cinky

i said historical jap cars. ksevs are a dim a dozen. so yeah go crazy with conversions on it as you are not really depleting the population of them. just my opinion though.

like lonely island said " i gizzed in my pants" well thats what I'm like every time i see a historical jap car fly past me powered by the engine it was built with and if its been worked a little well you don't want to know what i do then...........

noooo not the 20. another collectable car being turned into a frankenstein.

to combat the length of pipe to the turbo would it better to use a smaller diameter exhaust to help keep pressures up when the gases start to cool. alot of R and D is needed for this to happen and work effectively but that doesnt mean it can't be done

any way back to the topic at hand it seems there is more nay's then yay's so i guess that means no one really likes his idea. thumbs up for thinking out side the box and wanting to try something different.

well he asked for opinions so i thought id let him know what other options are out there as most of you have said rear mounts are useless due to lag. well i found these helpful just to stuff a whole heap of air into the plenum while at idle thus producing sightly more air to be able to drawn thru the carbi when going from idle stand to full throttle. I'm in no way saying its a great set up just saying it worked for me in that situation. after all some mild head and cam work would be just as benificial. but if you want to try something diffirent then go for it id like to see how i turns out.

ok electric turbo let me explain first. for those that have worked on minis will know that the carbi is hard pressed against the fire wall so i made a cold air induction but this affected mixture ratios at high speed and low speed. ran rich at low speed and lean at high speed because of the way it was setup. those that know how ram charging works well i had one pointed directly at the grill but there was almost a metre of induction piping between the inlet and the carbi so i installed a inline elec turbo. all it really was a fan to draw air at a stand still. but it really helped to push air into the engine without running the risk of totally blowing it as what would of happened had i put a full turbo kit on it

the rear mount turbo systems you are thinking of are available for the ve ssv commonwhore. i wont nah say because thats every says about my car being more show than go. don't know much about the exhaust set up you have got , is there space closer to the engine to mount it? have you thought of electric turbos? then just re jet accordingly? I'm guessing you are on your opens? if its sleeper/ granny spec shouldnt be too much drama from the blues brigade. i had mini cooper on my reds with elec turbo never had any drama

yeah I'm really up for the gift card idea. that way it guarantees the essentials to get by until back on your feet. was any one unlucky to lose house completely or their cars or the most valuable thing family or relatives

now beerhead i know you had a few cold beers waiting in your fridge but was disobeying police directions a good idea? its all good to tell the stories of how you did it but we just hope we don't have to organise a memorial cruise for a fellow RC member

thanks for that. by the way did you find what you were looking for in your nose?

thats what i thought it was. but i thought id ask first. how can i measure offset. preferabbly with one of your lovely diagrams so i don't get comfused. i thought there would have been a pinned thread for this for lazy people like me that forget to label things when they get put in the shed

i looked in FAQ and search function couldn't see how to do it, so sorry if its there and i missed it. just thought id ask how measure it so i can give the right details about the wheels I'm selling

my dad lives there aswell but going by the news you"d be better with a white water raft and maybe one that is suitable for brown water aswell

thought id throw this up here. The missus named it "keep rollin" (keeping with the theme of the car KPR01N) bought it new years for 2 g cash. dragged it home that afternoon. Its a buccaneer jet boat powered by a Windsor 302 currently fitted with single autolite carby (searching for twin 350 holleys) running twin impellers. motor is almost newly rebuilt with only 25 hours on it. paitn was shagged and a few small cracks were appearing so that has been fixed rubbed back and primed ready for paint so this is where it is at so far

yeah found out the other day it was gelcoat advise was to sand in one area until it worn through the top layers which are the hardest and most durable the from there just continue to work away from the area as this allows the access the side of the gelcoat layer hence making it easier to sand.

over all condition is great only 2 small cracks that ive seen. its about 7 years old used regularly so under side has had a few knocks and scratches. i was using a course grit sand paper with a sanding block i realised that paint is alot thicker and seems to have more layers than on a car so i guess i will be on it for a few days. damn public holiday i need beer to do that much work

did a search heard using caustic soda. sounds a little extrebe plus don't want to kill my lawn

previous paint is from factory has pearl and shimmer "glitter"

was a little causious of these as i don't want to wear it thin or to cause a chemical reaction with. orbital sander with fine grit was my idea just means i may have to block sand after just incase its uneven

just picked up the new jet speed boat ( 2nd hand) its a buccaneer 21 footer fibreglass body with ford 302. fitted twin holleysproblem is paint has flaked peeled and faded is there an easier way to rub or sand it back or is elbow grease the best method. iv done 1/4 of it. and I'm not sure whether I'm doing it the smartest way

has any one manualised a toyota tranny iv had it done on a turbo 300 but i wasnt that involved in it so not sure how exacty it was done

sev is short for ke seventy

my not so informed theory is that hopefully an auto will having a longer range of acceleration rather than a manual. yes i know this also comes down to gear ratios aswell. not so much drag racing but but high revv range hammering. hence why I'm not sure if a manual could stand it plus less chance of smashing a gear if in an auto as it takes out the element of human error

if you arent sure il buy both of them = problem solved