Rob74coupe

also if you don't mind me asking, why does your suzuki have a toyota 4k motor and still compete in stock class?? cheers, rob

fair enough, if it helps I'm pretty sure the 2 speed usually comes with a 4.3 ratio diff and the manual gets 4 or 4.1... not to sure though so don't quote me, someone on here probably knows... the 4.3 might just be the wagon ratio.. ill go check for a diff code on my plate now and let you know what ratio it is..= edit: just realised that wont help as you don't have a rolla rob also i forgot to actually answer your question, you don't need anything (apart from a 2 speed, flex-plate and torque converter...) it just bolts up.. there might be a dowel/dowel hole or two missing/extra but no real biggie, also the ke20 rolla gearbox crossmember fits the auto and manual, you should just be able to slot your x-member holes also i don't know if any of this applies for the traumatic, only the 2/3 speed toyoglide

don't know, never really looked as i don't have a 5k i don't reckon even custom pushrods would be too exspensive/hard to find

thats what i thought... :) oh yea, they kicked in the front grille and put a fence post through the radiator core too.... so anyone got any good security setups in their rollas?? preferably one that keeps in mind what they might do even if they don't get the car started.. my first car (84 323) had a switch that when in the "armed" position cut out power to the coil when power went to the brake lights... if you don't understand how that works, ask me, but once i found it with the door open half way out of its car spot :) since then ive started to lock my doors (my town has a population of under 10000 so i didnt think i really had to) cheers, rob edit: i used to have a red scorpion, but i also had a matte black one with the interior and all panels/windows/boot/bonnet stripped... i put the battery in the boot so i could dummy fit a magna efi setup before i took the red one off the road... either way to cut a long story short someone stole the 00 guage copper cables from under ther car... they were $50 bucks each, kinda wish i hadnt decided to run earth straight to the block as well. and to think coppers only $6.50 a kilo (new norfolk is copper capital of australia, theft wise anyway) someone must have seen me laying the cables ?!?!

this is from an american site i found, its about the 74 model, it it talks bout american Corolla GTSs but I'm sure it would apply to yours sorta... http://www.bigflea.com/corolla/index.cfm?ContentID=130 "Rearend: The 73 and 74 SR5 models used a 10-bolt third member section, 6.7" ring gear and 4.1:1 ratio. All other models used an 8-bolt, 6.3" ring gear and 4.1:1 or 3.9:1 ratio. The SR5 rear axle housing has about a 2" wider track, but same leaf spring width. All used drum brakes. The easiest upgrade is to obtain the complete 74 SR5 rearend. Then find the center differential from an 85 Corolla hatchback (these say "GTS Twin Cam 16" on the doors). These came with a 10-bolt, 6.7" ring gear, 4.3:1 ratio AND a stock limited slip. To mount this into the 74 SR5 rearend, you MUST cut 1/8" off the ends of the axle shafts! Otherwise they will bottom out. You should have a rearend shop set this up, and install new axle bearings while you are at it. Heck, install new pinion bearings as well. Limited slip differentials are a must for decent performance when powering out of a turn. The 85 GTS stock limited slip is good, but are hard to find in the junk yards. They cost $1400 as a new replacement from Toyota. The other option is to try to find a TRD model. Custom rearend suggestions: You can take a complete rearend from an 85 GTS Corolla hatchback, cut the suspension mounts off and weld on leaf spring mounts. These provide the rear disc brakes as well. The only issue is these have an even wider track than the 74 SR5. You might have to use wheels from a front wheel drive car with a large offset to keep the tires inside the fenders. Another consideration is to have a rearend shop make up a complete custom rearend. Some shops can custom make axle shafts to any length, any bolt pattern, spline count and bearing sizes. They can take any axle housing and shorten it, etc. You can even consider a rearend from an American car, as they are popular for custom shops. This may be overkill unless you are producing over 350 HP. The Toyota truck 8" diff is very common with off-roaders, and there are many aftermarket limited slips and gear ratios available. This may be perfect for motors making between 200 and 300 HP. My plans are to attempt to combine aftermarket diff parts and narrowed housing from a Toyota truck, with end mounts and disc brakes from a 79 Supra, and have custom axle shafts made to match. " cheers, rob

just thought id add if you want to use the water choke just plumb it in line with the heater core (i think, the circuit that bypasses the thermostat anyway, I'm pretty sure its the heatercore... there might just be a hose thats just a U shape that bypasses the thermostat, use that if you got one) i don't really like water chokes... all the 32/36s ive had ive removed the chokes entirely (shafts and buttefly) just takes a bit longer to start on a cold morning.. i reckon just use whichever one looks in the best nic and runs better rob

:) :) Hmm, both look the same to me cept the top one has an automatic water choke, one should be a 32/36 dgv the other should be a 32/36 dgav?? (not sure really... dg**) i recommend using the one without the water choke (you can just take the water choke off orr leave it disconnected, and i believe you can change what type of choke it is, ie take off water choke and put on manual/electric choke) otherwise the carbs should be identical (cept for choke sizes/venturis/jets/etc which you can change round between the two carbs you have) cheers, rob

hehe, i liked the space shuttle in some c*nts backyard! cheers, rob

peachey is out lizbef but honeypot is out hackham west both have lots of theft and drugs cheers, rob

in my opinion there is far to much of a gap between 1st and 2nd on a 2speed toyoglide, if you just wanted to crawl up a 45 degree incline in first i guess it would do but id much rather have a 5 speed with the diff ratio changed to make a similar 1st ratio as on a 2 speed than actually have a 2 speed itself p.s as soon as i get a 5 speed you can have my 2 speed for postage costs if you want, i was told i can use the same tailshaft wether its a 2/4 or 5 speed so i guess you can too! cheers, rob

thinking about two tone-ing the ke20, i quite like the orange colour it is now... i was thinking black or grey along the bottom sills, anyone got pics of a ke20 or any other old rolla with 2-tone duco?? cheers, rob

that just reminds of when i had to go to u pull it to get a new fuel pump for my scorpion and i gave it a bit of a boot up sigma drive :) i miss my old scorpion :( 2.6 went way harder than the 1.2 :) cheers, rob

hehe, some russian lady is making and selling these earings... don't ask me how i found this..

hehe, in new norfolk we have a mary jane st

i used to have a rwd 1981 626 which i unfortunately decided to leave parked on the street one friday night... :bash: when i saw it the next day it had a cinder-block through the front window, all the panels were kicked in, they ripped out the alarm and keypad imobiliser, but couldnt get it started, so they cut the cars harness in the middle of the seats (the ENTIRE harness), stole the 32/36, adapter plate, manifold, manifold to head spacer plate, extractors, 14" davies craig thermofan with davies craig adjustable thermoswitch, crane cams fireball ignition box (and whole distributer... you'd think theyd only take the hall effect pickup), the entire head (had a pretty good cam in it) umm... what else, oh yea, they took the LID and adjustable knob off the valvelube kit, but left the bottle?? all i was left with was my 2" mandrel bent stainless steel exhaust (it was on the ground, I'm guessing they couldnt get it out from under my car!) the LSD in the diff and the 13" cheviot snowflake mags (all four tyres slit) if i had built the ride myself i reckon i would have killed myself... luckily i bought it for $500 no rego and paid another $500 to get it with 6 months rego... but i loved that car, i only had it for 6 months... i sold it for $120 bucks for scrap :y: yea, people are totall c*nts when they want to be aye?? cheers, rob oh yea, it had a pretty good pioneer head unit and kenwood 6"s in the front and some obscure super-auto-rep-cheap-co 280watt 6x9"s in the back, needless to say that went with the rest, and the redline chrome ball gearknob :bash: i loved that gearknob, i need to get another one, then again i need a manual first :y: oh yea.. it also had a proper vintage bus driver steering wheel knob/handle thing, when it got impounded under those pesky anti-hooning laws the tow truck driver thought it was pretty grouse, i could tell by the glint in his eye he would have loved the massive burnout (and 100m fishies) i'd just done up the road, the copper wasnt impressed though (he snatched my keys out of my hand and broke the remote for my alarm so i blame him for what happened!!)

Hey, when i was in adelaide, i lived on peachey rd and honeypot rd..... just wondering why all the names are so sweet... i could swear i saw the "avenue of the suger plum fairies" up there just a random thought, cheers, rob

anyone know what the name of the places in hobart that do like cam grinding, flywheel lightening, balancing, porting, shot peening and all that other funky jazz? i heard there was only like 2 places but i can't remember the names.... i really want to get my cam ground!!! cheers, rob

fair enough, whatever floats your boat

ie .040 extra lift = grind the rocker posts down .040??

haha, nicky boy.. you don't know how long i was staring at that bug before i realised it was a gif...... also maybe a tint place might do them as its sort of their thing ive definately seen em on ebay before

i could swear ive seen em at supercheap... just make sure you get a decent sized one, my mate had a laser and the demister covered about 1/4 of the windshield, right in the middle... haha

why not just use the 202 solid lifters, id imagine they'd be easier to find... don't know how hard it would be to find datto 1200 pushrods though... if the 3F ones are better/use stock pushrods please let me know cheers, rob

how much do you reckon postage will be to tas? probably not too much, although it is from n.z. but do any taswegians wanna combine and save??

electric demisters are the cat's whiskers if you want to see whats behind you without rolling down the window and sticking your head out ( i HATE my driveway!!!!!)

yea, that little drivers side vent thing is pissweak i'd definatly go a demister. you shouldnt need the window out to put it on, its just like a sticker/tint, probably be easier to get it straight though. also to answer you question about how well the vent holds up in the rain (I'm in tassie, cold as all f*ck) my rear window is see thru till about 7 - 7:30 then it goes to cloudy mode untill 7 - 7:30 the next morning and that is written in stone. cheers, rob p.s. for the first 2 weeks i had my 20 i just thought the trim thing around the window was rooted then i realised it was actually a vent... my drivers side door trim has a little "vent" on it too. do you reckon if i wet the trim and clamped it down it'd dry straight??