robj

KE26 Wagon,I can't help you with part numbers, but can tell you what I did. I went to a 4x4 wrecking yard and got a master cylinder from a hilux/landcruiser. (Most are I think 15/16)" mine just happend to be Identical in shape to the common master cylinders for these 4wd, but a 1". We did make an addaptor plate for the master cylinder to fit, about a 25mm spacer, with holes for the locating bolts. (They sit horizontal, not verical). Went to ABS and said "Can I have a VH44 master cylinder?" They said "Yep." One thing to remember is the VH44 is imperial thread, not metric. It cost me around $300. Then a bit more for the brake lines and fittings. Hope that makes sence...

I agree with Jono about mixing the early and late model grills/bonnets. If you do a bit of surgery to make them fit, you'll notice that the late model grills tend to stick out more forward than the early ones. For infact, the CENTRE part of the bonnet on the late model is longer than the early ones. They have a "shark nose" like the LJ toranas. The point. I tried all these things with my early/late KE20's and KE25's, when trying to source different bits and pieces.

I'm using a VH44 remote brake booster in my KE25, with a 1" Master cylinder. I have it (like Jono) in the place where the battery normally is. I'll try get the link to my thread, where there are a few pics of it, showing the setup. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=11909 This setup gives plenty of pedal feel, but not too stiff, my (small) wife can drive it easy. Using 4pot hilux calipers, and RA23 drums on the back. Booster only linked to the front.

Until a few weeks ago, 8km/litre in my 3sge KE25. But recently tuned the light load settings from 2000-3500rpm to about 17:1 AFR (as opposed to previous 13.5:1). Also upped the timing alot at light loads- (which I can do safely in this load range) with the WOLF 3D. Last tank I got better than 10.5 km litre, or 9 litres per 100km. Thats going over big hills, and through the city each day. Happy with that!!

I paid 160 or 180 for each of my new 14x6 superlites. With OK tires it was $1100. That was a bit over a year ago, and includes getting them to Tassie.

I run a RA23 T series diff, with a trd 1 1/2 way LSD. Cost of the diff and panhard rod: $140. The centre: $550. The welding and cutting off of the original leaf spring mount onto the T series: A few hours work. My mate made a Panhard rod setup on the car chassis, I think $150 or so. Total cost around $850, with bushes. NOTE: I run TE27 flares, and 14x6 mags with 185/60 tires. They fit the guards just perfect, about 15mm spacing from each flare/ innerguard.

Well done, Taz_Rx. NickZ for your info too. Good to see some creative and lateral thinking going on.

Well, you're 100kg better than mine! I guess the cage, W series 3s will soon add up the weight. I don't have a rear seat in mine anymore either. weight on cars is like money, you don't realise how a little bit here, a little bit there soon adds up to heaps. And HEKTIC, yeah, possibly r and pinion. It is easier in a KE30-55 though, they have shorter LCA, and tierods similar in length to many racks.

I don't know if I'll do anymore about weight distribution. So far, without even having adjusted basic things like damper ratings, it is handling well for me, so I doubt it. Feeling more confident taking the car to its' limit than Iwas a few months ago. I don't know if that's a good thing, I'm having to exercise self-control, and save it for the track. :fuzz: More keen in getting a better steering feel. Now THAT could be a job in itself.... :bash:

Nah, unfortunately got something else on this weekend.

This may interest some people. Weighed my car a few days ago. With the tank almost on empty (3 odd litres of few), WITHOUT DRIVER this was the findings. Note though, the increments on the scales go up in 20kg. With the FRONT END on the scales: 520 kg. With the REAR END on the scales: 420 -440 kg. Scales wavered between these two figures. With the whole car on it, it showed 940-960kg. Scales wavered between these two figures. A bit heavier than I expected, but I haven't stripped my shell, although there is no carpet in it. At least the sums add up. Particulars of my car, weight wise. 3sge motor rather far back in engine bay (back of head is 2.5cm further back than standard firewall, block on line of standard firewall. rollcage 40-50kg? light battery in the book 7kg. Tseries diff with lsd So I guess with around 1/2 a tank, I would be looking at 520kg on the front 450kg at the rear 970kg total. That makes the front end 53.5% rear end 46.5%

I found a bit of a leak in the inlet manifold, which is now fixed, and earlier this week I raised the rear of the car an inch, as it occasionally bottomed out on the curvey B grade roads. Took it over some bumpy roads, no dramas at all now! I've been still playing around with the wolf 3d, and using some of the functions on that, such as fuel cut out on over run etc. As I have the cigarette lighter working now, I'll plug in the exhaust analyiser thingy up the exhaust pipe that my mate has, to really give it a better tune too. Gives the composition of what comes out of the exhaust.

Yeah, That's me. PM me and give me your number. I'll contact you and then you can ask a way. Rob.

I think KE 30. They are 132 mm as opposed to 108mm(I think). So the steering is slow. That is annoying. A lot of engineers, will accept shortened steering knuckles if properly heat treated. These knuckles have heaps of meat on them to weld, about 3 times the KE20 ones. If you keep the KE20 control arms, I know that some people (well known high class racers) have elongated the holes in the KE 20 steering knuckles and put in supporting sleeves, to properly locate the steering knuckle to the strut. This has been successfully "tested" on the racetrack for 5 years without any problems, but I'm not too sure about it. Otherwise, it is custom steering knuckles, which I am inclined to do. I'm considering rack and pinion too. That can be a big job too.. Cheers, Rob.

Close Lindsay :D I have sigma control arms in mine, they are about 3 mm different than the standard KE20 ones. About 30mm longer than KE30's KE55etc. They also have the same Balljoint taper (14mm) as the KE30's celicas, coronas etc, NOT the 12mm balljoint taper of the KE 20's. So they are good if you are using Corona/celica steering knuckles.

KE 20 and KE25 are the same. You need to specifly wether you are after early or late model ones. The ones from your pics of your white KE25 are early model ones. That is, no provision for the seperate indicators which are on the newer ones.

Good to see another KE25. I like them.

I agree with curly and irokin. Firstly, check that the pinion angle is correct, and slightly downwards facing. That way under power it should be about straight with the tail shaft. A little off topic, but this may be applicable....What I also did to help with leaf springs on my car is the following. Take the leafs out of the car, but still in the pack. Bend some steel around all the way round the leaves on the FRONT part of the spring (Frontwards of the diff). Do this at 2 or 3 areas, near where each spring starts. Clamp the steel around the spring, so it is tight, with a few mm gap where you will weld the ends together. Weld the steel, and so that it cools, pulls tight and effectively makes the front part of the spring more of a lateral locator. This idea is in one of Carroll Smith's books. (F1 team manager from yesteryear). His books are great, called 1.Tune to win 2.Drive to win, 3. Engineer to win. I bought them for around $100, and they have definately saved me more than that in stupid mistakes. The "Springing" part of the leaf set up will be the back half of the leafs. This setup may help slightly with limiting the twisting due to torque, eg hard launches. BUT from what I understand about fulcrums, lowering blocks will act as a bigger leaver, meaning the torque of a motor or affect of hitting a bump, will cause more strain on the rear setup, often resulting in more twisting movement. So actually having the leaves reset, say and inch or 2 lower may be a better option, despite this usually meaning a light increase in roll steer from the rear. Hope that makes sence, and helps you with your setup. Rob

As far as I understand, no. That goes for TE27's as well, which had the T series diff in it. A friend of mine bought an aftermarket (white line 16mm rear bar) for his car, bit had hassels with it as he had a bigger diff (G series hilux) in it. If this is your case, it may be worth checking it out before spending money... :lolcry:

Hi! Nah, they aren't the ones I got from you. I'm keeping them 'just in case!' They were in good nic. Thanks, Tally.

Thanks HEKTIC. Yeah, been driving it a fair bit, and very happy with it. I have a (growing) list of what I am going to do with it after it is rego'ed. Firstly make the steering quicker as it is slower than standard. Also, for my wife's sake too, put in some sound deadening and carpet, it's very loud over 5000rpm. :hmm: I will raise the back an inch or so, have bottomed it out a few times alread over the curvey bumpy roads. As far as power goes, more than happy with the top end (5000 - 7000rpm), but maybe would like a bit more between 3500 - 5000. I haven't really tuned that area yet, but compared to the top end, seems to run (and sound) a touch flat. If I can't get moreout of it in that range, not worried, as it still has a good midrange. Quads cams etc? nah, not in the forseeable future. The top end is doing me well at the moment. :lolcry: I'm impressed with the responsiveness of the car and motor... move the pedal, and everything else moves striaght away. I guess the short inlet runners will help with that. Rob.

I know that when you deal with a lot of people in the car / fabrication industry, there are some you will not go back to. Then there are those who you trust. Two guys I can highly recommend are Aaron (AZCUSTOM fabrications) and Jonny who both did a lot of the on the car. If anyone wants thier contact details, PM me and I'll pass you on. Aaron did a lot of the structural stuff such as the strut brace, firewall support and panhard rod and rollcage fabrications. Jonny was invaluable, also for info and part knowledge. Can't rate these 2 guys highly enough. I made a more restrictive water outlet, works wellish, (70C - 90C), but will adress it soon, as it is not ideal. Another pic...

A few Pics of the 'rolla I took yesterday.

Very nice. Credit to all the work you must have put into it. It must have HEAPS of torque, a real fun car to drive. Keen to see more details of the conversion. Sure there are others of us too who would like to get a closer look. Well done!