filfrederick
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Everything posted by filfrederick
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just get the head faced and slap a new gasket on it, it will keep going forever!, as for the dizzy there are only a handfull of components that make it work and all of them are cheap and easy to get.
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to do the job properly all the rotating parts need to be done individually, so the crank first, then bolt on the flywheel and balance that, then the pressure plate, then the pulley. the pistons are easy enough to do at home, the rods should be balanced on the small end, big end and overall, it takes a bit of time to get it right but i believe it is all worth it for an engine that will be smoother and easier on all the bearings, therefore live longer. not to mention reduced stress at high revs. in a side note it is very hard to get a crank to be completely balanced throughout the rev range because of the different velocity's of the various counterweights, ie. depending on the distance from the center of rotation to the center of mass of the counterweight as to how effective that weight actually is. i balance cranks at 3000-4000rpm, seems to work ok. -Phil
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NA fj20. done.
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i used a fortune auto set I'm my e30 recently, you just cut off the original strut tube a few inches from the bottom and a steel sleeve slips over the old tube and weld it on at the base. very happy with the quality and only $750 landed complete with camber tops. they make them in heaps of sizes so probably have something to fit a ke30 there is a trader on toymods that i got them through Manon Racing Products in New Zealand, he is the Australian dealer.
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Replacing Small End Bushes, Tips?
filfrederick replied to megamannz123's topic in KExx Corolla Discussion
generally you need to press them out and shrink fit the new ones in. not sure about your particular rods but usually the new bushes need machining to get the correct clearance on the gudgeon pin. -phil -
damp valve??
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K Series High Volume Oil Pump
filfrederick replied to springersrolla's topic in KExx Corolla Discussion
why do you think you need a higher volume pump? generally a std pump shimmed for a higher relief pressure is fine, possibly a turbo could need more oil but that is about all i can think of. just my opinion. -Phil -
it is called "four stroke performance tuning" by A. Graham Bell (not the telephone guy) it is a great book, so much info, read it cover to cover and learn a LOT!
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I don't have any good pics of my old setup but here is some scans on some info that might be helpful.
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scrapers do help with keeping oil aeration down, but to be honest it is usually more effort than it is worth for anything other than a full on competition engine, a modified sump is a better way in my opinion. it is easy to extend it sideways to gain a lot more capacity, or if you have the room, downwards, and extend the pickup so you can have the oil further away from the crank. depending on what the car is used for is also a big factor on how much baffling needs to be in there, for a street car or occasional track car you can get away with a few simple horizontal baffles around the main deep section of the sump or a mesh like altezzaclub suggested. if you are running slicks and getting a lot of g-forces you may want to think about a swinging pickup or some more elaborate trapdoor style baffling. i just ran a knife edged the crank and had very simple baffling and a winged sump in my engine and never had any issues, even with high revs. hope that helps -Phil
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In my opinion a weaker head-gasket is a good thing, a gasket is a lot easier and cheaper to replace than a piston or block. the main reason for head-gasket failure is pre-detonation which makes cylinder pressures skyrocket, a shitty rubber o-ring could handle the pressure from a non firing cylinder(under 200psi) the firing pressure would be around 800-1000psi and if pre-detonation occurs it goes above 1500psi. i raced that engine with a good tune many times running at full-load and full-rpm without any gasket issues, so i would get the tuning right and i would expect your problems to disappear. without having a wideband o2 sensor and data-logger it is almost impossible to know if your tune is anywhere near right. -Phil
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HAHA best quote ever, you sir, just made my day.
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the xt130 struts have more -ve camber built in, compared to the rt142, probably about 2deg or so, and i believe the steering arm has a different bolt pattern so you will need to use the xt ones (or ae86 i believe), apart from that it should be fine. on a side note if all you want is bigger brakes mx73 vented brakes bolt on to the rt142 struts, and work very well with good pads.
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if designed properly a single filter on an airbox will not be a restriction, in a single throttle/cyl application there is only air flow on the inlet cycle so that is 1/4 of the time. in a typical 4 cylinder engine each cylinder has this intake flow at a different time so In theory a single 40mm throttle flowing constantly will be the same as a individual 40mm throttle with flow only on every 4th stroke. a bit off topic but just what i was thinking. -phil
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i see little point going to so much effort and expense and continuing to use pushrods and a non crossflow head, fair enough if you build a 16v head to go with it, but then you may as well start from scratch and design a completely new engine. (which i find most attractive!)
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idle mixture is the one underneath on the engine side of the float bowl cover, just make sure they are all adjusted the same. you should be right to drive it round to get it tuned just stay out of the high revs and keep an ear out for knocking.
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don't pay too much attention to the numbers on the jets as some have been drilled, best to measure them to get sizes.
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the needle circlip position only changes the midrange mixture, the main jet still controls the mixture when the needle is completely out of the seat. you could put larger mains in it, i think i gave you a few sets and one should be drilled out to 210 from memory and i think it has 180s in there at the moment, with the larger mains you could bring the circlip up to the second lowest groove with only one steel washer under it, i think it is now on the lowest(richest) and an extra washer to five it a bit more. I would be very careful mucking around with mixtures without a lambda sensor or a lot of experience reading plugs. I still have those 39mm Keihin FCR flatslides hanging around too.... -phil
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I Had 294s in my twincam but only 8.2mm lift, they were ok for the street if i kept the cam timing fairly mild, but going for all-out power they got old fairly quick, having to beat the hell out of it just to do a hillstart gets some funny looks. like timbo said around 270 would be my vote.
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the main problem i found is the crank, it is cast iron and only semi-counterbalanced so as the revs increase each individual throw becomes more out of balance and that creates crank-whip and will crack in the big end radius. to try and reduce this i machined a lot of weight out of the counterbalances and polished and shot-peened it, never had a problem, but it was not sitting at 9500+ all day. luckily i didnt have to worry about all the pushrod stuff, that is a lot of stuff flapping about up there. mine stock after machining and before shot peening
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4Ag(Z)E Adjustable Cam Gears
filfrederick replied to Twincam16seca's topic in AExx Corolla Discussion
I have used the megan racing gears that were quite cheap, the outer is aluminum so would not last as long as the steel ones, and i replaced all the screws as the heads were a soft abd easily rounded. overall not too bad. -
car and engine SOLD!
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I was getting around 15-16L/100km in my twin-cam 4k on the full power tune. 210 mains in the 40mm bike carbs, now i get about 13L with less cam timing and 180 mains
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Thinking of selling this car/engine to make way for another project. If anyone has any serious offers send me a pm. Phil
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heading out to QR tomorrow, come and say g'day if you're there
