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Everything posted by B.L.Z.BUB
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I had an incident the other day while towing a trailer. I was over taking a slower car and a guy was pulling out of super cheap over two lanes into the lane I was merging into. There was no merging lane for him to wait in. As I merged and he tried to, the trailer and his car contacted. Not much damage just some black marks from the trailer tyres. Just wondering if I was wrong for not seeing him pulling out and I shouldn't of changed lanes of if he should have given way. I'm not sure either way. Personally I reckon it was bad timing on both our parts, but at the same time he didn't have a safe place to wait for traffic to clear. I was clearly indicating, I think he was trying to beat traffic. Worth fighting? I haven't accepted blame but did exchange details. I'm sure I'll need to talk to a professional about it but thought I'd ask here to get some ideas.
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he asked how to get the cluster out... But that's how I'll do my cable, good idea.
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Cheers bro. Really wanted those wheels done today but I ran out of time. Gonna be a few late nights this week I think. And still no word from the people interested in my rims. Damn it. Need tyres!!!!
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You need to get this on the road so we can go on a matt black cruise. Is that just a random rim???
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I achieved pretty sweet results just with the block of wood and a normal hammer. These aren't finished but already look sweet. I did all 4 but you get the idea from these. The rear guards are a bit trickier as they are thicker and you need to do a lot more precision bashing.
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Pics of dodgy paint to compare to my dodgy paint, I'm guessing it was your challengers you painted?
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Pull the plastic surround off, there are a few screws, then i think there are 4 screws holding the cluster in. Then slide the cluster out, you'll prob have to reach in behind and unclip the speedo cable, push the speedo cable through the fire wall a bit more from the engine bay side if you need more room. There will also be a wire cluster plugged in the back.
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Wheels are 13's and it did the same thing with 4 speed to 5 speed. And my new 15's are pretty much the same diameter with 50 series on them. Ill look into that plug thing, its not a huge issue. Not something I need to worry about anyway but seeing as there was a speedo cable topic thought I might ask.
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Would an unlubed cable cause mine being out by 10k? IE 110 for 100kph, I always have to be 10 kph higher.
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Guards are pretty straight forward, I just followed the Topic in the Tech Articles. Took about an hour and a half. Cleaned up the wheels a bit, ran out of primer after 3.
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It might be a good idea to get some new leads. But if the other ones feel tight they will probably do the job. If they keep popping off, replace them.
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It sounds like there is a loose connection somewhere. Mine stopped and wouldn't start and it ended up being the power to the starter motor had come off. I'm not saying its that but it sounds as if there is one connection in your ignition system that is shaking loose. And I'm not being a dick but are you out of fuel? Its happened before ;)
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Good article, following these directions right now, its actually quite a basic process. Those guards are extremely malleable and don't need too much persuasion to form the shape you want. EDIT: And I'm just using a normal hammer and a block of wood. I'll put some pics up when I'm done.
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Quoted from Ben aka Themintke70 I'm going to get real nitty gritty...... The hi cam 4k engine has the following differences: 1, Different air filter assembly and duct pipe which goes out through the front wheel arch as opposed so sucking air in from behind the battery. 2, Revised emissions gear, visually there are fewer valves hanging off the hicam fitler housing compare to the series one ke70 4k unit which had more valves and hoses. 3, On the drivers' side strut tower is prvisions for a vacuum valve for the hi cam models which is joined to the dizzy assembly. Non hi cam models had this. 4, Hi cam ke70s have a different radiator (finer core), instead of having a plastic fan cowl which covers the whole back of the radiator, the hicam models only had a tin plate tacked to the top tank so the fan had more exposure and quieter operating i.e less fan noise. 5, Hi cam engines had a viscous clutch fan, instead of a constant drive fan, again for more efficent and quiet running. 6, A slightly larger diameter exhaust system than a non hi cam ke70. 7, recalibrated camshaft, igintion, emission and carby system for better performance and drivability. The hi cam engine if anything was slightly more flexible to compare to the non hicam engine in terms of revving out, but only slightly. Lastly, power and torque figures were up from 47kw and 98nm to 49kw and 100nm from all these mods... Now that should answer youre question, Ben. First thing that came up when I googled 4k hi-cam.
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I'll see if I can swing it.
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I own a falcon, but don't tell anyone... Hang on, damn it.
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Test fit with 8mm spacers. Looks like ill be bashing those guards out. Still no reply from the dudes keen to buy my rims. Might use my rego money for tires and hope they sell before it runs out.
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How many K's, budget, etc. Mines done 650,000 k's and still goes sweet. Easier probably to source a decent 5k, bolts straight in minimal fuss, and spend cash making that run better.
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Ha ha I'm surprised it took 50 minutes and Trev didn't even say it or something similar.
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KY, but only for the back seat ;)
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Looks like an elongated pergeot hard top convertible. But worse. I actually want to rinse my eyes with disinfectant. Where's the :puke: gif???
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Sectetly they all want a rolla ;)
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Yeah my mate told me, "There come a time when you grow up and stop buying pieces of shit.", it's a Rolla thing, they just don't understand. BTW he owns a purple Nissan Primera Wagon with white mags. Fag.
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My local wrecker tried to sell me ke70 tail lights for 110 bucks...each.

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