rebuilder86

dave, i got half way to working that out in my string of 4 hopeless posts but gave up.... Slo, i could, but I'm currently in Philippines where postage doesnt exist and if i were to get it delivered via any form of courier the ETA would be over a year. i am not kidding. :( i bought this one with me from Aus and it was about 2.50 on ebay.

no, i think you'r pdf table is wrong. sorry now I'm ʞ©$ɟing confused. HG is used as a positive measurement increasing with pressure, and a vacuum gauge simply reads the same in negative, away under 0. So your figures make sense, but the conversion to hg mercury is complex and that was my fault. your table pdf shows inches of mercury going up with corresponding pascals going down... huh?

NO, google units converted is wrong haha. And your figures are sound my appologies!

or are you turboed litle red?

i assure you there is sound logic in my question, perhaps I'm not asking the question clearly enough. Can anyone tell me what their 4k pulls in terms of manifold vacuum (not pressure), when under about 25 percent throttle in 2nd gear. it should be somewhere near 5-10 hg.

but little red, your figures are backwards to what I'm after. If it idles at 50 kpa (15 hg) on a vacuum gauge. then under load it should be less than 15 hg, less than 50 kpa. less vacuum, higher static pressure yeh, so maybe you are reading a manifold pressure gauge, which works differently, and reads the difference between pressure outside and pressure in the manifold. Thats not the same as a positive vacuum gauge reading which tells me simply the amount of vacuum. The point of the thread is i am trying to prove a point in another forum that accelerating brings the vacuum down significantly as any load, even a small load greatly changes the vacuum in the engine when the rpm is maintained.

either that or he conned you and the motor is damaged and he just told you it was leaking.

this is most odd then Is it possible for a long bolt for that plate to go through too far and lock up the valvespring?

bugger, i think u messed up the timing or the valvetrain. did you just simply remove the head? or was it a rebuild of mostly everything? If you simply removed the head, check that when you put the valvetrain back on that the pushrods have seated properly in the lifters, and i hope you didnt leave something in a cylinder??

thats nice! haha sorry it just seemed like a statement more than a request for help haha. you want assistance :P WELCOME. When you say locks, do you mean the starter literally jams to a stop? if so does it then do that again when you try again, or do you have to manually turn the crankshaft back the other way by hand? Is this a new motor for you? have you had it running yourself? or is this something you've owned for a long time and has just suddenly started showing this problem?

i know it sounds like a stupid question, but the truth is, when i last did the test, there was not much difference between gentle acceleration, and hard acceleration. on the vac gauge. Because load makes such a huge difference on a vacuum gauge it overrules current speed and throttle position by a-lot in the equation it is down somewhere about 5 or 10 hg i just can't remember which. I can not access a new one, as i am in the jungle in the Philippines. Its ok i think this answered my question

no thats no help I'm affraid, a particular throttle opening vacuum will be different for varying loads. I need to know what it is when accelerating normally, not at a particular throttle position.

I'm wondering if anyone is equipped with a vac gauge and could test something for me, i smashed my 2 dollar handheld gauge when trying to perform a test. I would like to know what reading you get when accelerating from lets say, 20 to 50 kph with standard gentle driving. one might say, thats like asking how long is a piece of string, but in reality the difference between 2 people performing this test on very different cars should actually be pretty minimal.

when i was younger, ahem, and smoking some interesting things, i was very inventive and creative, and was trying to come up with theories to improve engine efficiencies! i can't remember exactly what i came up with, but imagine a std horizontally opposed 4 cylinder, like a subaru boxer or light single aircraft engine, imagine the crankshaft is not fixed to the block, but instead the block and crankshaft rotate around a wheel which turns itself to line up with the most efficient crank path of each firing cylinder. and then lines itself up with the opposite cylinder .. this is too complicated, i made it ou of lego technic and it made sense. i could only maek it wiht horizontally oppozed 4 cylinder setup. Damn i smoked too much back then.

i know its hard to take anything i say seriously now with this avatar, but i do think about these things in depth haha.

That offset Crankshaft theory sounds good, but what about the compression stroke the angle the con-rod would be pushing against the vertical line of the cylinder would be larger than if centred. i think centred is best.

and in the process ive found that the staked in u-joint i replaced 2 weeks ago is already failing and has about 1mm rotational play :( Now i have to fix it again. This will be the 4th attempt at getting it right, and the first atempt where i have been in control of everything, borrowing a welder from another expat living in the city. I have only jungle tools, a pencil grinding attachment on a powerdrill to flatten the staked parts inside the bearing cap holes, (no longer an issue as its now a simple "slide in" fit for the bearing caps) a 100mm grinder to cut the ʞ©$ɟing u-joint in half to get it out and cut most of the horrible welds off the outside of the yoke which hold the caps in a hammer to hit shit when i get angry. The twits that did it for me said this was aligned! I was watching them like a hawk tryign to explain to them that they need to weld one side and push the other side towards it while welding it, and they told me to step aside, while they successfully ʞ©$ɟ it up.

LOL this is the most interesting missdiagnosis by myself ive ever done. I started ujndoing the gearbox, the clutch hydralic slave, he speedo cable, then thoguht, i should probabyl remove the prop shaft before i go on, grabbed the prop shaft and it wobbled, alot. the ʞ©$ɟing bolts that hold it in were all loose! finger tight. not even finger tight, loose. I replaced the unreplaceable Ujoint in the propshaft for the second time 2 weeks ago, as the first monkey did a shit job, and I think the constant undoing and tightening of the propshaft ujoint bolts to the diff shaft have damaged the bolts and the hole thing was loose. Just ziptied it together and limped into town to get some bolts, its amazing how strong zip ties are!

yeh ive had some people in the past try to convince me that throwout bearings can make noise when clutch is released as it lightly touches the diaphragm springs. Horseshit. however they told me once replaced their issues where fixed. again, horseshit. I have no choice but to take the gearbox out and try to fix it. else, its stuck here.

I'm about to rip out the k40 from my car. Reason; today the car decided to start making a horrible noise when under load accelerating like a metal grinding noise in time with the engine. Clutch in, it goes away. sounds to me like a bearing in the transmission on the input shaft. I did hear a bit of bird chirping sound on the way back from a long trip the other day, only when changing down from 4th-3rd, or 3rd-2nd, only while the clutch was in the process of being a clutch. Now its a constant rumbling like a smashed up ball bearing. Anyone ever had this happen with these exact symptoms and find it was just the throw out bearing, or clutch press bearing, whatever you want to call it?

i just realised what you did with the name of this thread, LATERAL!! The bore and stroke are similar which makes me think this engine will be too...... what do the kids call it these days......ZIPPY, for an old girl. It must be high up power in the echo, the old 4k rolla was so good at making its power low. I think you would miss that. mind you, whos to say you don't intend on driving it around like a mad man. RARHH RAAAAARH RAAAAAAAAAAAA

btw the back door that you can see in that picture is actually 99% made out of space invader foam and bog, held together with paint!

hahaah. hes not the one who rolled it, it was another guy, who looked really white afterwards. did you know that a corolla with a stock carb will run fine immediately after being upside down with oil all through the carb. Also, i thought it was a good reason to finally add myself an avatar..

Did you go out of yoru way to take a photo of that and then add the arrow for ME??? well, after my trip to the shops juts now, I'm just about fed up hahah. the thought of moving fuel pumps, covering holes, is just so far away now.... read on to see why I bought 4 new NGK long projections, which didnt fix the stumbling issue, I'm almost certain its a sticking valve. but it did make things a bit smoother..... Until i pulled out of the shops and there was an almighty grinding noise when i accelerated, now the ʞ©$ɟING TRANSMISSION IS ʞ©$ɟED! Clutch in it goes away if i'm insanely lucky its just a damaged throw out and or spigot bearing, but I'm not an idiot and i know how throw out bearings work, they make noise clutch when pressed in and they are engaged and working, (USUALLY) not when accelerating in gear ʞ©$ɟ cars.

what air intake hole on the filter?? you have a hole in your air filter?? super high flow air filter??