mlaser

Found it, it's a JB4058 19.05mm Bore Anyone happen to know of a direct replacement that has a larger bore size? doubtful but worth a shot.

Hi All, Wondering if anyone can confirm if the picture below contains a ae86 clutch slave cylinder. It's for my ke25 which has a w57 gearbox with a t50 to w5x bellhousing. I know its not a w57 slave cylinder as the one i bought is apparently for a MA61 and it doesnt fit. So if someone could confirm or deny or identify what clutch slave cylinder this actually is that would be great. The only identifying marks on it are....tcic 3/4 9617. Cheers

yep re-measured and it looks to be spot on. Made the mistake of looking at it as individuals as opposed to as a whole. Reminds me that i shouldnt make judgements at 4:30am before I go to work. What threw me was looking at pics of a mates ke25 which is obviously higher than mine as he has a gap between the tyre wall and the wheel arch on the front and back while i only have a gap between the front wheel arch and the tyre. This brings up another question, I'd always assumed (i know i know no assumptions) that the reason my front wheel scrubbed on the inner wheel arch when in full lock (closest to driver) was because the rear was too low. Now that I know that there isn't a difference can someone point me in the direction as to why this would be happening?

Hi All, Got a question that I hope might get a response before I head back to the suspension place tomorrow. Got my leafs reset yesterday, was in a mad rush when I picked it up and just jumped in the car and left. After the mess around that caused my rush I inspected the job that was done. The reason I got my leafs reset was because they were flat. I had specified to have the leafs reset, extra leaf for stiffness and a half rebound leaf to deal with tramp. I asked for the height to match the front, and figured that would be pretty self explanatory. My question is why would you ever have the front height higher than the rear? is this a better set up or is it normal/better to always have the ride height the same at the front and at the rear? edit: after staring at the image for a while now i'm wondering if the wheel arches are actually different front to back, never noticed it before and not sure if i'm just seeing things. old pic from a few years ago pic taken today Cheers after staring at the image for a while now i'm wondering if the wheel arches are actually different front to back, never noticed it before and not sure if i'm just seeing thing

I'd say battery and alternator is a great place to start. If your lights are working and your testing at night just see if the lights get brighter as you rev the engine. If they do then your alternator is still working, if they don't then chances are it's not performing. If it is your alternator check it's rating as if your running a standard ke20 alternator then it might not like all the extra juice it has to kick out for your sub and amp. Hope you get it sorted, good luck

more oil seal dramas. Went to pick up the seals from Gardner Bearings and thankfully i brought the hub with me. Despite the dude checking the dimensions with a vernier caliper, it seems to that guy 53mm is the same as 52mm......................So another dick around all because of a stupid seal. After ringing around a few bearing places i ended up having to talk to CBC bearings again. Thankfully i called head office in regency this time and got some actual customer service, eventually after being told there is no such thing as a 53mm outer diameter oil seal the dude found out that there is a 53mm outer diameter oil seal but its for a ke30 or ke55. So finally i have the correct oil seal and can finally put the car back together. All i have to do now is get home and do it, can't believe its taken a week to find the right seal.

While driving home the other day had the car pull to the right. Investigated it that night and figured it must be the wheel bearing. So on the weekend after getting a bearing kit from CBC i went to fix it. The outer bearing was fuxored so changing it was a good idea. UNFORTUNATELY the oil seal that comes with the CBC bearing kit is WRONG. It sits loose in the hub, is off by like 1mm and the guys at CBC were no help just said "sorry that the oil seal we have for those kits and we don't have a seal that is the size you want" so hats off to CBC for selling something wrong in a kit and having no solution or even offering to give me my money back for the seals. Went to Toyota as they were practically next door, they had some in japan but it would be a min 3.5 week wait. Thankfully the guy at the desk was a good guy and told me to check out "Gardner Bearings Pty Ltd" at Gepps cross. Went down there and thankfully they had some in Melbourne so i should get them by thursday.

Update: Got the ke25 back last monday. New turbo installed and re-tuned, now produces 130kw which is around a 20kw gain just from changing the turbo. Still plenty of stuff to do to it but atleast its driving and not smoking. I'm a big fan of the guys down at Fours'n'more they did great work and didn't charge like a wounded bull, so they are highly recommended. Thats all for now

Update: Car was blowing smoke, wasn't sure whether it was valve stem seals, valve guides or turbo that was the culprit so i took it to my local mechanic and he basically came to the same conclusion and recommended i take it to rhemac in gawler. Took it there and after them having the car for a day they told me.....................looks to be turbo, valve stem seals or valve guides and to figure it out would require the head coming off and the turbo being sent away. Seeing as i live 40 mins drive from their shop i decided to take it somewhere local. Booked it in at "fours n more" and by the time it made it to them a exhaust leak had reared its ugly head. "fours n more" after having it for a day diagnosed that the major cause of the smoke was the turbo, which i was fine with as i had only paid 200 bucks for the turbo. So instead of getting the turbo rebuilt i decided to get a brand spanking new turbo. Decided on the garrett GT2560R, and the exhaust leak was from the turbo manifold. So hopefully soon the car will be back on the road.

the white one is looking quite good at the moment. I "sold" it to a mate of mine in exchange for a paint job on my ke25. He's since put in another 4k after he killed the one that was in it, stripped it back to bare metal and resprayed it white. He's also done extractors etc and it goes quite well.

ahhh, john and anthony bought it off you, and i bought it off john. I've also bought a car from you as well. I bought a white ke55 coupe off you around the time i bought the ke25.

I was told by "Rhemac" that the turbo oil drain/feeds were checked and looked ok. They said i should "borrow" someone else's known not smokey t25 if i could and check to see if that fixes the smoke issue but alas i know no-one in Adelaide with a t25 just lying around. I'll take pics and get some measurements of the drain/feed tonight (if i've got time) or if anyone works/lives north of adelaide wants to have a gander and tell me what they reckon let me know. Atm i don't have any immediate plans to get it sorted (next two weeks that is) as i don't have my other car running so i can't afford to have the ke25 gone for 4-5 days.

progress hrmmmm it depends on your definition. Headaches....yes have had no choice but to drive the car since i got it down here. Too busy to get my escort back on the road so that i can take the ke off the road and fix a bunch of little things. Got it tuned by BoostinOz who happened to be the only dyno place within 30 mins drive of me who would look at it because of the Adaptronic ECU thats in it. It's only putting out about 150hp atw running about 7psi. The most recent and annoying headache happened two weeks ago when i noticed the car blowing oil smoke. I figured it was turbo or motor and i'm not about to take the head off so i checked out the turbo dump to see if it had carbon build up and it seems fine. So i figured it was valve stem seals, took it to rhemac motors in gawler to see if they could figure it out and they couldn't. All they said was that it was either the valve stem seals or the guides......or the turbo. Apparently i found the problem too early for there to be any obvious signs of the culprit. SOOOOO i am aware that you can replace valve stem seals without pulling the head off, but after talking to the main dude at rhemac he basically said "yep you can BUT chances are if the valve stem seals are gone that there's probably an issue with the guides and so the best way is to take the head off and do it properly". He also told me that just to take the head off and inspect and put back together is gonna be about 1k min. So 1k to find the problem and then whatever cost on top of that to fix whatever issue they find. This basically puts back my idea of getting my diff done which i had planned to get done in the next few months. Other than that the car is going ok, my rear rubber windscreen rubber from Phil's rotary's doesnt fit properly, neither do the driver and passenger door window seals. So not much going right atm, no time to fix anything as i've got work, and a tafe engineering project to do but no choice. So my plan is this week to get the escort back on the road (headaches lots of headaches) so that i can get the ke fixed as the guys at rhemac will need it for atleast 4 days. The only option i have other than getting all that done is to borrow a garret t25 from someone and put it on my car to see if that rules the turbo out for the oil issue. At the moment i'd much prefer it to be turbo as spending over 1k for a couple of seals sucks compared to a nice shiny turbo. so yeah stuck between a nice rock and a hard place, its awesome.

Hey ke25 Punk, when do you think you owned it? The only owners I know about are Paul Pyvvara who sold it in 1999 and a guy named Aaron from the Gold Coast who was the guy my mate bought it off. I got the car dynoed by Boostin Oz in Salisbury, put out 150Hp atw with 7psi. Not bad, but still more to get out of it i think. I got the Tacho sorted through Gauge Works on Port Rd, The gauge works but i wasn't happy with the work they did. The wire running to the dash cluster is just hanging down, not zip tied or anything. They also forgot to secure the dash which i found out about on my way home as i turned the wipers on the whole dash came out so that was fun. I couldn't get the speedo done as I'm missing an adapter for the cable speedo. I haven't switched the rego over yet as I need to get rid of the bonnet pins first and need to get hold of a bonnet latch. Had one guy say he had one and was going to send me one but he never did it turns out. Haven't been doing much on it as i'm behind in my TAFE project which i need to get done in order to finish my Adv Diploma. So much little stuff to do, just need time.

the main reason i'm not expecting an issue is because the car isn't changing ownership. It was registered in qld in my g/f's name and will be staying in her name down here. STOP SCARING ME hehehe and raven, i've been waiting for the car to come so i could show you the car at the same time, I'm also really lazy and sick and tired of being on late shift. so will catch up soon when the car is here and has a speedo :y:

Cheers scott, I'm going to look at doing the gauge stuff myself, just a matter of figuring out what needs to be done. The situation as i know it (shady as it is) is that the w57 g/b is electronic while my original speedo is cable driven. So i can either get an electronic gauge, or get some sort of converter to change the electronic signal into a mechanical one (seems painful). The tacho i'm not sure whats the go there, i imagine it has something to do with the fact that the original 4k was a single coil and now i'm running a multi-coil so it would be very very very wrong. I've been told the easy fix is a new speedo and tacho As for the tune, i haven't found anyone in SA (northside) that has tuned an adaptronic before. I did speak to a guy at Boostworx who said if i bring in the software he will have a look at it and let me know if he is willing to do it. Rego in adelaide from the many conversations i've had with regency shouldnt be an issue. The car is engineered for QLD so i've been told all i have to do is rock up with the qld plates and rego sticker and they will give me new plates....fingers crossed. Also i have to fix the bonnet release (it doesnt have one). Originally no-one in bris who had access to my car could find the front radiator crossmember so they used a piece of steel and welded brackets for the radiator and intercooler onto that. When i came up over christmas and emptied the boot amazingly the crossmember was there. So i need to first source a bonnet release cable and the latch mechanism (anyone got one i'll buy it off ya)

Hey All, just putting in an update. Picked up car while up in Brisbane over the Christmas break. As usual not all the stuff that was meant to be done had been done but atleast I got to finally drive the car. Currently the car has not been properly tuned and only has a tune in there to get it running (RUNNING VERY RICH). Also car speedo and tacho haven't been hooked up so i didn't do alot of driving. Also cleared everything up with QLD transport. Car ended up costing more than i was hoping for (2k more than i was hoping for) but alot of stuff has been done. Heres the list of the parts replaced/fitted to the car -New clutch slave cylinder -New turbo XS blow off valve -Various Hoses -3" 21 Spline Tail shaft -Braided brake lines -Clutch master cylinder over hauled -Various Hose clamps -VH44 Brake booster & brackets -Various wiring switches, connectors etc -New Air filter -New exhaust, intercooler piping -New hand brake cable (EXPENSIVE) -New Accelerator cable Still to do List -Figure out how to get speedo and tacho working -Full Tune -Replace Diff -pick up dash off raven who is no doubt sick of holding it for me :P (thanks for putting up with me raven) I also took some picks of the car in the car park of the car transport place. So car will be in adelaide by next week i hope and then i'll be sorting out the speedo, tacho and tune. Can't afford diff for a while so i'll just be waiting for it to snap ;)

yeah it would be nice for things to go smoothly but alas its never the case. On a brighter note the car is a bee's pee pee away from being finished. Some scratches on the paint is being touched up atm. Then the front and rear windscreen will be re-installed with new rubbers and then all thats left is tune......and then diff once its down here. Mate of mine had to drive the car from my mechanics to his workshop with no front or rear windscreen, he used one of those clear visor thingos for protecting your face when grinding as his windscreen. Would have looked rather amusing.

there's alot of info on this site regarding ke20/25 diffs, just have to find it. From what i know, other than the ta22 your options are limited by your budget, as there really isn't anything that will bolt up that isn't rare. So your options other than the ta22 diff is any diff shortened down to suit your car. Unfortunately your up for some semi-serious dollars.

nah this mechanic is good, i've been dealing with him for like 8 years now, it was the previous mechanics darn up. The mechanic that has it now does tend to take his time with my stuff, but he charges me half price labour and all parts at cost so i can't complain when it takes a bit longer with him.

annoying update. I was starting to get all excited because my mechanic believed he would easily have the car done and ready to go on a truck down to Adelaide. So in preparation i decided to find the rego sticker etc and just have it handy for when it comes down, fortunately i noticed that the engine number looked odd. I was expecting a 4A-....... but instead the engine number says 2T :) so i rang qld transport because i remember that the pain in the arse mechanic was meant to take the car to qld transport to get inspected and hence engine number change, but alas he hasn't (no real surprise but just another thing to add the list of reasons i hate that guy). So now i've got to wait till i go up to QLD with my g/f over christmas and change the engine number then. So now at the earliest the car will be here first week or two of January.

annoying update. I was starting to get all excited because my mechanic believed he would easily have the car done and ready to go on a truck down to Adelaide. So in preparation i decided to find the rego sticker etc and just have it handy for when it comes down, fortunately i noticed that the engine number looked odd. I was expecting a 4A-....... but instead the engine number says 2T :) so i rang qld transport because i remember that the pain in the arse mechanic was meant to take the car to qld transport to get inspected and hence engine number change, but alas he hasn't (no real surprise but just another thing to add the list of reasons i hate that guy). So now i've got to wait till i go up to QLD with my g/f over christmas and change the engine number then. So now at the earliest the car will be here first week or two of January.

nah no real updates atm, currently waiting on a reconditioned vh44 remote brake booster from victoria. For anyone who is looking for such an item the place is called Hydroboost, they have been in buisness for over 60 years and were over 100 bucks cheaper than anyone else. Also thanks to some extra dosh that just came my way i'll be able to afford to get the diff done straight away once it's down here WOOT. Regarding the car transport stuff, a mate from work told me about a site called www.movingcars.com.au, they quoted me $546.42 for brisbane depot to adelaide depot which is very good i reckon.

nah chemi weld wouldn't have worked as the head had blown resulting in pressure forcing all of the coolant out the way it comes in. So i've just been pulling bits i want to keep out of it and plan on wrecking it. cheers for the advice though

I spoke to SA transport yesterday and was told that because the car is being registered in SA under the same name and as long as the car is RWC and complied according to QLD standards that it won't be a problem. As long as there is some proof of compliance in QLD which i've got the QLD compliance plates stamped in the engine bay. So i've been assured that it won't need to be checked out or engineered down here.