oh what a nissan feeling!
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Posts posted by oh what a nissan feeling!
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The 4a would have to be alot lighter, they are physically much smaller. Keep in mind that in the nissan option the sr is actually a kilo or two lighter than the ca due to alloy block.
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i can definately give you an answer for that last problem...PUT IT IN YOURS!!!! or you will regret it!
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James, valve size is definately an inportant issue as you said, however the L20 head has a very bad chamber design, and even the standard L20 engines have major pinging problems. Try the 180sss head, if you can find one!! They have big valves.
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I have spent a bit of time trying to find some new rear door rubbers (weatherseal strip) for the KE30 and were really unsuccessful. I located front ones at clark rubber quite easily at for $50 each, but found i could only get rear door rubbers as a 'buy by the metre' type setup, which would have to look a bit ugly once fitted.
So i went to my mate corollaandy's place to see what i could find, and took home a pair off a ke70 which seem to be MUCH EASIER TO FIND in overrated condition. When i got home i found the only difference in the rubbers is the small locator holes for the clips, they are actually the perfect length. So with a small drill bit and a cordless, it took 5 minutes to redrill the rubbers, and i have almost new door rubbers. :P
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I had rdo today, so i got to have another go at a tune.I got the top feed fuel rail on it with my 550 injectors, and it was running much better, so i took it in and we plugged in the laptop.
I had problems again but its not all bad. As we were taking it down the highway with the anylizer on it, The more boost i hit it started to develop a miss. We got a pretty good tune on it but it has a pretty bad spark problem. So i took it back to the workshop, and it didnt take long to find one of the bolts that holds the dizzy cap down broken :( . Sooo that was the end of my tune, The car seems like it will hammer though, so I'm actually quite stoked. This also gives me a chance to get my big red CSI box back on, which will eliminate ALL spark problems.
So when i get to take it back, we can slowly and carefully put some timing back into the tune, and then see how she goes, damn exciting stuff, for me anyway!! :) :) :D :P
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Sorry guys, not much to say yet. Still got injector dramas. I bought a set of standard sr turbo injectors off ebay cos it was much cheeper than buying a top feed rail for my 550s. Anyway i took it in to get tuned today, and the injectors i bought are stuffed completely,it sounds like a wrx. :) :) So now i have done what i should have in the first place and ordered a fuel rail for my 550s.....YAY !! So i missed entry in the QLD one day powercruise anyway, and I'm a bit disappointed. ;) But ya get that!!!
Tyler, sounds like you have yourself a good deal! Any questions are welcome. With the diff the reason i used the EB falcon housing is cos the brakes on a falcon are alot lighter and have the handbrake on the calliper, instead of an inner drum. Same centre, just something to consider. You will have to update us when the conversion is underway!!! :lolcry:
The commodore brakes are an engineers work, where the larger disk is actually bolted to the little one. I can provide you the number of the engineer if you are interested. The cost of his labour was about $350 from memory, and this included the caliper bracket, You provide disk and callipers. :lolcry:
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My first rola was a paddock bomb, i had it from yr 7 at school till i got my Ls in yr 11.
It was an impressive car. It only held water for about ten minutes, so we used to top it up thrash it for about an hour till it conked out from being too hot. We would then walk home while the motor cooled and come back a few hours later and start again. One time we came back and the spark leads had melted from :P the heat. We did this for about 5 yrs. The only thing that killed it was we eventually blew the diff, and couldnt be bothered changing it. :P
Now that is a good reason to own a rola!! You can't kill 'em!! :y:
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hey man, havnt seen you around for awhile, nah i havnt got the s14 stuff sorted yet, ive been real busy tryin to get this thing goin. I finally got it started today after some coil problems held me up for a few hours, gettin the exhaust on monday.
So how is the 4ag project commin along, still goin turbo? are you ready to take me for a spin yet! Got that diff all fitted yet??
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some more update.....
I pulled the struts out and bought some new springs for them, and also softened the shocks up a bit with some 10-15 fork oil.
I am waiting on my top feed fuel rail, and will hopefully be getting the exhaust hooked up, and a road tune tomorrow. YEEHAA :D :dance: I'm excited!
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Since you seem have chosen the bastard of a fit s13 gearbox, i will explain why it is such a bastard. The moving and rewelding of the floor is not the bastard problem,it is the structural brace that runs inside the car that the front of your seats bolt to. The gearstick lands right where this is :P . So in order to maintain the strength of your car you will need to unpick that brace then move the floor, then re-route that brace. Simple yet time consuming. The other reson i wish i went for a celica box is because silvia boxes have alot of cooling problems, so after a couple of big burnouts youre already in need of another :P
With the calibration of your speedo, you may just fluke it. I am running 4:11 and 17s and mine fluked to me perfect. If not , take a scan of your gauge face, move the numbers on paint, then glue it to your old one, :)
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The speedo is not a problem, an old bluebird manual drive bolts onto the sr gearbox, then u just use the stocko cable.
The mounts line up with the crossmember, as in not too far forward or back, obviously custom mounts are needed.
The sump fits like it was made for a rolla, could not be any better, and this allows you to mount the motor really low (better handling).
Tailshaft should cost a max of $130 to be shortened and balanced.If u supply parts.
The gearbox is a bastard, it is too long for the rola tunnel and serious tunnel mods are required, I was talkin to a guy at powercruise with a KE20 and he actually adapted a celica box with a cut and shut bellhousing, in hindsight this is a better option.
As far as mods approval goes, all up for 6 mods it cost me $280. Theres no excuse not to. Besides, my engineer picked up some things i am glad he did, it is worth it.
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Dare i say it, flipping of leaves is a great and very cheap way to lower your car, but certainly does not help the handling. it makes it a little bouncy. Go for the spring reset, it cost me $80, at allset springs, and it even included a dodgy pressure pack paint job! whoohooo!
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Hey, you read my mind, gt28/71R is the one. I have the specs chosen already, and, yeh i know the disco potato is a bit small. I'm keen to feel the torque though :P I do plan on running some big cams, forged pistons, ect. I am keen to use the s14 stuff i have, i may take a look at that inlet manifold, see if i can smooth it a bit with the di grinder.
Sorry when i spoke of the gti conversion i was speaking of the rocker gear, apparently it can handle a fair bit more revs, and will fit with very little machine work. So i was wondering if this is possible to do to the s14 head, as ive only seen it done to the s13 head?
Thanks for your help irokin.
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The other thing the SR20DEs don't have is oil squirters. So your pistons cook if youre running high-ish boost. Id be limiting myself to 12psi absolute TOPS...but thats just me.
My advice with the S14 SR20DET is... ditch it and get a red top SR20. Not trying to be biased or anything (if they honestly made more power, Id use one) The manifolds (and to an extent the ports) on the later motors are shit and the low mount, high port setup of the redtops flow better. I do know of a guy making 546 WHEEL horsepower with the stock redtop manifold. They flow that good!! The VCT can be troublesome too. There was a problem with oil pressure not getting up to the actuator quick enough and a rattling noise developing. Nissan have a fix for it, but thats more money. The extra power S14 motors make standard is simply a larger turbo (T28 vs T25G) and a bit of VCT.
Should go like hell.... *runs off to strip 200kg from the silvia*
Interesting. . . I have seen that 546hp silvia at powercruise last year on the dyno. CRAZY! I know what you are saying about the flow of the s13 heads and manifolds, but i have found limited info on the flow and reliability of the s14 head, can these still have the gtir coversion done? and to what extent is the manifold on the s14 proven to be restrictive? I am chasing 350rwhp.
Any info appreciated. Matt. :P
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Thanks guys! I know it is a bit of a risky setup, but what the hell! If she blows i hope i get a bit of fun first, i will keep the boost to about 8 and keep a close watch on the tune, who knows maybe it'll last a year or so.
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Jus thought id do an update of the progress of the rola,
I'm halfway through putting a GT28RS on the non turbo motor, this is a temporary arrangemeny while i do a proper build of the S15 motor i have.
I have all of the pipework finished,ive just gotta get some of it chromed. I also have a set of SARD 550cc injectors that i still have to make a fuel rail for (cosa theyre top feed).Other than that its nearly there, hopefully it will be goin within a month! whoohooo! :D
These are my struts with the commodore 300mm rotors and twim piston calipers.
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Just a bit of warning guys. I got my ke30 dash restred at DASHBOARD RESTORATIONS and quite honestly the job was shithouse. The finish was poor, you could actually tell through the vinyl where their putty joined to the original dash. There was also dirt glued down under the vinyl. Not to mention that the recolouring paint is so thin u can see through it, and after i had the dash for a month the paint started to separate and crack!!!!
YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!!!
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Holy crap man! love your work! I have the same size cooler and was worried it was not gonna fit behind the grill, looks like it will, awesome :P
I'm pretty sure it is 300 by 780 end to end cooler by 75 thick.
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yep, I'm there, just set the date!
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holy crap, he blew it up without forced induction?
That is an acheivement! The last burnout comp i went in i held mine at 8000 for 2 minutes, 2 minutes, and 3 minutes, in secound gear, and it didnt pop.
Your mate has done well!!!!!
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Nah man sorry, i havnt got anything complete enough to do a dummy fit, ive got parts laying around but you will definately need something with a gearbox and at least the inlet manifold.
i think the best way to go would be to get a non-turbo like i had, and do the fit and get it running like that, then the changeover later is easy as.... :y: A freind of mine picked up a complete srde motor with gearbox for $400 a few months back, and its in good nick. On ebay ive seen them go for as little as $200, if you can find one local enough to pick up. :D good luck man!
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Thanks james! the color is definately different, and people either love it or hate it, so you will always get alot of opinions if you do paint your ke20 this colour.
The paint code is TOYOTA AJ the color name is 'bright green'.
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Its not about the revs, its about the head design....
An L20 head is a peice of junk, just a bad design, they have a tendency to detonate even when standard with low compression. The L18 head on the other hand is an awesome design and it is possible to run some pretty high compression ratio.
Most people put the 1800 head on the 2L, but if you can't be bothered go the 1800.
Also according to factory figures the 1800 had more power anyway, less torque though.... :D
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Yeah the pulley is too small, it wasn't so bad on the 4K but with the bigger 5K it's shit, so bigger pulley, new bracket arrangement with an idler pulley, new extractors and should be around 10psi, then I will get it tuned. Should be 100hp@wheels hopefully
I don't think you will have much drama getting your 100rwhp, with 10 pound you may even pull a bit more, the tune would have to be perfect though, cos ya don't want it ta pop!
I was thinking though, that would be gettin to be a pretty quick car. my car runs a 14.9 with 110rwhp, so if you can get that(which is likely), your car may run mid14s, because of your lighter weight (motor,diff,g'box,ect).
To put that into perspective, an r32 or r33 both run 15.2 in standard form.
an early WRX runs 14.4, and the newer shape runs 15.3, WRX EATER!!! :jamie:
Ke30 Sr+turbo Update
in Engine Conversions
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!!!!!!!!!choke :thumbsup: !!!!!!!!!!!!!! holy crap. Um wow, fast rolla. What else can i say.....Take me for a spin!!!!! :D :cool:
The guy who did my brakes is racecraft engineering here on the sunny coast. He will assemble and fit the conversion if you want to spend the extra, he will give it to you in bits. His prices may have gone up since mine was done 2.5 yrs ago. Number is pm...