vagen

the way this thing was designed the exhaust blew directly on the manifold (it even has a heat sink to grab exhaust heat)so placing a bit of stainless in the way will help lower intake charge temps. One more thing I'm using .0625 inch SS which coincidentally is the same thickness as the gasket and stacking extra material in that gap will misalign the manifold causing problems with alignment of ports bolts lots of things.

Quick update without photos: new brake hoses on front brakes new "muffler" on the exhaust new gasket on intake mani Polished the thermostat housing (the ugly bit in the last photo)

I live in the south and this car is used for track only so cold weather is not an issue. BTW anyone know why SS is a good heat shield? Its because it's greedy about the energy applied to it. SS will not transmit anywhere as much heat as aluminum. the SS cost me nothing and the plate is there to stay. If it gains me power good will it cost power I highly doubt it. BTW: I priced a set of extractors here $300usd and a 3-6 week wait. I'll go free and here now over twice what I paid for the car and forever to get here.

I can get extractors but they are not common here and have to be shipped in from Austrailia. I was hoping the SS pannel would offer a slightly cooler intake charge and any improvement in exhaust flow would be lucky coincidence.

I doubt my butt dyno will be able to tell anything as I have never driven this car in anger. I'll skip this if it is of no benefit.

I am going to try a little experiment on my 3k. I will swap the standard gasket for a sheet of stainless steel sealed with exhaust rated RTV. The idea is two fold one the exhaust will no longer directly contact the intake and two the flow in the manifold might be less turbulent. BTW: this is on a twin outlet exhaust mani. Am I mad for even trying this?

oops wrong section

all I can come up with for this car is two quotes from top gear presenters Bloody Nora! - James May POWWWWWAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!! - Jeremy Clarkson

a little movement front to back is normal but if you can move them 90 deg to the crank it's time to start measuring for a rebuild.

I did some engine bay cleanup... mostly I got rid of the rats nests of wire the previous owner left me. I did clean the intake up a touch and polish the valve cover. Before after

today: re routed the power cables under the car and terminated the ends Power cables = DONE Alternator 1/2 rewired core plug replaced ( the darned thing was just plain gone) Manifolds are currently off for cleaning and access to the electrical underneath (planning to install a SS block plate to the heat riser) next update I hope to have the alternator rewired and the manifolds back on.

my suspension is as follows: stock springs professionally cut and rewound (cost = firstborn) shocks stock wet with oil changed to 50w not under damped by any means. rear re-stacked leafs main leaf inverted new vintage KYB competition shocks again not underdamped sway bar is stock but with aluminum "D" bushes and poly end bushes.

these are a custom wheel made in the 80's they started as a 13x 5.5 RWD American racing steelie and they were cut and had 1.25in added so this set is rather unique. I think in your case find a wheel you really like and have the barrels replaced with the width you like.

small update: Installed the battery box and 2 gauge cables but not hooked up installed new shocks in rear (the old ones were SHOOOOOOOOT) installed muffler delete (still really quiet 85db at 20 ft and 2500 rev) installed Tachometer (A pillar mounted {yep rice} not wired yet) still waiting on: Weber carb hook up power cables rewire alternator (some tool snipped the wires at the plugs) Front brake soft lines Mounting seat

after pics As you can see they fit much better now

is it even possible to put one of these in a rwd car? 135hp would be nice if it's possible to make it work with my K-series gearbox

have one in member rides

it's a true sheep in wolf's clothing

Looks like I may be putting some nice wheels on for street use 8/

when I found the car it was sitting under a bush, so the original paint is badly cracked I have photos of before I flared them but I didn't take any after but I will in the next day or so as my new rear shocks arrive today 8/ so I'll include the before pics in this post

I was test fitting my race wheels and tires unfortunately the rear arches were resting on the tires. I managed to flare them .75inch using a bottle jack and nothing else. here is the left rear guard resting on the tire and after flaring the right side it looked like this finished product turned out pretty nice

now lets see what it looks like on the race wheels and tires. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

rear is down ( a little too much but I'll fix that). I need to buy new or modify the shocks now I inverted the main leaf instead of using blocks

dropped the front with stock springs cut 1.5 coils and changed the shock oil from 5w to 50w (it's very stiff now). Next up is the rear I'm undecided on how but I'm leaning toward taking the lazy way out and using blocks.

not on slicks but had to snap a couple with a friend's volk rays on..