Sportivo_65

So, Friday I had the car back and it was driving fine, wasn't playing up at all. So Friday night we hooked a scanner / computer to the car and requested fault codes - there were none. While we had the computer connected the car shut down, a number of times and there was still no fault codes showing. We checked the spark at this point and there wasn't one. So we pulled the dizzy cap off and searched for any marks or cracks. We found a very very small hairline crack. So Saturday morning we drove to Slacks Creek and picked up a new dizzy cap and rotor button. Drove home, put the dizzy cap on and my brother too it for a test drive, once he got home and parked the car, it idled for about 2mins in the garage and then stalled. It has been consistently playing up since then. It'll idle for how ever long, then shut down, then you can't start it for a while, then it'll start and cycle continues. We decided we'd get the car to my brother workshop so his electrician could look at it. We made it from Capalaba to Belmont and it had already shut down about 5 times along the road. So we tracked down a car trailer and it shut down three times just getting it on the trailer... So its now in the hands of the auto electrician to have fun with and diagnose...

Update: Throttle body / butterfly has been cleaned as it had quite a bit of carbon built up in it. So the car idles a lot better now and is running alot smoother and we think this will solve the random stalling here and there. The clutch has been adjusted a bit as it was getting sloppy. Checked diagnostics for codes- nothing came up. Check the spark plugs - they are clean as. Battery - putting out the correct charge / working fine. So we're still left with the issue of the car 'choking' at high rpm's/heavy load. We thought this model had an in-tank fuel filter which would need changing but after Toyota looking into it, we've found out they don't. And that was our only real theory. So yeah, now we're back to square one :)

No worries, I can understand your frustration! As I mentioned, my brother is a/and my mechanic and he will be looking at the car, he just hasn't had a change with getting back to work and finishing customers cars etc. He didn't think plugging into the computer would help any. He seemed to think that if an error code was logged, that the engine light would come on. In this case my engine light isn't on, which he suspects would mean no codes have been logged. Do you agree? Does the engine light ALWAYS come on no matter what code has been logged?? Obviously there's only one way to find out, plug in and see... But yeah, he's not an auto sparky, he's a mechanic. The other thing I wanted to know was (after browsing through the FAQ section of the site), for my model how will I know what codes mean what?? Where would I get a list of these? Just contact Toyota? Cause I'm assuming there would be different codes for my model compared to the Conquest/Levin models...

I do realise all of the above, 'Trev' but thanks for pointing that out... However, being 'rollaclub' and being a forum where people are invited/entitled to post technical/mechanical questions for open discussion with other members who are of more knowledge, I thought I'd be able to post it up, put it out there see what people thought and get a hand to fix my car. Of course I realise its not an easy system. Its not like I'm asking to change a headlight, or 'what mod should I do next'... I figured it was a justified question. :( Good advise though, I should take it somewhere so someone can have a good look at it, I never thought of that... ;) Thank you to those who offered constructive comments, I appreciate your thoughts and time ;)

"Cost twice as much to fix the problem" - not that I'm wanting to do it cheap, but if the money doesn't have to be spent why spend it? At this stage we're just trying to isolate where the problem could be to try some minor tests at home to save taking it to a Toyota Dealer... Thats an absolute last resort I hope. They run a MAP sensor... Yeah, that seems to be the general idea... I'm in the Redlands... But if my brother takes the car to work to run tests it'll be at Enoggera so I'll pm you for their details in case my bro wants to try them :( Thanks - I just want my baby fixed ;)

When I said the tacho's 'dropped' I meant like when you turn the car off, the tacho just was like 'bang' and it was down. Like if didn't go down slowly and then stall... If it was a bad earth or the battery terminals wouldn't it be stalling or playing up much more regularly? NB: It has been idling all over the place lately too. I say all over the place, I mean it always used to idle at about 900-1000, more lately its been idling at about 750 and fluctuates up to about 900 if I've got the air con on. But thanks heaps, keep the ideas coming, cause this one has us stumped. I'll keep you updated with what happens too!

Temp is normal, all the time. Normally, under general driving the car runs fine. Its not chewing fuel or missing or doing anything else unusual. Its cranking over yeah, just not firing...

So, some of you may have noticed me rudely hijacking SoulSearchers thread, so I thought I should start my own... ;) I have some issues with my Sportivo which I'm looking for theorys on if anyone has any. Problem #1: Its choking horribly at high rpm and loses power. Thats the main problem that I want fixed as I wanted to get her on the track soon but can't until this is fixed. I had a Bosch BOV on it and the car would hold til about 5 and then start chocking and jerking. A friend of mine who Rally's a Evo 6 suggested it could be the crap spring in the BOV so we took it off and returned the cap over that outlet in the pipeing. The problem is still there but now its changed. If I'm driving along the highway for example and want to get around a slow vehicle etc, I drop it back to 3rd and stomp on it, the car just starts choking as soon as I let my foot off the clutch. I have to back right off and go to 4th before it settles down. Suggestions: Driver asking too much of the car (suggested by my brother the mechanic who obviously doesn't wanna fix it) Fuel feed problem (install a Bosch external fuel pump) Injectors / Plugs (check plugs and make sure they aren't white or black. Also check there aren't 'detination' marks on the plugs) Car running too much boost and when under higher rpm's its leaning out and choking (install boost gauge and check what boost its running and make sure its not over boosting - as this will cause heaps of issues) Map Sensor / Air flow meter Problem #2: Now also its started stalling randomly and then wont start again. Like when I left from work the other day. I started it and let it warm up for about 5 mins before I left the carpark, then up the road (at the busiest intersection it could be at) it decided to stall at a red light. Then when it wouldn't start, until after about 2mins, when I turned the key it turned over. Update: Today I was driving up the road to get some lunch, started the car in the carpark, let it run for a bit, drove off. Was driving along a road in 4th doing 60kms and the revs just dropped down to '0' and the engine and oil lights came on. I instantly knocked it out of gear and chucked the hazards on and pulled over to the side of the road (which was a mission with 17" x 7" mags and no power steering) and called my brother (who's my machanic). I started it again after about 3mins and it started fine and got me home and hasn't missed a beat. Suggestions: The spark plugs (13BT_KE20 ) Ignition Module Crank angle sensor Items I know which need attending: Intank fuel filter to be changed Throtle body butterfly to be cleaned The car ha had oil changed every 5,000 and the filter every 10,000 so its been regulary serviced. So yeah, does anyone strongly agree or disagree with whats been suggested above? Like where the hell do I start... Its one huge big puzzle! And could the two problems be related?? Thanks stacks - in advance!! :(

Leads are fine, plugs are nearly due so possibly. Not sure about the stalling prob yeah, cause the car runs fine with everything (lights, stereo, air con etc) but it'll stall and then not start. I've only noticed it happening after the cars been parked for a long period of time in the heat of the day / hot sun. So no idea. Thanks for the pointers. I'll let you know how I go... I'll stop hi-jacking you're thread now... lol :yak:

Any left? How much? Can I pm someone for bank details?

$8,000 isn't so bad. I mean I'm worried about what these repairs might cost me to get her back to her normal working self, without worrying about mods yet... :yak: Its choking horribly at high rpm and loses power. Thats the main problem that I want fixed as I wanted to get her on the track soon but can't until this is fixed. Now also its started stalling randomly and then wont start again. Like when I left from work the other day. I started it and let it warm up for about 5 mins before I left the carpark, then up the road (at the busiest intersection it could be at) it decided to stall at a red light. Then when it wouldn't start, until after about 2mins, when I turned the key it turned over. So they are both kinda annoying and definitely effecting my 'Oh, What a Feeling' moments... lmao

Just to liven this thread up again, so we decided a factory ECU couldn't be re-mapped? A piggy back computer would be another word for a backup computer would it? And I guess depending on the computer you could select different tunes etc??? Any help appreciated, Thanks!

So do you have some new photo's Lesley??? Engine bay or otherwise? I've got issues with ROL14 at the moment. Got no idea what it is. But hopefully I'll be starting a process of elimination soon! I must say, I love that you're a chick, and into cars, and modify your car, and you're cars the same as mine :yak: So much respect there sister!! lol Are you willing to disclose an approx amount of $$ you've spent on the car? And how long have you had it??

Damnit, I'm spewing I missed this. But I haven't been on a forum for a while :yak: Will have to stay up to date so I don't miss the next one!

I've rsvp'd to this via tocau and boost. I thought the girl group was still happening?? Either way, doesn't matter, still keen to attend, what ever group I'm in :yak:

This cruise you're referring to, is this the one you've posted on boost and tocau? Cause I've rsvp'd to the girls group for that, are there heaps for chicks coming???

I'm sure a number of people on here also said the same as 'ancullen' but is only he worth a mention? :evil: Best of luck with her and I hope you have her back soon. Julez

Agreed on most points you have there. can't really go wrong and as he says, that way if the turbo stuffs up again within that period, then get the garret. Just trying to think of your warranties and working them to the best of their ability :yes: and also your situation with previous engine issues. Would be good to have that extra cover just to be sure. Best of luck, sorry for posting again, but I really hope it all works out for you!

Probably best to specify year models then when suggesting parts to people, as to not confused / mislead people. My parnter owns a 2002 Liberty B4 MYO3 which runs IHI VF33 and IHI VF32 and given how much pick up it has I doubted very much that it would be the same turbo, that was all. Sorry bud...

Subaru's Liberty B4's run an IHI VF33 primary and an IHI VF32 secondary. :)

hehe nice work there sunshine!! Bargin in deed!! Better then spending $200 for an aftermarket steering wheel!!

Happy Birthday Raven. I hope you have a great day. Who's gonna give you your birthday punches ey...?? hehe Have a good one!

PS - Its julez here, I used to be rol14_ae82 but i've got a new account now!! Just incase you were wondering who the fudge this was!! :lolcry:

Agreed. Also, genuine parts are going to cost more, you pay for the research and development that has gone into having them working effectively in their 'stock' environment. I'm not supprised that a Garrett turbo is gonna cost less. Garrett make bulk, to be sold to anyone who has any application in mind for that / each particular turbo. I'm pretty sure Garrett wont warrant the application of the turbo, they'll most likely only warranty the turbo itself. Meaning, if there's any other issue which may damage the turbo due to the engine being "under modified" I'm sure they wont care. Where as at least with the IHI, you know its been working fine in this application, for 6yrs now, until the oil warning light came on and was ignored, and i'm sure a new one will last just as long if not longer with all other issues taken care of.

Given that the reason the turbo seized in the 1st place was due to possibly a maintance issue, and the fact that Toyota are willing to replace the turbo with the factory turbo, I'd be going for that option. At least then the turbo, manifold, piping, ecu and all other factors are the same as previous (stock) and the only outstanding issue is the car using oil and maybe causing lack of oil getting to the turbo (therefore still covered under warranty because its been fitted by Toyota and is a geniune Toyota part) Adding to the mix, an aftermarket turbo, manifold, piping, ecu etc will (in my opinion) only add to your issues and void your warranty to no end, which i'm sure you paid good money for to have in the first place. Before I'd fit ANY turbo back on your car I'd be insuring that the 'car using oil' issue is well and truely sorted out. Otherwise ANY turbo you fit probably wont last longer then its warranty anyway if there's no oil getting to it! Please remember, if your gonna get a Garrett turbo, what ever size, that you will be limited in the amount of boost you will be able to run due to only having stock internals. This would even apply with the Toyota turbo. I've got a friend here in Brisbane with the same car as us and he has his car maxed to 12psi and that is as much as he will get without the internals of the engine being worked. Unless of course that's something you wanna do, by all means, go ahead and fit the Garrett turbo, work the internals, new piping, new ecu etc, void all warranties you have with Toyota (which you say are over in April anyways) and be happy ever after. Or put a tried and tested stock BRAND NEW turbo from Toyota back on the engine which, with the 'car using oil / lack of oil getting to turbo issue' resolved, would run fine again for another 100,000-150,000kms (and be covered by your remaining warranty with Toyota) Your choice I guess though, keep us posted but!!!