rebuilder86

Heater hose blew..... 9 months sounds like they didn't re-torque your head mate. No vacuum leaks anywhere? any hissing? idling at 2000 RPM should reveal some hissing sound from any air leak.

so over the last few days ive learnt a few things: 1. A compression compression test doesn't indicate anywhere near the correct figures until after about 10 seconds of cranking over, it builds up a few PSI at a time. so over the years I've probably rebuilt many motors that i haven't really needed to haha.... After doing the test properly, I can now say I have 150 PSI, see pic. 2. Unscrewing the idle pickup tube and slow jet assembly a little bit to compensate for an idle fuel supply problem is making the issue worse, as it is creating space for fuel to get through the thread when under high vacuum scenarios. With the jet assembly screwed in tight, the issue is still there but a little less prominent, but then there is no chance of a smooth idle. So now I'm suspecting an internal carburettor vacuum leak which is forcing me to open the idle fuel circuit up beyond its designed capacity to get idle, and therefore is letting through so much fuel at high vacuum that the fuel is vaporizing at the outlet and then again at the exhaust valves to a nice combustible mixture. Therefore, in an effort to go back and address the idle issue, I have checked and tested the hot idle compensator seal, which lets is supposed to let air in through the bottom of the secondary venturi when hot, that is sealed nice and tight so can't be the cause of the lack of idle at cold. Ill give that a tick. The Idle air bleeds are all standard non-adjustable bleeds and I can't see them being incorrectly designed, so I'm goign to give that a tick. I've also checked the sealing faces of the power piston in the fuel cover, it seems pretty damn good also, so I give that a tick. Now, the secondary throttle plate, this seems like a pretty good place to let unwanted air into the plenum. So I thought why don't I block the secondary venturi off with some duct tape over the inlet. TADAAA, Engine wouldn't start, wouldn't idle, blew lots of smoke and wouldn't run. alarm bells ringing, it shoudl only be idling and running on the primary side so why did the duct tap affect it. So I took the carby off, and had a look. Blew into it and couldn't blow any air, and it looks like the plate is original untouched and is sealing very well, but then i notice just how large a hole the hot air compensator outlet is. So I drew my attention back to the hot air idle compensator. Took the damn thing out of the carb, jammed sum rubber into the outlet in place of the bimetallic spring valve assembly, opened the idle speed screw a fraction, put the idle mix screw back to stock, put it all back together, started it, and what do you know, an idle at a mixture setting of 2 turns. This is the first time I have successfully had an idle at factory settings. Will be interesting to see if I need the hot idle compensator. I don't care if she runs a bit rich when hot, that is better than throwing air down the wrong venturi and having the idle fuel circuit just throwing in massive non-burnable droplets of fuel to get the right mixture!!! STILL BANGS AND POPS ON DECELERATION THO!

Sorry to div up an old thread but i was reading this and thought of 2 things, all valves locked up, and a cracked compression ring. Which was it?

Yeh i think ive come to the conclusion that this is a 4ku and not just a mix n match of parts. Just found some photos of the rebuild and noticed the head face comes to a point between the valves just as seen on google image search of dish piston heads

i had a wrecked mazda 3 sit in my garage for 8 years. After 6 years of not running I started it on the fuel that it had before the crash and it purred fine for an hour. Fuel takes a long time to go off.

Nah that wont work, if it opens up just because its down at 1000 rpm it could be opening when i am flooring it from slow walking pace in 2nd. This is not a KE anything, its a stainlesss steel flindstones mobile. I came to rollaclub because all these stainless steel jeepneys are fitted with surplus ex corolla engines (4k) that were shipped here after the war when the filipinos realised they wanted jeeps like the Amerikanos! No idea why pistons are dished. Most likely because the engine was rebuilt by a stupid filipino who beleives it was better. These people really are the least inteligent race on earth. Intelect is missing from their culture. Probably the wrong head for the dished pistons too.

Hang on i got the impression this car just being started and trying to get the engine running propperly, not out on the road, acceleration and deceleration hasnt even been achieved yet right??? I think surging he is talking about is something else.

sorry i never saw page 2 of this, altezza is already onto it!

hmm, I'm not sure what you mean by fuel surging. The fact that the pump is new, is enough to tell me to stop worrying about the pump. If it runs now, and its new, its ok. Perhaps perform a fuel rail pressure test just to be sure. What sort of fuel pressure regulator does this engine use?? Harry can you tell me if the fuel pressure regulator has a vacuum hose coming off it, or just 2 fuel hoses? nonetheless, further with relation to the fuel pressure regulator, you may have the hoses backwards and might be trying to pump fuel into the backside of the regulator, which will successfully fill the pressure side of it and as son as your run the engine that pressure will be let go and it will die. Could be the problem.

Hey altezza Is 120 shit compression? this is not a race engine :P Of course it doesnt diesel on, thats not why I installed the solenoid, I installed the solenoid and switch purely for the purpose of disabling the idle circuit on overrun. Not sure why our telling me to not run the solenoid circuit. I just today drove across the island to the city, and sure as hell, when i get to a downhill , I press the idle fuel cut off switch that I created, the result is a nice quite smooth ride down the hill with nota single pop. altho its pretty annoying holding in a momentary button for a 3 minute downhill run haha. SO in short, its definitely fuel coming through the idle circuit on overrun.

so I just took a drive to the local parts store, to look for long reach plugs of course unsuccessfully...... "ONLY FOR SUZUKI MULTICAB SIR!!" Anyway, on the way I was playing with the switch, and like I guessed, it makes no performance difference when under load, so a vacuum operated switch where the solenoid electrical circuit is only closed (fuel allowed through) during 19-20 inches of manifold vacuum is the answer. I will have to wait till I get back to Aus for something like this... ebay all the way. (postal service takes half a year in this developing country) Ill probably need 2 vacuum switches, one to open the circuit when vacuum is very high (over 21 inches vacuum) and one to open the circuit when low (less than 19 inches). That will keep the valve closed for all operating conditions other than idle. I should have been a carby engineer.

hey banjo, good to hear from you dood. I never leave home without a compression tester. I bought one from Australia purely for this very reason. Yeh ive done compression tests, before and after my engine rebuild. before was 110 even on all 4, now after rebuild (new rings and a good bush-style valve grind, ask me about that please) it 120 even across al 4. A bit of oil takes it up to 125 ish. The bores are a bit polished, I wasn't game to take to them with sandpaper, and there is no chance of getting a hone on this island. Seems to be sealing well. I was getting black soot on all plugs before I discovered the stupid fuel jets where installed vice versa! haha. Its now hallway nice n dry and just a bit of carbon and some poo brown. Bit of browning of any of the insulator tips tho. I suspect this is due to the shit fuel in the Philippines. I even filled up here on the cheapest unleaded at a local shell, and found pure evidence of fuel additives, obviously used to bring an inadequate fuel up to RON requirements. Red Brick dust on all spark plugs after that refill. The picture shows the conditions I have right now. Spark plugs are probably about 5,000 kms old at a guess. I think the spark plugs look good. The picture of the compression also shows how as I am cranking the engine over, fuel is gradually sealing the rings and the compression is going up as I move from cylinder one to 4 ( i couldn't be assed disconnecting the idle solenoid for this test.). Also remember these are dished pistons so 120 is ʞ©$ɟing amazing. Hey Little red, I wasnt shouting haha. I just saw you were a moderator, and worried that the advice had to be corrected as this is a forum which someone may stumble across and take the wrong information as gospel form your mouth.

I've just had more of a think about it, it may simply be doing this because there is no load on the engine. No load on the engine means the manifold vacuum stays high, and will suck lots of fuel through idle circuit. So the carb is designed with the fact in mind that people don't usually just pointlessly rev the engine out of gear..... well, not with any regard for fuel economy anyway. I think if I take it for a drive and give it some stick, and block the idle circuit it should be fine as the throttle plate would be open so much that the suction and venturi over the idle port and T-slot would be minimal. I'll let you know my findings.

ok, definitely just put the timing to 10 BTDC and leave it there. Set and forget. It can not be wrong unless somethign in the distributor is loose and throwing itself around when turning. (advance springs, rotor head, reluctor, bearings etc) Take the main high tension lead from the coil, and rest it up against a part of the engine with the metal about 3 mm away from the nearest metal grounding point. Don't hold the high tension lead while you do this next step, it will really piss you off, make sure it is wedged somewhere where it can't move and will maintain this ~3mm gap. Have someone crank the engine and watch the spark that jumps from the lead to the ground point. It should be nice and bright, ideally blue. If it is, then you have good ignition and can move on to other things. Next would be to actually pull an injector out and try start the car with an injector spraying fuel all over your garage. Its fkn dodgy, but it answers the question, am I actually getting fuel. The fact you had the engine running shity previously suggests something temperamental, perhaps you've simply run out of fuel hah. has the fuel tank been sitting open? Or maybe the fuel pump is not turning on at all. All this will be evident if you just try that simple yet dangerous trick. Please make sure you have the high tension lead securely fastened again when you do this. better yet, disable the coil for this test, unplug it and make sure no wires are hanging close to metal. If all is fine and you have fuel, suspect your camshaft positions in relation to the crankshaft. You can miraculously start and engine that is off a tooth or two and have it run like a pig, if you have a good starter motor and a good battery and good harness and some start ya bastard. Possibly this is how you got it running in the past if this is the underlying issue. Leme know how all these test go, and please don't die.

Little red Start with the basics like a hella good carby clean, adjust your idle mixtures and clean out the bowl. Thanks but I have the carb 100% clean. its been rebuilt, taken apart, completely clean. So cutting the solenoid while the car is on is just going to stop you filling the float bowl Fuel cut solenoid does not stop fuel coming through to the float bowl, it stops it going to the idle circuit from the fuel bowl. The fuel bowl is not affected by the solenoid. and make it run lean and pop as it dries up, backfire etc which are usually the sounds of lean running conditions. For yours and everyone's information, 'Lean popping' happens on acceleration, not deceleration high vacuum conditions and is the burning of fuel which is otherwise needed in the combustion chamber. Popping on deceleration is a unwanted and unneeded fuel vapour getting into the exhaust and meeting with fresh air and igniting. My post is about decelerating popping, also known as run on popping. Its effecting high rpm running because it doesn't just work at idle, it works on the fuel supply as a whole. I think you are mistaking fuel cut solenoid with the float valve. Fuel cut solenoid is only to stop fuel coming through when the car is switched off (dieseling on). yes, well i'm using it switched, to stop fuel coming through the idle circuit in high vacuum situations to test why I'm getting so much popping on deceleration, I know what its for :P I think maybe you have missread or not read all my posts. You're looking around corners when you should be looking straight ahead. Crackling and popping like I said is more than likely a sign of lean conditions more than likely caused by incomplete combustion so if I was you Id be asking why is the car not burning all the fuel and passing some to exhaust. Nah I'm a very clever straight forward thinking guy. I do not have a combustion problem causing the cracking. I have too much fuel. You would be experiencing bad mileage if this is the issue also. Yepo, haven't tested it in a while, but last time I did the full tank to full tank test, i got close to 13 L/100 ks ( a corolla gets somewhere close to 6), but have since found the primary jet and secondary jet had been switched by some ʞ©$ɟtard, that is now better and it appears by eye looking at the fuel to have made the thing use us half as much fuel. If you want to see how it goes with the correct plugs and coil that would be best. You may just not be able to ignite the whole mixture with a weak spark and the short plugs. This would be exacerbated at times when the motor has little access to air like off throttle as the charge entering is coming comparatively slow and with little turbulence compared to when the throttle is open and able to let in enough air to get a better vaporised mixture. I'm kinda guessing based off your experiments but you cannot expect it to run great with the wrong coil and the wrong plugs. This is exactly what i needed to hear. You just made me think more clearly about the bigger issue, when its rich (acceleration) its burning fast and burning it all, when its lean, the problem is being amplified. Good point. However, on throttle closed high speed deceleration engine braking, you don't want combustion, you are trying to starve the engine of air. There shouldn't be much mixture to burn theoretically. Why would I want to burn fuel. If you look at any EFI car, the injectors stop injecting in this situation. Sure this is a carby and is ddifferent, but my point is the whole subject of making sure you have complete combustion is for load applied situations. Its not clever to simply replace ignition parts just to ignite fuel to stop it burning in the exhaust on deceleration. It would be clever to replace those parts if it was causing a power issue. If I replaced those ignition parts to solve this problem, I would be thinking to myself, "AHH THERE WE GO, I BURNT THAT WASTE OF FUEL INSIDE THE ENGINE INSTEAD OF LETTING IT BURN IN MY EXHAUST. " It wasn't being used in the first place,, it was a nuisance while trying to decelerate with the throttle closed. I demanded no fuel.. I hope I'm making sense.

no not faulty, however I have been discussing in another thread how it is not the ideal coil for this setup. Its a 3.8 ohm coil designed more for a points type ignition, when I am actually using a 5k internal igniter reluctor distributor which requires a lower resistance coil for optimum spark. Perhaps this plus the fact I have dished pistons and cannot find the long reach plugs here in this stupid country, both adding up to poor combustion. You could have a point. however... an update. Believe it or not, I have just put in a momentary switch on the gear stick which allows me to close the idle fuel solenoid from within the car whenever I like. Interestingly, and kind of disappointingly, this has immediately made it clear that the idle circuit is injecting fuel all the way up to about 5000 RPM, as when I rev the shit out of it, and hit this button to close the idle circuit, there is a very noticeable drop in revs and some misfiring. This indicates the carb requires the idle circuit to run at high power up in the high RPM. that is shit house. Idle circuits are suppose to be for idle. :( My fuel is pouring in through the idle circuit all the time :( I would love to know if this is normal operating behaviour for a stock 3k/4k carb, or if I have some strange issue whereby the carb requires more fuel due to starvation of fuel to the primary venturi, and its getting it from my 'wound up 4 turns' idle mixture screw. ʞ©$ɟ sake, more problems.

no, should be counter-clockwise. as in before TDC. Are you looking at the timing marks on the crankshaft pulley with a timing light for these figures? If not, you should be.

sweet. I wonder if I should bite the bullet and get new springs. don't really have much money, tempted to try devise some 'heath robinson' device to use as a shim to jam under them all and give them a bit more life haha.

Ive just realised, you have been stating negative (-) timing numbers the whole time. This is your problem. It should be positive 12 ish. Or perhaps you are simply using the '-' symbol when you should be using the '~' symbol???

I guess I could just stick one of these in and set it to maximum vacuum, normally closed. Installed inline to the fuel solenoid. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Adjustable-Universal-Vacuum-switch-6-24-inHG-lockup-700r4-2004r-350c-superior-/331667328971

also, is there a tension difference between an exhaust spring and an inlet spring? its possible that I cocked up and mixed some around when I did a 'head-on' valve stem seal replacement. In my defence, if i did cock up, its because i was in the middle of the jungle, with no tools, not even a spring compressor. I used zipties, my shoes, and a hammer and magnet. Ill let you imagine how that was performed.

I live on a very hilly island. When i cross the island, going downhill in 3rd gear high vacuum, throttle fully closed, I get the old popping and gurgling out the exhaust. I have i think, eliminated 2 exhaust leaks which i though were the problem, according to many internet armchari experts who say it is BECAUSE of an exhaust leak. My brain tells me if there is un-burnt fuel in the exhaust, then there is a problem with fuel getting into the exhaust, not air getting into the exhaust. The air leak is just doing me the favour of showing me that there is fuel getting in by helping it ignite nie n loudly. This sound is not good, not like going to watch a subaru to a sick drift in the rally, more like a sad old motor. A couple of points: I have installed an idle fuel cut solenoid in place of the BOLT which was in its place originally and simply wired it up to the coil so that it opens when car is on. When I go down a hill and get these pops i turn the key off and the pops immediately stop. This can not be because of the fuel pump stopping (electric fuel pump in this car) because there is still fuel in the bowl. Its stopping because i am blocking the idle circuit, which is under tremendous vacuum from the high vacuum being creating with closed throttle high RPM. I am yet to isolate the effect of closing this solenoid but I'm almost certain it will stop the popping. I also have done the paper up against the exhaust pipe test, and sure as hell every now and then at idle the paper sucks back to the pipe and leaves an imprint of the black soot ring on the paper. This indicates sticking valves or sad springs. The engine is pretty old, no idea of its kms, as the car is made from spare parts and the dash is from something random. I'm going to say the springs are old and worn. This would also be giving me shit power above 5k rpm, however I'm not getting any misfiring at any time except idle. I'm wondering if this shit springs issue could also be allowing the exhaust valves to get sucked open in this high overrun scenario. This would be a good source of fresh air to ignite this unburnt fuel coming from the idle circuit. Question 1. Is that possible, that the valves could get sucked open against spring pressure?? Question 2. Has anyone installed any kind of high manifold vacuum operated switch to close the idle circuit on overrun? I want to do this. At the moment it looks like I'm going to need some sort of switch on the gearstick to momentarily open the solenoid circuit to close the solenoid while I'm going down hills haha.

harry, how technically minded are you? I ask because an honest answer will help us construct our replies to get your motor up and running. Have you personally had this motor running in the past? Are you sure you have the plug leads in the right firing order, 1,3,4,2.

sweet, thought as much but just wanted to make sure. Thank you heaps.

excellent, thank you GJM, that clears it up. Just did some research and there's even a a sheet with the part numbers and resistance values for this number and all others.. overrated: http://apps.bosch.com.au/AAExtranet_TechSearch/docs/GeneralInformation/TCoilspecs.pdf Your post here in April 2014 had all the answers i needed. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/69409-coils-for-k-motors/ At only 1.1 ohms, will this run on straight 12 volts without a ballast? your April 2014 post doesn't clarify that.