rebuilder86

What PCV system sends pcv gas through the air filter? Or even tgrough the carb? thats retarded and it wont even work. it needs vacuum. PCV goes to the manifold. Fresh air is supplied to the rocker from clean air after the air filter, and during deceleration, it can spit back some gunk up the fresh air tube.

look at the beautiful marketting in that brochure. compare that to modern brochures, which are littetaly 10 pages of photos of people smiling using their Iphones! interesting how they areleady had the same engine cutaway graphics (pg 10) attempts, that we have today using computer models. That spins me out.

if u need some help, this guy had one ( sprinter with a K-C motor) https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/3549-ke15-engine-questions/

yeh its just the K motor with k original bigport head. When u said the engine code on the block stated with a k thats what made me think that, now I am certain as the model is stated there as a 1077cc!!! https://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/Blocks The original first K motor! Having a c on it probably means its just a bit worse than a standard k, so id suspect its just the carby is a bit leaner or something. Plenty of room in that engine bay, and a 9:1 compression ratio, thats begging for a turbo. :P

hey cali. rest assured there are some experts on here who will point you in the right direcrion. My limited knowledge is that k motors are completely interchangeable between heads and blocks, so we constantly find missmatching parts. now ur 3k-c sticker is on the rocker cover not the head, and it is possible the cover is just a second hand replacement. Now don't take this as gospel, but i beleive also that the 3k-c camr out in 1977. This vehicle is too early to have a 3k-c. the 24010 head is an early bigport head and quoting another source "does NOT have valve stem seals, and instead have double groove valves with o-ring and oil shedding umbrella thing" (https://www.google.com.ph/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/threads/59544-Identify-3k-engine-by-engine-number&ved=0ahUKEwiT-Oe-jPnXAhWGipQKHTZVBSsQjjgINzAE&usg=AOvVaw26eJuSZeRh-CSjECuo_Tkd) id say.. std 3k engine with a 3k-c rocker cover haha. greetings from across the pond

ok this needs to be settled. and ahoukd be settled here. the rexommendation by hot spark and the likes, do not apply to original equipment. the minimum specs of 3 ohms is for their dodgy aftermarket creation only. see this screenshot of a bosch document. Note it sais HEC/MEC coils are for electronic distributors. HEC and MEC coils go down to o.5 ohms. This proves tgat the recommendation for 3 ohms only applies to aftermarket points replacement devices. The confusion would have come directly from thibgs like this .an EK kit is another electronic conversion. conversion kits are the problem. Bosch EK kits must not be used with HEC or MEC ignition coils It is recommended that ignition coils designed for use with contact sets are not used with any electronic ignition module, as higher than normal back voltage may damage the switching transistor. Bosch EK kits are designed to operate with SU120R and GT40R ignition coils, along with the original ballast resistor. Only the original vehicle coil can be used, otherwise the switching transistor will be destroyed. my current coil is fine, and my missfire must by a dodgy electric fuel pump.(again) thats the difference between research and blindly beleiving everything.

wow, i found this Pretty tempted to try the Bosch BIC100 on a 1.5 ohm ballast and just see if it goes well... Looks as if someone has gone and tested the power of all the coils available.

I have a sneakign feeling that the warnign of using 3 ohms doesnt apply to factory igniter systems Different sources 12V Bosch Blue Coil with Mounting Bracket, US Version, 00-012US is a factory replacement Bosch Blue Coil with the 3 ohm impedance (internal resistance), compatible with points, and points replacement devices, in 12V electrical systems. If you are running points, or a points replacement device (Compufire or Pertronix), you MUST make sure your ignition coil has the ballast resistor. Stock Bosch blue coils have the 3 ohm ballast resistor INSIDE the coil. If your coil or primary ignition winding doesn't have this ballast, the distributor will burn up and leave you walking. There are five different "Bosch Blue Coils", and only one of them has the ballast in it.

oh no i know that. but after start, when its running (through the resistor) surely that will affect the spark size? I mean, the same 1.5 ohm coil run on ballast will be weaker than without ballast? But it would be stronger than a 3 ohm coil, because it has the extra 1.5 ohms worth of turns as coil wire making spark rather than 1.5 ohms of resistor reducing current before the coil.

ok so i have spent the better part of half a day physically testing only to come to an abrupt halt. I attempted to test spark without cranking the engine, but it doesn't work on either of the 2 coils i have, and i suspect this is because the igniter turns off the coil when the engine is below a certain rpm in order to stop it burning out. so cranking is the only way to test, unless u can perhaps jack up the rear and have someone spin the wheels really fast, or perhaps push start the car while someone sits in the engine bay monitoring spark hahaha. Or crank the engine from a different battery. anyway the results are in and its not good. FUELMISER CC215 I tested my existing fuelmiser CC215 and it appears to have a nice bright white spark to the unaided eye. I tested it with all circuits normal operating (this includes the electric fuel pump which is on the same circuit as the coil) which takes the volts from 12.4 down to 12 at the coil, but still nice bright white spark. Then tested it again with everythign disconnected apart from the coil, and the spark looked much the same. THEN Then i i repeated the test one more time, this time with the coil attached directly to the battery with a new fresh wire, and all other circuits disconnected, and the spark actually appeared to be stronger. So this teaches us, that the voltage drop from all accessories and in particular electric motors and fuel pumps, greatly affects the power available to the coil while cranking. BOSCH BLUE Then i put the old Bosch Blue Coil back in. With this coil i did the exact same tests again, and interestingly, and, unlike 2 years ago, i could not replicate the bad spark. :/ It was weaker, but nothing near as bad as it looked 2 years ago before i replaced it. There was a bit of spark jumping off the insulator to the spark plug body so i cleaned out the plug and tried again and the spark then looked JUST AS GOOD AS THE NEW FUELMISER. SO at this point i thought for god sake i better just run this old bosch again. Hooked everything up. NO START The bosch blue is able to make a nice bright spark to the naked eye, but its all a joke, your naked eye cannot test a coil or spark plug. The spark looks good to the eye, but it lacks the power required to spark a compressed air and fuel mixture. I didnt have this issue when i replaced the bosch blue. I replaced it for fuel economy reasons. So i suspect what you said BANJO, has happened. That is, the coil has burned out the igniter and the igniter is on its last legs, (hence the slight misfiring over the hills), and now combining it with the old 3 ohm coil, there is not enough spark to even stat the engine. So the fuelmiser is back in for now, and i think I am going to have to look at a new ignition system because the options available with this stock 5K distributor are limited to the GT40R and I am quite sure that sticking a new 1.5 ohm coil on a 1.5 ohm ballast on a burnt igniter will only last a a short while.

hahah ill say. good job

adn both lite aces with the 5k and 4k are listed as GT40R or GT40 RT in the bosch manual. And i have that 5K distributor.

So here is a list of all the coils ive looked into and their approximate rating. I should only pick from coils that don't have a red figure. So running a resistor with the GT40 R should be significantly better than just running the GT40 however that doesnt take into account the fact hat the resistor extends the saturation time. So I'm just going to assume that a GT40R resisted down to 11 volts from 13.5 is taking only a fraction of its saturation speed away and will still be better than a GT40. At 3.4 ohms, why would the rollaclub wiki article say that the GT40 isnt suitable for electronic ignition? Hopeful someone finds this info useful in the future.

so i just drove in to town to get some gas for the barbie, and had an epiphany, When i have been testing spark, it has been while cranking engine. So when i suspected the bosch blue coil as rubbish, that just may be because the 3 ohm winding is weak when cranking. So I'm going to put it back in, and remove all spark plugs, and turn the engine over by hand and check the spark on that old bosch blue.

Just got final reply from fuelmiser regarding the CC215. Good morning Jeremy Further to my correspondence yesterday please see below Primary 0.8 ohms Secondary 4500 - 6000 Ohms Primary inductance 7 - 9 mH Secondary Inductance 45-60H

our very own forums wiki sais the gt40 shouldnt be used in this dizzy. and that the electronic ignition "REQUIRES" HEI coil. do we need to edit this? It also states the HEC716 FROM bosch is the most suitable. this is a 0.4 primary, 7.8kohm secondary. https://www.rollaclub.com/wiki/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/K_Series/Electronic_distributor So with all the absolutely cotradicting information outvthere, I feel as if I am on my own.

so i google 4k coil, and i find rollaclub posta which say that the diatrubutor with the internal ignitor like mine is from a toyota 5k. so i googke 5 k coil and see for sale tridons oil filled coil to suit a liteace. TIC034R , and also the GT40R. (perhaps an indication that i should just get the GT40). then i google that tridon coil for specs to confirm but can't find anything, however i was linked back to the tridon book which sais that the TIC034R is interchangeable with the better transistor type TIC036R. No specs on that either. But surely its better than jist running blind liie i am now.

well ive just finished reading all that and i am an expert now :| ive come to realise, i just want the stock coil. what is it. and ill run it with a frikn ballast haha.

ferk yeah look at this https://www.google.com.ph/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=4&ved=0ahUKEwj59Ja84O_XAhVCi7wKHSZbBtEQFgg2MAM&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.pertronix.com%2Fcatalogs%2Fpdf%2Fptx%2F2010%2Fptx2010_coils.pdf&usg=AOvVaw2o2UMoTA0kgQwsm1Q9gudf So the one i want is the 3 ohm, so its only 8kohms. the 1.5 ohm one is 10.6kohms. So its only marginally better than the old shitty bosch blue coil Unfortunately, again no good and I have just worked out another of my methodology flaws. I incorrectly stated (in different words) that the factory setup would have better spark because the ballast resistor brings up the resistance. but it does that before the power gets to the coil so its making the coil worse, so that was incorrect of me to say.... the 3 ohm coil is not supplying less power, its converting the power into input on one side of the coil. so the 3 ohms will be giving more input power than a 1.5 ohm coil. not to mention, significantly more than a 1.5 ohm coil which has a 1.5 ohm resistor before it. what formula would use to work out spark energy, with the following variables ballast resistor ohms (no resistor or a 1.5 ohm resistor) system voltage of 13.5 No idea what amps the 13.V is before it gets to the coil primary ohms secondary ohms I'm really sorry, i know too much but not enough. I want to understand this.

right so putting a resistor between coil and igniter is pointless unless ur system voltage is too high , got it. To be honest i got very confused in your ohms law post, however i think that maybe one of the things that confused me was your calculation listed the ohms as 1.3, and this doesn't match with any igniter setups, as we both now agree it should be 3 ohms for most igniter setups. (whether it be a 3 ohm coil or a 1.5 ohm coil and a 1.5 ohm ballast) "So if we assume 1.3 ohms as spec'd, & assume a nominal voltage of 12 volts, then R = 12/1.3 = 9.0 amperes." So i got a reply from fuelmiser.... Good afternoon Jeremy At this point in time I can only give you the primary resistance which is 0.8 Ohms We are making enquiries with our suppliers for the secondary resistance and once this is available I will email you Regards I do have a ballast laying around, i wonder if i should just stick it on with this fuelmiser....... hang on just doing up a quick spreadsheet, see next post

maybe not... Flame-Thrower® HV 0.45 ohm coils are also compatible with most capacitive discharge (CD) boxes including our own Second Strike perhaps that means u need a cdi syatem to run them

now hang on that page u linked for the flam throwr coils shows 3 different type of ig ition systems that they make. ignitor 2 seems to have the ability to take 12 v coil at 0.45 ohms for 4-5-6 cylinder engines. that means the minimum requirement is different for that system so the only time we can rely on the rule is when the ignitor has a written recomendation. how do we know the stock electronic igniter isnt capable of handling it? perhaps the pertronix gear is is all made at different qualities, cheaper ones can't take the current, more expensive ones can.

also i should reiterate that I'm not just suspecting a bad coil, it produced a weak spark which i could see as "weak" with my eyes. this low impendance helped a lot but obviously its just too low. even tho this isnt a petronix, i can definatley agree on the 3 ohms rewuired, as the factory setup would have been a 1.5 ohm coil through a 1.5 ohm ballast resistor. Further thoughts. how exactly does the power going through the coik hurt the igniter. It is my (possibly completely wrong) understanding that the coil positive wire simply powers the igniter and the igniter turns on and off the negative circuit from the coil?? or is it the high current going down the negative cicuit being switched on and off by the igniter which causes the problem?

yep i have read all that about the three ohm primary minimun requirement and completely agree to change to that. quote "Flame-Thrower coil (wonderful descriptive name) looks like a good product. Produced in 1.5 ohm & 3.0 ohm versions with oil filled & epoxy filled versions. They claim 40,000 Volts HT voltage, which allows you to widen, the spark plug gaps. Interestingly, the Flame-Thrower secondary resistance is 10.6K ohms." bingo, thats the one i want. 3 ohm 10k ohm You champion. bit of a cheesy name haha but those specs are the first ive seen that some way match what is required.

wtf, 1.4Kohms secondary. that is stuffed mate. u sure u don't mean 14 kohms? ( i think ur reading that on the wrong scale) Banjo, i need one of those spark testers. the ohms I'm enquiring about is the secondary. thats where the problem lies. if the secondary resistance is small, like 8k, then it will have a weaker spark than the same primary resistance coil with an 11 kohm secondary. that i know is a fact. I'm not worried about the primary now, i know that the current one is wrong, but now when i go to find the 3 ohm one, its going to have to have a high secondary resistance or it will be weak. no, i don't think i agree with that. a spark isnt just a spark. a stronger power requirement, ()more fuel and air) requires more spark. If i go and make the gap smaller, I'm jsut moving the problem from the coil to the gap. it needs a 0.8mm gap with correct power. I can actually see visually, the weaknesss of the spark with the the bosch coil here which is a 3ohm - 8kohm. Do you think perhaps it just may be dying without showing a bad reading perhaps? simply because its a shit bosch blue coil ( they get a bad wrap according to my research, but so do the orange GT40s with electronic ignition) All i know, is with the blue coil, i had 3 ohms primary (no resistor neccesary) and 8kohms secondary and spark was crap. SO hopefully altezza means his GT40 is 14K ohms. if so , i want one.