Sportivo_65

Let's hope thats the last of it hey...!! As I said, we did exactly that with mine and it wasn't the end of the trouble... So just cross your fingers and hope yours was the easy fix, if so you're luck!! What what Teddy said was exactly what I was trying to say... Obviously I'm not a professional though so it must have made no sense. Why the ECU re-set if all it needed was a dizzy to be replaced?

How'd you get it to the workshop though?? Mine was a major mission, it was stalling every 50m, and stalled 3 times getting her on the car trailer to have her towed to the workshop!!!! It was just doing it ALL THE TIME in the later days, hot or cold, it started happening more frequently.

Having been through it, I totally agree Teddy. I had written a reply today but deleted it and decided not to post it, but basically it was this: I'd hate to see you, Lesley, spend money on time spent with the car in workshop's being diagnosed. I believe the chances of it being the same issue as mine is very great, and I'd like to help save you some money, time and HEARTACHE!! Questions: When the car shut down, and then when an attempt was made to start it again straight away, can you tell me if the check engine light was illuminated or not?? Basically what I found with mine was, when the car did its shut down thing, when you'd try to start it again straight away - the check engine light WAS NOT ILLUMINATED. But upon starting the car again the next time successfully, the check engine light WAS ILLUMINATED, as it always should be when the ignition is turned on. So, we came to the conclusion that the car wouldn't start unless that light was on, as per usual. Suggestions for this being a symptom (and with mine - not showing codes) was this: That the computer was registering a fault (the wattage spike I was talking about) and then shutting down before giving itself time to log a code. Then on engaging the ignition again (immediately), the light wasn't on indicating that possibly the computer itself wasn't yet 're-booted' from the fail. If that makes sense... Once this spike happened again (from components getting hot on the computers board) the computer would just shut down. Now that that part on the board of the computer has been replaced, I've had 6 months of happy driving *touches wood* :rock: Anyways, could be completely different with yours, as its logging a code, mine wasn't; and I could be completely wrong, I'm not an expert. But I care and I just don't want to see you go through the same thing I have, and I know others have, with these Sportivo's. I guess, if it was me, its a cheap enough exercise to test the dizzy, make sure all is fine there, rotor button etc. That's what we did, it was a starting point and process of illumination. Got a secondhand dizzy from the wreckers, and now I've got a spare :wub:, but even with a new dizzy on it it still faulted with no codes. If the people you've got your car with get stuck, please let me know. I don't mind giving you the details of the shop here in Brisbane which fixed my computer, so they can maybe talk to the guys down there, or send it up even to have that component replaced. Best of luck luv, and please keep us posted. Julez :P

Cool. Best of luck.

How many k's has your girl done luv? Mine did this at about 130,000 I think it was.

And I bet its not throwing codes and there's no warning signs its about to do it, is there??? That problem with mine was a problem on the actual chip board in the computer, had to be repaired by an auto-electronics place who replaced the solinoid.condensor thing on the board, and *touch wood* its been running like a dream ever since. It was a problem with over-wattage getting through to a condensor that wasn't ment to have that volume or watts, and it was frying the part, and shutting the computer down, but since that parts been repaired its been fine!!! I'm not happy to hear that its doing it, but I'm interested that yours is doing it too! Please let me know how you go huni!! And I'd be asking someone to open the computer and inspect the board, save yourself some time and money having in workshops and them doing tests on it that aren't gonna tell you shit, as I'd be very surprised if thats not the problem.

I've kinda be stopped in my tracks regarding this hey. I was hoping to get some prices from both the Mt Cotton centre and the Gympie centre and make some decisions with the help of you all from there. But I've contacted 'Road Craft' a number of times now and haven't heard a thing back, and the last time their website was updated was 2005. So either I'm not contacted the right place or they aren't doing it anymore :-( Which means, its really only the Mt Cotton centre thats an option, but my concern is the noise restrictions. I shall contact Mt Cotton again and check some dates etc, post up some more info, and I'll try and contact Road Craft again. Thats the plan for now, if anyone has any other way to contact Gympie please let me know.

You got any pics of the CAI set up you've done?? I'm assuming you've set something up down closer to the turbo?? Where'd you track down your replacement piping from??? Saw the updated pics of the engine bay - looks great.

Well they seemed to not work in my car, and I hated it, so now I'd rather pay for new standard 'what ever brand or make they are' plugs every 40,000 odd ks (the whole $12 that they cost) than have the car faulting like it was at high rpm (when I don't want it to be faulting)... Maybe the set of Iridiums that were it in were dodgy, maybe my motor just likes being a pain. But its working with what Toyota have supplied me and so I'm a very happy camper, and will stick to that.

Howdy Folks, Just an update for those playing at home, after finally getting ROL14 back on the road and having the front bar repaired, we've managed to fix the 'hesitating problem'. It turns out it was spark plugs. When I bought the car it had Iridium plugs (not sure if I spelt that right) fitted. I've since found out from some other turbo car owners and for myself that these plugs are not suited to turbo engines. Its to do with the strenght of the spark at high rpm which isn't strong enough for boosted engines. So we rang Toyota, gave them the VIN number and ordered a 'stock' set (prob Denso's or something) of plugs, which have now been fitted and the car is running like her dreamy usual self again!!!! :y::D:D

Hi Folks, I've initiated this event on TOCAU and twincam and thought I'd see ift there was any interest here too while I'm at it. I noticed a thread on here from earlier this month that seemed to not go anywhere so figured it would be ok to post this here. Not meaning to steal anyones thunder, just thought I'd let you guys in on the fun too if you wanted. I just wanted to get a 'show of hands' so to speak on who would be interested in attending a Skid Pan/Driver Training Day. I would need to confirm dates and costs with the venue/training provider of course. So, right now I'm thinking about organising it so we can go to the Mt Cotton Driver Training but I also know there's one at Gympie. Not sure what the general opinion is of driving that far though. But before I do anything I'd need to know how many people are actually keen to be involved, but I've been to one at the Gympie skid pan day before and the participants paid about $100 each. I've just looked on a couple of websites and for an individual to go independantly through a training provider you'd be looking at $200. But I'm sure if we had a big enough group the price wouldn't be that high. So, let me know if your interested and then when I've got minimum of 15 people I'll make some calls. I know 15 sounds like a lot but with these events usually the best group size is 10 (for price and comfort on the day etc). And also taking into account dates and prices might not suit all after they are confirmed and some will pull out, I figure 15's a good number to aim for to get the ball rolling. Cheers, Julez PS - If I've forgotten anything or if anyone has any other ideas etc please make a mention as I don't bite. Just thought it was something different and fun we could all get involved in!!

Yeah, I got one. Just before I opened it I read this topic. Thanks :D

I should add though, the hesitation at high rpm is still there... But after having the car off the road for just over a month, I'm willing to over look that and not really worry about it just yet. As again, that would be a whole heap of different things...

Just thought I'd give you folks an update. The car has been fixed. Components in the computer itself were replaced and things seem to be going so far so good. There were spikes of volts getting through which certain parts couldn't handle therefore shutting the car down as a precaution.

I wasn't meaning that 'I was expecting Toyota to warrant the car' - that is just silly. I was merely saying that knowing there's been a couple of this same age (k's), make and model, that maybe Toyota might like to do a little more about it then wipe their hands. That's all.

It was an intermittent shutting down problem. The car idled and ran perfectly. Just something in the computer was shutting down the car's spark and injector pulse and then not allowing the car to be started at all for a few moments. Which is why I said 'limited make' as everyone who we've spoken to about it or shown hasn't seen that problem before, yet there's three cars of my same model/make thats has this, and at the same amount of k's. We've had the computer out and have looked at it, and there is a corroded cap/chip there - you can see it. I didn't get a chance to get a pic though :no2:. The computer is with an autolek now though. Repairing/replacing caps - isn't that something that someone with some experience or expertiese and know how should do? I'm assuming if its not done right that that could have many more effects on other areas of the computer?

lmao um... :hmm: Now I reallly should get a sticker for it 'Golden NUGGET'... lol And I know, I can't believe it... I can't believe that this kind of thing can happen an just because they are a limited make, Toyota do nothing about it, don't wanna know about it. I've got a mate in Rochedale (near me in Brisbane) who's now having the same random stalling problem. So its obviously a design fault with that compondent in the computer but just because I'm not the original owner or there's no longer 'new car' warranty on the car - no one wants to know about it. That sort of fault shouldn't happen. Its :no2: that it has, but I don't think its good enough *end rant* terminal's, mine and scotty's (my mate) cars have all done the same amount (ish) of k's also - around that 130,000 and they have played up... I don't think that's coincidence...

So what did you decide 'africanmarty'...??

It was Friday 13th, a little while ago now. but anyways... I saw a yellow ke70 with a yellow 'rollaclub' sticker in the middle of the top of the rear window driving Northbound on Creek Road, past Westfield Carindale at about 3-3:30ish... I'm sure it was someone who frequents here... Just can't rememberwho :hmm:

We're still working on it orangeLJ. The computer is being inspected today/tomorrow by yet another autolek. We have confirmed that is a compondent on the board of the computer thats corroded/failing. So we're finding out in the next couple of days whether this can be replaced or not. Apparently though, it might not be as simple as just replacing that compondent, as they may have been damage done to other circuits running before and after this fault in the computer. So to be honest I'm kinda not really keen to just replace that compondent if thats he case. I'm keen to just replace the computer with a Motec sytem and be done with it. Its a system I'd feel more comfortable with and a system thats at least more reliable then my stock computer has been. So ROL14's sitting at home in my garage til I can give her a brain back again and then she'll be ALIVE!!! lol

Update: After reading through terminals thread and contacting another Sportivo owner close to me (with the same amount of k's and exactly the same 'shutting down intermittently' problem) ... its been confirmed by everyone except Toyota that it is a fault with the ECU. I still have a Motoranma used car warranty which will cover up to $2,000 worth of repairs... Toyota's RRP for a replacement ECU is $12,000 (price quoted to my mechanic). But based on terminals thread, a special price request was put in and Toyota have come to the party at $5,500. This part is not available from Toyota in Australia. It has not been confirmed yet as to weather this would come from Toyota Japan 'off the shelf' or if it needs to be 'made on demand' from Toyota Japan (via TOM's UK I guess - as terminals thread mentions). After speaking with a number of ver capable Autolek's in Brisbane, the general censis is that Toyota computers aren't as 'fixable' as say Nissan computers... And that unless the repairer has access to the correct 'mappin' (there's another word but I can't think of it) they can't really do much. So I gues the decision is: 1. Have Toyota replace the part under my used car warranty and be $3,500 out of pocket myself... .Not sure if I'm too keen on this idea for the money factor and what guarantee will I have that the replacement factory ECU won't fail again after 130,000 odd k's... None... 2. Replace with an aftermarket ECU and pay for this to be done myself... Cons: only 12mths warranty on the unit, dyno time required for tuning = $$$, finding someone down the track who'll still repair the choosen aftermarket ECU. Pros: tuneability later if I do mods...

They only released 110 for SALE, so its not that they didn't sell well, they were limited to start with... How do you know they've had 'most of them coming back for repairs'?

Thanks for the help folks... UPDATE: We changed the whole distributor with one from the wreckers off a corolla which had only done 50,000ks. The car was driving for prob about 150ks and never played up once, and then with no warning, it shut down again - same as before. Basically we've narrowed it down to: -anywhere (stationary with engine idling or while driving along in gear) -anytime (day or night, hot or cold, rain or shine) -without warning (car doesn't jerk, no lights flicker and nothing bizarre happens - it just shuts down) -its like something in the electrics sends a signal as if you've turned the ignition off and it kills the spark and the injector pulse -if you go to start the car straight away the engine light wont come on with the rest of the lights on accessories and it cranks but doesn't fire -if you wait a few moments and then go to start the car the engine light will be on with the read of the lights on accessories and it will start -then it could run fine for how ever long it chooses until it shuts down again and the cycle continues... People who have looked at it seem to think that its the actual computer internally which may be causing a problem... somewhere, somehow... So we might have to remove the computer and ignition switch and send them to Toyota for a look... Not really sure yet. In other news: I'm in the market for a daily driver...

Has anyone else on here heard of imobiliers breaking down and causing this 'shutting down' type problem? Either in a AE112 or any other vehicle?

Sorry, let me rephrase it... The car HADN'T played up again... But as my previous posts suggest, to date, the car hasn't been playing up with any routine anyways, so the fact that I'd been driving it Friday and it hadn't played up means nothing. The cars own diagnostic system was checked on Thursday (as stated in my previous post) and no flashes came up to indicate a problem. Its not a matter of not listening to the forums suggestions, it a matter of telling the forum what we've done and eliminating suggestions made by forum members. We did have the scan tool connected when the car shut down and afterwards, the data hadn't changed at all.