rebuilder86

hehe i knew that would rowel a few people up, but honestly, so long as you are doing it on the compression stroke for the cylinder full of rope, its fine.

found it... here. http://www.derek.com.au/ignitioncoils.html table towards tge bottom of page. 8-10 k ohms so this is exactly the same as the junk i had in there before. so its not good enough. Its going to give the same reaukt as the bosxh which ive proven is a fail. shouldnt i be looking for a larger secondary with such a large primary?? 3 ohms primary and an 8kohm secondary is weak. I'm not yet convinced that the gt 40 will give enough spark. i just don't know enough about how this shit works and i don't think I'm capable of learning.

oh yes i know all about the ballast resistor and all that, the resistor I'm talking about and as shown in that diagram is actually different, its. a resistor between the coil positive and the igniter. i think to stop the igniter burning up. isnt it just 2 transistors?? so where u saying the gt40 is the one that ticks all the boxes? i like the sound of that because there is lots of into out there about that coil. however I'm not convinced thats the one for me, it is a 3 ohm primary when the stock igniter one is 1.5. that means it will prosuce less spark. ive got a 3 ohm coil here, the brazilian bosch one, and it gave a weak spark. i need 1.5 ohms. wait ive just worked it out. gt40 is ok. the test figures in the book for this dizzy are for a coil fitted with a ballast resistor. so that extra ballast would have taken the total resistance to about 3 ohms, like the gt40 is on its own. so my old bosch brazilian was probably giving poor spark due to a poor secondary winding. its only giving 8k ohms and igniter requires 10-15 k ohns according to the specs in the 4k book. now i cannot find any specs online for the secondary resistance of the gt40. everything talks aboutvthe gt40r. my god this ia the most difficult thing ive ever tried to inveatigate. juat tell me, whats a gt40 secondary measurement aupposed to be.

hahah banjo, stuffing cylinders 2 and 3 haha its not that simple no, u need to make sure the valves are closed. my bad thats just how i do it most of the time with FWD cars. cbf getting to the flywheel. I use the technique on Fwd vehicles where i can't use the starter motor and breaker technique. U just have to make sure its well stuffed and full of rope or wire, or else ull be putting the pressure down into the crankshaft and main bearings instead of off the the side for its leverage moment. does that make sense?

the coil i had in it before this CC215 was a bosch HEI but it measures 3 ohms across the terminals and 8k ohms for the secondary, so HEI doesnt automatically mean 0.5 ohms primary. or is this bosch fake and claiming HIGH ENERGY for the stupid south east asian market who don't know any different? or has it failed and now reading a higher impendance? model number F000 ZS0 027 K 12 V made in brazil appears that this old one i got here in cebu is listed for Fiat, seat, MG, porsche, TALBOT, renault, volvo, BM, mercedes benz, and alfa romeo. all very nice exotic cars, but completely random and nothing like the 1.5 ohms for an electronic ignition. All the listed compatible vehicles on ebay germany are old 1960-1980 points type distributor vehicles. so this isn't the one i want either. I remember it gave me a dull spark.

christ you know what, the whoel reason for me enquiring about this again is because I'm getting a slight stumble missfire sometimes adn was suspecting my coil. maybe i have allready screwed the igniter. FFS

a bit annoyed actually. I seeked help back in the day.. and this was the only coil anyone suggested.

right, i was hoping ud reply banjo. thats kind of annoying haha, someone on here recommended the CC215 for this dizzy. but yes my research last night also revealed that 0.5 ohm coils are not good for those POWERSPARK brand things, which i think work exactly the same as this dizzy, so it got me worried. Now u confirmed it and I'm taking your word as gospel. The last thing i need is for the dizzy igniter to shit itself, no change or a replacement here. would be just too hard. however, i read that i can just install a resistor in series with the igniter from the coil positive and everything will be hunky dory. who knows. Liek this

start the car with the socket and breaker on the nut and the handle on the ground. I'm serious. the starter motor is pretty powerful and coupled with its leverage on the flywheel can give more torque than your arms. if ur in a hurry it will work. if not that, then stuff some insulated electrical wire down the spark plug holes in 2 and 3 and short sharp blows to the breaker bar with a rubber mallet.

anybody here, particularly those of u with a 4age have this coil. its listed by fuelmiser as being for the AE82 4AGE, but I'm running it on a 4k with internal ignitor. I was hoping someone could tell me what their coil resistance is between the high tension port and the positive terminal. This is known as the secondary coil resistance. Mine is reading only 6k ohms but i believe the std 4Age coils are up at a minimum of 11k ohms, so imagine this replacent should be similar :/ but its not. the primary windings specs match just fine at 0.6 ohms. however the 4k handbook (ke70) shows the stock dizzy specs as follows for the 4k with igniter - 10-15k ohms without ignitor - 8-12 k ohms. now this is getting close but i have an electronic distributor with internal ignitor, i so i guess that means high ohms (more spark) is needed from the small 0.5 ohms primary coil. anyone have one (a fuelmiser cc215) that is relitively new they could test for me just to confirm that the one I'm running isnt just slightly shorted. ive sent an email to fuelmisers parent company but not heard anything back :( cheers

so is it perfect yet? or is it still missing a bit?

Try not to become fixated on what I am saying, but ensure u really thoroughly check that gasket. then PCV valve, shakes freely and blowing through it should be heavily restricted in one direction. Brake booster, (see if it happens more when u push the brakes, if so new booster needed) fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose ( a small leak here would have more effect on fuel pressure than the same size leak elsewhere, true fact) check those and get back to us.

yes thats the throttle gasket, I'm talking about the manifold to head one. For a small to medium leak this happens intermittently and more often when hot as the ECU goes into lean "closed loop" mode, and the lean mixture is more sensitive to a vacuum leak. So in most cases its the opposite to what u are describing about it happening more when cold. However if the leak is big enough it can transmit this varying vacuum signal to the fuel pressure regulator which causes that to start varying pressure aswell, which plays with the mixture a very large amount regardless of ecu open or closed loop. Then when it warms up, the injectors are open for less time, and the surging fuel pressure regulator is less pronounced.

what a shit around. haha. in ur original post about the running problems, didnt u mention that u had replaced the pump? how did u do it back then?

haha. then that means the cam lobe is pointing at the pump so move it another 180. each of these 180 turns will turn the lobe 90 degrees. so soon enough it will make room. ir ia designes to constanty apply pressure on the arm, so yes u will be tightening bolts against the tension on the arm

perhaps try turning the crankshaft 180 degrees and try again.

the cam may be in the middle of the pumping position forcing itself up i to the pump arm but so long as u have done what altezza said, just tighten it up anyway.

ah ok great so it looks like this... in that case its the same as mine and depending on ur engine its 2.5 turns for 4k or if u wanna be lame and run it like the californians with the 4k-C haha, its 1.5 turns. see screenshot below of the manual.

yeh mate look for thommo thompson in perth picture of me holding my baby boy. as for fuel pump. i don't know i havent mucked with them. I'm all for electric pumps! as for carby, there arr 2 variants of the twin choke standard. one vacuum diaphragm operated secondary, and one suction gravity operated. need to know which u have before suggesting a factory idle mixture setting.

I'm almost certain u have a large vac leak and it will be the intake manifold gasket itself. Usually a few mm of it gets sucked in from deterioration from oil and gasoline. If u had said u had code 31 with no noticable symptoms at idle i would have told u it was the MAP sensor itself. but the surging idle of up to 1500 rpm is in 95 % of cases a large vac leak. cet up close at idle and listen around the manifold connection.

which carb have u got? ig its the one with a vacuum diaphragm controlled secondary throat, and the external hot idle compensator with hoses running to it, then the stock mixture setting is actually 2.25 turns. if u have this one (its most popular) and u are getting a better idle leaning it in to 1.5 turns then id say u have a spark leakage problem.

haha ive wanted to set one of those sprayers up for climbing over the steep hills, but i did some experimenting with a hand sprayer and the water just goes straight through. i think u need a tonne of water and very very finely atomized spray and lots of it.

yeh agree with banjo. all my 4k overheating events are from gunk nesting in the downtubes of my radiator, and i have no thermostat. the gunk causea two things. 1. heat cannot conduct into these blocked parts of radiator and 2. the blockage forcea water to accelerate through the unblocked tubes which causea a decrease in heat transfer to those good areas, so a little bit of gunk has a multiple stage affect on cooling. i clean out my system with acidic flush once a year because every ml of water i can get my hands on is laden with lime and causes exactly the same symptoms u are referring to. the lime attacks the rust, the rust falls off and the calcium glues it to the copper radiator tubes. a standard alkaline radiator flush will not suffice. go for tectaloy hd2 flush

bugger it . can u just plug up the pcv pipe (in place of the pcv valve) temporarily and see if that fixes your engine dying issue. also, ive had 2 bolts come completely loose on manifold, both at the rear, and didnt notice anything. wasnt until i was doing my weekly lurk around the enngine bay that i saw the threads and laughed. Then i tightened them up as hard as i could with my fingers bent around down past the carburettor on a std size ratchet handle. I clearlu remember when i rebuilt the thing, torquing them up to spec but it still came loose. i have the one piece gasket so the one piece gasket as pictured must shrink after multiple heat cycles. that suggests to me they need to be retorqued after a few thousand kms.

r u hiro from whirlpool?