filfrederick

I would be surprised if you were able to keep it non-interference with a 13:1 comp ratio, from memory i had issues with valve-valve interference with those cams if you turned them over individually as well. something to keep in mind when dialing up the cams.

As for bearings my usual preference is ACL Race, then King and then normal ACL. i used king big end bearings in my 4A rods without a problem at high revs. What is the bearing that you have? normally you need a set for the mains and a set for the big ends. thats it. make sure you have measured your crank to make sure you get either standard or undersize, depending if the crank has been ground or just polished. -Phil

just make sure that it is at least 10mm thick everywhere and make sure all the corners are nice smooth radius's so there is no sharp corners to encourage cracking. you will also need to get it re-balanced after machining. i went as light as i could and also took a few kg out of the crank and it was still OK to drive around every day. a little tricky on hill starts but you get used to it.

I just went off the general torque setting for the given dia of fastener, you should be able to find a chart on the inter-googles somewhere.

and make sure they are a proper merge style collector, not the shitty exhaust shop press-bent style. are you wanting stainless? they need a whole different design to stop them from cracking down the line, slip joins and such.

I would also push for a megaphone with a reverse cone after the collector, it helps with the reverb pulses for scavenging. here is what i am talking about.

was it running ok beforehand? did you change/play with anything before it died?

they are not hard to come by, anywhere that sells other engine bearings should be able to get them, i use precision international in Brisbane.

from memory it is 1/8 NPT but just double check to be sure.

Thanks for the pic. still seems strange to crack there, perhaps from the shocks of rallying?? perhaps a balancing problem? but you would think it crack around the mains not in the water jacket. i dunno. any thoughts altezzaclub?

where was the crack? any pics? cracked blocks are fairly rare as far as i know.

what sort of fab work are you talking about?? seems a bit vague.

there is a spherical bearing or a rubber bush in the top of the strut that allows for this sort of movement. so nothing to worry about.

just wondering if anyone knows if Toyota ever made a forged steel crank instead of the usual cast iron ones for the 75mm stroke k engines? or a fully counterbalanced version? thanks Phil

I agree, just swap in a whole new motor, cheap, then you have a heap of spares! You could probably get away with just running a tap down there to clean it out and use some locktite but not worth the risk in my opinion.

one thread is possible to repair safely but i would probably use a keensert type repair if you have the room. but i would take the crank to an engineering workshop to do it properly. it makes it so hard when someone has tried to fix something like that at home without the proper tools and skills. would probably cost $100 or so to do. if you have another crank lying around just go with that and you don't have to worry. -phil

you can drop round today it you want, ill just be down in the shed.

i had a electric pump in the rear of that thing, mounted to one of the fuel tank straps, there should be all the wiring for it still there. all you need is a foot of hose to go from the tank to the pump. did i give you that black facet pump? it may be still hanging around my place somewhere. -phil

why bother asking a question if you "apparently" know all the answers and don't listen to others?

much more trouble than its worth, as soon as you start welding on a panel that big flat and flimsy it is going to warp like crazy. just find another shell and swap everything over. save yourself a whole lot of time and money.

with the car at the same ride height taller springs will not make any difference at all, there will still be the same amount of droop in the shock travel and if the taller spring is the same rate it will have the same difference in loaded and unloaded height. the only change will be where the perch is located. the only solution is shorter shocks or helper springs.

after building a few sets, i will now only do base adjustable, they are soo much easier to adjust and you never have any issues with captive springs plus you can adjust the pre-load for corner weighting. fortune auto in the usa do a very easy kit. just cut off the old strut a few inches from the base and weld on the new lower sleeve. all done! there is a place in NZ called MRP who i get them through, i think he still advertises on toymods. -phil

and 8mm lift

i ran 11.1-1 with 294deg cams and 105deg timing it ran fine with no detonation at all on 98 it was quite hard to start tho, had to use a landcruiser v8 reduction starter motor.

moses, are you sure that your ignition timing is right?? sounds like it is set to tdc on the exhaust stroke not the compression stroke, put your finger over the sparkplug hole and make sure you feel heaps of pressure when the piston is coming up to tdc when turning it over by hand. -phil