rebuilder86

kah ok, so would it be a correct assumption, that it is basically stalling when u are coming up to a set of traffic lights or to a stop while driving? but no problem after u start the engine and idle it? if so, then there are a couple of possibilities. malfunctioning fuel pump check valves are most problematic at idle, so check them. theres an "in" and an "out" inside the stock pump. fuel pump check valves worn, - unrepairable, fuel pump must be replaced fuel pump check valves dirty - flush with carby cleaner, then replace filter (this is common when cheaper rubber fuel hoses are used) Other than that the float itself can stick, but this is usually tempremental and you have changed carbs allready. but back to the brake booster, how did u check that it was ok? it cannot be propperly tested (vacuum hold style) without the brake pedal pressed in a bit. if the brake pedal is at rest, the booster air inlet is sealed and this will mask the fact the booster is ruptured. it can be a small rupture and wont affect brake performance but will stall the engine.

yeh if i do large quantaties, authorities will raise eyelids. I'm more inclined to just help out 3 people at a time and bring over 3 as a personal shipment once a year. the liteace 5k is also here, but most of them are dead now, but those tamaraws are everywhere, and many of them still have running 5ks in them

just take comfort in the fact it chose to snap instead of shearing the thread in the block in the first place couldve been much worse.

if u are just sitting at idle, not moving, and push the brakes, does it stall or stumble? if so the brake booster diaphragm or seal is probably ruptured, a common issue. when u push the pedal, the seal at the back (pedal side) opens up exposing the positive side to atmosphere, which then leaks through the ruptured diaphragm and then u have a major vacuum leak.

haha when did i say that? I said I rev the engine to 1200rpm while trying to get air gaps out, in a car without a thermostat. and that takes all of 10 seconds with those revs, as opposed to "never" at idle. 10 seconds isnt even enough for heat to become an issue. at idle there is not enough flow to push the air from the back of the cooling chambers to the front, it will stay there FOREVER. no funnel, no gravity is going to push it out, it must be pushed out by flow. u saw my video, with the horrible sound right? the problem is, my tactic wont work with a thermostat in place, as the thermostat just restricts the flow and the revving wont do anything. so ud have to remove the T-stat, temporarily reinstall the housing, do the air push out at ~1200rpm, then reinstall thermostat and fill up the top hose very slowly. being carefull not to fill it so fast u push air back down i to the head. (the thermostats presence should avoid this)

if u simply google the issue, the reaults u get are all incorrect, i will put my life on it. when u let off the throttle, the vacuum advance will advance the timing significantly, taking timing practically out of the equation. the other simply wrong information scattered across the net is that a lean pilot circuit will "CAUSE" the popping. This can none of the information on the net is relevant to this motor or this carb. here is an explanation of the later years solution to the problem. https://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0900c15280047f86

for some reason my reply was deleted. if someone disagrees with what I say, please disagree, don't delete it. backfiring on decel hey. i know all about that. i had to invent an electronic idle solenoid cutoff for deceleration to stop it on mine. basically, whats happening is fuel is being drawn in the idle (slow) jet but the throttle plate is closed so it cannot get any air so it doesnt ignite in the combustion chamber. it waits till it gets out into the exhaust manifold where it ignites from the little bit of air available in there. if its really loud, there may be a good supply of fresh air in the exhaust manifold, indicating an air leak, usually at the flange to downpipe gasket. (this would also go hand in hand with the previous suggestion that the ping was actually just exhaust leak) u cannot eliminate the popping on overrun without cutting fuel. other slightly later models had these fuel cut systems built in. further, altezza, mine happens with timing litteraly anwywhere from std to advanced off the chart. however its possible that timing is having an impact on the size of the backfire. since perfectting mine with a vacuum and rpm controlled set of switches, i managed to bring consumption down from a very dismal 14-15 l/100ks to a simply dismal 11-12l/100ks. but ive recently figure my engine is clapped out and completely wrong in terms of compression ratio so id imagine it would give even better results for someone with decent engine. it has no effect on power, just stops wasting fuel through the slow jet on deceleration, not to mention improves safety and engine braking significantly

i guess that one u zoomed in on, at 16 january, is the only one of the lot that looks cold actually, and that probably would be because ur driving is very gentle in the city i guess?? ur cooling system is therefor probably approximately, twice as efficient as mine, as i constantly see the top hose and thermostat housing at about 75-80 degrees after only about 10 minutes of IDLING haha. thats just measured with a basic lazer thermometer, but id suspect its pretty close. perhaps its just the humidity and equator as u mentioned. oh and as u know, i have no thermostat.

ok i get yah, so this temp that it is reaching, is litteraly just being cooled from the water making it through the bleed valve or past the thermostat? i find that amazing, and it totaly debunks pretty much everything i thought i knew.

hah my mums car, whenever she would get home, turn off her car, i always wondered what the ticking noise was that came from the engine bay. both her cars did it. is it oil dripping onto the metal slosh plate in the sump, or metal creaking from heat soak.

but ur thetmostat mustve opened, it appears to be regulated at about 70 degrees for about half an hour. half an hour shoukd be enough to get to operating temp surely? if it didnt open at all, it wouldve just continued to rise, as theres nothing except the radiator to cool the coolant. the bypass hose bypasses the radiator so has no substantial cooling effect at all, short of its rubber getting a bit of a breeze from the fan. I just don't follow it, so maybe i am missing something or missinterpretting ur description of ur findings. i recon ur thermostats opening early. the springs probably worn out. or perhaps, ur measuring system is just that much more accuratr than any wax pellet and thats how they all are. i just wouldve thought it should get up to operating temp (tstat equilibrium) faster than that

these graphs are so damn awesome, thank u banjo for taking the time to post them. this is the kind of data i trawl the net looking for to learn about efficiencies and just how things realy work in practice. i don't quite follow ur point about the thermostat not even opening in the 2nd chart. is 88 degrees (as marked on tstat) the beginning opening temp? surely if the tstat didnt open at all over an hour of driving it would just get hotter and hotter??

thats the damn picture i havent been able to see on here, until u posted it just now. it didnt appear on any device i used to view this website! Wings, earlier today, i studied this picture carfully and came up with 18 as my interpretation of the stamp on this 5k head. what yah think. https://m.made-in-china.com/product/Cylinder-Head-for-Toyota-5K-11101-13062-728423795.html I'm currently in the early stages of trying assign part numbers and models to individual head stamp codes and databasing it for this site.

hmm. trying to find 5k heads without lugs. i find the only mention of a flat top atyle head (no lugs) is this http://www.athousakis.gr/en/product/cylinder-head-toyota-lexus-10890/ but u think the selller was unaware its not a 5k head. i am now certain, there were absolutely no flat top 5k engines, only deep D dish, and shallow O dish. and i think the both had the same compression ratii.what exactly did the flat tops u saw in the 5k motor (that u got the 95 stamped head from) look like? were they O dish? like this.. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/44933-5k-flat-top-pistons/

so hang on a minute werent u enquiring about the 95 stamped one before? ok sorry just reread ur posts i thought u were saying this 95 one WAS a 5 k head. I am off to cebu for my flight in 2 weeks. when I'm there i will visit the k engine holy grail spares yard in the old city and see if i can find any heads with either of these casting marks. ill take lots of photos. its a "shop" on the street with lots and lots of toyota motors ripe for the stripping. but the white skin makes the price about tripple what a local would pay so I'm just enquiring at this stage.

also, my recent research suggests that all 5k heads have the little lugs under one and four spark holes. urs doesnt :/ and also they all appear to have longer cutouts where the 2 small water holes are near the pushrod hollows. urs just has the std 4k type.

hmm. those water jackets look like theyd suffer the same problems u warned me about in the photos i shoeed u. which makes me wonder, surely toyoota would make the 5 k head have more clearance between the steel head gasket rings and the coolant holes??? makes me suspicious that maybe its not a 5k head.

this is how I'm thinking of doing it. quote from bmexpress.com website reverse cargo services Sea Cargo – Port to Port $250 per BM Jumbo Balikbayan box Manila to Australian Port Only –The Receiver has the responsibility to release the boxes thru Australian Customs. *BM will provide the documents and instructions on how to release the boxes Min Volume – 3 Boxes (No Weight Limit) Delivery Timeframe – 4-5 weeks Reciever must pick up boxes from the agents warehouse in Australia Restricted Items – Dangerous goods, Perishable Items, Items of wooden material, Commercial and newly purchased items are subject to taxes and duties.

yes they are the source of all the 5ks i talk of. I'm grnhinely trying to work out a way to economically get a whole lot of them, just the blocks and pistons amd crankshaft and camshaft assemblies into boxes and shipped to Perth. the balikbayan service is actually designed to go the opposite, from aus to philippines, so I'm trying to work out if any of the smaller services can do the reveerae trip.

jeesus that is the best thing anyon3 has ever told me. thank u

all of them :p

all sorted, turned them around the CORRECT WAY (LOL) and shes sweet. Just needed to speak to people about it to clear my mind, and it helped. So i have been driving around for about 4 years with reversed rod caps! probably needs another grind back and next size under bearings now :/

yeh the manifold nuts on mine need to be re tightened about twice every year. hahah dodgy as right? i was previously scared of stripping the female aluminium stud threads in the head so FOOT TIGHT is about where I would stop. But then i kept finding the nuts loose. so now i even ignore the 21 foot pounds in the manual and rattle gun the shit out it with my bosch cordless 18v which apparently puts out 185 Nm of torque. So lets just say , worst case, i put 100 nm into it, it still comes loose about twice a year. Id say it has somethign to do with the thickness of the manifold gaskets. they have a lot of give.

yeh altezza i thought it couldve been the bevel/web catching also but now 8m certain tge conrod caps are backwards, and always have been I'm jist praying that spinning them back the right way will fix it. I just can't understand how it was running before backwards with such little and very uniform visible wear. i had previously done the rings 2 years ago and when i did that i followed the same process, one at a time and copied the orientation of the other caps. I'm ceryain i didnt start this backwards nonsense haha. anyway, i am dissregarding the apparent even wear on the bearings due to the fact that the cap doesnt take much load, other than during the compression stroke, and thats probably why it looked fine but had low oil pressure. (an easy exit path through the rod cap when the crankshaft oil hole turns to to the cap side.) This would also explain why when i give it some stick, then just slightly but quickly let off the power, the oil pressure would instantly rise the moment i lift my foot: about 8 psi difference between full throttle and quarter throttle while coasting at about 2000 rpm. When under power, the bearing cap would be pushed away from the journal and let the prrssure escape, and when letting go of power, the cap and journal recenters and pressure gets slightly better. Banjo, yeh the mains are all good, and i pulled 2 off (2 and 4) and they are mint and also 0.5 undersize so the crank has had work all over which is nice to see. My bearings are undersize, i confirmed this when i accidently bought std size and eyeballed it and the 0.25 is def undersize (for undersize crank) as opposed to 0.25 oversize (for oversized caps). but that there would probably be a common trap id imagine. my lesson learned, is to not just blindly follow the last engine builder and accept that the engine has been set up correctly. like u said banjo, checking the marks lined up wouldve completely avoided this trouble.

actualyl i take that back, i have this exact carby ( the 3k-4k one) https://store.rytparts.com/carburetor-fits-toyota-corolla-lite-ace-forklift-3k-4k.html, and it hasnt given me any problems in the 2 years ive had it. I've also used their valve stem seals (no issues in 2 years) and their sump gasket (no issues) I really wish they had spark plug tubes. mine have disintegrated and i suspect its causing issues with crap getting into the oil sump.