rebuilder86

well u see, the choke was useless to me as i have no choke lever, or any ability to source anything that would do the job, so i simply removed the choke flap from the choke shaft 2 years ago. it never helped the engine start or idle at cold. the only thing that helped was increasing the idle jet and idle hole via the idle mix screw. but my point is, it is working so well, that i don't understand why engineers felt the need to choke the airflow to get more fuel. also, dave, the air speeds up around the choke plate yes, but the choke plate is well above the primary venturi and completely out of the equation with the slow jet. it chokes the entire carby so that more suction, in the form of decreased static pressure, not as a reault of increased dynamic pressure, pulls more fuel, but with the throttle closed, this has next to no affect on the idle/slow jet. remove your carbies cold idle connection, and id almost bet, that if you had the need for choke; that is, the engine is cold enough for fuel to atomise on the manifold walls, the choke alone wont make the motor run propperly. its just the opening of the throttle plate that makes it run in my experience. not a conspiracy theory, its just a theory of mine that i have only so far been able to completely proove in my favour. perhaps if someone can show me their motor running better in a choked configuration without the throttle opened by that linkage.

been mucking around coz i was bored, its quite lonely here in the jungle. i have forever been stuck with a 3k carby on my 4k, which had to hav its idle (slow) jet cut with an angle grinder to allow enough fuel to flow for a decent idle, and also required that the idle mix screw be wound out one turn further than factory PLUS also needed a customized PCV valve which provided perfect seal and no leak at idle for it to run without mucking with the base idle speed. so i got to that point and realised that once hot, the engine would idle fine with the mixture screw back in abit, to half a turn from factory spec. so i decided i wanted economy and clean plugs and set the mixture to this lean condition and i was, up until now, living with the fact i had to rev the engine when cold to warm her up before going anywhere. this is very difficult when you don't have a handbrake and live on a hill in the jungle. so yesterday i decided to make a lever in the car which operates the idle mixrure screw from the drivers seat hahah. when cold, i push the lever forward to turn the screw anticlockwise half a turn, and then when its warmed up, i pull it back out and it idles slower and leaner where it should be. i feel carburettor cold starting systems shouldve been designed like this in the first place rather than choking the air intake and opening the throttle at the same time like all conventional chokes do. i think the convential choke plate does sweet fek all and everyone who uses one is being fooled by the throttle cold idle link. in effect, i am manually doing what EFI vehicles do, enriching the fuel for the warm up period.

jeesus christ and here i am thinkin I'm all clever workin on making my carburettor automatic variable mixture. this is just insane. total respect from me here, I'm impressed, i don't think i could bring myself to manufacturing all the parts to make this engine efi or electronic spark. just seems so difficult

nahh i think you need someone to come give you a hand. get someone round to help you, someone who is experienced and understands how to line it all up.

to add to all this, in my experience it works like this. bunnings is useless for automotive threads unless u are simply buying bolt and nut as a package or are dealing with a smaller size thread, for qhich only standard thread exists. auto threads are usually broken into 3 categories, fine metric . super fine metric and sometimes even UNF for older large 4WDs and commercials. you will find standard metric threads places that arent safety related like, carby - manifold bolts, door hinges, bodywork ( although most body bolts are too small for there to even be a fine pitch version) and sometimes mounting bolts in and around engine bay. anything related to steering, holding the drivedrain to the chassis or safety like seats and seatbelts, are usually extra fine or unc-unf, damn americans. everything else is usually the finer of the metric thread pitches available for the bolt diameter in question. i find myself picking up the thread taps from the "fine" side of my tap and die kit much more often than the std side. you can fine a list of these fine threads here. http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&title=All-You-Need-to-Know-About-Nuts-Bolts&A=112208

.hmm I'm highly embarrased i didnt know avout this. and i should be. if i were there id hump ur leg. i just sat up all night reading that from beginning to end. it has so many of the things i have been looking for but never found, eg, stock jet sizes for different carbs in different markets. think ill get my drill out today and put a bigger hole through my secondary :p

can you get a genuine toyota workshop manual for this thing?? i want one

and perhaps the reason no one else experiences this, is because i get the worlds worst automotive parts.

i used to do that, but never done it with this engine, although of all engines ive ever touched, this would be the one that would require it the most haha. i say that because of the size of the filter. i think i remember learning from someone not to run the coil without a place for the spark to go, or else it will just release the energy as heat into the coil body. I guess a couple of seconds couldn't possibly hurt it tho. I had a little bit more of a think about it yeswterday, perhaps the reason this bigger filter is priming quicker, is because there is more weight above the anti drain membrane on the inlet to hold the membrane sealeddown , and perhaps the old one didnt have enough weight to make a good seal. its honestly a 1-2 second oil pressure delay now with the new bigger one, and the old one of the exact same brand with the same single anti drain membrane but of smaller volume took about 8 seconds.

nah i stand by it. people get turned off by carbs because they look complicated. best to dive in and start with it. And who said its well functioning? haha Hes about to but one, it wont be off someone whos looked after it. itl be full of grime, and i would place a hefty bet that the carb will need attention and that the seller will have wound on the idle screw to hide a bad idle. I'm adamant of it, if its a stock motor that he buys he will be pulling it apart to clean it. You have to admit, these carbies are a bitch.

as for tools some of the most important for an old toyota are 1. impact screwdriver, required because all screws will be seized 2. multimeter with digital display 3. vacuum gauge, suggest just buying a chinese gauge on ebay and sticking a barb and hose on it, this will cost about 5 dollars 4. feeler gauge, no DIYer one ever sets valve clearances correctly on any engine that ive ever purchased. learn to do it propperly. also good for spark plug gap and contact points if you have a points distributor 5. some sort of book on the basics of old engines. i am sure haynes or gregories have a few

i say dive in head first and take apart the carb and clean and rebuild it. it should be the most understood part of the car but few younger folk know anything about them nowadays. it is where all the action happens and where most of the daily driver problems lie. if u attempt to learn about it by reading forums alone, without having taken one apart, you will un-learn, and understand less. that is my advice.

hah what do i do here,... the only sensible thing to do in this country. add to the overpopulation of course. full time sex with the missus, and part time engineering this 4k to last me my entire life to be honest. that mine would be carmen copper, a primarily copper mine with gold byproduct credits which the operators use as offset against the copper production costs to make themselves look better. the reason u can see it so clearly from the aeroplane is because; "the environment", in this country, to the people who have enough money to have any say, means sweet ʞ©$ɟ all. they just dig, dig and dig. the labour is so cheap that a pitshel for a similar grade of copper anywhere else in the world, would be narrower by half. all just for copper. luxuries are expensive to the locals. but there are more trucks per person here than any other populated place on earth, and for that reason, there is a market for stupidly cheap imported car parts which work on a mass throughput minimum profit margin system. being so close to the manufacturing hubs of china, japan, and thailand makes all car parts stupidly cheap here.

banjo, do u hust have a library of 4k pictures laying around?? haha I'm in the philippines, in cebu island, in the remote jungle and i go into the town of toledo for parts. The brand is VIC model c120. id say on an inverted motor, the anti drain valve is useless on its own, u need both in and outlet blocked when the engine is off. or is that not correct and the outlet side is restricted enough and above the filter to stop oil exiting? maybe all that is required is the anti drain valve and perhaps the old filter had a faulty anti drain valve which was why i was always waiting 5 seconds for preasure.

another update, i was a bit upset when i got back to the villagr and found the oil filter is bigger than the old one. but i checked the net and it is the listed part, allbeit bigger than the smaller newer one. however, for some reason, this one is filling up faster than the old one, judging by the almost immediate oil pressure I'm now getting on startup. I'm certain the new filter doesnt have both the intake and outlet valves, just the outer ring one which i believe is the inlet anti drain valve which all filters have. frikn wierd, but I'm not complaining, the filter cost 150 pesos, thats about 4 dollars.

ah ok i see. So, pressure relief valve, relieves pressure (oil) back into the sump. This is the one I am talking about. Bypass valve by-passes the filter of course but the oil continues on through the system to build pressure. this would usually be in the filter. That also clarifies what i suspected, that anyone shimming such a relief valve is doing there engine absolutely no good at all and is wasting a lot of effort and time and all instances of it giving any gains, posted anywhere on the interwebs really should be ignored. Interesting that my shitty gauge indicates over 100 PSI when cold now haha. Perhaps that might explain the oil that has forever been dripping from the gearbox mounting plate that i can't be bothered addressing.

ok, update, i found the earth strap from the engine to the chassis (well its actually just a 240 volt lighting wire, not an actual earth strap) had snapped and the only way the battery was earthed to the body was through the gearbox mounts and the radiator haha so after changing the oil, and reconnecting that earth, the apparent oil pressure is off the charts, above 100 PSI lol just for interest sake i undid that earth again and tested with the new oil, and it was much the same as before. so it turns out i probably never had an oil pressure issue, just ANOTHER electrical issue, which is something i face daily on this fun piece of jungle junk.

OOOOOHH! this sump bypass valve you speak of, is that not the one in the pump or are you definitely referring to one some filter companies design into the filter?

Well, I'm back overseas in my jungle hut with my beloved jeepy and the mighty 4k is still going strong. While in Perth, i got a cheap oil pressure gauge online, as i have no idiot light, or anything like that to warn me of something funny like a hole in my sump or a broken oil pump. This gauge really only indicates from 10-70 PSI and i would laugh at anyone who tried to use it to accurately measure oil pressure. However I trust the sender unit, so I'm just going to believe the readings it gives me within a ball park, lets say, within ~30-40 PSI. I stuck it in, and had the gauge sitting earthed on the stainless steel bonnet, started the engine and the thing took about 10 seconds to register any oil pressure then went up to about 40PSI as indicated on the gauge. ( i know that could be completely wrong, but lets use it for comparisons between old and fresh oil) "Sweet!" i said, but then i thought about that 10 seconds and was pissed off to remember that i forgot to buy a ryco oil filter with the anti drain. So i spent a day going around wasting my time looking for a filter with an anti drain valve, only to come back and get on the net and find in one of Banjos posts that the anti drain is only one of the required 2 check valves in an inverted oil filter for any non return system to be of any use. apparently the second valve is called "anti siphon". that makes no Fuc -king sense. siphoning isnt involved at all here. I did wonder how the it managed to stop both inlet and outlet from draining. Anyhow, my pressure is scaring me. I understand these motors are quite old, and pressures are generally low, and clearances are large, but after that first gauge test, after installing it really professionally (ziptied the gauge to the indicator stalk and just wound wires around the places they needed to go) it would never, ever, no matter how cold, start and idle above an indicated 20 PSI when cold. I have checked all connections and they are tight, so oil pressure is possibly much worse than it was when i first tested the gauge., or the gauge burnt out and changed sensitivity because its so shit and cheap. For now, I'm going to try sticking in some fresh oil, 20W-50 . Its frikn hot here, and the engine does run hot, and sometimes overheats when I try to drive over the hills. Perhaps this overheating is due to the oil thinning out so much due to gasoline dilution its just simply exiting at the pressure relief valve and then a piddle is leaking out the first journal. The oil dilution is probably now less of a problem going forwards. I used to have a rich condition which fowled all my plugs and all that extra fuel around would have easily made its way down past the rings. My question after all that dribble. Why do people shim their oil pressure relief valves, claiming that it increases oil pressure? My understanding is that it is spring loaded, which means, at a certain pressure (maximum alowed pressure) the spring is open at such a point that oil is allowed back into the sump. So wouldn't shimming this, simply be changing the maximum allowed oil pressure, not the maximum pressure at any given time? i think shimming this thing would simply increase the likelihood of blowing a main seal at startup when the oil is cold and pressure is close to this maximum allowed. At all other times, the oil pressure is so low this relief valve is out of the picture. Why do you all do it?

altezza, you will be glad to know i have had enough of that exact forum issue on many many forums, and I'm working on a little chrome plugin for forums, which makes sure u never loose long replies!! I was once so angry when that happened, i snapped my keyboard in half. you go to all the trouble of structuring a well thought out reply, editing ad making it understandable and then bang.

i bought one for my farm bush basher corolla. It works, sort of... the problems: The motor now sounds like a russian tractor the accelerator pump plunger is terrible and has completely failed for me after one use, but that may be because ours sits in a car which isnt run for periods of sometimes up to 8 months which leads to it drying out and shrinking. The bowl cover gasket that comes in it, will disintegrate the first time you open it, so don't open it. The ported vacuum is effectively useless and supplies next to no vacuum at any throttle position, so best run off manifold vacuum for spark advance. The good things: its cheap it works so long as you install it and drive it normally.

if u touch the points, (undo the screw even), the points themselves can move away from that perpendicular linear line i mentioned earlier, so by replacing the points u can cause the same thing. they're all ever so slightly different. timing must be set every time.

this is my terrible attempt to illustrate how points wear causes a change in timing. IN my diagram, u see the distance from lobe to the pivot point of the points, (and therfore the distance away from perpendicular to the actual rubbing block) changes as the points are allowed to wear away. U stick new points on after removing old points, without setting the timing, its likely to not start.

hmm that last point is interesting, thats different from what i learned flying choppers I learned that in an aeroplane with an EGT gauge, the best performance is achieved while leaning the mixture but stopping halfway to peak EGT. This is shown graphically on a typical horizontally opposed air cooled engine here https://aviation.stackexchange.com/questions/21466/what-appears-on-egt-gauge-if-the-mixture-is-rich-or-lean

as a side note, i can personally guarantee this, vacuum advance can never cause detonation in 4k. Upon acceleration, on this engine, the vacuum drops so far that the advance goes to 0 almost immediately.For this reason, ported vacuum is almost useless on this engine. Manifold vacuum is great because it allows the idle mixture to be right out at 1.5 turns where it belongs from factory. With mixture at 1.5 turns, and manifold vac running the advance, it should pur, so long as your slow jets are ok.