camerondownunder88 Posted January 1, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2007 Hi, OK I have decided to jsut put this alt onto my 4K in the KE30. So I went down the road to the supercrap shop and bough the only universal bosch regulator they had for alt's on the shelf that fitted :D Cost $46 so cheap project so far.lol The regulator is the RE60 just for reference. I then went and messured the pully size on the alt and the 4K and there the same diameter so it will also be spinning at the same speed so this is a bonus. So this regulator has L and S on it so wire shouldnt be hard. But this is also the ack of my alt below: As you can see it has all the normal connections like D-, D+, and B+ and on the reg S and L. Now below is a picture of a KE70 alt: As you can see it has all the normal connections like D-, D+, and B+ but it has nothing on the regulator. So If I install the bigger alt on the 4K I will wire the B+ line the same and the D+ line off the motor now. BUT on the big alt it now has the 2 extra plugs on the regulator and as said before the L controls the warning light on the dash (must be operational for alt to charge) and S is actually a sense terminal which senses battery voltage and can step up the charge rate to compensate for extra load... ie h/lights/stereos...etc but can be simply linked to the main B+ stud on back of alternator. So to make it work can I just wire the S line to the D+ terminal on the alt as this is the battery input so it will sense how much volts the batt has to and then still work at regulating the alt? Then the L line it is for the charge light but the corolla does this a different way with out an L plug so how can I wire this L plug up so the alt works other wise it will just not charge? Alos by wireing the S line from the reg to the D+ battery terminal on the alt will this work? As don't want to "boil" my battery buy pumping power from the alt into it 24/7 cause the reg isnt working? Thanks Cameron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BreakDave - GT Posted January 1, 2007 Report Share Posted January 1, 2007 Firstly... why didnt u use the same regulator that came out of that alternator... either re71/72 it is i think. To find which wire controls warning light on dash... u can probe the existing corolla wiring with test light when ignition is on... until it comes on the dash. that wire goes to L terminal... thats it for that bit. With D+ terminal, the regulator finds an earth through the alternator to bring warning light on.... so initially D+ is an earth.... when it begins to charge, it becomes battery/charge voltage, around 14 volts and turns the warning light off on dash (as now has positive both sides of warning light globe) What output was this alternator? did u beef up that cable to B+. Also the correct plug for that RE60 regulator can be bought as a part.... will look tidier and easier to connect up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camerondownunder88 Posted January 1, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2007 (edited) Hi, The reason for using the RE60 well it was the only one they sell. They said it is a universal one so I figured it will do the job. Will it? As the original regulator out of the alt broke..lol mmm due to out of factory running conditions..lol With the regulator I had in one of my past pics. You will notice it's L and S plug is on the underside of the regulator. On the bosch model this is off of it has a small cut out in the side of the alt there so it will not fit and my 70 amp one doesnt. As that reg I had in the past pic is off my 110A alt. So that is the reason for the new reg. With the dash light this is a pic of the loom off the back on my rolla alt: You can see the ring terminal on the front left goes to the B+ or main power out feed from the alt. and the push spade terminal goes to the D+ terminal. And the D- is wired to the B+ reminal. So if I use my big alt and wire the B+ lead in my car to the B+ lead then the D+ lead to D+ my dash light should work. then ill jsut wire the S terminal to the D+ also so it can sense the batt power and then the L i was thinking get it and just wire it to the ground so power flow so it think well circuit there so a light is on..will that work? If above will work all I have to do is kee standard wires in the car adn then just wire up B adn L. As the new alt has just the D- wired to the D+ and the B+ and the rest of the loom is tot eh S and L. But ina KE30 it works off just eh D+,- and B+ so If I use these and jump a wire from S to D+ I think ill be safe so well see how it goes or any advice you have for me dave...lol Also Dave I have not installed the alt yet so I havent beefed up the B+ line. Should I. I can get some 8 gauge cable and run it from B+ to the battery u recon or starter or both? Cameron Edited January 1, 2007 by camerondownunder88 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BreakDave - GT Posted January 1, 2007 Report Share Posted January 1, 2007 I would not guarantee that the RE60 would work in it, they are very similar in principle but when we have overhauled alt we just use the indentical replacement reg... makes sense and then can be assured there wont be a problem there. Those regs are still available, but u may have to try an auto electrical supplier. Now... i'll try to simplify everything for a sec. When testing an alt on the bench, the only things hooked up to get it to work are: 1. Warning Light: More than likely that push on terminal on the old loom to 'L' terminal on reg (can be checked as mentioned in previos post) 2. The big B+ to the back stud/bolt on alt.... ie. the ring terminal in that loom 3. The earth: not needed when u put it on the car, as alt is grounded through the block etc 4. Sense: Use another eyelet terminal off the B+ and connect to the other pin in reg, 'S' That is all i needs to run and charge like normal, the D+ and D- terminals are not needed as they are connected through the plug on the reg. As for beefing up the B+.... depending on what output that alt can produce, i'd definately recommend it as that existing loom doesnt look like it would handle much more than 40 Amps. It doesnt matter if u go from the battery or the starter, as the main cable from battery to starter is thicker anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BreakDave - GT Posted January 2, 2007 Report Share Posted January 2, 2007 ok... i've tried to do a dodgy diagram for you... dunno if this pic will be displayed tho or not, can only try. maybe of more help than words: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camerondownunder88 Posted January 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2007 Dave thanks for that info. This morning I'm on my way into town and ill pop into an auto electrics shop and see if they have the bigger reg and ill buy it. But what I think will make thia alt work is what you said below. If I beef up the B+ line then on the S plug put it into the B+ one so it can sense it charging then just wire the L plug to the originla push spade connector as I am guessing this was the light and the car used the D+ terminal to originaly sense this. But with the spade connector to the L terminal I am uessing the alt reg gets power from there to charge the feild windings? As I know u need to charge them and well on the KE it go this power from the spade connector so if I put it on the L will it make the alt fire up? Cameron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BreakDave - GT Posted January 2, 2007 Report Share Posted January 2, 2007 when u start getting into the theory behind all these different sets of windings.... its gonna get very confusing, believe me ive sat thro it all..... but all u need to know is that the warning light circuit on dash is connected to 'L' and it needs to work for it to charge. when u go get ur new reg. see if they have a plug to suit it maybe, u can get them and will look neater if ur worried bout that... also may aswwell see how much battery cable u need too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camerondownunder88 Posted January 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2007 Hi, Well I went and got the plug to suit the reg today and also I was told the reg that I have is one used in cars so it will be fine. Also the unit I have is a Bosch BX unit off a nissan so just some info there. I will run the spade connector to the L terminal as it will run the light as you said and just jump S to B+ and well now I have sorted the wireing it is just a matter of putting it in..lol But I have soem spare 8 gauge wire that I will run ot the battery tot eh B+ terminal as it will give better sensing of the battery as the S line will be jumped here and it will help the old KE30 wireing cope with the added power..lol Cameron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BreakDave - GT Posted January 2, 2007 Report Share Posted January 2, 2007 no worries... let us know how it goes ey! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
styler Posted January 2, 2007 Report Share Posted January 2, 2007 dunno if this is any help to you but may be for other people, and its in the faq lol... :D rollaclub faq alternator tech Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psycostud666 Posted January 4, 2007 Report Share Posted January 4, 2007 Cameron, dude, All that mod and it just went poof,....ok, i use Nissan alts, RB 20, 25 give approx 80 Amps, alts off Sunny/Sentra give 80/90 Amps. and they have built in regulators so no probs, just modify the wiring and the pully (these come with groove belts not v type). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camerondownunder88 Posted January 4, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2007 Hi psycostud666, Well my alt I know is off a nissan once in its life as it has an N in the part number and acording to the auto electrics shop that N is for Nissan. And I have been told it was off a light truck of there's. Also I havent gotten around to the mod yet as a few other things happening here so hasnt gone poof yet..lol But with my nissan alt it had a V-belt pully allready on it :D and the regulator was external so mmm I cna then tell you for sure it isnt a RB20...etc one..lol Also dave a question for you. When I do this and upgrade the B+ line ot the battery to about 8 gauge cable can I just run the new cable with the old still there or should I also remove the old cable from the battery to the alt? Cheers Cameron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BreakDave - GT Posted January 5, 2007 Report Share Posted January 5, 2007 Cameron... Its not really gonna make a difference either way.... if the old cabling looks rubbish and is easy to remove then take it out and just replace it with the new thicker one, otherwise leave the old one there in the loom as it will prob be in same loom as warning light circuit, and other power feeds may run off that main positive. So prob just in case leave the old stuff and run the new one aswell, more cabling means one thing, more current flow, but sometimes big mess Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camerondownunder88 Posted January 8, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2007 Hi, Well got the alt on tonight took me 20min to go from old alt on car to new one on new loom done and all that was left to do was put the fan belt back on. But it took me 1HR to get the fan belt on. Ill explaing later But it has to do with the mount shape adn possition and it not being able to move enough. I was able to stretch a fan belt on but after 1Hr for temp relief so I can get to work tomorrow but lets say it is BLOOD tight. But now car idles at about 500RPM when it first starts as the alt wants to charge the battery but after about 2min it is near normal so mm winter cold starts this car now oh YEAH..lol NOT. But I will post pics adn info tomorrow I hope. Cheers Cameron P.S. One more thing I can now turn everything on in my KE30 fan to max rear window dimister, head lights on high beam, Spot lights on I installed, stereo up high with sub running and interior light and cigaret lighter and the dash light doesnt even hardly gow :) So A I wired light wrong or B it makes a lot of power..lol I think it is B as it did glow when key was in ignition and car not on and for a second when motor was starting so but under that load the motor was about to stall due to the load..lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BreakDave - GT Posted January 13, 2007 Report Share Posted January 13, 2007 so sounds like it all went sweet then cameron? also did you end up upgrading that cable? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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