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Yeah I might just have to port the 4K head out. I'm running a brand new 45 DCOE, so I'm guessing the runners on the manifold will be bigger. Thanks

Thanks very much guys, that's a relief! I will get a recon 4K head and see what happens. Cheers

Hi everyone, Recently rebuilt a 5K bottom end with the flat top (O dish) pistons, but don't have the right head to suit. I tried scooping out the shallow chambered 5K head for the D dish pistons, but keep blowing head gaskets as the comp ratio is 13:1. I need to get hold of the O dish 5K head, or put a 4K or 3K head on. Does anyone know if a 4K head is the same height as the O dish 5K head, in other words so the pushrods will be the right length (I have the O dish pushrods). If so, what will the compression ratio be? I'm using hydraulic rocker gear. Needless to say, if anyone is selling one... Thanks

Yeah I fitted some from a Sigma to my KE-30 2 door. It has a ridiculous amount of camber! It looks fairly extreme, but it actually drives far better like that. Even feels more planted in a straight line too. If you go that way, you will need the Sigma ball joints too. I also had to grind the bushings on the LCA a little bit, but nothing drastic. Unfortunately this has left me with a fair bit of toe. Does anyone know the name of the part you screw out to adjust the toe angle? I need longer one's if that's possible. Any advice would be much appreciated! Thanks

Ahh it should be fine. Oddly enough I got a 3K and 4K dipstick today and they are both exactly the same. I'm guessing they all share the same oil capacity and sump. Cheers

This might be a dumb question to many, but is there a difference between a dipstick for a 4K and a 5K? I just had my 5K rebuilt and lost the dipstick in the process, so I went to the wrecking yard and got one from a 4K. It currently indicates my oil level is over full. I put about 3.5 litres in it? This is a pretty serious little motor, so I want to make sure it has the right amount. Thanks

Hmmm, Redline does the manifold for it, so would need to get hold of the manifold first and have a look at the runners. I reckon it should all work pretty well. Still deciding whether I should do it or not, but at this stage it seems like it will work better than the down draught Weber that's on there. Cheers

Ah, good!

Hi everyone, I'm looking at fitting a single Dellorto 40 side draught to my 5K, and the mounting is the same as the 40DCOE Weber I've been told. The issue is the only manifold I can find for a single side draught is for a 45DCOE. Question is, do the 40 and 45 DCOE Webers have different mountings? Thanks

Yeah, sounds like a head gasket problem to me. However it can be several other things, but usually the head gasket is the problem. Like 'altezzaclub' said, have the head faced and make sure all contacting surfaces are spotless. I had a head bolt snap on my 5K whilst installing a copper head gasket, warped the gasket removing it from the block, put it all back together and oil turned to MILK!!! Had to rip it all apart again, put a standard ACL Monotorque gasket in and she came up fine. Easier said then done unfortunately, lots of time to do it right! Just incase you're new to this, make sure you torque the head bolts in the right sequence, then check them again after driving it for a while. It pays to clean out the thread on the block too, something I learnt the hard way (cause of my head bolt snapping!). Cheers

You need the 80's model Sigma LCA's. But I think I got the wrong one's, as my camber is now pretty severe! I did this to my KE-30 Corolla a few months back, and it's not as straight forward as I thought. You need to swap a few bits, for example the Sigma ball joints must be used, the steering arms need to be wound out, the bushes need to be ground down a fair bit (have a grinder handy). Presuming your Rolla has similar dimensions to mine, you will need to do all these things. Oh yes, some bolts need to be changed too. There was something else that had to be done too, but can't remember right now... All up the control arms and ball joints cost me $50, labour was free as I did this with a mate in the drive way. Well worth it though, as the positive camber on my car was useless! Hope this helps.

Thanks mate! I spent alot of time building up this motor, so I did not want to blow it up by not having enough oil etc. I'll put exactly the 3.5 L and fire her up. Thanks again.

Hi all, Does anyone know the EXACT amount of oil a 5K is meant to have (inc oil filter)? Mine is missing the dipstick and is the bent type, can't find one anywhere! If I put the right amount in, then I have a full mark for whatever dipstick I make up for it. Thanks

Okay, that should make a massive difference! Guess now I need to track one of these down and take the centres out. Thanks

Hi everyone, My KE-30 2 door is currently running a 5K and 5 speed, and a 4.1 diff (according to the book). I was wondering if there's another diff or complete setup with disc brakes that will easily fit and preferably have the same stud pattern? I'd like a higher ratio diff than what's in there, so it revs less. Thanks :)

Thanks for that, sounds like the best buy around! That should be perfect for me, will buy it I reckon. Just need to fit a return line to my tank, install electric fuel pump and oxy sensor I think. Is alot of work, but will be worthwhile. Can't wait to get this EFI setup going, I'm pretty sick of carbies! Cheers

On second thoughts... Does anyone actually know if the standard ECU can keep up with a 5K? I'll be running higher compression with a modified ignition system and bigger injectors. Any advice would be much appreciated!

Yes, that's the one! Think I'll place a bid on that. Too bad the loom has been cut right back, would have to re-wire it. Still it should deliver enough fuel to my 5K, and should run fine. Will be way cheaper than an after market one anyway. Thanks for the link! :laff:

Hi guys, Got a 4K-EFI setup a while back, with the intention of putting it on my 5K. I was wondering if it's possible to get an after market ECU like the standard one it came out with. I want to get this thing running, but don't want to spend ridiculous amounts of money on a performance ECU. If anyone has pics of the original ECU for these things, I'd love to see them! Thanks

Yeah that sounds like a manifold gasket for sure. The same thing happened to me a while back, I changed the manifold gasket and the sound was gone. Problem for me was one of my extractor pipes had slightly less meat on it than the others, so I had to fit a bigger washer to the manifold bolt to hold it down properly. After you change it go for a good drive, then once the motor cools down re-tension the manifold bolts. Hope that helps!

An extractor gasket is an all metal one right? No I'm just using a standard gasket on it, but there does'nt appear to be any leaks from the manifold (no black suit visible). I did have a leak there once before and it was audible right away, sounded like a tractor! Think I'll have to get the exhaust welded up a bit where it joins the extractors. There's lots of little black dots there, which should indicate a leak. As it's not far from the manifold, it may be upsetting it slightly. It's only a slight deviation from the regular idle smoothness, but I'm fussy! Thanks

My apologies if this has been asked millions of times before... I noticed my KE-30 running a 5K has recently developed some exhaust leaks around where the pipe is welded up to the extractors. The idle on the 5K has also started fluctuating slightly. Could the two be related? Since I've not mucked with the tuning much, I think maybe the exhaust leaks could be upsetting it? Cheers

I also have a 1976 KE-30 2 door... love of my life

Measured up a few bits today... The 147 mm pushrods with those weird solid lifters measure a total of 188 mm, from the bottom of the lifter to the top of the pushrod. The previous solid lifter setup I used on my other 5K (same head) has 186 mm pushrods, and measured 190 mm from bottom of lifter to top of pushrod. So pretty much the same outcome, and with adjustable rockers it wont be a problem. Also my piston dish looks to be around 6 cc.

Okay ACL make two head shims for the 5K, one is 0.8 mm thick and the other is 1.5 mm thick. This plus the head gasket may get me out of trouble, but then I'm not sure if I'd need longer pushrods or not. Went in to a head shop today and the bloke there recommended hollowing out the combustion chambers in the head. Will take the head in next week to have that looked at. After that I gotta decide what rocker gear and pushrods to use, as I have a few combinations here. Not really sure which way to go at this stage, so many options!