rebuilder86

the fact u can screw the idle mixture screw all the way in, means its running off the primary main jet instead of the idle circuit and slow jet. This is a problem. It needs the choke because at idle, the suction is normally caused by static pressure suction, and there is none of this at the primary main jet, unless the choke flap closes. Sowaht you need, is to check the idle circuit is operating. The little solenoid on the side of the carb, next to the choke system, should click when the cars igniton is turned to on. If not, somethign is wrong with the solenoid or the electrics. If it does click, then u can suspect hat the carburettr idle circuit is blocked. This is very common, as the jet for the slow idle circuit is incredibly small, and one piece of rubber from a fuel hose deteriorating is enough to completely block it. i suspect if u take the air filter off, and look down the carb with the engine idling, push the choke flap open quickly, u will see fuel running out of the main jet onto the throttle flap. If u see this, then thats the probem. The idle circuit needs to be repaired and the base idle screw set back to near closed.

hahah i would never have thoguht of clark rubber. i thought they sold pool noodles and mattresses haha I'm starting to feel like I'm very lazy, u knwo what i wouldve done....Ziptied it

Yeh mate i tried the parts guys at SCA also but they didnt even have the ability to search for a text string in their product database. Z423 it is!!

siiiiiick. u champion. haha i was so close to emailing them actually. but the way u worded it to them like, representing a community; is brilliant. I found it by searching for this text string on google "ryco oil filter with anti syphon valve" Page 2 of results for me had this summary text.. " www.alfaclubvic.org.au › ... › Technical › 900 Series (Alfasud, Alfasud Sprint, 33) Oct 29, 2013 - Re: Oil filter for 1988 33 1.7ie 8V. « Reply #3 on: October 30, 2013, 12:24:43 AM ». $55! What filter was that? Ryco lists a Z421 which has an anti siphon valve. Z89A is the same but without ASV. These are the big filters. There are small filters that match up also Z418 (without ASV), Z614 (with ASV). The list ..." http://www.alfaclubvic.org.au/forum/index.php?topic=11524.0 Then i checked the ryco cataloge adn found the dimensions were good enough for me.

Unfortunately supershit doeant stock the Z421 so there are no oil filters on the shelf with an anti syphone valve. This is the std 4k one, Z68. (see pic) U can see right through to the filter media. I suspect there is enough clearance in the crankshaft oil galleries for oil to just exit through the engine. I will have to special order a Z421, but not until i hav confirmation that they really do have both valves.

Ubdont have to cut one open. U can see both from the opening. Antidrain is the ring around the outside (inlet) and the antisyphon is the little valve immediately inside the centre outlet, and if it has one, u wouldnt be able to see the filter material. The latter is not on any ryco z68. So that thread u posted has some incorrect info in there. As for that little bit of info on this thread about all the valve types. That description of the anti syphon clears it up. I am loosing oil from the filter every night with a rubber anti drain valve. I will try this Z421 and let u know how it goes, in three months when I'm back in philippines. It could just be that all the cheap filters we get there are just junk and have crap anti drain valves, but when i took the filter off one morning, it was empty and so was the outlet side pipe on the engine. So that kind of indicates that i may be loosing oil through the outlet side. ie, syphoning, similar to what that FRAM info talks about with the turbo return line sucking the oil out. Speaking of which, i recently got an old 1999 ford transit turbo diesel and the filter is mounted sideways. Il be doing an oil and filter change soon so when i do il see if i can cut it up n take a photo of the valve. Heres what an anti syphon valve looks like. Look in the middle.

All filters have the anti drain back valve in the inlet. I was led to believe, some time ago, on this forum, that i may need the anti syphon valve aswell. This prompted me to research into it, and found that oil can still drain out through the outlet due to the height of the oil in the filter, compared to the height of the crankshaft and its oil galleries. This is why its called anti syphin. Go check out the link and read it, its for inverted filter layout, like our 4k, not upright layouts. It doesnt mean "anti syphoning out the top of the filter". Not sure what ur point was banjo. Anti syphon is exactly what we need. I think ive found one now. The only one in the ryco range with the anti syphon valve. Ryco z421. I'm going to get itbn see if it helps!

hahah wow u went to some SERIOUS efforts to edit that photo :P haahah I havent got a cowling on my jeep, and the only overheating ive had with its marginally performing cooling system has been under power going up hill at speed with plenty of airflow.. Its never overheated in traffic, and trust me, traffic is a daily thing where i live, in fact the worst traffic on planet earth...... http://newsinfo.inquirer.net/815278/traffic-app-waze-names-cebu-as-worst-city-to-drive-in

So I'm back in oz, and ive discovered tgat all this talk about a special filter with a special valve is all horseahit. All filters have anti drainback valve, some rubber, some silicone (better). But none of rycos filters on the shelf at supershit had an anti syphon valve as illustrated in their technical bulletin here: (page 2) https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.rycofilters.com.au/library/news/oil_filter_valves_technical_tips.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwiwwefq37nZAhUGpJQKHXdJC8wQFjACegQIBBAB&usg=AOvVaw1jIg5nE8qrCLEBwnZnVYLe Not a single filter had the anti syphon valve, and not a single filter doesnt have the anti drainback valve. Theyre all ezactly the same as the one i have in my engine now which suffers frim 5-8 second oil pressure delay after a cold start and the filter is always empty when i do a filter change (cold).

I don't beleive those readings. Is it possible to swap the temp sensor probes from front to rear around and test again, just in case the rear one is calibrated differently? or are they different threads? Then again, coolant that gets to the front, has in theory been exposed to the heat for longer with the new modified gaskets as it goes from the rear to the front of the head. The coolant going out the back has just come up from the block and gets to exit before it gets the opportunity to suck any more heat out the head. Its the difference in the actual head temp (between front n rear) that concerns me. notreally the coolant as such. It think... all the holes in the gasket should be drilled out, and the rear of the head should have another thermostat and coolant exit the same size as the front one. haha

here u go dood. Tridon do have the 71 degrees one. part number is TT240-160 FYI, all these will fit the k series... Temp. Part No. 71°C TT240-160 82°C TT240-180 89°C TT240-192 https://automotivesuperstore.com.au/tridon-tt240-160 $16

This is kinda opposite of what you experience banjo. Your coolant temp graph showed it took quite a while for yours to get up to these temps, so why is Viterbos getting up there so quickly, before the thermostat can react. Viterbo, id go a new 82 degree one and possible get a high flow one. high flow is probably more what your after. Tridon sell them. TT2040-180 - THERMOSTAT (HIGH FLOW) They flow more at all oopening ranges, meaninging the change in cooling effect is faster, but also allows the engine to cool better if the thermostat is maxed out, while still providing enough restriction to prevent air cavitation at the water pump. What your were probably told about was the 71 degree one from here... http://toyheadauto.com/PerformancePages/4K_AND_5K_High_Performance_Engine_Parts.html#4K_Heavy_Duty_Water_Pump_ $63 Which is actually this. https://www.rhdjapan.com/kameari-low-temperature-thermostat-carina-celica-starlet-sprinter-corolla.html $91 I have ordered one of these for my jeepey but damn its expensive haha. I'm doing it not becuase of an overheating issue, but because I'm tryign to run my engine cooler as its going to be slightly turbod. If i was worried it was going to get hotter than the thermostat could handle, I would have jsut gone and got the tridon high flow one from supershit.

ok so i think what i will do is. Return to cebu with my turbocharger which i am testing for an Australian turbo manufacturer. (don't ask, long story) I will install it with the existing setup, engine in poor state with poor compression ratio. The poor ratio will make the turbo able to run relitively reasonable bost without much danger of detonation. Then, once all testing is done, ill take the engine apart, measure the combustion chamber volume in the head and pistons, and work out the ratio. then do the same with the new head and work out the new ratio.

hahahaha. i think they are a little bit foolish for stacking al those usefull parts liek that, but they simply have no room. and the truth is, if you walked up to the manager in the back office with a sample part, he would remember what is under that pile and tel u if he has it or not. All the back is organized, but the marketing in this country is different. they liek to have as much stock visible from the street as possible, and it works; i wanted to walk inside to explore. i was rewarded by what i saw. What exactly are pushrods made of, it can't just be carbon steel, i left mine on the drivers seat while i was doing the head rebuild and there was no rust on them after a week in the humidity. I really trust the welders there. they are quite amazing. i recon they would sleave it and boodgie weld it. Maybe not goood enough to weld pushrods but i recon if one snapped, the valve would just close... maybe not?

I usually use locking grips on anything like this, clamp em on frikn tight, and put firm pressure on the end with your hands, and tap firmly the middle of he locking grips with a hammer. doing it that way seems to get it off first try. Brake lines, clutch lines, fuel lines and aircon. Bascally, what ive found is, sharp blows seem to work with o problems, whereas continuous torque force from leverage just destroys the hex head. but when that happens, u still have locking grips as an option.

Giday all. On my way out of cebu, back to perth, I went to the middle of hell, the streets of old cebu city, stopped in at all the stores that sell surplus engine parts and found the worlds holy grail of toyota k engine parts. ANGELS SING!! So, when i head back, i will have myself a correct 4K-U cylinder head, with the lugs under 1 and for indicating its for dished 4K-U pistons. FYI, this head was stamped number "1" so our wiki page is incorect. The combustion chamber section of the head is notably smaller in volume than my non twin squish head, designed for flat tops. In photos you cannot really tell, but when its in your hand, u can visually see with depth perception fro your 2 eyes, that the chamber is much smaller. My question to you all. How much of a difference do we all predict this will give me with economy and power? That is; going from the incorrect low compression setup, to the correct compression setup. I have no way of measuring power output, so i will be basing my findings on economy alone. Just wondering if anyone has any experience with this or has any idea how much improvement i might expect to see.. I believe i will have to do something with the push-rods as Banjo has warned me the thickness of this head would be different to that of a std flat top 4k head. Also the man at the suprlus store, in broken english, mentioned this head being different height to another (some other head, not specific). Our wiki page shows this information for push rods: 4K - 186mm 4K(with lugs) - 180mm 5K(solid lifter, D-Dish piston) - 180mm I didnt measure mine because i didnt think about this, but i think this data shows that the 4k with lugs (for dish pistons) would have a shallower head height... is this correct? If so I'm thinking ill be able to just cut and weld my pushrods down from 186 to 180 mm. Every second man is a welder with a welding shop where i live, so that wont be a problem. Further info for others. The Toyota genuine model number for a 4K-E head is exactly the same as that for a 5k head. this means heads will line up bolt together wiht differnet size blocks, and are relatively interchangeable with some other adjustments necessary. They share the same head, and compression ratio is just slightly different due to the bore size. the 5 k (d dish) has higher compression ratio (than 4KU D dish) purely because its bore size is larger. er

Yep that's what I find most frustrating about research in the net. It's so common for a very authorative looking source to be completely wrong, or simply miss the most important facts. Truely knowledgeable people don't tend to publish their knowledge on the net, and I suspect this is because it's boring to them, it's their job. However, enthusiast, hobbyists, and website advertising hungry original content providers will just do anything to make a website with click-bait style information. You've really got to find a good forum where people who specialise in an area hang out and talk. I don't think there is such a forum for automotive electrical though. I have a mate who is an electronics engineer, hes semi autistic and is on a first name basis with the electrons in a circuit. I'm lucky I have him available at request. He will find an absolutely false concept or explanation in any written online electronics information source. Apparently it's a very intricate and 4 dimensional subject which requires playing around and practice followed by theory and not the other way around. So I don't trust anything except my own interpretation of an electrical diagram nowadays. U can be guided by online I formation I guess, but it's mostly incomplete, and incomplete information leads to misunderstanding.

That's all I needed to hear to confirm what I thought. The caps must be so so close to perfectly symmetrical that they can be installed backwards and still somehow be turned untill a fraction of a barometer is worn off the bearings during it's first few hard starts. Good thing u didnt just loosen it a bit and say she'll be right haha.

Sweet as, but hang on, just so I understand. The symptoms were describes as a varying voltage which was making the lights go dim and bright right? Was the problem the faulty alternator, or the idle cable thing?? For the record, I find in ever car I've ever tested volts go down as u rev the engine. And I've aleays just accepted that's because the electrical system is being taxed by the coil working harder?? More sparks???

And do u think that like myaelf, before ur rebuild, it was turning fine, even with the caps on in the backwards orientation? If so have a look at the old big end bearings for us. I'm interested to see just how even the wear is. It blows my mind that somehow the engine ran nice n tight with the caps backwards for me.

So wholly shit, someone else experiencing my exact scenario. I honestly thought to myself that the stupid local filipino engine builders couldnt possibly be matched in stupidity in a First world country. And certainly didnt expect anyone to come across the same issue in the next month haha. Perhaps your engine comes from here haha.

Oh another one is socket interference. See pic below. But ud have to be pretty unlucky and careless to suffer that. Personally I've never been a victim of it, and I'm just a backyard engine rebuild with many rebuilds under my belt.

OP sais that which makes me think it's a home job, which will be fine, so long as the bearings and caps are all correct size and orientation. When I had the issue, I was doing one big end at a time, underneath the car, rotating the Assembly after each change, and noticed it was getting progressively more difficult to turn, and with all 4 don't the thing was completely jammed. Leaving me screaming in anger, dirty, tired fuxking frustrated and angry at myself for being a shit mechanic. But it was just all because I copied someone else's mistake. The big end caps were backwards all along, which was incresibly surprising, seeings as the wear in the bearings that came out, was visually perfectly even and it was previously perfectly easy to turn. That goes to show just how finely machined they are. They're almost perfectly symmetrical, but just not quite symmetrical enough to go on either any way. I have no idea how the engine builder managed to build mine with the caps backwards and have it apinning so freely, enough for it to last the 3 years minimum that I've had it with next to no wear, but replacing bearinga caused it to lock up. they would've had to run it loose and slowly tighten the caps as the bearings were worn haha. This is a big end bearing, from the cap side, from my motor which had all the caps backwards for 3 years or more... Looks relitively fine.

Haha I just had the same problem last month and posted about it on here. I had rebuilt it and installed the big end caps the same way they came off, which incidently happened to be backwards! And with the nice new bearings, it locked up. Check that the 3 lumps on the connecting rod big end caps are facing the front of the engine, and that the conrod is also facing forward. There should be some marks on the side of the caps which indicate the cap is aligned correctly with the conrod. So.. Piston one has one mark stamped on both the cap and rod on the same side. Piston 2 has 2 marks And so on

Actually here we go. Get this https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32803680129.html?trace=wwwdetail2mobilesitedetail&productId=32803680129&productSubject=NEW-HEATER-CONTROL-VALVE-F87Z-18495-AA-for-Ford-Explorer-Ranger-Aerostar-YG350-74809-15-5829&spm=2114.search0104.3.13.3aca4f1eH3tvNA&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_1_10065_10068_10344_10342_10343_10340_10341_10084_10083_10618_10307_10615_10313_10059_10534_100031_10103_441_10624_442_10623_10622_10621_10620_10142,searchweb201603_25,ppcSwitch_5&algo_expid=b544ab45-9d34-4f29-8303-711bbb1080e6-2&algo_pvid=b544ab45-9d34-4f29-8303-711bbb1080e6&priceBeautifyAB=0 And just remove the vacuum actuator and put the cable through there instead.