rebuilder86

yes as the revs come down to about 1500 ish, the manifold is is closer to a standard 20 inches of vacuum so the switch flicks back to close the electrical circuit (let electricity through, let fuel through). This is if i set the switch to activate at about 23 inches. As soon as u touch the throttle the vacuum is decreased dramatically so the solenoid its immediately re energized. however it take about half a second for the fuel to get sucked through at about 1000 rpm so you don't wanna engine brake down past 1200 ish. Saving 1.5 l of fuel per 100 ks is great!

yes they are terrible, but be aware driving here involves slamming on the break every 50 m to avoid children trying to die, and tricylces driving at 30 km/h. you never get beyond 60 kph on even the most major roads, When I'm back in aus, i get afraid driving at 100 kph because I'm not used to it. But still, if any of you with your well maintained vechicles brought them here they would be a lot better than this. The air that this poor motor has had to ingest in its life is probabyl the biggest issue. The islands that make up this country are magnetic, so the dust that is in the air is magnetic. So vehicles here are ʞ©$ɟed adn thats the primary reason for the polution in this country in my opinion. That and the understanding of mechanics here as to the purpose of honing a cylinder. They believe it is best to be as shiny and smoooth as possible!! MONKEYS.. absolute MONKEYS, but what more could one expect from a country that elects a boxer who has had his head beaten in all his life; as a senator!!

what do you mean by on and off?? I'm not sure what you mean.

Can i interrupt and give some insight into the 3k carb. I run a 4k_U engine with 5k electronic dizzy and coil, and am lucky to get 12.5L / 100ks highway in my 1 tonne chunk of steel jungle made jeep here in Cebu phi;lippines, rated the worlds worst place to own and drive a vehicle. The most significant improvements i have made is opening up the slow jet with an angle grinder to the side of it about 1 mm from the end orifice, adn then compensating for that with turning the idle mixture screw about 30 degrees in from stock position (1..5 turns). Before i did this it was about 15l / 100ks. The second most significant improvement was by inventing a vacuum operated momentary switch between the carby fuel cut solenoid and its power supply, so that when engine is operating with manifold pressure of 23 inches of mercury suction or more, it opens the circuit and cuts fuel to the engine for engine braking scenarios or down hill coasting in 2-3rd gear. This stops fuel being sucked through the slow jet and being wasted and causign popping and gurgling during these high vacuum scecnarios where power is not being demanded. This took it down from abou 13.8 to 12.5L / 100ks

yes i also have an oil filter without a non return valve. At the beginning of the day, i remove the spark plugs and crank the engine over to get things lubed up, it helps a lot. This thicker oil has definitely helped a lot.

ahh i see. altezza, i do a lot of driving slowly over rocky mountainous roads nand through rivers to get to the main highway, but indecently it never gives a hot reading when doing so. only when i get to the highway and start pushing it overtaking tricycles and multicabs does it start to get hot. Update: I just took the radiator out and found every single tube in the radiator clogged with lime haha. SO i put the radiator on the ground and filled it with hydrochloric acid. and flushed it out. Also, just put in some thick 20w-50 mineral oil and it seems to have stopped banging. the sounds was more like pinging at idle, and only happened once hot. sigh, i guess thta means i have ot drop the sump n do the big ends at some point. I'm getting too old for this shite.

no, its spot on, but why would you ask that just out of interest?

yeh these engines are notorious for idling a bit sad when cold. some pretty sharp turns the air has to make into the intake manifold make it a sad evern during cold starts. The better you can get fuel atomizing from the idle port, the better the cold start idle will be. some carbies have a system which looks at the coolant temp and mucks with the mixture to richen it up when cold. some have the oposite, an air valve which lets in more air (leans the mixture) when hot. i imagine yours has the latter. Check that is propperly sealing when seated. Its known as the hot idle compensator. If leaking (common) it can cause a vacuum leak undetectable outside the carbie.

don't know what carbie you have, but that really does sound like a carburettion issue. Does ur carbie have a power piston valve? not an accelerator pump but a 3rds jet for power which is vacuum piston controlled? If so, the air bleed for that could be blocked or the piston and walls itself could be worn, reducing pressure in the float bowl on acceleration restricting fuel supply to the jets., something no carby repair kit will give you. I've experience this myself and the solution was to simply drill out the air bleed for the power piston circuit. turns out its not simple/.

Been a while since ive posted on these forums. My old 4k engine (not in a corolla) is giving me some scary noises and i wanted to consult with my friends to check the sanity of my thoughts before i take action. I recently changed oil and went from a cheap mineral oil at about 10W-30 (at a guess) to a mid price range synthetic 10w-40. The cheap mineral oil worked well, however..... Since that oil change i am now getting something which sounds to me like piston slap, similar to what i used to get when i owned a subaru outback; notorious for their piston slapping. in this instance it only happens once the engine has warmed up properly and everything is nice and hot. (including the oil which reduces its viscosity). I suspect piston slap as a result of slightly worn out old main bearings and probably big end bearings too, which might be letting out the hot, thinned out, slippery, synthetic oil and reducing the pressure so much that it now doesn't have enough pressure to reach the pistons at the volume required to create adequate cushioning and lubrication. The whole world of mechanics would try to tell me piston slap only occurs when the engine is cold, but what if piston slap is occurring because of lack of lubrication rather than a bore clearance issue?? I am also getting a slightly hotter than usual running condition according to the heat gauge, just below red area when going up hills or on a stinking hot day. However I'm not convinced its truly getting hot as when i turn the ignition key off and on again the gauge resets to the middle normal operating range faster than that amount of heat could possibly dissipate. but this could be an indication of improper lubrication of the cylinder walls leading to severe friction and thus heat. anyone have any insight or thoughts that might help my brain think clearer??

these symptoms all sound like a pooly callibrated hot idle compensator valve... does this carby have one of those?

can you explain, did you mean fuel was dripping out the vent into the venturi, or dripping out the main jet while at idle?

not sure of your particular setup, but if a fairly standard carb is in use, I would advise against it, as the carby requires a level surface or the fuel level will be too low in the primary throat. Then again you may have a completely different setup and not have this problem.

bugger me 50 bucks. found a bosch GB820 for 20 bucks instead!! thanks but!

Ok so, overseas, my toyota 4k motor had a 5k dizzy with internal ignitor. I remember it well Here in oz, my farm corolla has a 4k points dizzy (bosch brand) and I'm sure the cap is bigger. Can somoen clarify and verify that for me? These 4k dizzy caps online look like they are all for the smaller type, and I'm struggling to actually find any proof or evidence of other 4k-C motors having this same larger points dizzy. Its the type with the separate clamp bit which holds it in place. It has no wires coming out of it, jus ta terminal for the coil to attach to. Perhaps its not really a stock 4k-c dizzy. Help anyone. I can not get you a part number, its at the farm, some distance away.

Most beautiful hearted people on earth, but when it comes to business, its just not in their psyche yet. Well, not the way we think of business anyway. 2 dollars an hour is a shit-ton of money there. The Average wage equates to 1.70 at current exchange rates. Most of the poor souls have no hope of a better life unless they find a foreigner partner. For reference, their equivalent of Macdonalds, "Jolibee" (soon to be opened in Australia for the Filipino population making oz home), the average persons meal there is about 90 peso, and the days wage is about 450 pesos, at 33 peso to the dollars that's 13 dollars a day for 8 hours work. So their take away feed is about 20 percent of the days pay, kind of similar to ours, however anything considered a luxury, like a computer or motor vehicle, not a chance, that's priced for a foreigner. Corruption is evident everywhere, every corner, every policeman, every government office... Its simply outrages.

Drain and refill will likely dislodge stuff built up in the chambers surrounding the cylinders and put it straight into the radiator. I always fix this issue by replacing the radiator with a piece of pvc pipe , removing the thermostat (don't worry about gasket for this bit) and running flush through the engine twice for about 5 minutes each (no more than 5 minutes without a half hour break to cool back down) before back-flushing the radiator separately out of the vehicle. Then put a new thermostat housing gasket in, check the thermostat in a pot on the stove and stick it back in. Only then is it worth using coolant.

NICE!

yeh number one didn't work. i came to the conclusion the tachometer gauge itself is just knackered. i'm in oz now and got a stupid drifto aftermarket gauge with shift light which I'm gonna take back to the Philippines with me! :)

sometimes the actual points plastic rubbing bit that rubs around the shaft as the shaft turns, wears out and u start conducting electricity through that!! That's happened to me before in a really shit ford econovan.

engine earth wire is probably shot or corroded. See if u get a spark across to the battery negative instead of to the dizzy.

hang on, the oil cap shouldn't blow off. the threads on the cap are probably just toast. the pcv hose should blow off before the oil cap. Unless u really mean the dipstick.

hey mate. You say your putting it down to the idle jet / idle circuit.... are you certain that is the issue? it is the most likely thing yes but there are other things that can stop the idle circuit from delivery fuel other than the idle circuit itself. A vacuum leak of 2 inches of mercury is enough to stop the stock 4k carb from delivering any fuel through its 0.5mm orifice, with standard idle air corrector jets. (tested and proven by myself) In other words, pretty much any vacuum leak at all, will stop it from idling. Those who disagree or other sources of information on the internet are running an aftermarket webber or similar. This stock carb relies heavily on a perfect suction to pull fuel through through the very small idle jet against the relatively large air correctors, (remember there are 2 of them to compete against). Some will argue that a vacuum leak will increase revs, i have found it simply stops the idle circuit from delivering fuel. In short, with a working fule filter, in my experience it is more probable that the fault is in the 'suction of' rather than 'supply of' fuel to the circuit. One thing to attempt first is backing out the idle mixture screw exactly one turn from where it currently is. if this improves the idle situation, then ur issue is in a vacuum leak as described above. If not, consider taking the float bowl cover off and spraying carby cleaner down each and every hole u can find. The float bowl cover gasket is pretty forgiving and shouldnt need to be replaced once you open it up. Just be careful when removing the bowl cover that the float pin doesnt fall out, keep it horizontal.

if u are stills trugling to find this, i can tell you suzuki have a fuel level sender with the exact same setup as the toyota 3-110 ohm sender. Its installed in suzuki multicabs and Toyota liteaces.

the bang (backfire) could also simply have jammed the PCV valve open, this causes a large vacuum leak which makes the idle circuit in the carb inoperative. try simply plugging the pcv valve tube for now and see it it idles.