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rebuilder86

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Everything posted by rebuilder86

  1. rebuilder86
    Things like the dizzy or the carby are absolutely terrible haha but for the price I consider it good value. Its all chinese made and not really comparable to genuine, but for those who need cheap replacements, this country is the go to place. The bearings and pistons and gaskets are all fine and claim to be made in the US, FEDERAL MOGUL. The truth is, we just get screwed in Australia. And in complete contrast the otehrt end of the spectrum, here, everyone is paid chips, from the office worker who orders it, to the port worker who unloads the container. These old engines are just so common here, that the common regular bulk order from china makes it insanely cheap compared to what we get in aus.
  2. rebuilder86
    I'm coming back to aus in 3 weeks, so get your orders in now (PM ME)
  3. rebuilder86
    https://store.rytparts.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?p=1&q=toyota+4k divide the prices by about 38, and thats your AUD. Full set of valves, $30 dollars Set of std pistons, D dish with valve reliefs, (commonly for 4K-U or EFI 4K-E) $42 Full rebuild kit, including, pistons and pins, rings, cylinder liners, bearings, gaskets $182 hahahah!!!!! Camshaft bearings, $6 Cheap n nasty points type dizzy, $27 Carburetor, $77 Head gasket $4.50 Carby rebuild kits, $6
  4. rebuilder86
    nope. that causes a no start condition, not pinging!
  5. rebuilder86
    ok if its pinging at idle, something is seriously wrong mechanically, there is just not enough mixture to detonate audibly at idle in a normal engine. So before you continue looking for detonation causes, i suggest just making absolutely sure you arent hearing an exhaust leak, which commonly tricks people into thinking they have pinging or valve train noise. You may be well experienced and are certain that it is detonation, but I myself have been fooled into misinterpreting an exhaust leak at the manifold as a combustion problem and i advise others to second question themselves. That said, if its not banging at idle, but every other part of the PRM and/or load range, then sure, start looking at carby. Black plugs may just be oil fouling so I'm not going to rule out running too lean yet. Speaking of which, if theres enough oil carbon deposits in there, u could be developing a pre-ignition hotspot, another thing to consider. Or of course, it could jsut be the most obvious thing, which is the timing marks are wrong haha.
  6. rebuilder86
    hey banjo, u talking in inches here, this bearing is marked 0.25. I think 0.025 inches is the clearance, not the size, am i right in that thinking? Nah here we go, you're bloody close, but these must be 0.25mm.
  7. rebuilder86
    noo, the caps have always been backwards compared to the rods, because the tangs (on big end and cap shell) are opposite instead of next to each other!
  8. rebuilder86
    update, and this is embarrassing. I simply replaced the bearings one at a time, like i always do, and installed them the same way there were on before, by looking at the next rod along and lining it up the same way, but it turns out, it must've always been wrong because the tangs on the bearings ended up on opposite sides hahah. SO its always been backwards, god knows how the engine builder got it to turn when they did it. the bearings that came out actually looked flawless, but are now rusted and contaminated from being in the dirt so they're not going back in. This is just typical of the sorts of workmanship u can expect in this country, and i may be no better by trusting and copying the person before me. The pistons are installed in the correct orientation, dot forwards, but this leaves me wondering if the builder installed the conrods the correct way around in the pistons, if not, then the reversed caps would actually be correct... christ sake
  9. rebuilder86
    yeh its looking that way hey. there are plenty here, so i should be going that route next year, but can't afford it yet. So were u saying, the mechanic used tally ho papers as permanents shims????? hahah wow. I couldn't quite follow exactly what you were saying but whatever it is, thats awesome, and thats the kind of ingenuity I'm after. I will be under again today to remove the sump full of clean oil i just wasted, and check the bearings and have another go. I eyeballed the new bearings against the old ones and they realy do look identical, but in this country, parts are so cheap, this set of bearings was about 10 dollars, so its possible they just cut out piece of aluminium pipe, ccut them in half and tang them haha
  10. rebuilder86
    usually pinging is a result of too much compression, or too much timing or not enough fuel / too much air.. usually. It may actually be preignition, which is slightly different from pinging (detonation), where a hot spot in the combustion chamber ignites the mixture when it gets to a certain compression, the hot spot acts like a spark plug thats constantly lit like a glow plug. Q1 Is it pinging only under load .. (if so but the pinging goes away once rpm increases, then suspect base timing as the cause) Q2 is the manifold vacuum advance hooked up and functioning? (if not, the base timing would have to be set quite high for a smooth idle, which will ping its head off under load) Q3. how do the spark plugs look after a hard drive? (if white, then go and check your power valve piston in ur carby float cover again)
  11. rebuilder86
    if i had just left the bearings i wouldnt be in this mess
  12. rebuilder86
    I am in need of a bit of advice from anyone with experience in the area of engine rebuilding. I've done lots of rebuilds in my time, about 20, of which only 5 involved/required professional machining, and never once ran into so many problems. Short version, i had coolant leaking in to oil, pulled the head, couldn't see any obvious leaks, but suspected the fact that because the head was quite warped (~0.5mm) that it was just simply a head gasket failure. The head has serious problems, but i cannot source a new one, so I'm doing a bit of a dodgy patch up just to get the car into a position where it can be run. While i have the head off, i thought now would be a good time to change the big-end bearings, as there has always been a bit of a knock or slap when hot. When i got the bearings out, i found they were 0.25 under size, so this crankshaft has previously been ground. the crankshaft pin journals looks mint, and to be honest, so did the old bearings, but i had the new ones and thought, what could possibly go wrong, plus i am hoping that the new ones would quieten the noise by increasing oil pressure which is notably low. There is no such thing here as plastigauge, or assembly lube, so I'm roughing it. I am relying on the fact that i just removed 0.25 mm bearings, and am replacing them with identical new ones. I torqued them up with everything covered in 20-50 oil, but its just completely locked up. I have never experienced this before. So i undid them all a bit and found that if i have them tight at all, as in, as tight as my hand around the head of the ratchet handle, with minimal hand torque, its completely locked up and if i loosen them, it turns, so it is definitely the conrod bearings causing an issue. After this, i checked the bearings, and number 1 seems to have a bit of scoring already. nto terribly bad, but bad enough for me to scream so loud that the village thought the car fell on me. Now given that it has just had a head gasket failure, and water went through it all, i suspect it simply needs some gentle encouragement, in the form of some oil pressure. So i attempted to put as little back on the engine to build up oil pressure, but then realise during that attempt that jsut cranking isn't going to give me sweet fek all.. So my predicament, If i tighten the bolts, enough to safely run the engine, the engine wont crank. If i loosen the bolts enough to crank it, i don't want to start it because I'm worried something will rattle loose.. (anyone ever done this?) i can't just crank it because the pump needs to be running fast to overcome the gravity to prime the system. Is there any dodgy yet miraculous resolution anyone can think of, short of scrapping the whole thing? I have been thoroughly clean. I'm under the car doing this with a spray can of degreaser in hand, cleaning everything, before smothering it in oil. Dirt is not the issue.
  13. rebuilder86
    also just resettingy brain and rrading ur original post again, i have a few questions.. is the alternator a self regulating (2 wire plus charge) one or is there an external regulator?? the changing power load on rpm is simply evident of a malfunctioning regulator and I'm not sure how i negated to mention that originaly. and this is probably what banjo was getting at with his questions i think.
  14. rebuilder86
    haha shit. id say a bolt hole and its exposed thread should be enough contact for earth. so that might eliminate paint being an issue, unleas the bolt was individually painted aswell.... in all cars ive worked on, the negative battery terminal goes straight to the engine and that is a direct source (negative side) for the high current that the alternator puts out. so perhaps just try running that cable u bought directly from the alternator body to the negative battery terminal before moving on.
  15. rebuilder86
    also, the best advice i can give is to change ur thinking from this: to "there is something very simple wrong and I'm going to kick myself when i figure it out" u will figure it out, and it will then appear so simple
  16. rebuilder86
    ive found engine mounts to be completely insulated actually. theyre rubber. anyhow I'm suspecting the issue is with the alternators path to ground through its contact with the engine, like through its adjustable mounting bolts seeings as thats effectively the path u tested that gave erroneous results with the multimeter.
  17. rebuilder86
    haha i remember when i first discovered this phenomenon.. but someone (best mate with electroics engineering degree) pointed out to me, that when doing a voltage drop test we must have the accessory or thi g being tested turned on, because the resistance changes based on current going throught it. so if u are seeing a difference between on and off engine like that, it would suggest something is corroded. my brains not functioning too wrll right now so i cannot visualize exactly what it would mean, but perhaps someone else can step in here and diagnose this particular phenomenon further. off the top of my cloudy head right now, I am thinking that more current causing a higher resistance from alt to engine would be either a... nah sorry my brain is not working, but there is something odd going on there. I am sure someone here knows what I am getting at and can step in here. something to do with a bad path to earth (engine or chassis) from the alternator.
  18. rebuilder86
    anyway to your question, I have used a cheap rebuild kit for this carb and ran into trouble with the accelerator pump leather plunger drying out and fracturing within a few months. And having a look at the kit u posted (now that i know its not an ad :P), the pink colour of that plunger looks similar to the one i had issues with, now that doesnt mean that its going to be the same but take that into consideration. However, i then replaced the stuffed plunger with a different one, form a local carby store in perth, and this one had a more brown tinge to it, and it has lasted ever since, in a car that stays dry for about 8 months a year. Also, if that kit is exactly the right one for your carb, i am a good source of information as i have the exact carb and take it apart often, as i live in the worlds most dirty poluted road environment. When you take it apart, be sure to have a good look at the condition of the inside of the slow jet. Its, brass yes, but when the fuel sits stagnant in them for some time, they can build up these white crystals, i have no idea what they are, but they completely block it. This slow jet is not pictured in your rebuild kit, because it doesnt usually break. but it does get crudded. so take time investigating it. Another important and overlooked part is the power piston plunger, in the float bowl cover. It moves up and down all its life with little to no lubrication. It is never included in rebuild kits. Check it out and ensure it isn't scuffed. Scuff marks will cause the issues i had, where the vacuum was constantly leaking down the side of it, leading to a jolty kick at about 1700 rpm when booting it. BTW all u had to say was, I'M A PERSON. I'm not a an ass hole, nor a "TROLL" whatever that is, i love to help where i can. as for everyone else, I don't like being spoken down to tho like some inconsiderate stupid fool. That's just most peoples interpretation of me for some reason. perhaps i need to change and stop being myself. I thought it was a light hearted response to a potential real person. All i did was question you as a genuine first time poster. There are far too many companies using web forums to advertise, and many forums have put in place automatic stops to fix it, but there are clever ways to get around it, by making a long post. Its just there are so many of these types of things all over the forums i frequent. Please don't take offence.
  19. rebuilder86
    my apologies, but why are you offended. i was wrong. i get suspicious about first time posted with web links. and i appreciate your use of tags, but no one does that haha thast why it looked suspicious! please don't take offence. I just thought you were someone, something else :P
  20. rebuilder86
    i probably am loosing it. but well see if he replies
  21. rebuilder86
    i recon its just well written spam haha. advertising the carbyparts store. this is actually clickbait, the true definition of it, deisgned to put the website higher on google search.
  22. rebuilder86
    quite a afew tags there mr taggy mctag spam
  23. rebuilder86
    shitballs. id be heating up that corner of the block and dry icing the bolt thread because that always works for me on other parts of the car. in ur case ud have to lock two nuts on first and probably weld them to the thread before doing that. i think if u fail using brute force on that much exposed bolt, an easy out will have no chance.
  24. rebuilder86
    everyone always starts their post with no introduction to when or how the issue started. But then there are those like me who give their life stories haha So ill ask Did you install the conversion kit then this problem began?? or have u just bought the car and its giving a problem and ur just describing whats in it (the EFI conversion)? I have no idea why, but I'm just going to say EARTH STRAP, because most issues like this are caused by engine to chassis earth strap issues. And instead of criticising that suggestion, which i know will happen from someone, lets just let the OP open his eyes and check it, its free and easy to check.
  25. rebuilder86
    no idea. i havent owned an AE haha. can u get to the pump cover under the back seat?
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