Old-Skool-Rolla

Hey guys. My name Nathan, some may know me, most wont :D I am considering a conversion into a KE55 or similar. I have been researching it for a while now, and have read the FAQ, and did a few searches, but i still have these questions. I WAS going to do a 4AGTE but have been suggested against it, as the work needed. Now i have 2 decisions i would like to do. 1. A 4K with pretty well most of the stuff suggestd in the FAQ on how to work a K-series motor. Using a K50, or T50 g/box, and most likely the standard diff, "profesionall" wellded. Budget of say $1200. 2. A 4AGE (probably bigport) with a T50 g/box, and Again most likely the stock doff "professionaly" welded. Simple mods like pod, cams, advance timing, and exhaust system etc. Again with a budget of around $1200-$1400. BOTH BUDGETS ARE MINUS THE INNITIAL PURCHASE OF THE CAR. everything i need to do, after i have bought a complete car. I like the 4K option, as i read they will make good torque, but wont be a street warior, just to stun commo drivers. They sound PHAT :D from what i have heard, and will be a fun drive :D I like the 4AGE option, as it is something a little "different" (i can't think of a single one with in 100Km of here) And they will obviously be quik with no mods. I am leaning away from the 4A option as i have been told i will need to modify the crossmember/mounts, and i don't really have any knowledge of this yet. I am leaning away from the 4K option as it is still a 25 odd year old motor, and essentially is a POS :D I am worried that even with a rebuild it wont last long. Whereas a 4A would last fine, as it is newer and "better" The reason i am asking everyone, is not because i want to know what will give me instant "street cred" but which will be a better option overall. I don't mind a little hard work I would personally prefer the 4A, but if it is the worst option, than maybe not. Donor car would probably be a KE55 sedan or hardtop, or KE35 coupe like Rolla__boy's Cheers for any help guys. Nathan :D

so is it just the name wrong or the pics are not the right car?? is a TE a corolla???

aiight, cool thanks, um, on the KE27, i had to type in TE27 to find a pic, so yeah, that would be right With the KE21, i had never heard of a 21, only a 20, but what info i found, said only 21, so i figured they were the same, but labeled the pic, so itmatched the info, in order to avois, "well one says this, the other says that??" and with the blue KE20/25, the same picture came up when i typed in both KE20 and KE25 so i just put it as a 25. KE26, no excuse for this one, the info i used didnt tell me, so i didnt know :D but wouldnt the p/van, just be the same, but blacked out windows on the back?? thanks for the help mate, ill change them now for you :D :D Cheers Nathan

KE55 :lock: ;) :( :(

KE30 KE36 KE38 KE37 KE51

eh yguys, i have been on these forums only recently, and thought i might make a bit of a contributions to the forums ;) I was unsure of what the diferent model designaions where, and what they looked like, so i did a little research, and tought that what i came across, wight help a few others that may be in my position :( :( KE1x 1966-1969 The initial car, the KE1x series was small, with a 90 in (2286 mm) wheelbase, and used a 4-speed manual transmission or 2 speed automatic transmission, with rear wheel drive. The suspension in front was MacPherson struts supported by a transverse leaf spring beneath the engine crossmember, with leaf springs connected to a solid axle in back. Japanese engines: 1K — 1.1 L (1077 cc) I4, 2-valve OHV, carb, 60 hp (56 kW) 3K — 1.2 L (1166 cc) I4, 2-valve OHV, carb, 55 hp (41 kW) JPN-market chassis: KE-10/11 — Sedan, 2-door/4-door KE-15 — Hardtop coupe KE-16 — Wagon, 2-door KE2x 1970-1978 The KE26 wagon and van were still marketed in Japan after the 30-series was introduced. Japanese engines: 2T-C — 1.6 L (1588 cc) I4, 2-valve OHV, carb, 75 hp (56 kW) 3K-C — 1.2 L (1166 cc) I4, 2-valve OHV, carb, 55 hp (41 kW) JPN-market chassis: KE-20 — Sedan, 2-door/4-door (Std, DX, Hi-DX) KE-25 — Hardtop coupe (DX, SL, SR) KE-26 — Wagon, 3-door Panelvan, 3-door KE-27 — Hardtop coupe (Levin/Trueno)(also known as TE27) (scrap that, apparently, a KE27 is a KE55 dressed up to lok like a TE27, who would have guessed?? :lock: ) KE3x, KE4x, KE5x 1974-1981 The 3K engine were used in certain markets, while most Japanese and American models had the stronger 2T engine. A "Toyoglide" 2/3-speed automatic transmission was added as well as a four-speed and five-speed manual tranmission, driving to the rear wheels. A three-door "liftback" (KE50) and sport coupe (KE51) was added in 1976. The KE40 and KE60 series were assigned to the Sprinter variants. Japanese engines: 2T-G — 1.6 L (1588 cc) I4, 8-valve DOHC, carb, 124 hp (93 kW) 2T-C — 1.6 L (1588 cc) I4, 2-valve OHV, carb, 75 hp (56 kW) 3K-C — 1.2 L (1166 cc) I4, 2-valve OHV, carb, 55 hp (41 kW) 4K-C — 1.3 L (don't know cc) I4, 2-valve? OHV, carb, not sure of power rating. (4k was in KE38 and KE55 apparently, but no other??) JPN-market chassis: KE-31 — Sedan, 2-door/4-door KE-36 — wagon, 3-door KE-38 — Wagon, 5-door KE-37 — Hardtop coupe (Levin) KE-51 — Sport coupe (Levin) KE-55 — Liftback and sedan, 4-door NOTE: 1. KE70 models were not added as i could only find USA specs. 2. This info was sourcd using www.google.com :D and wikipedia. i simply thought it might be nice to share :D :D 3. I have a feeling that a few of my fotos may not correspond with the actual names i have given to them, so please don't flame me, rather just suggest to me what i should fix :D KE20 KE25 KE26 (P/van has steel plates instead of rear windows, on sides) KE27

yeah about the WRX rolla, it sounds really interesting, you should make a members thread or something, and let us know how it goes :lock:

you say think outside the square how about a AE86 sprinter, running a 2JZ-GTTE engine, and a a diff out of a ferrari of some type, and some 17" mesh wheels, and brakes that could stop a FA-18 fighter jt dead in its tracks, and evey panel carbon fibre, stripped interior, nothing but the drivers seat, the steering wheel, a few gauges, and a roll cage, and thats about it. easy a 9 sec pass right there :lock: ;)

bahaha i get the tissues, i think i just didnt want to think about his "man mess" and it sliped my mind :P :P oh and i want your mums excell :y: ;) B-J

please excuse my ignorance, but what are the tissues for???

my 2nd choice would be a '98 model hyundai Excell, with some 17" chrome spinners, and everything chrome plated, a 1.3L SOHC motor, making a massive 38fwkw, and a oversized pod filter, that could suck in smal children, a BOV run of a compressor kit, and a body kit that isnt fitted right, and looks f@$kED when it is, a 3.5" straight through exhaust, with a fOoLy HeCkTiC 6" cannon that sticks out a bout 8" past the back of the car, and points up to the side like a JDM excell should have, and chopped springs, or no springs :P and some cheap, retreaded tyres, that stick out past the gaurds, coz EVERYONE knows it gives better starts at the lights, and more cornering capability, have it stickerd up with, GReddy, Trust, A'pexi, Momo, HKS, NOS Holley, and a TuRD sticker on the front windscreen, even though my motor is stock, and a spoiler that is bigger than the roof, and scrapes the top of most carpark entrances :) :D :D NOW THAT is fully sick!! :y: ;) :P :P

ahh thanks for that, W58 it is!! Cheers Nathan :y:

If i could spend as much money on a car as i wanted, and get it all for free :P :) 1. KE55 sedan, with a 4AGTE running a TD04L turbo, and all the goodies, like external wastegate, FMIC (matt black behind the bar so it can't be seen) and a Supra 5 Speed Gearbox (E58 isnt it??) and eithre a VLturbo LSD with 3.45:1 gears, or a Salbury (gemini) LSD (have been proven to hold upto ~450HP when locked, ~350HP unlocked) again with 3.45:1 gears. With a full rear suspention setup, coilovers all round, and some AE111 superstrut Brakes on the front, and some cross drilled disc brakes on the rear. Painted Ferrari red, with a carbon fibre boot and bonnet :y: and some niice 15 or 16 inch SUPER light wheels, for better handeling, (8 inch wide rer, 6 inch front) and some really expensive quality rubber. 2x Recaro fixed back bucketseats in the front, and a custom rear bench in the rear, all retrimed in tan leather, with a dash, console and full dsh thingy out of a SX corolla (series 2 '92 model) and a 5 point harnes for the 2 front passengers. 5% tints around aswell as front windscreen, with the entir body shaved over, nothing sticking out at all. all up about $100,000 or more worth. Try to make it look as stock as possile, but with nice paint and respectable wheels, so eery f@$ker thinks its a POS and try's to race me in their WRX and then get SMASHED ;) :P :P Can you see it the way i can??? :D :D :D

if the VN is a Auto can i just bolt up a manual gear box, or is there internals to be messed with?? i would like to do 99% of the work myself, and have mates that will be able to lend their expertese for free. so $1500 would be reasonable then? :laff: and by a thrash machine, i mean a registered car, that is just a weekend driver, and occasional track day car. so can anyone say for sure if a V6 into a KE55 would be engineerable??

well if i DID put a V6 into it, it would just be a drag/burnout/thrash car, because i already have a '92 SX Seca as a daily driver. would it cost ME under $1000 or do you have some kind of trick up your sleeve? i can pick up a VN commo that is driveable but has rear end damage for $450ono and a KE55 for $300 with rego. i would be doing as much as possible myself. would i have any change from $1500 not including the purchase of the cars.?

ok fella's, i FULLY agree with you 100% that one low one is a knob!!! now back to the topic that is a V6 into a rolla. After reading this thread, i now want a V6 instead of a 4AGE into my KE55 when i get it. the only problem is practicality. I would like to be able to actually DRIVE the car, not just do burnouts at every stop sign, trafic light, corner etc. :laff: :laff: hehe. sorry if it sounds like a n00b question, but is a V6 a "cheap" transplant? it sounds expensive (more so the custom work than the motor). i know its imposible to say prices on conversions, but would it be possible for a V6 to be cheaper than a 4AGE job??? or is it more "cheaper" in the fact that its more bang for buck?? I'm not looking for a flaming!! :laff: