robj

Thanks guys! Last night I tried a number of different things with the cooling system to try and get it work with a thermostat. Including filling the colling system from the bleed valve I recently put behind the head. But no luck. The temp went over 100C, and there was no water flow at all. The water in the radiator was very cold. I bought a new thermostat, but that didn't change things either. Not surewhat's happening. Seems to work OK with a restrictor plate. I made a restrictor plate, but drilled too many holes, but it did help. A bit too much water flow. Might try make another one tonight with fewer holes. Thanks John for checking out your nephew's setup.

If I have no prior engagements, I'll take the rolla for it's 'virgin' cruise.

Thanks for the comments! Took it for another spin last night, ahh the joys.

Well, the project is now registered, and a blast to drive on the road! I've spent too much on 98 octane in the past week, but well worth it. My mate (Jonny) and I have been taking turns behind the wheel and the other in the passanger seat with the hand controller, and last night have pretty well sorted out the tuning side, the motor is purring along. I've set the rev limiter to 7000, and it pulls well all the way to it. To accelerate and be ahead at the "traffic light drag" only need 3500 rpm change points, and will get up the big steep hills near where I live in 5th easily. Back a gear (or two) and it takes off well. The LSD is tight, and I'm happy with the overall gearing and tightness of the car too. Will play around with the adjustable shocks in a while, but they are doing great on the curvey back roads. It ran too hot with a thermostat, but tends to run too cold (50 - 65C) without it. A few little issues like that, but all in all good. Hopefully get a few pics soon. A happy driver, rob.

I used a 1 inch hilux one, but had to make an adaptor (about 25mm thick) as the bolts are 90 degrees out. Pretty easy to do. Used the standard rod too. This is with hilux /pug.corona strut conversion on my KE25 (TE27 lookalike). Most hilux ones are 15/16', from my browsing around. Hooked it up to a remote brake booster, VH44.

Thanks, Keirn. Have you picked up those other KE20 parts yet? rob

I have an open centre. PM me if you are interested.

Hi guys. I got a custom one made for mine, triangulated back to the reinforced firewall. FYI, KE20/25 come in two (2) different PCD for the top of the strut towers. Might want to check which one (ones) you guys have got before ordering and sending over dimensions. Cheers robj

That's sure is a bright colour. Good to see you're still doing your project. The cage looks good. What flares did you end up using? They are obviously bigger than the TE27 ones I have got on my car.

Yep, that is what I did, sort of. The clutch "shaft" in the pedal box assembly is about 60mm long, so it is moved far enough over to miss the brake master cylinder. I actually replaced the small clutch lever (which is made for a cable) and put a bit of metal there, with a hole to accept the end of the master cylinder. From this hole to the pivot point, it is about 57mm. I might actually make it a bit longer, which will reduce the amount of pedal travel nneded, probably about 65mm. The possiton of the master cylinder (in my case) will accept this extra length.

Whiteline kit, which included 2" Lowering blocks and U bolts for a Corona or Sigma, can't remember which one. I had two kits for a while. I used the standard backing plates, and even though the lengths of the U Bolts are not exactly parallel, they are not too bad. I was able to bend the U Bolts by hand to make them fit the standard backing plates. Without the 2" spacer, they would be, in my opinion, too "unparallel." I think there is enough metal on the original backing plate to file away some metal, to get them exactly parallel. But you'll have to check that for yourself.

Not sure if the strut brace is OK'ed or not on that one, Redwarf. More interested in club days and driving/racing it for fun, rather than competiton.

It was going to be a daily driver, and to some extent will be. Nice Saturday drives with my wife will be great too. As it is, my two children won't be able to fit in the back any more, but the intentions of using it as a family car were not very often anyway. The more I look at my car, the more I seem to be willing to compromise luxury (if that is ever a true term for early corollas) for a good handling car. And the idea of doing more track time.... The difference in handling from before the cage and after was noticeable straight away. Going over the same bump/gutter on my mate's longish driveway where the cage was put in was very noticeable. And the car was already seam welded. It went over it before the cage with a minor shake, and after the cage was put in it was definately tighter. Have made a custom strut brace for it too. It goes between the struts and triangulates back to the firewall, where some more reinforment metal was welded in. Haven't put that on yet, though. It is powder coated the same colour as the super lites.

I'm using a wolf 3D, version 3.

More pics

Some pics of the cage, including feet and where the computer is.

Different bonnets (old bonnets are slightly shorter in the middle, and rounded, later models have more of a point like lj toranas). Switches etc are often different, and front guards are too. Mechanically, I haven't noticed any differences, except the different front eyes of the leaf suspension. Some early KE's have a small bush. I had difficulty getting the small one, and actually made some bushes out of nylon. One of my cars doesn't have a water feed back system (forgot the real name) for the radiator, other ones do. robj

Naa, no training. More just got some good friends who are really good at this stuff, Aaron and Jonny. Aaron has just finished putting a rollcage in my car, an excellent job. It's an 8 point cage, and now is painted in 2 pac black. On the weekend I located the aftermarket computer in the car (hopefully for the last time), and used a bit of stainless to make a blanking bit for just underthe dash, where the stereo normally sits. I can't fit a stereo there, because the firewall is recessed, and the heater sits a lot further back. I'll try get a few pics of the cage up this week.

I paid around 230 for the complete set of bushes (not rubber ones) they were super pro ones. That's for my early KE25. Some early KE25's have small bushes for the front of the rear leaf, other early KE 20/25's have the larger one. I had trouble getting the small ones, so had them machined from nylon, around 35 dollars.

Another thing to consider is that even if the bolt spacing is the same, the offset of the ball joint may be different. For example, I have corona struts on my KE25, which are the same bolt spacing as the AE86. So I tried on the AE86 steering arms, and they wouldn't fit. Because the LCA was touching the discs. Sure, you could tap the lip on the LCA, but not advised, obvioulsly weakens it a bit. Off centre Roll Centre Adjusters may be the answer, but that changes things like camber and track too.

Well, that's an idea I haven't thought of yet. It would be a fun thing to have!

I know the car you're talking about that got T boned, a shame that. It's not me. Yes, they are also restoring a KE25, a later model one, that's orange in colour - well was when I saw it last. I'll have to bring the KE25 up north some time, I lived in L'ton for 21 years, and my folks live out that way too.

Hobart

Thanks for the nice words. A mate of mine, Aaron actually did the panhard rod. I've got a 4.11 t series diff with a 1.5 way trd lsd. Obviously a different ratio would suit a tight track, but hopefully I have a fairly strong midrange. I tried to look at the pics you sent me of my car, but couldn't access them. Keen to see them. About the crownwheel and pinion ratios, I'll ask a few of my more 'toyota guru' mates, and see if they know of anything.

Now with TE27 flares, I'm happy with the result. it was hard to see the guards being cut though. :)