Andy43

Opps didn't check before posting. Mod's can you remove this thread ? Andy

All Found this poking around Andy http://www.retroscenemag.com/post/Toms-3K-R-Engine.aspx

I've stuck it in there with some heavy duty loctite, bugger didn't know about the o ring, guess this sucker is going to leak now.

Yeah ok, I expect to cope some flack here. I've knocked the dipstick tube now I carn't get it to stay in. Whats the trick ? Andy

We have to run a stock carby on the race car. We gained 3hp on the dyno by pissing the K&N filter off, and installing a stock one with the trumpet cut off and the hole sealed, and the half of the filter box that faces the strut cut open. Yeah I know I don't make sense and looks shit house, But works.

Will KE30 ones fit ? If they do I have some I can mail to you.

altezza Ok What I have done, Is built two motors basiclly the same. One motor for the speedway car that my 12 year old drives, and One for My daily driver as a test platform and also a know set of running spares. The speedway motor is yet to be started so where talking about my daily driver. The daily driver cam is dialed in at inlet lobe 8 btdc at 50 thou, noting a servicable timing chain was used, The speedway on is at 10 btdc at 50 thou with a new chain, I figure chain streach will retard the cam a bit. Speedway rules state stock inlet and exhaust manfolds, The speedway car does run a open exhaust, The Daily currently has stock KE30 all the way, I have a set of extractors 2 into1 / 2 into1 that I will be fitting the next few days, I'm hoping this will solve my problem and hopefully have both cars with simlar performace figures. The mid range to top end power is feels good, The engine seems to run out of puff around 7500. The reversion problem seems to be just off idle, bliping the throttle at idle you can see the effect, driving it only seems to happen at a full throttle launch of idle, This wont effect the speedway car as idle performace is not a issues with rolling starts. So I think I'm getting a better understanding. Reversion can happen at both just as the inlet valve open or just as it closes ? Or could be due to valve overlap ? So my current plan of attack is. Change the exhaust as I think the theory about the exhaust backing up seems right. ( noting old cam had 2 deg overlap the new has 10 deg overlap at 50thou) Next then reset cam timing advance or retard ? Finally change cam,( noting phase angle change is a must ?) Also the speedway engine gets sealed up Monday so drop engine in speedway car and see if it has same issues. Cam spec's are ............... Cam lift / Duration adv / Duration 50thou / phase / timing adv open / timing adv close / timing 50thou open / timing 50thou close Intake........295____290_________228__________109_____34 btdc_______76 abdc________8 btdc_________40 abdc Exhaust....295____290_________ 228_________... ______ 72 bbdc______38 atdc_________46 bbdc________2 atdc Over lap adv 72 Over lap 50th 10 Thanks To all for feedback so far. Andy

I'm getting inlet reversion. Interesting thing to see the air / fuel mix being pushed upwards out of the carby. The set up is 3k with a bigport, 3k BP inlet manafold, 60 thou of the head, stock exhaust manafold, cam grind is wade 446b. Compression is 150 psi per pot all are within 5 psi. I have opened up the vavle lash to 20 thou hot and advanced ignition timing to 12 seems a bit better. Cam timing is running as per Wades recommedation. Should I be looking at dropping a small port head on ? Or changing cam with a increase of phase angle ? Has anyone else had a simlar problem ? Thanks Andy

Geelong Carbys is the go. Just about every speedway corolla runs one of his carbys. Once rebuilt he can also dyno the car to get the jetting right

We use a camber plate at the bottom for speedway. The design is simlar to the sketch but we also move the strut forward to increase castor. As we only turn left and spend more time turning than going straight, The plate works fine. Stresses on the plate don't seem to be a issue, However the lower balljoint gets forced into a strange angle, If you make the plate any thicker than 14mm or push the strut out more than 40mm, you will reach the limit of the balljoints movment. (Can Supply pix if interested ) We hit the wall a few weeks back, this hit moved the wheel back some 60mm and also moved the subframe across some 30mm measured at the rear k frame bolts. The items destroyed were Mag wheel, Lower control arm, strut radius rod, K frame, steering box, and subframe, The castor plate remained unbent. We have used strut bends in the past and had them fail, We found the plate a much more reliable option. We only run the plate on the right. The strut plate does look dodgey, and stresses on the balljoint are a concern, I wont use them on my street car. I would be interested if you could model the stresses on the plate and am happy to supply dimentions. We are governed rules and can only use one of three options. Adjustable tops. Strut bends. Camber plate. For us the camber plate is the best option, I would like to run longer LCA's with coilovers but rules wont allow. At the end of the day, I don't like the camber plate but its our best option for the rules.

I've done it both ways. If you only pull the engine out, There's a few more bolts to undo, but It can be a bugger getting the gearbox lined up when reinstalling. If you leave the gearbox on, you need to have the engine and box almost vertical to get it in or out, but you wont have that drama of lining up the gearbox. Option one is a bit simpler, but if you need both out option 2, just drain the box first and cap the end of the box and have a big bit of cardboard under the car to catch any gear oil. Has anyone unbolted the K frame and lifted the body off the engine ? I'd like to know how that worked. Cheers Andy

Does the box have bolts or studs in the inspection plate as there are a few variants ? Andy

Jimmy thats cool, I don't run it on my daily driver. Works great on the speedway car but hey that never see's any bitumen, but remember the stresses the speedway car see's is far greater than any road car will see it its life. Where limited by rules, I found that camber tops did not offer the adjustment I needed, swaping LCA is not allowed, strut bends are prone to failure. We have a high casualty rate on all components, ( shocks 12 months, LCA, K frames, steering boxes 2 years, shells about 3 or 4 years ) Just wanted to point out some times you need to think out of the square, and sometimes it works and sometimes it dosn't. If you do go down the strut bend path I would reinforce it. Regards Andy

I like it speedway style.

I like it, But then again I have a thing for 3k's. my wife thinks its quite strange. Andy

Hey Check this out. Datto with 4k. http://www.oldschool.co.nz/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=17619 CYA Andy

Good thinking. I grabbed some from the wreakers a few weeks back, Cause mine are broken too. Bugger I should have waited and fixed them. Cheers Andy

Another good trick, If she's getting hot, Pull the choke to make it run rich, that works wonders too. Andy

Also Not sure about the tailshaft, I think the splines may be different ? Can anyone confirm this ? Andy

Yep sure will Check out FAQ/WiKi in top tool bar. CYA Andy

Yep Think your right, Just picked up another KE55 granny spec auto. Now got 2, 3 speeds and one 2 speed to off load. Any takers there free just PM me. Andy

Two reasons. Keeps the valve guides well oiled less friction more smooth, as it illegal to run any form of top end lubricant in our class. Main reason is makes you engine look stuffed to the people you are racing against, your seen as less of a threat, and as some lazy arse that couldn't be bothered rebuilding his engine. Cheers Andy

I got a 3k trimatic, for free you can have. I also have a 2 speed 3k if you give me a hand pulling it out you can have that as well. I'm in Frankston Vic. Cheers Andy

I put a post up awhile back. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/44925-bigport-manifolds-for-3k You want the early bigport, but you will need to hog out the plemium chamber and run extractors as the exhaust manafold is different to later big port inlet manafolds. A second option could be midport manafold and port match, I have a few mid port manafolds lying around, and are desperate for a standard bigport manafold, if you have a spare we could work a deal ? as the class we race we must run stock exhaust manafolds and the early bigport exhaust manafold is too restrictive. Cheers Andy

We don't run any valve stem seals. The 3k smokes a bit on start up and when you back off, but the valve guides get plent of lube.