rebuilder86

yes its frowned upon, and perhaps this is exactly why, perhaps it has been....., messed with?? I was suggesting that it may have been set too high, not a major suggestion, but one to consider. Anyway, yes i was saying to bypass the throttle coolant passages. it will make it idle high yes, and if it does, and stays at a steady high idle, then u can confirm that it is the Auxiliary air valve which is causing the hunting.

id say that the little bit of research uve done is already 8 times more what toyota did back in the day.

reviving a pump is very difficult. i tried it and failed. when it dies due to no use its usually moisture causing corrosion.. and that is irreversible.

mm i understand that frustration. that sort of surging every 2-3 seconds is often a result of an IAC valve doing its thing with a faulty senaor, so the closeat equivalent of that in this car, like everyone else is saying, is this auxiliary air valve, controlled by the collant... are u able to just temporarily bypass the throttlebody by putting a simple brass nipple between the coolant in and outs to simulate a cold engine? this would allow u to finally rule out or in this as the problem. that seems like the best analysis methid at this point. there is also an idle speed screw on this thing i believe, at the top i believe, which if not adjusted propperly, is effectively a vacuum leak that u canr see or hear or test for.

also as u saw some bubbles, try giving it a rev with the cap off and see if any more come out, then while holding the revs there fill the radiator to the absolute top so there is no air at all able to be pulled back when u release the rpms back to idle. id say about 1200 should be enough.

do not give up. can u explain what the old surging was like? how long would a single up and down surge last, ie would it cycle between high and low about once a second, or was it relitively long like a few seconds up high, then a few seconds down low? i can feel ur frustration, but wed all really like to see u get it sorted. the stalling while coming up to lights sounds like a fuel supply issue, either too much (way too much) or just not enough. here is one particularly common cause of stalling while cold after deceleration with EFI. while relitively cold, the engine needs more fuel to combat the poor atomization, especially at idle. so before the engines computer switches over to leaned out closed loop mode with readings from O2 sensor, the only things which has a physical impact on fuel flow is the pressure regulator (vacuum vs spring strength). seeings as tho this is happening only before it gets hot, id again be suspicious of a vacuum leak on the actual hose to the fuel pressure regulator. (causing an extremely excesively rich mixture just after deceleration to idle). The other potential problem could be that the regulators spring is becoming weak, making the suction signal have more effect on the FPR valve and potentially opening up the return line too much leaning out the mix and stalling out. This could be overcome by the hot engine as the fuel atomises better and the idle doesnt need as much fuel like that. So when cold it is so problematic it cannot run. when u restart the motor, the spring goes from completely relaxed (highest fuel pressure) to a nice mid level and doesnt become an issue again until a deceleration event occurs, including, simply revving the motor ans coming off the throttle abrubtly. the electronic parts which may influence the fuel supply are the injectors and TPS and temp sender. but all of these can probably be ruled out because the issue goes away when they become more prominent in closed loop, whixh u would expect to see more problems from vacuum leaks and sensor faults. i hope this makes sense

but really when u jumpered that terminal it shouldve had 12 v then, did u test that connection when u had the jumper wire connected?

the pump.wont turn on unless the engine is actually running, oe the key has just been switched to on. (primes for a few seconds) can u get someone to turn the key to on for u while u monitor the connection with the multimeter. this will see if its getti g 12 v during those few priming seconds.

i have zero experience with a leaking taillight, but me and dad drive around the city here in cebu, where all cars are absolutely destroyed amd always have broken taillights with practicalky fish in them, and we believe tail lights shouldnt be sealed at all, they should be designed to drain. so if u can, id suggest try find a way to keep a section at the bottom open for drainage. less material and something to make ur product even better. i know ur talking about the gasket between metal and plastic, but that should have the same thing, drainage towards the outside of the vehicle.

hmmm. ive tried locking up the velocity flap and it just bogs down like crazy if i kick it in the guts (give it some quick power). this week I'm going to film it and see when exactly it is opening in preperation gor another project. I'm interested in how urs ran so well with it locked open.

jeesus, well personally after many failed attempts at doing gearboxes without a transmission jack, I'm amazed hahaha. I don't think its possible, for me!

errrrrrm, has somebody put different coloured bubblegum in all the connectors??? Bugger that cut the wires and "macguyver jumpstart style it", like quickly touch them together and pull the AHHH face when you do it!

And to make it more complicated, the reason there is no actual "fuel pump relay", is because there are actually about 3 ahaha so, the EFI main relay provides power to the fuel pump circuit opening relay (which to me is the closest thing to a fuel pump relay), which takes a second yes or no (on or off) signal from the air flow meter. (so that the pump turns off if the engine turns off and airflow stops) But anyway, just connecting those 2 pins, bypasses the circuit opening relay and turns the pump on, sending all power needed through the wire u stab in to the connectors, so long as the EFI main relay is on (key is on) The circuit opening relay is attached to wires on a yellow connector, close to the body of the ECU. so if this test successfully turns on the pump, but the pump doesn't work by simply turning the key to on, then locate this relay and replace it.

often the fuel pump does just die when sitting there. i wouldnt be surprised if it was that. I've personally experienced it with my farm bashing pajero. There is a connector somewhere where you short 2 terminals to activate the fuel pump relay.. This is from the MR2 manual but the same connector exists somewhere for you, so find it. U should be able to hear the pump running when u connect these terminals, with the fuel cap off that is. If not, be certain the pump isnt running and its almsot certainly the pump itself. Relays fail from lots of use, pumps fail from no use or overheating.

far out. How did you actually go with lifting the box back up into place?

is this gearbox super light or something. hehe banjo u just said 8. reinstall. thats the impossible bit.

yeh I'm starting to think that its our definitions. for me, surging and hunting are the same thing, (only because ive never experienced the slower variety) but maybe surging should be reserved for rapid up and down like an ecu does via iac , and "hunting" maybe should be reserved for slow changes in base idle.

ok wings, if u have assistance, it may be possible, if not just for the mental support, that always helps. U'll need rope, trolley jack, and a good smooth ground to work on. After youve got he new clutch in, make sure its aligned perfectly, no visual checks, it has to be aligned physically. If you can't get an aligner, the bog standard super shit impact screwdriver happens to fit perfectly through the splines of every clutch ive ever done, and alligns it perfectly with the spigot bearing. The one that looks like this only, it works perfect. haha Then when u go to put it in, ull have to have the car raised up a fair bit, and have the trany chained or strapped to the jack, and just get the spline roughly lined up. Your assistant must be ready with an upper tranny bolt in their hand. Now have the assistant take all the weight from the front of the gearbox (via the rope) while they are standing or kneeling on the engine with the front of the gearboxes weight around their body. and get them to visually lift up the front until its in line and give you the word PUSH when it looks like its about to go in. all u should be doing her is takign the weight of the rear and concentrating on pushing. Screw that man, just get the jack.

actually that is a fair point, if its severely slipping, it probably needs a scuff at least. Maybe just get in there with some silicon carbide and rough it up a bit haha

no offence, and i really don't mean any offence, you are with the million others who are just following procedure,, but i recon the flywheel resurfacing thing is rarely needed. Its best practice, but most of the time, noting is going to go pear shaped (literally) because of an old flywheel. I've had 3 cars for long periods of time (over 5 years each, no lie no exaggeration), all of which I did the clutch replacements fairly early on, without touching the flywheel, and never had an issue. I understand there is a risk of some conical deformity, adn that making a new clutch have minimal contact surface, but i haven't seen it in any car ive ever touched haha. However, just to put my view into perspective, I'm not a clutch man and i don't do them all day for a career, at a guess i think ive done maybe 8 clutches all of them single mass flywheels, and all of them, ABSOLUTELY IMPOSSIBLE WITHOUT A TRANSMISSION JACK!!! I got close on my Subaru, but there was no way i was going to let it hang from the clutch, so i backed out and took someone elses car n went n borrowed one. hah don't do it man, go get a jack. beg hire, or steal.

yeh blink of an eye sounds like oil just suddenly made its way to it, or if ur lucky, the cable, throw out bearing slideing surfaces or pedal has become snagged perhaps?

banjo i hope those last 2 that you got were so u could take them apart and copy them for us all!

also i can see that as quite a dangerous system, anything that relies on secondary mechanics to keep the engine rpm under control is pretty dangerous. 2 reasons. Cold driving may result in lack of engine braking, and cold driving may result in brake booster functioning below capacity. Do many people just bypass this thing all together? I can see it would be quite high up in the system and would be difficult to bleed.

ok fair enough so its not an ECU signal stopping it from getting into closed loop then.... OK u are the ONLY person i have found that sais they fixed a hunt by bleeding the cooling system, haha, however I now understand what you're saying and can see that happening. So this "auxiliary air valve" system is basically a cold idle increase thing. Sorry ive never dealt with one before. I did read and saw people mentioning the "air in the coolant passage in the throttle body" in the topic but didn't associate the throttle body with any sensor so i just wrote it off. Now it makes sense, its not air in the throttle body coolant, thats Chinese whispers. The issue i see is still that i can't see how it could HUNT. the wax pellet has heat capacity, it doesnt immediately loose its heat when an air bubble is around it. If you do the thermostat in the boiling water test, you notice when u pull it out it takes a while to close. The wax element in this auxiliary bypass valve would be the same. I can see it would make the idle slightly different depending on how much air is in the system, but i can't see how it would instantly open and close whit coolant touching and not touching repeatedly. Maybe i ought to go pick up one of these valves in town from a surplus store (wrecker) and to some tests, as you say you managed to stop a hunting surging idle by getting rid of the air. Sorry I'm not just putting up a fight, it just densest make sense.

i think what you see is lots and lots of people throwing the idea around, following on from the MR2 issues, where the radiator is a long way away, as you mentioned. I think what the truth really is, is that the senders in these peoples situations are broken and replacing the sender fixes the issue. Not that a bubble of air was giving a false reading. In fact, i do a search for "4age temperature sensor surging air bubble" And all the resolved forums point at, manifold gaskets, IAC valves, etc, and all of them are full of people suggesting this air bubble idea but they are never the "solved" answer. When i was 16 and beginning my car obsession, i too had this air bubble theory planted in my head from someone online. But lots of experience has proven it to be a myth. And just explain if you can, If the ECU can't get in to hot and lean closed loop mode, due to a lack of a hot coolant signal, why would it surge. Thats the bit no ones been able to explain. In open loop (cold and rich mode which everyone sais causes the issue), the mixture is rich, and this actually helps hunting issues wrt to vacuum leaks. Can you show me any thread, where the poster sais the hunting issue is resolved by bleeding the system? If so, then ill be happy to learn something. I had a nissan pulsar wen i was younger with some similar issue, and changing the sender did fix something. i can't quite remember what.