rebuilder86

see!

there it is

Yeh i saw 0 arching anywhere, and inside of cap is clean . i think ive found a potential problem.. no 2 spark plug is weaker than the rest when testing it straight from the main high tension lead. (bypassing the dizzy) However now I'm suspecting a sticking valve, as the stumble off idle is happening only off idle and i can hear it in the intake, i will tyr upload a video of the sound. you will LOL at my setup. RE, fuel pump, there is no way to blank off the hole properly with the fabrication skills available nearby, without it leaking like a seive, so the old pump is just attached with the arm ground off!! hahah JUNGLE styles. I was always planning on sticking the fuel pump back near the tank but too lazy and put it off until your wise words just egged me on. Ive always wanted it up in the engine bay away from water level, because ive had to replace one of the exact type before from crossing the river and water gets into the housing because its not a good seal coz its shit coz everything is shit in this country. I paid about the equivalent of 30 AU dollars for it and they re for sale on ebay for 15. Anyhow, that being said, I did make a waterproof case for it out of a wafer stick container. YES a plastic tube that you buy chocolate wafer sticks in haha Maybe if i just transfer that to the rear in that "WATERPROOF" case ill be ok going up long steep hills. Its also hot here so the road is ʞ©$ɟing hot so the fuel lien under vacuum would get ʞ©$ɟing hot which would further increase the risk of air bubbles. anywya a video of the sound is about to be posted stay tuned.

yep, in another thread i have a topic going about this missfire, I'm going to sit down and do the popper diagnosis today. Its not a huge miss, and not under load, mostly just coming off idle, and the whole time I'm driving its a tiny bit sad, but noticeable. ie,. trying some old but good spark plugs and watching to see if they give a better spark, and also throwing in the old incorrect bosch blue coil again and seeing if it give s brighter spark. The spark even to the eye is much duller than i remember from 8 months ago. either a. the coil has gone bad, or b. the plugs have gone bad from a wrong coil being used. Is that possible?

and remove the fun that is the K engine. NO THANKS, id get too bored without trying to keep it running! :P A std 4k engine was enough for my friend to roll our KE55 bash car onto its roof!

the interent is ʞ©$ɟing useless for research like this i need someone who knows what i need.

mine is reading primary 0.8 ohms, secondary 6000 ohms I'm trying to cross reffenece brands to get back to a bosh to compare as i have a spreadsheet of all bosch coils and their resistance readings, But hold on ive come across this application guide for fuelmiser coils, https://www.google.com.ph/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=3&ved=0ahUKEwjSqY-knL7SAhWHW5QKHeB_APoQFgglMAI&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.burpengaryautospares.com.au%2Fshop%2Fdownloads%2Ffuelmiser.pdf&usg=AFQjCNE4oljbS10al521R8ePjJgPKYfKSg&sig2=Sdtz8bBRnaVTt4Ie1yw1gQ&bvm=bv.148747831,d.dGo page 282 The closest i can find to my aplication is the colora AE82 4AGE, but the CC215 isa listed as being for EFI vehicles, and a different model (CC287) for carburettor variant. That is closer to what i am dealign with so perhaps i better change to that. Maybe carbies just run more rich and hurt coils more. OK for ʞ©$ɟ sake, 2 different sources show a CC287 as different types of coils. Ebay shows it as a single coilpack for one cylinder (attached to a spark plug connector, and some other source shows it as a standard external coil https://www.sparesbox.com.au/fuelmiser-ignition-coil-cc287-10066-cc287 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Fuelmiser-Ignition-Coil-CC287-/262042252328 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Fuelmiser-Ignition-Coil-CC287/152091956014?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20140106155344%26meid%3De3370cf382124b5293825a7cbfe1a6c8%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D262042252328 so which the ʞ©$ɟ is it then.

I have to bring back this thread, sorry. My jeepy with 4k engine (dished postons and therfore longreach plugs) is boging down and stumbling a bit and I'm suspecting the plugs are shot. The plugs are now only just over a year old. These long reach plugs are resistor type. I notice not all 4k engines use resistor type, just the ones with long reach, is suspect this is just because NGK only make the long reach in resistor format for a modern engine with onboard computers, as resistor spark plugs produce less interference to muck with on board computers. The coil is the fuelmiser cc215 0.9 ohms (primary resistance) electronic ignition coil recommended earlier in this post by GJM 85. GJM , can you tell me exactly what ohms a new coil of this spec should be giving me, i would like to test that the coil hasnt already failed, perhaps this is unable to live for long in a 5k electric dizzy setup. Something is wrong with my ignition. The leads are all within spec. Spark plugs shouldn't die this soon i don't think.

old thread, turns out the dash is out of a toyota cressida!! so was the braking system haha.

no sparks at all coming from anywhere, checkd at night, with water all over everything. Seems to be magically running a bit smoother now, I'm goign to guess the fuelmiser ignition coil is not correct for this engine. The spark plugs are resistor type, perhaps that ʞ©$ɟs up the coil.

ahh i see what you mean, perhaps the bloke i know with a 7k block just ignored those extra hols, theres actually 3 extra bolts in the pics i am looking at not full length torque out head bolts tho. i guess there could be some serious oil leaks without them, but no problems with internal combustion process. Also, this is the Philippines, what is a car without a good oil leak. They don't even sell oil sump plug washers anywhere in this country. Simply not available. Therefor the m,ost basic servicing, an oi change, can not be done successfully here unless you have a new car being serviced at the dealership! On my 4k i have to run a ʞ©$ɟing o ring around the thread. some geniuses use teflon thread tape on the threads!!!, which does sweet f all.

u sure of that, ive seen 3k heads on a 7k block. what would they have had to do to make it work? haha 2 extra head bolts is a bit of a show stopper haha.

HI jason, I'm jeremy from cebu, well , toledo. you can, just make sure you do your research for the Head gasket to use. the bore size is of course different, so of course you want to make sure you are using a 7k head gasket, but make sure it all lines up. any water passages may have slightly different holes, thats ok, as long as it passes some water through. Also, some advice about our water, don't skimp on coolant and distilled water! previous owner before me did with my owner jeep and i am now paying for it. the lime screws with everything in this engine.

hey banjo, long time no seak! i haven't had a chance to do anything yet, but that is exactly what i plan to do tonight. Interestingly, on the way across the island to the city yesterday, i had 2 cut outs, where we were driving up a steep hill for over a minute with 70 % power at about 30 kph, and it died. Now i am suspicious this is an unrelated issue with fuel supply, it seemed like the bowl was getting emptied before the electronic fuel pump could fill it. let it sit for a minute then started off again and it did it one more time on the climb, but then never again and it was fine. My fuel pump is located in the engine bay which is probably a bad idea for an electronic piston plunger pump. The whole way back it felt a little lumpy at idle, and a little jerky , like the power isn't smooth. IS there any way you couldnt see it at night, even with misty water sprayed over everything? liek perhaps if it is somehow arching from the rotor cap down to the dizzy body inside the cap??

So i posted a topic about a sever hesitation when cold for my GFs dad, and now i am having my own hesitation problems with my 4K. setup: 4k with dished pistons, functioning 3k carb (fully functioning, accel pump, idles goood, no leaks) correct long reach plugs, (one of which is missing a bit of insulator near the wire connection, but has never presented an issue and another which is reading significantly less resistance from the tip to the connection than the other and is also providing a less bright spark than the others when crank testing) cheap silicone HT leads 5k electronic dizzy fuelmiser ignition coil to suit said dizzy description of problem At rest, standing by the engine, engine at operating temp, turning the throttle by hand in one constant smooth motion from idle (600 rpm) up to 2000 rpm in about 1.5 seconds, at about the 1200 rpm mark there is a small but noticeable stumble. I guess kinda like only one cylinder is skipping one beat (perhaps that shitty spark plug). How can this be at this exact rpm with no load, perhaps a spark plug is indeed just shit and at that condition, the stars align and the wave of pressure is high enough and the condition of the mix is rich enough to put out the spark?? I will find the spark plug with the lower resistance and come back to you all with the outcome.

figured it out, first time in my life ive had to actually replace an ignition lead. Sprayed some water mist around the main high tension lead from the coil, and saw sparks flying everywhere.. some bright spark mechanic has installed a lead which is clearly too long and tied it in a knot (yes a knot) around a metal linkage to the carby!!!

I did post this in non Toyota, but that doesn't show up in anyone activity feed, so i got 0 views over 12 hours. I have a question for those with points type ignitions. My GFs dads car is playing up a bit when cold. IIts a suzuki Multicab wiht a 3 clinder 12 valve engine. Has a nasty missfire. It had this missfire a couple of days ago and i fixed it by hammering the spark gaps back down to recommended spec (0.8mm) from about 1.2mm. This fixed it and everyone was happy. Now its started again jsut now as he drove off to the shops.. I'm certain its spark related. Not sure if it has points, but am willing to look. My question is, has anyone had an issue where at startup and fairly cold, the points have caused an issue which slowly goes away once hot? Perhaps this carby has a cold or hot idle compensator to add more fuel when cold (or more air when hot) to keep it running, and this rich mixture doesn't like to be burnt with the shitty ignition being supplied from the worn points? but when its hot enough, it goes back to normal mixture and is fine maybe??? If it doesnt have points, i guess the only possible cause would be a faulty coil. How do i know its spark related, because i adjusted the spark gaps the other day and that fixed the issue, up until now. I don't think he plugs positive electrodes would have worn down in the small amount of driving he has done since i did that. So i can rule out worn plugs.

I have a question for those with points type ignitions. My GFs dads car is playing up a bit when cold. IIts a suzuki Multicab wiht a 3 clinder 12 valve engine. Has a nasty missfire. It had this missfire a couple of days ago and i fixed it by hammering the spark gaps back down to recommended spec (0.8mm) from about 1.2mm. This fixed it and everyone was happy. Now its started again jsut now as he drove off to the shops.. I'm certain its spark related. Not sure if it has points, but am willing to look. My question is, has anyone had an issue where at startup and fairly cold, the points have caused an issue which slowly goes away once hot? Perhaps this carby has a cold or hot idle compensator to add more fuel when cold (or more air when hot) to keep it running, and this rich mixture doesn't like to be burnt with the shitty ignition being supplied from the worn points? but when its hot enough, it goes back to normal mixture and is fine maybe??? If it doesnt have points, i guess the only possible cause would be a faulty coil. How do i know its spark related, because i adjusted the spark gaps the other day and that fixed the issue, up until now. I don't think he plugs positive electrodes would have worn down in the small amount of driving he has done since i did that. So i can rule out worn plugs.

everything i learned about EFI and modern engines has taught me the charcoal canisters soul purpose was for fuel vapours, which is an environmental issue. My fuel fuel tank vents nowhere. It has no vent. To be honest; I'm glad that its stuck in there (the fuel), the bastard can burn as it is. Fuel tank also now has a rust hole in he top of it so don't take any of this as any advice for removing charcoal canisters hahah.

u know, its possible to run with no vacuum hoses on a 3k carby. Vacuum advance doesn't actually advance anything during performance engine conditions, only really does anything at closed throttle. Charcoal canister?? PHHHT "SAVE THE KOALAS" a different way, stop cutting down trees.

KE55 does have a lot of hoses haha. Its like a vaccumanical computer. If they are all working currently, try to maintain that. The systems that they operate greatly improve fuel efficiency, not just emissions. This is just an opinion, but don't remove/plug them unless there is something broken that they operate and you cannot easily replace it. I did away with my 4K carby on the farm car (KE55) and switched to the simple 3K carb which has NO vacuum lines to operate it. Its all internal passages. Just one going to the dizzy for idle advance and of course the PCV hose and brake booster, if you classify them as vacuum hoses. (i don't)

well i hope so for your sake, coz its a KENT to take apart the carby and fix all those issues, essentially if u can't solve this problem from outside, just buy a cheap replacement 3k carby on ebay. China has them for like 100 bucks now! seriously.

so the secret places ive found vacuum leaks are inside the carby!! which take air from within the normal airflow so you can't test for them. 1. hot idle compensator rubber valve under the little plate with 3 screws on the side of the carb (stuck open or simply leaking) 2. 2ND barrel butterfly valve 3. Power valve piston air bleed port due to worn power piston or walls 4. gasket between the bottom plate and main carby body leaking into the manifold area. 5. PCV valve itself, it may shake and appear corret based on the standard tetsing procedures, but i managed to only solve my biggest idling issue by creating a plastic seat inside my dissmantle-able PCV valve, which gives a near perfect seal under high vacuum idle conditions. The standard PCV valve does not. This is especially useful (required) if running a 3K carb on a bored out 3k block, or a 4K block. And if you're really unlucky you will have what i had, where the intake valve guides and seals have been destroyed at the same time from use of a synthetic oil in this ʞ©$ɟing engine. This will be evident pretty soon with blue smoke out the exhaust. HOW IS THIS POSSIBLE YOU ASK? Synthetic oil does 2 bad things for this engine, 1. looses pressure to the top of the engine dramatically, and 2. warps the valve stem seals. those two things cause 2 severe issues, 1. no oil pressure at top end means hot as top end and also a lateral force applied to the valves by the rocker arms, du e to shit lubrication, which causes valve shafts to expand and damage the guides the ability for synthetic oil to move more freely ( do not tell me it doesn't you are wrong) for a given viscosity compared to mineral oil, makes it loose pressure in the journals of stock engines. These engines have relatively loose bearing journals from factory. 2. synthetic oil will warp valve stem seals if they are allowed to be expanded lateraly from the above issue

strange, i don't even have a gasket there and i have no issues. Have you got a photo of that area you could post?? please? I simply have a big rubber block thing with a metal plate sticking out of it, which encompasses the manifold vacuum port and the PCV hose connection. My carby is bolted straight through that to the manifold, no gasket. Speaking of which, what is this thing called? Thermal Spacer?? I think its plastic moulded around a metal plate.

well, hang on , back to the basics, we have no idea what your technical knowledge is. Are you familiar with the idle speed and idle mixture screws? If so, are you adamant that they are set where they should be? Take the carby off , look up the bottom of it, and check that the base idle speed screw is set such that the throttle plate is literally resting just about touching the transfer slot hole in the side of the well. You can recognise the transfer slot by finding the idle mixture screw port and finding the little elliptical port just above that. (above as if the carby were installed in the upright position) Then when you are sure there is an idle issue, we can assist.