4k-t

I have decided to use a Weber 32/36. I just wanted to know what jet sizing would be best. If any one has done this before and could share there jetting that would be awesome

I have replace point with electronic

Yeah, cheers mate I have read that. I was reminded of timing so I checked that. It made power and boost all the way to valve bounce (oops!). The only problem I had then was the car would not idle below 2000rpm. I decided to take the secondary jet out of the primary port and replace it with the primary jet. Stuffed the gasket pulling the top off. Now to wait till tomorrow to get a carby kit.

Been out playing with the car today. I have gotten it to a point where I can drive it. How ever it coughs and misses every with any thing more then light throttle. It also does not want to do more then 3000rpm. Any ideas on cause? Timing maybe? It is cooling down atm as I found the oil return on the turbo is leaking.

thanks for the info on the fuel pump cut off. will have to do that. Bring on the new year and some spare time!

thanks guys and all that helped me get this far. Yes it's little things kill the mood! Money puts a stop to it.

Worked it out. it was the power wire, it had fallen off. now for and exhaust

I have put power to the solenoid and then hit the key. It fires and dies as soon as I stop cranking. I have change to an electronic Dizzy and removed the condenser. I am also using a electronic Ign coil. I'm thinking I have messed up the wiring some how. does any one have a wiring diagram?

It cranks and fires then dies. it seems to not be sucking fuel but the carbie is clean. what are the electronic plugs for? are they needed? only fires if you pump the acc before or during cranking.

not yet... silly me left the bolt in the side of the inlet manifold out. I got a new bolt yesterday which i need to shorten. fingers crossed, today might be the day. Thanks for the support.

I Know it has been a long time but life gets in the way some times. However for the first time today the car had oil pressure. I cranked it over to get oil to every where it is needed ie. the turbo. This was done with the spark disconnected. Now to see if I have spark....

Go for it mate, no need to ask for permission lol i don't own the idea.

Trust me, I hit it!

Update. Getting so close to starting. Sadly when I hit the key today the result was nothing... checked the wiring and find nothing wrong. Checked with a multi meter and ever thing is working as it should, besides the starter. I pulled it out and tested on the ground to confirm. Nothing. Grabbed a old starter I had lying around. I tested it before putting it in. Worked great. I put it in and did every thing up. This time the starter spun but I don't think it is throwing far enough to engage the teeth on the flywheel. By this time I had enough and gave up. Ill pull the starter motor out tomorrow and have a closer look. Also had my hubs machined so that the RX7 brake disc's can fit over them. The 14's make them look huge lol. hmmm rusty :( The RX7 camber tops I modded Before After

Put a battery in the car today and tried out the fuel pump. I left the fuel line that runs to the carbie In a jug. However all that came out was air. I rechecked polarity of the fuel pump, this led to know gain. I finally decided to remove the tank and have a look. It turns out that The modded pickup for an in tank pump that I was going to run caused the problem. I cut the line that is normally used as the In tank pickup to join the in tank pump in. This lead to reusing the std pickup. But at some point it fell off... Don't use spring lamps!!! Fixed that and now I get 7psi at the carbie. Tomorrow will be first start up... All I have to say is... Life get in the way of dreams... Peace

Over the last few days I have spent a fair bit of time on the car. It is almost ready to start. I dropped the sump down and swapped over my timing covers. The picture shows a heater hose as a drain hose, just dummied atm. soon to get proper hose. Fuel lines and Electronic Dizzy. Top of the list tomorrow. Also had a play with the front suspension and wheel fitment. I'm happy with the result. I did a lot of reading and have decided on a tyre size. I'm running 7" wide all round and they will be wrapped in 185/60R14. Currently it has 195/60R14 to give you an idea. A little bit of stretch. One to show brake disc size RX7 vs. KE70. KE70 on top ;) -----Fingers crossed it will be running tomorrow.... maybe, there is always some thing.-----

I have no ecu so thats not an option lol. I know you can get a oil pressure switch that is made for electric fuel pump setups. I think I have enough fittings for oil so I'm piggy backing of the factory pressure switch.

If you took the propotioning valve off a all wheel disc setup car ie the car you got the brakes from. And used it with your car you shouldn't need an engerneer. It was factory fitted to that model of car, you just got the pov pack.

The oil return into the timing cover. The screws are counter sunk to clear the timing chain.

I got a chance to work on the car today. I now have the tank remounted with the wires for the fuel pump run from the pump to the inside of the boot. I ran out of hose clamps so the back end is still sky high. I don't trust the std clamps so it will have to wait till i get some more hose clamps. I did the wiring for the oil pressure sensor. I ran the wire through a hole i punched in the speedo cable grommet. I also wired up the starter and ran the wires to where the battery will be. mounted the starter rely next to the cooling fan rely. Wired it up to the trigger wire over by where the old battery used to be. The Wires leading to the starter now run over the bell housing and then between the motor and engine mount. It still the original wires just rerouted. Setup the electronic dizzy I picked up. It is ready to go in, just waiting on a new oring to suit. Big thanks to basher_20. Pulled it to bits and removed the advance weights. I reinstalled the springs instead of wiring it because it was fiddly and I hate fiddly. Also, it has no weight so nothing should act against the springs.Put it all back together and cut the plug off, made up wires and plus to the coil. The coil is out of my old EXA Turbo n12, It should do the trick. Removed the ballast resister. Turned out that the dizzy was a 5k internal igniter model. Made it easy to wire up, just two wires from the dizzy to the coil. Black (ground) & Black w/ Orange stripe (+12v). Started to take of the timming cover so I can put the modified one on. I Decided that I wanted the turbo oil return in the timing cover and not the sump. Its closer to the turbo and higher up the side of the motor. I was talking to my old man about it and what his thoughts were. About an hour or so of us looking at the spare timming cover and talking and scratching our heads he said "leave it with me". A couple of days latter I got back a timming cover with a oil return in it. I have pic some where, when I find them I'll put them up. The problem. I have put some thought into the fuel system and going EFI. Wiring it up is not an issue, its just power and earth triggered by ignition. Simple. But what if I stack it and rupture a fuel line. Unless I turn the ignition off the fuel will keep pumping. Not great if there is fire and I"m unconscious. Not Good!!!! So I want to have it wired into the oil light switch so if there is no oil pressure then there is no power to the pump. The fuel in the fuel bowl will be plenty to start the car. Once started or while cranking the electric pump would then start pumping. But if I crash the pump stops on its own once the motor stalls. Any ideas would be great. Another thought, I think it is law that the pump has to stop in such a case (crash/leak). If not it should be, after all it seems like common sense to me. Keith

In this pic is how I Have it set up. One line from the thermostat housing and the other to the heater hose on the carbie side of the motor. You can see the fitting sticking out of the heater hose in the above pic. It is just below the fuel line to the carbie. So over all it will be neat. Having a look at it today, either way would be neat. In the long run a stock e70 radiator is cheaper to replace ;)

that the setup that you are using Taz_Rx? I would probably look neater then mine but I already had the stuff to T into the heater return hose.

I did the same thing testing the compression on a mates rx7. Laid the leads over the guard after taking them off the spark plugs to get them out the way. Then lent over the guard to hold the compression tester to the motor while my mate cranked the car. I copped it to the upper inside of my thigh. :S Not good! Now i remove the lead from the coil :y:

I don't think I would gain any thing from it. I have the water line fittings already. One is in the thermostat housing and the other is in the heater hose. Both are pictured above. But thank you for the thought.