machg

Good point, didn't know that...the unreliability issues I have heard of with 2zz's usually relate to modified engines, I think they're O.K. if you leave them stock standard.

Probably not done often as Toyota already has a similar, higher-spec engine already set up for rwd duties; the BEAMS 3sge from the JDM RS 200 Altezza.

Maybe Australian Air Express if you can get stuff to airports, may be a bit cheaper that way?

I fully understand your general recessing principle, but it seems to make fabrication a lot more difficult (especially if you don't have the specialist tools). Could you achieve the same sort of result using two patches, one cut to fit the hole neatly, and another larger one to tack (or tack and seam weld?) in behind? What would be the advantages/disadvantages of using two patches? Cheers, Mark G.

You could try just cracking the fitting on the back on the caliper, pumping some fluid through, that may help clear any bubbles from the lines, but not the calipers. Be warned; if the bleed nipples were siezed, the fittings on the back of the caliper are probably stuffed too, I'd be leaving it to a brake specialist. Its the one thing you don't take chances with.

Just in case you have too much money... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=brZ0BYgV9u0...feature=related don't know if its for real though

I am here too much

So the patch is larger than the hole, and you use the recessing so the recessed area is close in shape to the hole, you tack the patch in then run a seam weld in the gap between the recessed area on the patch and the edge of the hole?

I have got a huge resto project coming. Your repair looks pretty good to me, what did you use? Oxy? MIG? (With Gas or gasless wire?)

Sorry dude, just realised this isn't a for sale section, I'll drop in to Jamagic and see you. :)

Price? O.K.; How about $200 (and any spares I have that you may want) assuming it has nothing "terminal" (bent chassis or un-fixable structural rust), if this is insulting, post a bloody price!

Yeah, don't keep us in suspense, details, pics, price, etc. :)

No-one knows this guy's number! Oh, well never mind.

Another idea relating to induction design (if you have the room): operate the supercharger and turbo completely independently of each other. Run a blow-off valve on the supercharger side. On the intake plenum, mount a throttle body on each end, with two stroke style reed valve after the throttle bodies on both ends. On the turbo end have a blow off valve set up to work in reverse. How it could work is at low rpm, the supercharger will make more boost than the turbo, so on the supercharger side the blow off valve is closed, and the air is blowing into the plenum on the supercharger side. The turbo side has the blow off valve open, allowing it to build boost. The boost pressure is trapped in the plenum by the reed valve on the turbo end. At high rpm (or whenever turbo boost > supercharger boost) the supercharger blow off valve opens venting boost, the turbo blow off closes, pressurising the turbo induction side allowing boost to enter on turbo side of plenum, the reed valve on supercharger side closes trapping boost. The problems would be having to rig up cables for two throttle bodies, room and flow restrictions caused by the reed valves. You could do the same thing with a "2 into 1" pipe with an electronically controlled vane valve, and single throttle body. Actually, maybe a vane valve, lightly sprung to be in the middle (half open half closed on both sides) would do the trick.

G'day all, got sick of waiting to hear from this guy, so I'm buying another shell instead.