rebuilder86

here ya go bud. here are the 2 pages of interest to u. these pages are the wrong way around, start at bottom of second one, there u find the appropriate jumpers to disable the advance.

haha. I feel all cozy inside that someone remembers. It gave me a perfect idle and now i have clean brown perfect plugs!!! haha. Perhaps that is a valid argument about toyota ECU. They currently make the most reliable cars in the world, and thats a statistical fact. (google reliability index and find the .uk site) I am not trying to prove u wrong to make a point or anything and i highly doubt the ECU is faulty, but toyotas suffer failures too. http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/#/topics/1059849 http://www.carproblemzoo.com/toyota/corolla/computer-failure-problems.php

say whaaat. ive had 2 cracked ecu boards in my time hahah. nissan pulsar 1990ish and mazda 323 astina BJ series 2000sumthing.

what sort of distributor has this thing got? is there any centrifugal advance on it or is it all electric? I ask because it kinda sounds like its simply lacking any timing. thats how my 4k ran when i ziptied the mechanical advance together for testing.

how is it u know there is an overfueling issue? Overfueling rarely causes an engine to die, unless its effectively leaking into the carby throat at a ridiculous rate. I'm almost certain its a lack of fuel, or spark. When u say rolling up to lights it dies, this is typical of a fuel pump issue, and i experienced this exact thing myself with a temperamental electric pump pulling fuel which was also vapour locking due to heat and crappy fuel and crappy fuel line. When driving along the float bowl is being emptied fast and pump is working hard and then all of a sudden when u slow down for the lights the fuel pump is slowed down and the bowl is almost empty and needs to fill up but the slow fuel supply from the slow fuel pump causes the bowl to be too low and it just cuts out because the level of fuel in the idle jet pickup chamber becomes too low. The other thing that happens when cars go form driving to idle is sometimes the presence of a significant vacuum leak causes air to gush in through the leak and continue doing so for too long because air is easier to pull than fuel. and the fuel doesnt get time to get back in and combust before the engine just dies (this "phenomenon" is why we have an accelerator pump) Rattle the PCV valve and make sure it rattles. if nto it may be stuck slightly open or be gummed up enough to cause a significant idle leak.

ive been tempted to make a video of the disassembly of the carb and explanation of each part as it is commonly requested, and i would ahve committed murder for someone to give me one when i needed it. but my upload bandwidth limits me, it would take 3 days to upload a 10 minute video, and it takes a good 10 minutes to disassemble it completely, not to mention id have to do the cliche youtube commentary.... /american acccent YEAH HIGH GUYS TODAY WERE GOING OT DISASSEMBLE THIS TOYOTA CARB, THIS IS MY CARB, YOURS MIGHT BE A LITTLE DIFFERENT lol Perhaps ill do a photo diary? Ill do it tomorrow! My fuel bowl is dirty from a shity fuel hose so its time i rip it out anyway.

eeeehh looks like money i don't have haha. I'm thinking id be better off going for an O2 sensor seeings I'm all about economy rather than performance so i ordered one to be delivered back in perth. bloody 250 bucks. it will be fun trying to make a threaded hole for it somewhere in the manifold.

i thought u did that on purpose. i like it and I'm using it from now on. i see calcium and lime as criminal. i have a real problem here in the jungle with lime and calcium in the water. people have their radiators pulled apart, rodded and aoldered back together HALF YEARLY here. its cheaper to do that than use decriminalised water.

hey a couple of sources i have read have stated that fine mist spray isnt actually good enough and that u should drop a vacuum tube into a glass of water and let it do its thing. i am not game on that idea, the vac advance tube sticks pretty damn hard to my hand. I'm fearfull of locking it up. have u been able to confirm carbon removal using the process? no one ever has any proof of concept so i tread with caution.

little red, exactly. i can't write a readable paragraph like u, so thank u for giving me the words to describe the stupidness of these suggestions. i actually also came across this crap it was listed as a list of symptoms and their causes. under the heading "engine deisels / runs on" it had all the normal causes but then seperately listed "timing too far advanced" and "vacuum advance broken" vac advance broken i completely understand. but "advanced timing" - my left testicle. buggered if i can actually find this stuff now. Its just had me stressed for so long and its good to see we all here agree that its nonsense.

I'm only asking out of interest because of all the nonsense my research into timing is finding. My motor is running frikn sweet these days. touch wood. but yeh damn, i did a head gasket change out on the farm on the bush basher corolla and recorded it. took about 45 minutes with a quick dirty valve cleanup. This engine is the best engine ever designed.

i guess i wanted to just out to bed this idea that advance is related to fuel mixture ratio. its not, its related to the amount of fuel mixture in the cylinder. in fact rich, can burn slower. take idle for example. we need the extra vacuum advance at idle because there isnt enough of anything to make a quick bang. its richer. not leaner. Most vacuum advance discussions, including all my historic ones on this forum, link to that one guys article, who incorrectly states that lean mixtures burn slower. You know the article I'm talking about. it has been quoted many times on this forum. anyway i intend to somehow setup a camera and get some video proof of idle advance and mixture when my i get back to aus and pick up my ridiculously expensive wideband o2 sensor and gauge. why are the so expensive??? i thought maybe because of zirconium price, but the USGS lists prices over the last 5 years at a steady 1000 bucks a ton. if the entire weight of an o2 sensor was zirconium metal, 2.4 ounces would be 7 cents. but i belive platinum is also used. banjo how much u pay for urs?

your point on advancing perhaps causing carbon deposits is pretty understandable... Mind you, the old trick of taking the car for a hard thrash to remove carbon takes advantage of braking carbon loose by subjecting it to sonic bangs from mild detonation. so id say detonation might, help the situation haha. maybe not extreme detonation, but no one would run their car like that..... or would they.

haha dave i get excited when i see ur avatar pop up that uve replied to one of my posts. sometime i think, maybe he really looks like timoen. :p u havent run into the garbage i come across. ive just read it so many times in forums while trying to so research on peoples 4 cylinder NA timing setups. I read it so many times that i started to believe it. but with a clear head, i wanted to make sure my pals here, couldnt give me a reason as to why these people may be correct. but yeh it appears there are more people who say "advance timing has nothing to do with run on" than the uninformed. ive been googling this morning and it seema for every incorrect poat, there are a few others who correct the person.

and someyhing else i wanted to discuss. vacuum advance, and mixture. there is an internet wide missconception that manifold vacuum advance at idle is for "the lean conditions at idle and light cruise" at idle, the mixture is actually richer than perfect, because the vacuum is pulling fuel out of the idle jet via negative static pressure. as opposed to any other throttle position which uses venturi (negative dynamic preasure). the "static" suction is acting on the fuel and pulls a eixh mix. remember mixture is how many parts weight air to fuel. i learned this in aircraft general knowledge but the principles still apply to the car engine. see this link. https://www.quora.com/What-is-the-ratio-of-air-fuel-mixture-during-idling-cruising-and-at-high-speeds So why do we have vacuum advance at idle, because there is simply less of everything, both air (containing oxygen) and fuel at idle, but much less air than fuel and this needs a head start. idle advance has nothing to so with a lean mixture. this is the first article ive read that is correct. Read it all. http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/engines-drivetrain/1607-tune-your-vacuum-advance-for-better-drivability/

well, no believe it or not, run on shouldnt happen. and the anti dieseling valve kinda hides the problem. but i was asking if anyone could explain where this idea of advanced timing causing miraculous magic combustion with no spark, comes from.

oh and before someone sais detonation causes hotspots and preignition. no. nonono. preignition can cause detonation detonation occurs after the spark and is a result of the spark starting the fire too early and then the flame front accelerating past the speed of sound due to the continually compressing mixture. but detonation doesnt cause hot spots, it just puts a holes in things or snaps things. is there any other reasons i havent thought of?

oh and also, g. do u get any detonation (pinging) h. cam work done? yes or no

interested in everyones timing specs for naturally aspirated relitively stock 4k timing setups. please list, a. distributor type and number of advance diaphragms, b. carburettor, c. static (engine off) timing d. initial timing and rpm (idle with all vacuum disconnected and plugged) e. if u have it, vacuumed timing and rpm (idle speed should be a bit higher than previous test) f. and finally, if u are able to give an idea of where your maximum no load timing is at... lets say, 4500 rpm with vacuum. ( u can see this by reving and holding at 4.5k rpm and waiting for MP to equalize so the vacuum has enough to pull the diaphragm) I have no access to a dyno or o2 readings, and really want to find out if i am at optimal timing throughout the rpm and manifold pressure range. Mostly for econony reasons, not so much performance, but the 2 kinda go hand in hand with a carb. We have no good stats on this, and if no one can help, I'm going to have to make a bunch of heath robinson contraptions in my jeep for "on the fly" timing adjustment to feel for best power. If we can get some good recommended stats, I think many people will benefit, not just me. Banjo, altezza, and other enthusiasts, u guys probably have these written on postit notes on ur computer monitors right?

What is the theory behind this fellas. When the key is turned off the coil is off. i call bullshit on the whole thing and say retarded timing = hotter hot spots which ignite fuel without a spark, so retarded timing causes run-on, not advanced timing. Where do these people (it seems everyone on the net) get this scenario and how can it be?

its always a heat shield!!

i went to the Cebuano equivalent of a jap wrecker in cebu city, and it was a warehouse like that. i wanted a brake caliper. the guy took my caliper, in his thongs and singlet with his cigarete, climbed up the stack of transmissions precariously balanced on one another, and just started digging. i though to myself how hopeless it was, considering the brakes are from a 1970s toyota cressida/ liteace. then he came up about a minute later with the calipers, and a bunch of other parts i MIGHT be interested in. this place is just amazing.

but seriously, the reason there is so much room uo front is because they used an old fabrication measurment table and mold for the grill and bonnet and mudguards left here in WW2 for the manufactur of willys jeeps locally. Thats just how it was then and they just stuck to it. This all happens in a place called Cavite on the island of Luzon. It is here, that u would all arive with a hard on. A sea container full of surplus 3k and 4k engines from japanese recyclers who get more money selling and shipping them to the philippines as engines, than just scrapping the metal.

nah haha. thats my wheel jack box, it is placed there for2 reasons. that position can handle the leaking hydraulic fluid from the shity jack, which would otherwise destroy the protective paint in the back, and the box assists in stopping air slipping past the gap there. i force it all through the radiator for maximum cooling. i was really happy when i found it sat there nicely. As for a 6 cylinder, there is plenty of room for a v6, but i have fallen in love with this engine. parts are everywhere here. 2 weeks ago, we had an incident with thw multicab, timing belt snapped. In the back of a trusty locals ute to get a replacement, at a sari sari store in the middle of nowhere where we got the belt, was parts for a toyota 4k , valve seals, rings, bearings, oil filter, and I'm sure i saw a f@@king clutch all nestled right behind the soy sauce and pancit canton.

yeh exactly slorolla, these motors are awesome. if i was on the mission to mars, i wouldnt let the rocket take off without a good supply of these motors.