with a heat shild to help protect it from high Exhaust temperatures. can pick them up from a wreckers for about $100. Turns over my 10.8-1 compression 7k with ease.

Car sitting extremly high now with all lowering components taken out.

Finally updating this build progress has been slow but finally getting to the final stages of completion. There are alot more goodies to come but keeping it as close to standard as posible to get it passed blue slip. Currunt dilemma is my exhaust is fouling on the passenger foot well on hard revving. So will pull out the extractors and modify them this week.

Cheers philbey That was exactly the response I was after. I've only got a 4k one lying around so I'll use that and just keep an eye out for a 5k reduction starter. Thanks everyone for your input. Much appreciated.

So ideally should I be using a 5k starter or a 7k starter? I'm after whatever would be most reliable as this car is my daily. And are there any difference in the diameter or the number of teeth on the pinion gear? Cheers

Thanks for the input. I'm glad to hear I've done okay by keeping the hydronic lifters. I guess I'll just head to a cam grinder and just let him know what I got a what I want. Another question I I'm curious about is what starter motor should I run. I've read a few people running re-geared 5k starters what are the advantages using this over a 4k or 7k starter. Planning of just using a 4k flywheel and clutch setup.

G'day I'm currently in the middle of doing a 7k engine conversion into my ke25. I know it's a big improvement on power compared to the standard 3k but I'm looking to get abit more power in the mid rpm range. What cam profiles should I be looking for? Lift, duration, advance etc. Or does anyone know at least what they are standard to give me a base to work from? The engine is set up with twin 40mm webers, extractors with a 2" exhaust slightly ported head & manifolds and heavy duty valve springs. I'm also keeping the hydrolic lifters as i have heard mixed stories with converting to solids, will this be an issue with a mild cam? Any help is greatly appreciated as I'm getting sick of google searches!!! Cheers

Hi everyone I'm currently doing a 7K conversion in my KE25. I've been rebuilding the engine and have mucked up the order of the lifters. I'm just wanting to know if there is a specific sequence or weather there are any differences between intake and exhaust lifters? Or am i just being too much of a perfectionist and should just put them in? Each lifter has a different number on the internals of it. These are: KK KY LE FU EX JG L7 LK Any help is much appreciated. cheers Andrew

Even though this project has been on hold for almost the last 12 months. Here are a few more photos of the progress i have had. drivers door prepped and in high fill primer. divers door reunited with the rest of the car. Passenger door now attached and high filled and rubbed back ready for colour. Bonnet in primer and both doors now in undercoat red. I have been painting every pannel with a few coats of red as I go because since I am building this car in my very limited spare time under a temporary carport that I erected to hopefully protect the car from the elements. Due to it sitting in my backyard it does still get the occasional chip and scratch here and there so it gives the car that little bit extra protection without getting me upset if it was the final coat. I Also got bored a few weeks back and put some racing stripes down the side in elecrical tape just to see what it would look like. I think I'm gonna get some big stickers for the stripes made up through a mate of mine as I think I will eventually get bored of them if I paint them on, That way I have the option of removing them. This is one of the latest pics with most of the car in base coat red. only have the front valance and drivers guard to finish knocking the dents out of before I can finally sand back the whole car and paint it one last time. I will post up some more pictures over the coming weeks as I get closer to finishing the bodywork.

where the battery tray used to sit, all metal shaped and welded. After a quick lick of primer and undercoat, view from underneath. after it was all done if i didnt post this you would be hard pressed to know that it was ever cut out and replaced.

After all rust was cut out and replaced caused by battery acid corossion. this was the end result of the drivers side chassis rail and under the battery tray.

Haven't made a post in a while. My 25 is slowly coming together and will hopefully have all the final paint on it and start putting it back together this holidays as I'm off work till January 14th. Alot of work has been caried out over the past 12 months but haven't had the time to finish everything off due to work.

Ahhhh okay well that's good that they can be replaced. I thing i'm running a similar bearing in mine. It's basically almost like a spacer that goes over the shock and sits inbetween the top spring perch and the strut top yeah? I'm realy interested in this strut bending as in my KE-25 I have a similar problem with gaining camber as my struts also hit the strut tower after minimal adjustment so I am limited drastically with wheel sizes and offsets. Though I've now got ae86 struts with a sleeve coilover kit on them so I'm hoping that will give me some more adjustment otherwise I'll probably go down the same path you and jordain are with the bending.

Absolutely love this build can't wait to see it all done. I haven't personally used k-mac strut tops but I have heard mixed stories from a few mates and people at track days. But long story short the bushes inside the "piro ball" where the shock mounts to the strut top seem to not last very long and once they ʞ©$ɟ out the suspension becomes very harsh and un-responsive. But besides that they are great. I'm not sure weather these bushes can be bought separately or weather you need to replace the whole strut top. So you may want to do some research on that before you commit to buying them. I personally swear by "cusco" and have never had any problems but they are very $$$$$ also. AJPS in Melbourne are a main supplier of cusco parts and will ship anywhere. Hope this is of some help.

Yeah tally is right mine was original and un changed so it had the 4x110 stud pattern which were also used on the early Mazda's eg rx2 rx3 r100 rx7 and so on though only series 1 and 2 rx7 had this same stud pattern. I spent a few months trying to track down those Simmons and had to take a road trip to Newcastle to pick them up. But it was the (period) look I was after and I think they do it justice. Though I have now got ae86 coilovers to go up front so I am looking for a pair of 15" v4 Simmons centers in 4x114.3 so I can keep that look if anyone can help??? Will upload some more pics and info this weekend!!!

Sorry the photos are going to be abit all over the place as I'm trying to find them all. Anyway just after i bought this car i ended up loosing my licence so i didn't even get to go through a whole tank of petrol in my new corolla. Once i had no licence i decided this was the perfect time to clean up my ke25 in time for me getting my licence back. I spent many late nights stripping the paint off the car mostly to find beautiful clean metal underneath but it did have some cancer. This car is my second love my first was a 1973 bmw 2002tii that was originally owned by my father and it has taken its place in the garage and as autumn 2010 set in i had to get my corolla out of the elements before all my hard work had to be done again. My high school mate Prydey spoke to his mum and kindly let me use their carport for my build not knowing that it was going to take this long. Since i was stripping the car at my house once i was given the OK to use their carport it was a husslt to put the whole car back together and drive it there. I got quite a few looks driving it like this Just as the car arrived under Prydeys car port

G-day everyone this is the first time I'm realy posting anything about my car it has come a long way since i bought it almost 16 months ago. it started as just a quick close door respray but after finding more rust than originally anticipated it is now just about a full on bare metal respray and hotting the thing up at the same time. I did have a 2tg which i intended to drop in it but due to being low on funds i ended up selling it. i have now decided i want to go a twin carb 4age and would appreciate any input you could possibly give me about the easiest way to go about it. anyway heres some pics of the build so far. This is how it looksed as i bought it nothing special but i saw its potential This rust in the chassis rail has held this build up. Spent just over 6 months to repairing it making sure every weld was perfect and keeping the original contours of the metals so that you couldn't tell it had ever been repaired. Rubbing back the guidecoat on the highfill primer, starting to look good Painted the shell in basecoat just after new years after spending countless hours smoothing the pannnels to get a clean smooth finish