ke70rolla

sorry guys i can do anything with a car but I'm hopeless with punctuation(i hated school and only passed year six so I'm doing pretty well with the spelling anyway.(look a full stop)thats about it though heres some pictures instead maybe that will suffice. okay heres a little update:the title reads 220hp chev but now that ive had the time to check internals etc it turns out i have a 327 with forged crank,old high comps 325hp manifold, corvette 283 heads and a long ratio american powerglide i would guess its around 300hp. found a little rust that had to be cut out the crossmember has to be reinforced i havent looked into brakes (this is my second project toyota the first is also midway a 67 KE10) will probably look at commo and ford brakes to see if they can work diff will be cressida disc lsd. for legal reasons ill have to say this car is for burnouts only I'm totally against hoons(can't stand that word)and burnouts and unsafe cars on the road,people having fun or enjoying themselves.like anyone else who builds a high powered car i do not intend on using it yeah right.and 1 pic of the 67 rolla i found under a tree which looks rough as but so far only 2 minor rust holes.

while i sat at home waiting for a friend to finish the body on my ke10 i realised i had 3 weeks until i would have my license back and start building the v6 rolla i started talking about last year so i thought how could i build something with power that was fun to drive had okay economy and cost jack shit that i could use as a daily driver,in the shed i had a rusted out impala that still had the 307 powerglide with 152000kms that just needed a carby and ignition,so i found a nice 86 wagon for its substantial engine bay and ripped out the motor and box (scrapped for $70 brings cost of wagon down to $110) then bought a 50000volt hei for it($85 complete cheers ebay dsm work great people are just idiots) and had a brand new 540cfm holley street avenger($440) left over from past times(4V clevo xe probably means nothing) bolted it on timed the chev turned the key,was like i shut it off last night idled on the spot no choke at all and its the first start in 2 years.currently have both cars waiting to be mated together just need to move the chev mounts 10cm back and maybe move the trans tunnel but its looking good so far.give me another couple of days and hopefully it will be nearly done. v8s arent really seen as a useful engine when it comes to power and handling anymore but i was aiming for cheap build cost,fair economy,reliability,towing is a factor and a car that would not strain in everyday driving. i will try to work out the build up section when I'm finished and put it in there.

i just got a running chev impala for nothing so its a piece of shit rip off

I went back to classics aswell i have a 67 ke10 and a 68 impala custom ute.sweet little car you scored I think her name could be gloria.

I'm planning the same with a 5vzfe in a ke10 i didnt realise the bellhousing pattern was the same on the mz but if thats true you can use a 151 housing from a surf but you will need to put a spacer plate between the supra box and the housing to correct the input shaft length.i would go with the supra box on a 1mz it should last forever and you should'nt have a problem with room in a ke70.ive seen one of these make 560kw at the wheels so its definately a good idea.

cheers mate i knew someone would have the info,see people this is how to post a useful answer how the hell could images and grilles help.

you can't identify a car with the grille buddy,I'm sure someone will know by numbers

What year was my ke10 made?this car was never fitted with compliance plate just engine i.d. plate body num is ke10244447 if that helps,previous owner says 67 but apparently we didnt get them that early any ideas?. car has parts from mexico and korea.my internal door locks work by pushing the door handle forwards is this common? this is my second rolla in 2 years so i don't know the ins and outs just yet.

ke10-don't know what year no vin number only one plate describing engine etc 2 door soon to be 3vzfe or 5vzfe 5 speed manual lined up a 3vzfe for $400 but if i can get a 5vzfe for a good price... get back to ya on suspension, will be hybrid more than likely some type of widened 15s with whitewalls retrimmed stock low cuts black velour autometre/speco thomas instrumentation/modded trans tunnel/electric windows will supply before and after photos when car comes back primed

ill do that. i just got some time to have a good look at it,was thinking of reinforcing the existing wishbone then i noticed they are retained by cast iron so that will have go aswell the leaf spring is pretty cool though i bet you could get the front stiff as with an extra sway bar and do some mad smokies out of corners.

cheers mate at least that gives me something to look at ive searched the net and found nothing i was 90% sure from the beggining that it will take serious effort but thats cool i got 12 months to get it on the road ill probably spend a grand just driving around looking.anyone interested in a 3vzfe/5vzfe can use 22r bellhousing on a w58 with adapter(ive been told this by a bloke using the same engine in a corona) or surf 4wd bellhousing and a supra box with a spacer in between to get the right length input(thought someone might like to know),or if you want to waste money buy a getrag should last for 20 years.i kind of wish i never thought of the v6 my original idea was a modded turbo 4age since its so easy to get power and cheap,but everyones got one and i can't change my mind once i decide on something.

i was thinking from the beggining that i would probably have to change the majority like i said I'm willing to go rack and pinion and spend big on it,ill have 7K to set this car up when i sell a couple of commodores i got for cheap and am going to do it all except the body so it should be pretty easy.if a fifty year old bloke sent me a message (and he had ran toyotas his whole life) saying its impossible i would let this go,but since that has'nt happened anyone else want to put their two cents in.i just checked out some links on here and am pretty sure ill be on my own with this one,if i find a good setup ill let everyone know.got afeeling this project just went down a gear

i want your front bar thats a mirror image of my little restorer i picked up for free,ill have to put pics up soon. no rust holes in mine either except the boot had almost dissapeared.i wonder what the new corollas will look like after 40 years of abuse.

i should of mentioned this is by far not the first car ive built ive been maintaining cars since i was fiffteen and built my first one at about 18 the only thing i can't work on is autos, i am willing to scrap the front end.the only reason i posted here is on the off chance that there is something easily transfered i am willing to spend a couple of grand on rack and pinion on this car if it can't be done (already purchased a getrag),why would you incinuate that i am an idiot,this post was not helpfull in the slightest way.ANYONE KNOW FOR A FACT THAT IT can't BE DONE! now does anyone have a clue about the diffs in these things,i know that a few dato 1600s came out with the locker diff from the 510 pickup and thought toyota might have done the same back in the day.i can't wait to read the next fiffty posts

i just got a 1967 ke10 corolla a couple of months ago and plan to fit a 3vzfe or maybe 5vzfe v6 into it,wondering if anyone knows if there are bigger steering arms and struts from any other toyota that will fit(mk2 corona?guess)i have never built a toyota before and don't know much about transferable parts,also i was wondering if toyota ever used a commercial locked diff because mine is'nt welded but doesnt freewheel.i already measured the 6 and it will fit with a slight modification to the firewall.ill put up some photos before me mate takes it to straighten the body and then some afters. I'm also aware the handling will go out the arse