4k-t

Brake bias is different between disc and drum brakes. I put disc brakes on the rear of my exa turbo with out changing any thing else in the brake system. They worked well for every day use but under hard braking the rear would lock. Causing the rear the step out on turn in. Worked well when I got used to it. ;D mind you that is a fwd car and the rear wheels are undriven. So may not be such a problem in a rwd.

I got the oil t piece from Autobarn. They are made by Drift as a gauge adaptor. Part number "D1-230036". http://www.shopdrift.com Is the website. In short says AutoPro or Autobarn for drift products in Australia. or maybe Ebay The brass barbed fittings were also bought from Autobarn. Just took my oil pressure sensor in to match thread and came out with the bits I needed. Hopefully it will be running by my Bday on the 6th of June. The budget is slowing me down the most. I got my fuel pressure gauge today. Once I have set the fuel pressure I will be using it as my boost gauge.

I Sorted the orientation of the turbo today. Started putting the water lines on and the oil feed on and cut the length. Its a tight fit with the outlet on the comp side just misses the body. About 10mm in it. Also got a carby hat off of a mitsi van. it sits nice and snug on the stock carby. :D using the stock rubber seal. I Also modded some of my old RX7 camber tops to suit the ke70. I lined up the 0degre mark to where the strut sits normally. I also positioned the strut alittle further back for more caster. From this: To this: That is at it max setting foe shits and giggles. I'm Happy with the result. They will be sprayed black for stealth. Oil fittings: It is getting close to starting. Need to get fuel lines and another brass fitting for the fuel reg.Even doing it on the cheap it adds up. But do it right the first time.

The count down begins. 28 Togo!

Thanks mate, the plan is to have the car done by my bday. 6-6-12. the big 25.... no turbo or p plate mod restrictions. :P Quick update. I went to u tug it and got a carby hat and vl external fuel pump. However the run about ke70 decided that brake were not needed. The Maters cylinder gave up and took the booster with it. Mind you this happened while my sister was driving down our drive way. Luckly she jumped on the Drift brake and missed the house by a foot. Gravel didnt help :P While I was at it did a tune and service. Found the points were F'ed so in went the new set that was bought for the turbo. Purring like a kitten now. Swapped the booster and kitted the master and It stops too.

There is a few ke70 at the lonsdale yard, on a couple older. Unknown of what

So I rang regency today to confirm the ride height of the KE70. I got given the measurement of 345mm front and rear (eyebrow height). So from there I went out to my KE70 which is 100% factory. I measure the ride height to find that both front and back are 345mm (eyebrow height). I was abit confused so I called back to check. The guy on the other end check a few things but said that thats the figure they get from Canberra so stiff. I know springs can sag over time. Lets face it they have been in the car for about 30 years. But it still looks poo. tooooooooo high. I took a pic of the front eyebrow height to show "lowest legal" What I want. thats at 265mm ha ha only 80mm difference. What heights are you guys and girls running, what are you getting away with? I honestly think this "Lowest ride height" Is a load. Its still able to compete with the 4WD lift kit crew and win "highest car" category. Pfft! the Government has no style! Peace

BOOST!

So does this mean that when I turn 25 I can slap a turbo on a 4k with out risking my license. I'm on my p's ATM. Is there only demerit points involved if you are not exempt, in my case being over 25 yr old?

And you did a top job. If your asking how long will the rely will last, I ask you how long do you spend on the limiter? ha ha I decided on a cheap VL external pump. Quick and easy. also more than enough to get the job done. I did also get some stuff done on the car over the last few days. I cut the old battery tray mount out. It got in the way of the turbo outlet so it had to go. Also made a hole for the cooler piping to the inter cooler. I wanted to know what the oil pressure was doing so I bought a oil pressure gauge. I mounted it in the center console box that has no real purpose. The plan is to have a boost gauge next to it. For the Boost gauge I'm going to use a fuel pressure gauge that reads in PSI. with a scale of 0-15 PSI. a few reasons. Firstly I don't plan on running the k motor at 30 PSI which seems to be the std for Boost gauge scale. A fuel Gauge does not say "boost of turbo", the one in the post to my door, reads "psi". Plus it is cheaper! However It does not read in vacuum. Yet to be finished. Once I have my boost gauge in ill clean it up. Few pic of the turbo mounting, this one is through the inter cooler hole The front all back together. I found a bed for the limiter. It will be mounted under the dash some where because it is not water tight. I ended up changing my plans to mount the battery where I had it. I wasn't real happy with the height clearance. Too worried that it will weld it self to my bonnet haha. So the plan is to make up a new battery mount and put it down on the side of the chassis rail on the divers side. Like this: Never too late ;)

Did some painting today. I painted the front bezzel and radiator, also the intercooler. They are all now black. Also mounted the engine fan thermo switch ans relay. I ran the power of the + of the coil on the in side of the ballast resistor. I did this so that I a 12v+ source switch with the ignition. That way the thermo fan wont run after the car is turned off. I ran the wire to the ballast resistor throw the inside of the guard.

In the setup I have the RX7 disc slides over the AE86 hub (floating Disc). This is because the RX7 disc is deeper then the AE86 disc and for it to line up with the caliper the disc mounts to the front of the hub. The wheel & wheel nuts hold the disc up against the hub. This is a common setup. ie falcon, commo, RX7 lol so on... They have been re-drilled to suit. Only issue is that the diameter of the hub is larger than the inside diameter of the Disc. blurry but you get the point.

I got the fitting for the oil feed and water feed. all up the 3 brass fitting cost $22 The adapter and oil feed barb. water feed barb. I also had a look at putting the oil return into the front timing cover. This would give me a better path for my oil return. and make it easier to make heat shields up for the alternator. I also found a non-A/c Crank pully so I'll be using that. I also got the exhaust inlet gasket for the turbo today along with black paint for the inter cooler and front bezel. I swapped the coil over springs over from the original springs (unknown spring rate) with the RX7 coil over springs (unknown spring rate). On the ground the the RX7 spring felt softer, abit more give. but once on the shocker and in the car I found the overall result to mimic the original springs. The only markings I have on the AE86 springs is "K10" Ill still swap the other spring over and leave the final test for the road test. Now all I need to do is to work out how to adjust damper and such. If at all possible. That is all I did today, it is getting there. Slowly. Peace

I bought a FPR tonight so I should see it early next week. I bought it off of http://www.turbogemini.com/ Cost me $133.50 inc postage. Due to the condition of the EFI fuel tank I'm going to use the carby tank. The plan is to have an in-tank fuel pump on a modified carry pick up. This would feed the reg via the stock feed line. I'll will use the canister vent line as the return as it is way bigger then the stock return line. I'll then use the return line as my vent line for the canister. I'll probably play with voltages to the pump depending on the fuel pressure. The most I'll need 20 psi of fuel pressure. That's due to the limitations of the turbo. Not very efficient past 14-15psi. I was toying with the idea of a surge tank. But I don't really have to coin for it. Has any one got one cheap. Setup maybe? Also I need to get my Ae86 hubs machined so that my RX7 disks will fit over them. does any one know of any where in Adelaide where I could get 6-10mm machined of the the lip? The diameter of the hub need to be reduced to allow the disc the slide over. Sorry for the blurry & the messy! Peace

That's the plan, as in the above diagram. I know that this wiring works.

what side of the coil did you have the cut spliced into? The kit cost me $37.95 from the reynella branch in SA but are the same price on thier website. CAT. NO. KC5378 Here is a link: http://jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=KC5378&keywords=kc5378&form=KEYWORD

I have put the rev limiter together, and made a diagram of how it will be wired into the car. I need to find a case for it. Infomation I used can be found here. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/17454-home-made-rev-limiter-for-carby-car/ However I used a Signal switch from jaycar because I could get it cheaper then a tacho with a shift light.

I had my J pipe welded. looks good. I now have the turbo mounted. I can now work out pipes and oil lines. I also bought myself a signal switch from jaycar. Ill use this to set up a rev limiter. I got the idea from a making a limiter out of a shift light. I didnt have a shift light so i bought the next cheapest thing. lol

Got out into the shed tonight and had a play. I mounted the fuse box to the side of the engine bay using the factory slip on mount that is normally on the battery clamp. I also dummied up the turbo on the "J" pipe to work out where I want it. I wanted to keep the "J" pipe as short as posible so the lower the better. I'm happy with the position All I need to do is rotate the intake housing. I also modified the bottom radiator hose to move it away from the turbo. You can see in the above pic where I plan to get water from form my turbo. The hole on the thermostat housing which used to house the blue three pronged thingo. Used for emissions.... we don't need that! so Ill be getting a brass fitting with a barbed end to fill the hole. The blue thingo Fitted the rear part of the exhaust. Ill remove and paint after the rest of the exhaust has been made up. But I had to see what it would look like. Also the dessition to use my AE86 suspention and FC3S Brakes was mad tonight when for shit and Giggles I test fitted my coilovers and rear springs From the AE86. Inside bling! Peace Edited to add pic of blue thingo!

Not at all mate, It is always good to see how others have done it. Besides I may move my battery down there. I removed the A/C so now I have half an hectair down there now. haha Cheers for the link. In other news I visited my exhaust guy and he bent up my "J" Pipe. He did a good job considering what I brought him as a template. I also spent some time cleaning up all the part ready to weld the flanges to each end. stock manifold flange the pice of pipe that goes to the T2 flange is from the stock exhast. center flange.

yeah a trick I got from my old man. It works! cheers man No point doing it if your going to do it again next week.

Done some more bits and piceses. Firstly I made up a mock up J pipe to take to the exhaust shop. I didnt really want to mount my battery in the boot so I made at mount for it. The battery will now be located behind the drivers side head light. I was made out of sheet mettle which I bent into shap and drilled hole in. i folded all the edges back on them selfs for strength and to remove the sharp edges. I used the original charcol canister mount hole and drilled two holes in the inner gaurd to secure the top. The plastic tray has plastic lugs, these are used to stop it slipping around. Not wanting my battery to move I drilled holes in the mount to secure it. I sill need to remount the charcol canister and also I have to sort out the battery clamp. That wont be hard. While I had the front off I also went about fitting the intercooler. I didnt fit where I wanted so It was flipped over and Is now mounted (dummied) on the drivers side. With the front all back on it is hard to see (WIN). It will be painted black ;) along with the pannel and radiator. So thats been my day. Peace

thanks mate, just another quick question. what modle of car is the air box from. the thing the carby is in?

Over the last few days I have donr little one the conversion. Sadly I managed to kill the head on my sisters car on the way to Upullit do do some research. So my time has gone into fixing that. Now don't and running sweet again. I did however have a loot at the stock FC3S intercooler off of my RX7. I toock the top plate and under tray bit off. This is what it looks like nude! I dummied it up to the car and i think it is going to fit nicely under the head lights. I also tested the fuel pump in the *6 tank to fink it is seized. I took it out to inspect it and this is what I came across. As you can see it is F'd along with the sender unit. The ke70 sender is basicly the same besides the low warning probe so this will be used instead. Of course I'll need a new pump. Cheap options????? A shot from the pump hole... YUMMY! I Also got a T2 flange for the turbo. So hopefully I can start on the "J" pipe tomorrow. $20 with studs from exhaust technology All I need the do it is drill and tap the stud holes.

Hey mate, First off top job! Secondly do you have any pics of what you did to the 4k dizzy. Cheers mates