rebuilder86

here we go, iphone 4s is superior with sound quality. https://youtu.be/Mws2aA4gHnQ

hmm that audio is just so appaling. i jist tried an uncompressed attempt at 1080 p and it sounds like u are underwater when i play it back. damnit. really don't wanna pull the iphone out but thats what I'm doing now.

I think its this video compressor. (sunny burger video compressor) i can't upload straight videoa because I'm in the jungle on a 3g data connection where i pay for every GB and have an upload speed of about 0.1Mbps i just recorded some of the jeep but it still sounds terrible. the trebble is amplified and all other frequencies seem to be muted. here it is anywway. ignore the sound, its completely wrong. I'm not really much of a youtuber so microphone sound quality hasnt been my biggest purchasing decision when buying this phone.

haha nah its really not that loud, the microphone on thia phone pics up certain sounds and they overtake everything. ignore the audio haha. i just listened to it and yes i would see why u would say that. the engine is purring and quitet. it sounds terrible in the vid. maybe this oppo has a speech microphone only. maybe i should try another video of the good idle i have managed to get going for others to benchmark against... hang about. see i have too much spare time here. i don't work for 6 mths and get incredibly bored. the result is an obbsesive compulsive love for engineering haha.

now for the widely missunderstood pcv valve. I don't think ive seen a video like this on youtube and its about time someone did one. The important part from my video's description is the point at the end that the most blowby for a carburetted engine happens during coasting and decelerating. In these conditions, the valve is closed and isnt pulling out the excess blowby, giving the bad gasoline rich vapours more chance to settle into the oil and dilute it. During power scenarios, the rings are forced into their seats and seal propperly and the issue then comes during the transfer to the exhaust stroke where water vapour as a byproduct of combustion, gets forced past the rings while they are changing from bottom seat to top seat. This is where a crank vent, which is positively sucking is absolutely required. My oil is cheap junk. i cannot get nice oil like in australia with good anti foaming agents. so after a good hard drive, my oil filler cap looks like this (see attachment) Someone might get worried when they see this and blame the head gasket. the issue here is actually that the pcv system isnt strong enough to suck out all water vapour and the anti foaming agents are required for this reason. In these older engines, we need this particular additive because of the loose tollerances of the ring seats. a foaming agent helps the oil stay smooth so that the water is forced to evaporate. if it foams, the water gets stuck to the sticky parts in the rocker cover. Note that my oil is 100 percent water free when visually inspected after a full drain. I check it everytime out of fear of a warped head or failing head gasket. This shows the water is more of a problem in its vapouros state. My plans for this engine is to prototype a diesel vacuum pump and alternator assembly rom a diesel engine, mounted to my petrol engine without a PCV valve. I plan on taking the freah air supply hose and running it from a filtered inertial seperator like that used in a turbine engine seaplane, and avoid connecting it to the intake piping. (deceleration forces dirty vapours back the freah air line and all over ur throttle body and into ur fuel bowl vents down into ir float bowl.) i have found the perfect handheld vacuum cleaner for this part and am waiting for a cheap one to show up on ebay. The idea is to remove all moisture from air entering the crankcase so foaming is not an issue. I live ina. very humid environment. The vacuum pump running from the alternator will make the pcv system operate purely on RPM without relying on vacuum. this is a project for next year. https://youtu.be/2ECFT3yYhZw

so here ive put on youtube a highly compressed video of me revving the engine showing the coolant level changing in the top tank. in order for u to do this with a thermostat, u have to be brave and heat up the engine to open the thermostat then open the cap and follow my procedure. i suspect many people will die if they do this, so i take no responaibility to foolish cap opening incidents. use a rag over the cap and make sure the overflow hose is secured, prefferably into the overflow tank. my overflow tank is a water bottle with a hole in it... see. without this coolant has a one way trip out ur radiator back to nature. and ur tank must have liquid in it or else the steam just leaves as .....well, steam, toxic steam. youtube links.

YES thongs, if i use that word here they laugh because it means g string. yeh nah the jeep is looking pretty ragged these days. all maintenance goes into the engine and driveline and i do nothing on the body. its rusting apart unfortunately. Its nothing special, but it does now run on the smell of an oily rag.

here is my homemadr (jungle made) decel fuel cut system. i have achieved a saving of 30% on fuel. if u have a perfectly sealed exhaust system, u wont notice the problem, but the problem is still there and your paying for it. "So thank you leaky exhaust flange gasket for alerting me to the copious amounts of fuel that were being burnt after u." u can see the rpm activates awitxh hanging from that stainless steel support, which is powered by 12 volts that i stole from the posiative on the coil, and it gets its signal (pulse) from the negative. how convenient. then its just earthed to the body and turna on and off a relay which then supplies on or off 12 volts to the solenoid.for times that the rpm is above 1300, the rpm switch disconnecta the fuel solenoid and relies on whatever the vacuum swutch has to say about the aituation. the vacuum switch is the little thing wrapped in galv steel (a repair i made due to oil braking the plastic). it takes the 12 volts from the coil positive and lets it through to the fuel solenoid only if the vacuum is below 20 inches. less than 20 inches only occura during ANY gentle acceleration or harder acceleration. if the rpm activates awitch wasnt there to override the vacuum switch, the engine would pull vacuum all the way past idle on slowing down and stall out. the rpm switch forces the aolenoid open under 1300 rpm so its impossible to stall.

hey all. ive talked a lot in recent posts about certain things and thought i owed it to everyone to put some pics vids of my findings up here. everything here is on stock carburettor on a 4k-U block with dished pistons, and dry compression at about 150 PSI. firstly, spark plug reading . i used to have black plugs, which was a result of a rich mixture when coasting and seriously rich mixture on deceleration due to the idle circuit supplying an uncombustible overrich amount of fuel when the throttle is closed shut or nearly closed and manifold vacuum is high. This creates huge suction on the fuel from the slow jet and doesnt pull in any air at all really. The result is wasted fuel on deceleration, and poor fuel economy on coasting. to cobat this i invented a deceleration fuel cut system whereby fuel is cut by the idle solenoid (anti deiseling solenoid) when the following conditions are met. 1. manifold vacuum is above ~21 inches and 2. rpm is above 1200 this has cleaned everything up and i now have the nearly perfect plugs u can see in these pics. note that plug 3 (with my foot in background) has some oil carbon fouling, this is probably due to a poor rebuild where i had no access to reboring machine, nor a hone, so i used sandpaper to rough up the bores to seat the rings. the equipment needed for this decel cutoff system system is a robotics vacuum switch from ebay and an RPM activated switch from jaycar. toyota mention a similar type of system in their 2rz engine repair manual but i can find no information about the systems actual function. see attaches screenshot of repair manual diagnostics. under poor mileage they talk about this system. next post has vids of coolant burping while revving engine. edit: as it turns out its actually not my invention, but it appears manufacturers implemented its use only over 2200 rpm. this is no good for me, i get gurgling and popping in the exaust coasting/decelerating down the road at 1800 rpm in 3rd. https://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0900c15280047f86

here in the philippines is a nation full of every single used toyota 4k which ever ended up at a recycler or wrecker anywhere on earth. they are used in the rebirthing of public transport vehicles and in owner maintained flindstone type jeeps, like mine. u can find one for sale here, and have someone like myself have it put in what's called a balikbayan box and send it over on a shipping container. look up balikbayan box, best to use DHL and find something in manilla. a place to start is olx. here is a prume example at 15 tbousand pesos. thats 380 aud for an engine and gearbox. https://www.olx.ph/item/4k-engine-with-transmission-ID89EdZ.html?h=63186bfdda

i gotta feeling ur dads mate will be more help than us. being there in the flesh is much easier to work it out.

but it is also blaring at me that u touched the fuel pump then issues started. perhaps a good temporary way to check the fuel pump, is to park on a very steep hill overnight, or jack up the back of the car as high as you can overnight... Then the next day start her up and see if the gravity acting on the fuel head height has any impact. if so, chase up a new fuel pump. See my avatar pic for other ways to get fuel to the engine.!

blipping the gas is required on tehse old things, just to give it something to fire. i give it 2 quick pumps so the accelerator pump puts 2 big nice juicy squirts into the manifold, then fire it up. if u don't do that ur wasting valuable time heating up the starter for too long. u said initially it was idling find when warmed up, but almost stalling when cold. That sais to me u have dirt in the idle circuit in the carb, or have a slight vacuum leak. how do i know this? because when warmed up, a vacuum leak causes the idle circuit to run a bit lean, but the fuel that does get in atomises well because the manifold is hot and rpms increase simply because theres more air.. when cold, a vacuum leak causes the rpms to drop because the extra fuel required isnt being pulled in. Even with the choke on, it will hesitate. If this magically happened after an oil change, id be suspicious of the PCV valve or its hose to the manifold, or perhaps u knocked a vacuum advance tube off the carb or dizzy? does it have an EGR valve? check the hoses to that too.

hahha found the msds, yep its just ethelyn glocol. absolute tossers. wont take heat out of ur cylinders. water would be better. how about just doing what we r supposed to so and use it mixed with water. read this.hilarious. https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=1547065

gee thats funny, the technical specs for that stuff list the specific heat at 90 degrees and thermal conducivity at 90 degrees to be exactly the same as ethelyn glycol at 90 degrees. thats crap, it cannot transfer heat to the radiator. thats because it IS just ethelyn glycol. OH we got a famous person to advertise it. once again, The USA is the last place id turn to for engineering solutions.

sorry mate i can't watch it coz my net is too slow, but i hate jay leno more than anything so its ok haha waterless coolant hey.....

the internet is just full of wrong info. google "coolant expansion tank vs overflow" and the first hit which looks reputable because of googles view settings, is utter bullshit. he sais an overflow tank can't return coolant because the valve apring is shut. he simply doeant know about the vacuum valve in the middle of the cap. and he also doesnt know about what a true expansion tank is. that is, a takn which is connectes within the coolant flow and does actually contain air. these systems are only implemented on vehicles whos cooling systems are so large they don't boil, and rely on minimal metal to coolant contact inside the coolant passages to limit the effect of the colder coolant. these vehicles also require a different coolant. look at a vt commodore for example, it has the expa sion system and therefor must have a 50/50 mix. https://www.google.com.ph/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.gomog.com/allmorgan/TANKS.html&ved=0ahUKEwivgs3G3bLXAhUMu7wKHYrPB-oQFggxMAI&usg=AOvVaw00cCOgjJZYEM7a2JeomU6v

hahah. i had to come back here and put one piece of information to bed.. that 9 myths link, which i had stumbled upon aswell, to me is worth nothing just from that one point about filling up one inch under the cap. thats total utter garbage. i think the writer may have been taught something about expansion tank setups, and yes, on those the cap is in the expansion tank and the full level is half way up the tank. today, go to any new vehicle showroom, and any vehicle with the bonnet open and a cool engine, with a cap on a radiator. while no one is looking, open the radiator and see that the radiator is full to the brim. sorry i just want to make sure none of my fellow enthusiasts of this great engine get lead to introduce air into their pressurized systems because of an incorrect web article. google "fill cooalnt to brim or one inch" and read every forum. there are lots of people repeating this garbage but in every forum there is one person who understands and puts the argument to rest with an intellectual explanation of what air in the cooling system does.

thank u dave id like to quote ur comment about the outside temp making no difference on your high quality gauge to win an argument in another forum haha.

sorry for spamming. a bit more research. I'm going to say the official number is 100% ethelyn glycol is exactly 33% worse than water with relation to specific heat capacity. dave your figires are at ISA, std atmosphere and temp on a standard day. the cooling system is at pressure and is at 100 degrees. see page 33 https://www.google.com.ph/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.dow.com/webapps/lit/litorder.asp%3Ffilepath%3D/heattrans/pdfs/noreg/180-01190.pdf&ved=0ahUKEwjAl-fNmrHXAhWLj5QKHS_IB7QQFggwMAE&usg=AOvVaw2FzV2T4Vm7Gasb2iZTznOF ill stop now. getting obsessed. don't think anyone cares. hah

found the stuff was looking for, not the exact thing (thrsis) but it proves what u said to be true, that straight glycol is half as good as water at transfering heat. page 21 figure 9 https://www.google.com.ph/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.meglobal.biz/media/product_guides/MEGlobal_MEG.pdf&ved=0ahUKEwiSwIfOlLHXAhUBjpQKHZckC6QQFghHMAM&usg=AOvVaw2mwuF7aA0nVkHyPTzlaxzP however i wonder if preasure affects these figures, perhaps the thesis guy was right.

this isnt it, but its still pretty good and on topic. https://www.google.com.ph/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://durathermfluids.com/pdf/techpapers/pressure-boiling-point.pdf&ved=0ahUKEwiN7dWkjrHXAhUHsJQKHX2oB-MQFggoMAE&usg=AOvVaw0D0PEQDmdXyaVc07jpE-X7 and for a good explanation of the different tyoes of coolant, a and b, and the different colours, this is a great read from beginning to end. https://www.google.com.ph/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.penriteoil.com.au/assets/pdf/tech/Nov2015/Coolants.pdf&ved=0ahUKEwiN7dWkjrHXAhUHsJQKHX2oB-MQFgg-MAQ&usg=AOvVaw0xU4G4ppv75yBzPt2VKRaK on page 7 it shows the the tybe b products (just corrosion inhibitor) for old cars as mentioned before, which are vented, so glycol would be pointless as they are not pressurized because they are deaignes to run frikn cold. u know how u read in oil companies tech documents that nodern cars run hotter than older cars, its true and this is just one of the reasons why. older "classic" car engines where shite because cooling systems requires them to run cooler than optimal to keep the water available and not have it turn to steam.

rather than posting refferences to outside sources, I'm just blurting out insightful experience. I hope I'm not coming across as arrogant. however i will now have to find this pdf thing, because what u say about the specific heat capacity looks the goods and i am not at that level of nomenclature to understand those terms completely.

i say "it shows how bad straight water is" because if he ran 50/50 coolant/water, with the needle in the middle of the normal zone where it was during the event, the temp mustve been within engineered limits, but it still spilled it out. understand my point now? if it was 50 50, as engineers designed it, it wouldnt have boiled over. water is fine, so long as u can garuantee the cooling system is able to cope keeping the temp under 100 celcius. thats not going to happen with air bubbles, driving up hills, dirty cooling systems, and most of the issues we face with older vehicles like ignition timing and mixture problems. the thermostat is desigbed to operate between 80 and 100 (maximum range between hot and cold thermostat versions) so ideally u shouldnt ever reach this point. as soon as u go over 100 celcius, u better hope that straight water is nice n air free, or else u start risking bubbles, and bubbles cause an exponential increase in heat. a bit like thermal runaway. A modern expansion tank system, as i illuatrated abive, or an old non pressurized system simply cannot run on pure water. but our rollas along with most modern motors are relitively safe (temperature wise) with there pressurized systems. saying all that, i remember the corrosion and crap i saw in my 4k motor when i rebuild it. cast iron doesnt go well without the corrosion inhibitor in coolant. USE COOLANT.

kickn stop reading united states of american automotive stuff. haha :p that country has the stupidest humans on earth. apart from nasa. cross the nth parralel up in to canada and they are a vastly different intelect. anyway, yes, water transfers heat better, but only slightly better. I read that if u ran 100 percent glycol with no water, the difference in heat transfer at temps of around 100 degrees celcius is about 10 percent worse than straight water. I read that in a very technical engineering thesis about cooling systems. This tells me it is not enough of a factor to consider straight water a good option for anyones situation. would love it if anyone else has read that pdf and knwws a link. i doubt it. It was a year ago i found it and my computer died since then :(