rebuilder86

yeh i know but i struggle to see how it can stop enough heat for it to be outside of operating range. is it located realy high up in this design, to be used as a bleed port or something?

reliability wise, the 5k internal is better. But yeh it is deigned for a 5k motor, and for heavy pigs, so the advance is a bit different. I've fixed that by putting both vacuum advance cans to the manifold, by Teeing them together and running simply off manifold joined together for both. Sorry i shouldn't say fixed, lets say, greatly improved

ive never been a believer in the idea that an air gap causes it to missread SO FAR that it thinks the engine is cold. Hot gas is fucking HOT But the suggestion gets thrown around so often i may be wrong.

https://www.olx.ph/item/toyota-4k-5k-liteace-fx-distributor-electronic-type-ID7O55W.html?h=36ef101338 90 dollars gets u a good genuine brand new 5k distributor here hahah, itll fit straight in ur 4k and has everything in it u need. no modules nothin, its all inside. You see, in Australia, we pay a premium for every wealthy bastard who gets paid along the supply chain. If you want it ill get it n bring it to aus. (perth, then u pay for postage from there)

sorry i should say HIGH CURRENT FLWO TO THE HALL EFFECT SENSOR, but there is a constant flow. as opposed to none with a reluctor type. Saying that, the overheating issue is with the switching on and off side, not the powered side(dependant on the current coming from the coil) so perhaps i shouldnt have mentioned it at al as it will just create confusion.

i have been emailing hotspark about the 3 ohm thing and they (perhaps just a salesperson) assured me that their technology is superior in terms of spark quality but must be used with correct coils. according to bosch the coils that power most factory electronic distributors are HEI type, at less than 1 ohms and are usually (perhaps always) transformer coils.. this suggests to me that they can handle much more current. I'm quite certain of that finding. Bosch refer to electronic distributors as described in this screenshot and talk about the HEC suitablitiy their appropriate coils as HEC or MEC. These are always low resistance coils. And then this from the product specs (see bold ohms ratings) Part Number Outputs Type [ohms] [ohms] Connector Terminal Comments GT40R 1 Oil Filled 1.2 8 - 10 K M4/M5 Standard Canister type GT40RT 1 Transformer 1.5 8.6 K M4/M5 Standard Type “A” HEC 715 1 Transformer 0.41 7.8 K M4/M5 Standard Type “A” HEC 716 1 Transformer 0.41 7.8 K M4/M5 DIN type Type “B” MEC 717 1 Transformer 0.45 6.6 K M4/M5 Standard Type “A” MEC 718 1 Transformer 0.45 6.6 K M4/M5 DIN Type Type “B” 9 220 061 710 1 Transformer 0.4 7.8 K M4/M5 DIN Type Type “B” 0 221 503 407 2 x 2 Epoxy Filled 0.5 13.3 K 1 237 000 039 Standard Double ended coils 0 221 503 002 3 x 2 Epoxy Filled 0.5 13.3 K 1 287 013 900 Standard Double ended coils

haha yeh stick em in my suitcase. in all seriousness we could really abuse the balikbayan service and start exporting them to australia in carboard boxes. the poor deliverymen. its just steel so wouldnt be dangerous goods. google balikbayan.

coolant would evaporate i think

bloody sprung a power steering leak mate. what a shit and probably coming from the rack itself under that boot in the background

that diagram shows a 1.4 ohm coil, be aware that all the hall effect ignition modules, (i think ALL aftermarket points replacement modules) require 3 ohm minimum for 4 cylinder application. ( so a 3 ohm coil or a 1.5 + a 1.5 ohm ballast resistor) hehe banjo will tell you all about that. The thing is, just like points, the hall effect sensors are also affected by over current through the coil, so they are not that much better than points in my opinion. IMO, The absolute best, is a factory igniter, like the nippondenso 5K distributor, with internal igniter. with these there is no constant flow of high current to power the hall effect sensor, it uses an magnetic inductance reluctor instead. and they last forever. however finding one might be difficult. I'm coming back to aus in feb, and will gladly bring one back in my suitcase if its required! Plenty at the local scrap yards here in the philippines!! 5 k motors everywhere

actually yet the chamber gasket is probably more likely to fail than the manifold to head one. Being big and chunky, and getting lots of oil on it from the PCV system can make it hard and brittle.

yep and thats because it was designed to also work with a supercharger!! (4A-GZE) In place of a valve, it has a very small opening, the fact that the engine is fuel injected makes a pcv valve less important, as the injectors can be controlled to give more fuel during the idle scenario where vacuum is lost to the PCV leak. saying that, its not ideal, but they just have to have it. These setups are even more notorious for grim all over the throttle plate, because when under boost, it jsut throws pressure through that orifice into the crankcase and back out the breather pipe and all over the throttle plate. horrible and stupid right? Well if they had put a PCV valve in it, the valve would last not very long due to the constant pressure slamming the PCV vaalve tumbler seat back against the backfire seat face and this would stop all ventilation as the case would be closed! so the best option is to just throw it all into the throttle body up the fresh air tube. Again, it can be minimised with catch cans on the fresh air tube to catch any nasty backflowing gasses with oil and gunk in it.

so long as you have a functioning PCV valve your problem is most likely at hard deceleration. AT hard deceleration, the rpm is fast, but the manifold suction is high, so the PCV valve is closed, and the crankcase becomes a constantly variable pressure pump, and that pressure goes in and out of the breather pipe. Its a good idea to also put a catch can (closed with no filters on it, one line in one line out) in line on this pipe for this very reason. I'm currently employed working on a system for turbochargers to overcome this issue. involves vacuum pumps! ask no more.

ahh ok, i can see how it might read like that actually, and probably good that you pointed it out or else OP might misunderstand what I'm saying. Its very difficult to relay in depth technical information over text.

ok the rattle tells u nothing much. that just proves it isnt stuck. u really need to block the pcv port in the manifold to to test if that makes the hunting stop. if so, then thats the problem. pcv valves fail a lot and more often they get dirty and leak vacuum rather than get dirt and block flow. ok so when warming up, the ECU is ignoring the O2 sensor and fuel mix ratio (fuel trim) is locked at a preprogrammed value and this value is quite rich. during this time your surging on idle wont be too noticeable because the rich condition burns well. but when it gets hot, it starts to make adjustments to try to get the o2 sensor to read closer to the leaner stoichiometric mixture. this leaner operating condition amplifies any ignition or "fuel supply related issues", and this includes vacuum leaks. when the engine really warms up, like after 20 minites of driving, it becomes even better at burning lean mixtures, so sometimes a leak can get better with heat. your leak could be anywhere. u said u could hear a hissing, try to get ur ears closer to the source and see if u can pinpoint it. i once had to bight the bullet and just rip my mums mazda 323 astina manifold off because i couldnt find what was leaking, and when it came off i found a chunk of manifold gasket missing. replaced the gasket and the issue was resolved. the aymptoms for that one where 100% identical to urs. it was a pain in the ass for about 3 montgs before i juat bit the bullet and ripped it off and found the leak. gaskets do just dissapear in pieces.

nope sorry. thats what u read on the net. not what happens in practice. note i said "blow hard and fast" which mimmics a high vacuum situation like idle. it should be restricted, or else it is not restricting the flow of air at idle and low power. the blowing from the other way as u describe only tests the back seat face, which is really only practically used in the even of a backfire.

it does close but not completely. blow through the pcv valve in the direction of flow and ull find it restrictive but not blocked. this is so that at idle the pxv hose still pulls air out of the cranccase and this is replenished by the air coming from the pipe which goes to the air intake. this point suggests u may not be 100% on the function of the pipe to the air cleaner. u should never have blowby going to the air cleaner, its desigbed to flow away from the air cleaner into the rocker cover to replenish the air air sucked out by the pcv valve, as per my diagram. there are 2 seperate functions of the entire system 1. to remove excess pressure and maintain a slightly negative pressure in the crankcase 2. to remove contaminents from the crankcase before they settle into the oil. If u simply ran an atmospheric vent, number 2 wouldnt happen. if u ran the system without the manifold suction, number 1 wouldnt happen at high rpm.

i think the only way u could really settle this is with a dyno test. one with the pcv valve attached to the manifold (so that the air leak os the same in both tests) but the crankcase left to vent and one with the pcv in the rocker cover actively pulling like its designed to. put it this way. without a vacuum pcv system, the crankcase can at times be greater than atmospheric preasure, and this is bad. with the pcv functioning as designed, with or without a catchcan between the valve and intake, there will always be negative pressure on the crankcase and this will stop backwards blowby up the fresh air supply hose. the only times it continues to fail and blow oil back up the fresh air line is on decceleration, and this is where i think the whole system is flawed. plus the little bit of loss of good atomising air flow through the venturi for a given rpm due to the induced vacuum leak.

yeh it is a shit diagram actually, just the only one i could find. ok at idle, the atd pcv valve doesnt completely shut, it is a restricted leak at this point but still pulls to create negative pressure required in the crankcase. this wont happen if u juat run a pipe to the intake near the air filter in a N/A car as vacuum is quickly diminished at low rpm by the amount of air supplied in the area near the filter. I learned an NA car needs vacuum applied to the crankcase or else the compression rings jump off their seats momentarily at the bottom of the intake stroke while in any power on scenario. There is not enough vacuum at idle or during power near the air filter. it should be a source of fresh air only. turbo is a different story.

i think all information was removed from other sources on the net and allowed only solely to be displayed on rollaclub haha.

don't look for restriction, look for the opposite. it should be restrictive. if u can blow through it (fast and hard) in the direction towards the intake manifold, then its leaking too much and will be a large vac leak. as for the intake manifold gasket, ive always been able to hear the leak, but not until i had worked out that there was indeed a leak haha. i have had limited success with soapy water, but good success spraying "start yah bastard" (spray ether, or starting fluid) all around the manifold. that stuff will make it revv if theres an air leak. and yes, the drop to a rough stumble almost stall then overcompensation high rpm is typical of a large vacuum leak

the manifold must be involved if a pcv valve is to be used, or else there is not enough suction to actually pull the PCV valve plubger from the at rest (or backfire) position. if u are not using manifold vacuum at all, and are sending pcv gasses into the air inlet then there should be no PCV valve involved, this would be similar to a turbo pcv setup. like this. https://goo.gl/images/5vXjKQ but this is stupid if its not a turbo as there will not be enough suction in the air intake pipe to pull any nastys out.

none of this is making sense. haha can u draw a diagram of what your doing?

ok now I'm totally confused. hehe You say your just going to run it without vacuum... then say that ur running PCV without the can.. so wheres the can goibg and whats its purpuse?

nah parrot, the fresh air comes from the air filter housing, the PCV doesnt feed into there, if thats how its setup on urs its been setup wrong. That little meshed filter is supposed to be stoppign solids from entering the PCV breather hose, which should be on the other side of that. Thats why its inside the filter, so that the fresh air supply is filtered. The pcv valve wont open from the "at rest" backfiring position unless it has vacuum pulling on it. To get the catch can to work, you must pull the PCV gasses into it, by sucking through the catch can with vacuum. If you don't have a vacuum source involved in your catchcan setup, you are completely wasting your time and risking having nastys building up in the crankcase, , and greatly increasing oil consumption. If you want to run a catch can setup it has to be like this Sorry bout the poor graphics haha MS paint can only do so much