robj

A few pics of the panhard rod mount, a bit hard to see though. It is braced about to the middle of the car, laterally speaking.

Took the motor forward, had the firewall painted, and put the motor back it it's original position. That job took the best of 2 days to do, rather than a few hours. (I guess I did fix up a few other things too.) Had to 1. disconnect the clutch and brake master cylinders, 2. disconnect the wiring from behind the motor, 3. drop the steering draglink 4. disconnect fuel lines 5. and more to get the motor forward enough to be able to paint it. I guess it took a bit of time, hopefully don't have to take the motor out in a hurry. I had a hole in the firewall which is almost completely 'blocked' by the standard heater's motor. but to finish it a bit better, I bought a $2 tin bowl from Habitat, primed and painted it, and sikaflexed it over the hole. While the motor was out, I looked at some earlier heater hose plumbing I had done, and saw it to be somewhat unsatisfactory, so rerouted that too. I don't particulary want to have to move the motor forward to fit a heater hose! The new way should fix that problem.

James, it's nice idea to put in a R and P in an old car. first of all, I don't clame to be a guru of suspension/ steering. But from what I understand, it isn't just the x member width you need to consider. you'll need to shorten the rack a fair bit, as the KE20 LCA are long, resulting in a short distance (approx 51cm) between the inner pivot points of the LCA. AND the rack length will need to be slightly shorter than this again to elliminate bumpsteer (assuming you are using steering knuckles which are going to give you some ackerman). From a few sources I've talked it , and my own thoughts on it, it is no small project. I don't understand all the imaginery lines and centres invoved with steering and suspension. I recon when it is done properly, it would be a great thing. Keen to see this KE11 with a rack in it. PM me if possible, love to see it. Cheers, robj

A few more pics, including a level Panhard rod. Thanks Aaron!

Well done a bit since last time, including a 1 1/2 way trd lsd, and a panhard rod. Currently working on a strut brace, and in the next month or so, a roll cage. The shell is seam welded, and with the cage, it should be reasonalby stiff. I dummy fitted the bonnet and grill, for the pics. All the wiring is sorted out now, even the heater works, with it's weird potion on the firewall.

Pm'd robj

Well here is my findings. I have an early KE20, and an early KE 25. I also have a late KE20 and a late KE25. (Go the old corolla!!!) I know that the early KE 25 grill and the late KE 25 grills will not fit each other. They have different mounting points on the car. I think the same is true for the KE20's. But I haven't physically tried them or measured them against each other. Also I know that the early KE 20 grill does not fit the early KE25. (tried that too). robj

Stilll after one. bump

Looks like you've spent a lot of time on your toy! keep up the good thinking and enjoy the ride.

Hi. After an early model bonnet (or just bonnet front trim) for a KE20 corolla. Please PM me. It Can be any where in the state. robj

Nice corolla you've got there! How long have you been working on this particular one? What have you done in the suspension setup on the KE20? (The pic off the sprinter looks great!) robj

I'm not wanting to go against this thead's guidelines, so if any moderator wants to copy this for a technical thread (as opposed to rides, please do. :) I don't know how to. The manifold used the original runners, but obviously cut, shortened and so a different shape from standard. Also, this way the TB can be where it is, if you look at the pics. Normally the TB would be facing the wrong way, about where the coil is for spark plug number 4! I want to getthe car road rego'ed, then tinker sort out any suspension dramas (spring rates, bars, etc). After I am happy with the handling, I'll probably try rack and pinion and possible quad throttle bodies (when I get used to the current power). I has been a big job, with lots of time spent on it , and even more thinking time than doing time. But, it is coming to gether, and now being able to actually drive it (only slowly) in my deadend road /culdersack has been great, even my neighbours are into it. :yak: drivetrain set up: (how I "hooked itiup") 2 s bellhousing fork and bearing, longer spigot bearing , custom gearbox crossmember.

Replying for my mate Jonny. Used GH sigma LCA. If you use these, make sure you get the metal sleeve that sits in the LCA inner bushes, as when you order the new ones, they don't come with them. (Well, not from Repco, anyway). Also, had to machinethe urethane bush down a bit, as it is a bit too wide for the KE25 crossmember. The sigma arm was about 3-5mm longer than the KE25 ones. Steering arms: well, a pain. Dispite the AE86 haveing the same distance between the bolts on the strut (87mm), the knuckle wouldn't fit on mine because the offset of the bolt holes with repect to the LCA ball joint was too much, resulting in the LCA actually touvching the disc. (AE86 p/s knuckles would be nice if they fitted, as only 5mm longer than standard KE2# knuckles). SO i have used I think KE30# knuckles, or some arly celica ones. But they are too long, 142mm, as opposed to 105mm for KE25. When driving down the road, it needs lots of turns for a small bend. I can by law cut and heat treat the knucckles, but not ideal. Toying with actually modifying KE2# knuckles, which would require machining out the exsisting holes to a larger diameter and taper. OR start from scratch, and make new ones. But with all that comes the great bump steer calculations and ackerman stuff that makes it hard to get right, if your just an ammeture like me. ps. rack and pinion would be good, but a lot of work too. Haven't seen one done on my sort of car . Google search "the flea" with "corolla" and you can find a good bit of info and pictures. robj

Give me a PM and I'll hunt down the details of the guy who organised the the flares. They were molded off the TE27 metal ones, and dummy fitting them they fitted well.

As Jonny said, he's done a lot of work on it. Spring rate is 250lb/in, I have some heavier coils if need be, 380lb/in.

It'll be my car to get to work in. I'll try it around the track, but that's not it's main purpose.

Some more pics

I probably just could have done the motor in it without the firewall mods, but then the pickup in the dizzy would have to be moved (possible to front of cam, or crank angle senor. But the wieght further back looked good to me.

Yep, weight back, and the belhousing hit the drag link when turning sharp

Hi. Not really computer literate, but finally got some pics of my car. I drove it up and down my deadend road, a bit of fun! Driveline has a Gen 2 3sge from a MR2 SW20. w58 gearbox shortened tailshaft (corona-) RA23 t series diff, standard celica (yet do LSD). Suspension / brakes Coilovers front, revalved Koni's ST141 stuts, pueguot discs, hilux calipers extra leaf in rear, koni reds Hilux master cylinder, remote booster. a heap of custom bits for this conversion. Thanks to a couple of mates for helping with all this stuff (jonny rochester and aaron martin)

Don't have any pictures (still on the digital camera) as I am so computer literate. Actually, don't know even how to do these messages without quotes!!!. I must get a mate of mine to do the picture to computer thingo. Sorry. robj

I have one (am doing one) at the moment. Car is driveable. As mentioned, a lot of fabrication. I have it in a KE25, issues with steering hitting belhousing (2s behousing) , custom manifolds, converted to hydrolic clutch, remote brakebooster etc. etc. But it does sound nice, and from my first little drive down the street, seems to have reasonable torque withthe short inlet runners. robj