rebuilder86

Ok, so Banjo, I can't just assume it doesn't have 3 terminals so therefore it can't be internally ballasted. That's where you gave the bum steer haha. In the interest of helping other who may stumble on this post for information, can I request we leave a perfect trail of information for future users and ask you to edit your post. Your knowledge is so large, that anyone would see your name against a post and take everything you say as gospel. "A coil with an internal ballast resistor is easily recognised as it has three (3) terminals." That clearly states that that they ALL have three terminals, not true at all, and not what you were trying to say I'm sure. Ok so, I should not just settle for a 3 ohm 12 volt coil, I really need the ballast resistor and 9V coil to be set up the same as a stock 5k pointless dizzy ignition.

Hey Banjo, you are the genius in this stuff, but I think you might be misinformed about this point: 'A coil with an internal ballast resistor is easily recognised as it has three (3) terminals.' I think they simply have the ballast resistor in them and there is no way to bypass it when starting, there is no third terminal. In fact, i can find practically no coils with 3 terminals, except for those designed for marine use. I'm going to say you gave me a bum steer. :P I'm really struggling with comments liek this "" Which coil should I use with a non-ballast ignition system? Use any standard non-ballast coil, or we offer a performance non-ballast coil from Bosch (blue coil 0221119027). Do not use a ballast coil. Although you may gain a performance advantage using such coils, failure will be imminent! "" Does the author mean, do not use a coil with an internal ballast, or do not use a coil designed to be run from a ballast,. Failure of what, the coil or the points. People are so useless at describing this subject in simple English.

yes, but that doesnt mean its the right coil.

so mine only has 2 terminals, but it has a 4 ohm primary resistance. According to this website, http://www.ratwell.c...l/BlueCoil.html the 4 ohms mean it is internally ballasted according to the writer, see screenshot if you can't find that text. I was really hoping for a yes or no and someone to tell me what coil I should be using with the 5k internal ignitor. Reading your description, it seems I have a coil with too high a resistance for this electronic ignition module. Could this explain why I get an orange spark and not a blue/white spark? When i do get a coil with 1.3-1.7 ohms resistance, should I be putting back the ballast resistor?? From all my reading, i have learnt that ballast resistors are onyl for poitns ignition, to save the points. Why the ʞ©$ɟ would toyota put a ballast resistor on an electronic ignition motor? Its getting me so frustrated that I can't trust any one source of information, because of all the competing information.

I'm struggling to find information on this subject, everything is so complicated. It should be simple. Simple question, are my 2 ignition components perfectly compatible? Am I getting the best spark with a coil such as this? I believe what I have is a 5k internal igniter dizzy and a bosch blue coil. The primary resistance of the coil is 3.9 ohms and the secondary to primary is 8000 ohms. i suspect that high resistance primary indicates this thing is internally ballast resisted?????? is this correct, if so .... It is my understanding that an electronic ignition lie this doesn't need a ballast resistor, so I removed it from the system when I got this coil,and did some research. Now i think this one is resisted inside. When i bought the coil, i simply walked up to the counter and said, A COIL FOR A 4k PLEASE. they were so quick to get me a coil I think they just gave me a 'COIL'. The people (staff at shops) here in this country wouldn't know the difference between electronic ignition and points ignition, let alone the requirements of the associated components. Now, I'm not changing anything on the dizzy, thats impossible, but is this ~4ohms resistance too much for this dizzy?? If someone could clarify without making me do ten hours of research to understand their post that would be great.

anyone?

sorry i should have replied to ur post about the dimple on the cam sprocket. i think the 2 points should be pointing at each other :) Good stuff

sweet, not worrying! convincing post!

yeh mine is a 5k internal one. i think I'm coming to the conclusion that the tacho in the cluster might simply be busted.

I'm on to my next project which I thought would be simple, wire up the standard tachometer in the dash of my car powered by a 4k, to the ignition system. A couple of points to clarify: 1. I have not been successful 2. The car is not a manufactured car, its more like a really bad hot rod, with parts from different old toyotas, known here in the philippines as an 'OWNER TYPE JEEP' 3. The engine is a 4k with an electronic pointless distributor, and therfore the wiring is different to a points gap type dizzy. 4. the instrument cluster is from some sort of old toyota, no ideawhat , and can not get any idea from browsing pictures of toyota instrument clusters on google. 5. the tacho part is seemingly basic, a constant 12 v supply in, a constant ground and a pulse/signal wire. I have tried 4 different ways to run it. 1. constant 12 volts, (from ignition switch, is definitely being supplied) with the ground GROUNDED, and pulse connected to NEGATIVE terminal on coil 2. constant 12 volts, (from ignition switch, is definitely being supplied) with the ground GROUNDED, and pulse connected to POSITIVE terminal on coil 3. constant 12 volts, (from ignition switch, is definitely being supplied) with the ground ISOLATED and connected the negative terminal on coil and the corresponding wire on the dizzy to the pulse signal, so as to mimmick what this diagram of a volvo with hotspark ignition is recommended somewhere on the net. I also tried this with backwards, with the pulse terminal connected to the coil and ground terminal connected to corresponding dizzy. This is too complicated to explain over the net, can anyone who has successfully wired one up tell me what I am doing wrong?

mind you i may have jsut foudn the first bit of evidence in favour of Altezzas theory No idea how reputable the source. My pipe would be about 1.6 inch so lets assume a 2 inch pipe with a mitred 90 degree elbow, thats the same as 10 feet of pipe. thats 3 metres. Now mine is more lliek 1.6, and the angle is more like 70-80 degrees, so I'm going to guess that smaller pipe means more restriction per degree of mitre. Base on the data below, I created a polynomial average trendline on a graph in excel and found that a 1.5 inch pipe with 80 degree mitre would equate to 7.5 feet of pipe, so about 2.3 m. also, the losses become exponentially greater as the velocity increases. Double the air speed, quadruple the loss. So when at idle, this is barely noticable. so i was correct in assuming this would have more an effect higher up the revs. Losses in equivalent feet of straight pipe: SMOOTH BEND ELBOWS Pipe Size 90-degree standard 90-degree long radius 45-degree standard 180-degree standard 2 inch 5.0 3.3 2.6 8.2 2½ 6.0 4.1 3.2 10 3 7.5 5.0 4.0 12 3½ 9.0 5.9 4.7 15 4 10 6.7 5.2 17 5 13 8.2 6.5 21 ‘Standard’ = radius/diameter ratio of 1. ‘Long Radius’ = radius/diameter ratio of 1.5. MITRED ELBOWS Pipe Size 90-degree 60-degree 45-degree 30-degree 2 inch 10 4.5 2.3 1.3 2½ 12 5.2 2.8 1.7 3 15 6.4 3.2 2.0 3½ 18 7.3 4.0 2.4 4 21 8.5 4.5 2.7 5 25 11 6.0 3dfsd

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oh no no please don't tell me its desirable, that's the last thing I want to hear, I want to be able to make this thing more powerful haha. I can understnad how the 90 degree bend in an inlet helps, air flowing around the outer portion of the BEND will have to move faster than that flowing around the inside, causing a good vaporisation of the fuel in that charge. But remember, an exhaust has nothing to do with fuel delivery and this is not a bend, its a sudden change in direction, where the design of the join itself causes the passage to be narrower than the diameter of the pipe. This is how i imagine the flow is being disturbed during high power high RPM periods. I would like to know if there is any truth behind my theory. see the waves bouncing off the pipe wall pushing the exhaust gases through a narrower passage to escape.

That's quite comforting advice, however I'm not entirely sure that I bring myself to believe that a 90 degree snap bend like this could so simply be compared to an extra metre of pipe.... Is this some rule of thumb that is commonly known?? If so, how would someone come up with such a rule of thumb, is it common for car manufacturers to inadvertently introduce sudden 90 degree changes of direction in an exhaust and therefore a science has been developed to calculate how much effect it has?? hahahahaha I'm not writing off your knowledge, just trying to work out where you got that really perfect description of my exact situation. Also, this isn't a bend, its more like a t junction with one of the Ts blocked up.

Anyone with experience in exhaust flow know if this seemingly ridiculous 80 degree but weld of the exhaust pipe just beneath the manifold would be causing me a power or economy issue? Its not a joke, it really is welded like that, due to the steering arm and housing being in the way. This is the Philippines where quality workmanship is few and far between and I will probably have to spend a week driving around to find someone with the welding ability and ability to move the steering mechanism to make it all line up. As this is such a mission for me to endeavour to fix, I want to know not opinions, but actual fact, if this would be causing an excessive back-pressure at the exhaust valves. My gut tells me it would be nothing at idle, but at high RPM when lots of air is flowing through, my uninformed opinion would be that this is a major restriction. See attachments for photos of this crazy piece of work. Cheers

Timing could be completely could be wrong if the marking lines are incorrect to begin with. I have read some people on this forum saying their harmonic balancers/timing pulleys were somehow misaligned completely! Like perhaps from another engine with a similar keyslot. No idea if this is possibly an issue with a 4A GE though. With timing at #1 TDC and cam marks lined up at #1 firing: Open the rocker cover, and check that number one's cams are both in the closed positions and that rotating the camshaft about 30 degrees each way doesn't open any of them at all. That will verify that timing is correct in terms of the camshaft. If one valve does open then something is not quite right. If that is all correct, check that the dizzy rotor is also pointed at cylinder one. If not, the dizzy is installed off a tooth or completely off alignment altogether. I once bought an engine for a mazda 323 astina online. When it arrived and I couldn't get it to start, it took the extent of doing a compression test to realise it had no connecting rods. I hope that's not your issue! haha

yeh i guess that part as much, just keen to know if anyone has used the short plugs in this scenario and actually witnessed an increase in fuel economy or power. I can't seem to source any of these long reach plugs in the entire province of Cebu and the toyota 3-4K and all its variants are supposed to be one of the most popular engines in the entire country. Very frustrating.

nice! If only they sold falcons here in the philippines, that would make my life alot easier. thanks heaps. out of interest, does anyone know what if any difference I will notice when I finally get these long reach plugs? I read somewhere that you MUST use the long reach with the dished pistons. I've been on standard plugs since I've owned this thing but couldn't tell you what effect it had on fuel consumption as there were too many show stopping factors affecting my fuel consumption up until last week. (15-20 L / 100ks) ill try find these and report back if I notice any change.

Anyone with these long reach plugs BRE527Y able to do me a favour and measure how far from the seat of the plug to the gap? I'm trying to source some in a country where they don't know the difference between a 4k and a 4KU or 5K and i have to do it myself and actually measure their spark plugs on the shelf. :(

It is there, but it doesn't stop much oil. I may have exaggerated when I talked about how much oil there is. None of the cars I have ever owned have had a flame arrestor plate / oil throw-up catcher plate thing that has actually worked. I think the theory is borked. oil can exist as a vapour, and it is this vapour along with the carbon in it that causes sludge in the top of an engine (rocker cover) and therefore incidentally also in PCV valves. As a liquid its not such a bad thing, its keeping the damn valve clean, so long as it is constantly getting a little bit and not too much. Id like to know if anyone actually has a PCV valve in a 4k that actually stays clean after one hard drive.

Little Red, i have rebuilt this carb 3 times now. Its clean as I can get it, every single orifice. The mixture needle is in tip top shape also, and so is the seat. However, the inside surface of the little brass tube pressed into the casting that the fuel and bleed air goes down past the idle stop solenoid, is quite rough. Perhaps it is restricting the flow a bit. I should emphasise, I only need the mixture out this many turns to make it idle when cold or hot. If I put it back to 2 turns it will still idle, but not until its nice and toasty. I'm in the philippines so installing the choke as a functioning component seems ridiculous. I have tried manually operating the manual choke to see if it helps, but it makes ZERO difference to the issue when cold. Float level is perfect, when fuel bowl cover is opened, the fuel level is at the step just as the factory suggests, and this also gives the best idle for me incidentally. I seriously think my idle jet pickup orifice is too small. The orifice is so frikn small, I can only just see through it, but I can literally blow no air through it with my lungs. I did try running it with the idle jet/pickup tube unscrewed and just sitting in place in its hole, and it idled amazing as it let more fuel through, but my brain told me to screw it back in to save fuel, after all it was designed by engineers. I Just don't understand the point of having a jet up the top of this pickup tube, when that jets diameter is about 4 times bigger than the atomiser orifice at the bottom of the pickup tube. How is that a jet? its the opposite of a jet, its got less flow behind it to make any mixture accelerate through it, its decelerating through it. Doesn't make sense to me. Parrot, My PCV gets full of oil after one day of hard driving. I can't see the oil causing any problems tho, not untill it starts to become dirty. Its just clean runny oil, if anythign it should help my cause by plugging the idle air leak the PCV valve creates by design.

well see, this one is just shit, inside its just its metal on metal, the metal conical shaped plunger goes in and out against a metal washer, and that is the seat, in its most closed position, there is about a 0.05mm gap all around the face. It looks exactly like this but straight and not 90 degrees. http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/chl/PC285/image/3/ Its purring now. like a modern engine, no kicking or rocking around in the engine bay. Altho the mixture is set at 3 and a half turns still.

yeh the accel pump is too easy, know all about that one from my high school days in mechanical workshop!! Only teacher whoever taught me anything worth knowing! My trick is to stick the little stray from a can of degreaser into the orifice and spray it and watch where it comes out. I never saw anythign come out of the power jet hole though. probabyl because it chose the main primary jet as it was closer to the source of pressure. Now i might check that power jet is functioning properly. I did ponder over the idea of this jet last night, and started to get upset wiht myself for thinking that rod was just there to push that spring down with no other purpose haha.

Update,: I now realise that the reason its sucking so hard is because when i put my finer over it, I'm in effect extending the vacuum to beyond the spring and plunger and this is allowing the plunger to open fully. However, it still leaked too much air and affected the idle, especially when cold. So, I cut up a little piece of plastic drilled a hole in it, and made a sealed seat for the sliding plunger to seat up against.Putting my finger on the end still makes it click open and suck, albeit with less of a click.

I'm going to ask and answer my own question, and hope that someone with more knowledge can expand on my question and answer. My 4k idles ok, but the mixture screw does need to be about 4 turns out rather than the 2.5 as recommended at stock. There was no vacuum leak, but I today decided perhaps the PCV valve was dirty; allowing air through, not clogging it. Incidentally, the PCV valve on it seems to be some sort of plastic knock off 'ONE SIZE FITS ALL' type. I pull out the PCV valve from the rocker cover and at idle my finger is pulled to it like a freight train pulling a 100 carts of ore. When I put my finger on it, it purrs like it should. So I'm going to assume this PCV valve is not appropriate. I've taken it apart and it is functioning as it should, it has 2 springs, and the suction does pull the piston barrel thing back into the housing as far as it can. However it really leaks lilke a sieve when in this tightly closed position. Anyone know of a part number or a picture of what the original looks like?