luke_ke

yeah i did use that armorall stuff, on my very first rolla, cracked the dash before I sold it to the wreckers for 700 bucks, with a shitty cracked dash ......... in 2002 I believe ...... I should of kept it........

Just wondering what you guys use on your old interior or exterior plastic/vinyl surfaces to keep them in good condition, especially keeping things like the dash supple etc etc I was told by an old bloke with an open top Singer roadster at a car club meet to only use water to wipe down interior surfaces/and shine with castor oil because most products are petroleum based and look good on application but = quicker deterioration. Ive never really bothered with interiors too much until now, I used some pyroil (was told it would be good cause its made from orange oil??), but five min's with the car in the sun it looked like I had'nt used anything at all - just smelt like oranges What do you people use or recommend ?

gday - have the specs on a cam that was to be a stock replacement for a friends celica 2t but as far as i am aware 2t/2tc/3tc all share the same cam specs.... ??? Gross valve lift intake/exhaust .355"/.355" Lobe lift: .254 intake/exhaust Duration: 256/256 Valve Lash: .014 intake and .016 exhaust Lobe Center: 110 not sure about timing specs hope I could help somewhat .... :hmm:

gday try "rare spares" (they have online shopping - just google them) if you are after new rubber seals and the like - they do full car kits or you can buy the parts you need individually, they are a bit pricy but then again we are driving around in what are now basically vintage cars .... ive used them and i have also got "cheap" seals from thailand etc but the quality of these where TERRIBLE!!!!! hope that helps in the quest :)

yeah in the sun would evaporate the chlorine quicker - I just usually leave it overnight or even a couple of days when I know I have a job to do when you flush the the radiator or block do it with the garden hose - then just mix up a bit of coolant afterwards and pour it through the system until it comes out the other end, then put your hoses back on and fill it up .... that way all the tap water is rinsed out and your good to go

coolant doesnt stop chlorine reacting with aluminium but coolant will provide a layer of protection usually in the form of a corrosion inhibitor, generally a silicate (silica based) material. Premixed coolants are just coolant ( and demineralised/de ionised water - so either buy demineralised water or leave your tap water out over night - the chlorine will evaporate quite quickly - either that or boil it - i just leave my water out over night if i need do any cooling system work - that way the protective layer the coolant provides wont be eaten away by the eventual formation of acid caused be using straight tap water with chlorine ..... but then again we are talking about pretty long term slowly developing issues i guess ....

aluminium also reacts with water to form aluminium oxide - this layer can easily and quickly build up to more than a couple of mm thick = decrease in efficiency - thats why we use coolants with wetting agents - it helps in sticking the water/coolant onto the surface of the aluminium before it oxidises - so yeah if you use the right coolant and de-mineralised water it could be equal to or better in performance, but make sure you don't use tap water containing chlorine, even small amounts of the chlorine will react with the aluminium to form aluminium chloride, and when aluminium chloride is exposed to oxygen it forms hydrochloric acid and that can't be good ........ just interesting i guess ... or not

silver is the best thermal conductor of all and its much heavier than aluminium - next best is copper and then brass, then aluminium. the reason that aluminium is used now days is first of all it is cheaper and secondly the lead based solders used to join up our old radiators where found to be a health hazard in the manufacturing process. Lead is a very poor heat conductor as well, so basically performance of copper/brass or aluminium radiators (based just on the material used) is very similar ........ :yes:

have u checked your fuses ?

i had the similar - needle was stuck at 40k .... took it all out pushed the needle down to zero, sprayed a bit of white lithium grease in there and its been working fine since ......

you will need a 19mm socket/spanner - not sure on the thread size .....

gday - I'm pretty sure that the green plastic film has the circuit integrated in it, so it shouldn't matter if it appears to be separating from the back of the cluster - when my fuel gauge stopped working it was because the circuit which appears to be very thin brass had a tiny crack (probably cause the plastic was brittle and warped), so i soldered it back together and haven't had any more problems with it .......

Name: Luke Car: 1981 ke55s Motor and Driveline: Stock 4k with 5spd box and standard Borg-Warner diff Suspension & Brakes: 2" lower all round with reset springs rear, king springs front. Pedders Sports Ryder shocks, whiteline sway bar up front. Nolathane bushes all round. Wheels & Tyres: Cheviot Hotwire 5.5x13, various tyres fitted Interior: SAAS drivers seat, '86 Barina passenger seat, cheap sports s/wheel, eight ball gear knob Body: All original, bit of rust in the rear quarters/wheel well area, few dints here and there