ChrisGT

they are 1460mm wide 50mm wider than ur stock diff. However only one side needs to be cut down and one axle is 50mm shorter then the other. So if u cut down one side it will be ur stock width.

ok i have sorted out my diff situation. Thanks radrollaz for your offer but ill have to pass, this guy offered me a diff that i committed to just before your offer. What I'm going with is An F series diff out of a MX13 MkII corona Supra MA61 LSD center Corona RT142 Avanti disc brakes with internal drum hand brake I'm getting all the parts needed for this diff including new bearings, spacer rings for the disc brake conversion, hand brake cables and rear half of tail shaft. This diff measures 1410mm wide so i wont need to cut it down as ill get around 20mm per side extra length then the ke30 diff, and with the wheels i have on the car now, the extra width will fill the guards nicely! Also the diff is the stock ke35 pcd 4x114.3. So all that will need to be done is grind off the MX13 mounts and weld on my ke35 leaf spring mounts...easy :yes:

Double post

I think i may have organized and an F series diff out of a MX13, with a supra Ma61 LSD and disc brakes. I'm going to find out off the guy tomorrow if he can get it for me for sure....if this falls through. Then i would be very keen. Ill let you know tomorrow thanks!

yeah well now i have to go down the expensive road! anyboady got a bigger diff they want to sell me?

yeah it was stock...was going to change it but i have to do it now! anyone got a upgraded diff they wanna sell?

Since i got my car goin i decided to take my mate out for a quick spin around the block, just got out of the drive way, then the diff went!! Wasnt doing burnouts or anything, just let the clutch out normally and put my foot down, the rear end started to tramp then bang....couldnt move the car. Pushed it back into the driveway and pulled the rear cover off the diff to discover that i had stripped the spider gears. So its time to find a new diff!!

depends on the way u set it up coz my throttle body is so close to the SC and i have a 3inch pipe coming off it with a pod its very loud. Thanks mate unfortunately the car isn't regoed and i need a engineers cert. So it wont be ready by then. But I'm gonna try make it there with my 4age ke20 (Decoop). Two new videos! Me and kebin spent all yesterday doing more wiring, and was able to take it for it first test run. The thing hammers, breaks traction so easily, and the whine of the SC is so loud. But it gets bad axle tramp in 1st and 2nd, so ill have to sort that out.

finally got the car running. After all the dramas with the motor the problem was that a couple of the injectors were seized open. Here is the vid of it starting up:

ok guys here is an update as of last weekend decoop is back on the road. It still needs a better cut and polish as i just gave it a quick one after the colour sand so its a bit dull.....the paint jobs is not the best and its not the straightest car. But time and money was a factor and I'm happy how my $450 paint job ended up! The car feels so much better then the last one and is a lot quieter as there are not holes everywhere. Also Kebin rewired the whole car including ecu, so it looks alot neater. Here are some pics: There are still heaps of stuff to do like finish off everything in the engine bay, put the stereo in and finish painting bits and pieces. Will get more pics and info when i have time.

na we don't....ive been so busy working on this thing. more updates.... I pulled all the suspension out of decoop mkI, the ta22 struts, brakes and LCA's and had the rotors, pads, ball joints and all bushes replaced. Then fitted it all to decoop MKII: I then had to fit the Simmons on the front to clear the brakes...this is what the car looks like with all the clear coats finished, it still needs a light sand and a cut and polish to bring up the shine: Then the brake booster was cleaned up painted and fitted to the car along with the clutch mater. Yesterday id just finished installing the motor, gearbox and tail shaft, so now the whole drive train is in. I had to modify a few things to make the car alot neater and work better than it was on decoop MKI. I reinforced the fire wall where the clutch master is bolted, so stop it flexing so much: The gearbox cross member in decoop MKI was a bit dogie, i was surprised to find that the original 3k cross member fits, it just needs to be bolted into the bolt holes that are closest to the rear of the car. Old cross member: Original 3k cross member bolted up to the T50: The shifter hole for the gearbox in the floor needed to be moved back for the T50 so i cut part of the tunnel out in order for the shifter to stick through the floor and cut some sheet metal to fill the original hole:

After i sprayed the car in high fill i sanded it back and filled any low spots. Then i sprayed the colour: First i sprayed the panels: This is what they came up like after 3 coats of colour and 7 coats of clear: Then it was time to spray the body: This is how it came up with no clear on it yet: And with the clear: After this i let the car sit for a while and decided that i wasn't really happy with how the clear came up....got too much overspray in the paint, so i rubbed the clear coat smooth and applied another 5 coats of clear and it came up heaps better. More pics to come!!

thanks for the pics kev! I'm gonna paint it ford breeze.....the new colour the ford xr6 ripcurl utes are. Ford Breeze

U got all the photos....post them up! The car is currently in high fill, needs a rub down then it is ready for paint!

sweet good work john, so you got it engineered with with ke55 brakes? do u have a charcoal can? and who did u use?

Yeah well last night I was driving down the highway doing around 110km/h and the bonnet flew up! So now the bonnet is stuffed and I got massive dents on the body between the bonnet and the windscreen where the bonnet hit that. I was lucky the windscreen didn't brake. So now I don't know what I want to do with the car, as where the dents occurred I found a shit load of bog. And to add to this today I found out that the ecu on the 35 is stuffed, I was trying to start it on the weekend and it would crank but nothing. Then I pulled 4th spark plug out and the cylinder was full of fuel, I managed to pump out 1litle of fuel! First I thought it was the injector so I swapped it out with a spare I had, but still the same. So I took it to kebin's house and tested it in his car and it wouldn't start his either. yeah i thought of that but its mounted solid at the back there so it should be ok.

I'm so close to starting it.....as long a kebin gets all his shit done it should be able to start on the weekend. Here is a pic of the exhaust:

thanks mate....I'm glad you do. Its my girlfriends brothers. Its a 1974 with a 85 fuel injected motor, race spec fully stipped down to 900kg, full cage ect.

use this web site: http://akb.norbie.net/Public/Gearing.aspx u need to know the gear ratio's of your box thou because it dosnt have the early corolla boxes stored in there.

thanks mate, i want to get around 130kw atw. Last weekend at the toymods dyno day a corolla with a ae101 4agze, nevo pully and front mount got 117kw atw (front wheel drive). So i think anywhere around 130kw ill be happy with as you do lose more prower through the drive train on a rear wheel drive car. But remember with an SC motor its all about the torque. Also later on i may get a bigger pully to up the boost, but then i would need a aftermarket computer. I know this guy who is running a SC14 on his Mr2 with an oversized pully and getting 18psi, and he hits 12psi just over 2000revs! As for quater mile time i have no idea?...the Sc will run out of puff in the high rev range. This car wasnt built for the strip anyway...just a cool street cruiser.

you will need to use your ke55 pedal box an ae71 pedal box wont fit in your ke55. You will just have to modify your ke55 pedal box to suit a hydraulic clutch.

The car will be finished at the exhaust shop tomorrow! Here is a pic of the SC and intercooler pipes: Its also getting a full 2.5inch mandrel bend exhaust with 3.5inch dump pipe. More pics to come when i get it back!

thanks mate....na the AK didnt really fit. I had to cut some of the idler off where it over hangs a bit, and put a little dent in the collector pipe. but it clears buy like 10-15mm. I didnt like to do it this way but have no cash for custom ones at the moment and may swap them later.

yeah thats its good side...haha....the other side has a dent in it. Its good that your keeping your 20 John after all the work you put into it, and i havn't fixed the exhaust yet...still need to do that. I did get offered $3500 for it off a guy at work so I'm thinking about selling it to him....but i know he wont take care of it.

nope nothing still the same. I was actually thinking about selling it to buy something more practial for a daily. Are you still selling yours? Heres a pic that i took of it about a month ago when i cleaned it up: