3t Into A Ta22 Celica? Anyone?

[old corolla bloke]

yeah the brakes are good, crona disks and calipers on the front and the back, bolted straight on pretty much, I'm looking at the suspention at the moment, its lowered and bump steers heaps, still it handles like it on rails

 

try to find some 2TB twin carbies they were plentiful 10 15 years ago.......nobody wanted them because we all used twin webers.

 

depends on how fast you want to go!! horsepower cost money. the t series is a capable engine in that car Id stick with it.

 

Ive read every post in this topic and there are a few that raised my eyebrows a bit.

 

you can bore a 2T / 3T to 89mm.......down side last use of the block and custom made head gaskets are now alittle hard to get on a weekend. try for the 88.5mm from toms but still needs a custom head gasket.

 

a 3t crank will fit into a 2T block with the use of a die grinder and a few hours ......no big deal

 

now just whacking a twin cam head on a push rod block is a bit more trouble as basically you need a donor twin cam for the timing cover manifold carbies etc etc. easier to put a 3T crank into the twin cam 2TG.......remember the die grinder!!!

 

theres been a few comments concerning compression from people whom obviously havent done the conversion.....its fine but will need at least premium to run on.

 

my 2cents is take a standard 3t put some 2TB carbs on and drive it to death ,the engine swap in the car is so quick a toddler could do it as every thing interchanges....well most any way

 

shave the head 30 thou or 50thou if your going to put in a cam

 

you can spend a bucket of money on this motor and get pretty good horsepower even by todays standards but its really not worth it in the long run.

[D.McKiggan]

I too agree with Old Corolla Bloke... interesting lack of understanding of these engines.

 

I have developed over the years of racing the following engine combo:

 

3T block - Bored to 89mm (Ultrasonic tested for core wall thickness- some you just throw away..)

3T crank (crack tested)

TRD 89mm Piston Kit (made by Wisco now anyway)

TRD 304 deg. Exhaust Cams

TRD 288 deg. Inlet Cam

Vernier down hole cam gears.

Double Valve springs

Oversizes intake and Ehaust valve

Ported / matched ported inlet & exaust manifolds

twin webers

All chain guides changed to PTFE material.

Compression at 10.5: 1 (But have run 12:1)

Steel 4kg TRD flywheel

Larger head gaskets are easliy purchased - just expensive.

 

Results have been 210 Bhp at the flywheel / 150 Rwkw. But ever dyno shop gets a different result.

 

To sum up these are a great engine when you port them larger and cam them. I have 2 sets of the inlet / exhaust cams and the TRD book says the next combo to try is running both inlet & exhaust at the 304 deg duration. Have not tried this yet but it would be interesting.

 

I have lots of fun racing with this and have had a good run of realiable engines.

 

Just my two cents worth..

 

DMC

[kugzs]

wow...

 

how much are you looking at in parts for an engine like that

[D.McKiggan]

The Piston kit from Wisco is about $750 - $795 i think...

Cams i got at $330 each many years ago from a local TRD shop. Now i think around $700 each. I would think that you could get a wade or crane / or similar cheaper but i don't know about the grind you would ask for.

 

Block .. cheap

Std crank.

Rods... Now this is where i need to spend the next lot of $$$ as i still use standard. I would expect to get the for $800 set?

Head gasket approx $110

the list goes on

 

My dad foung a 2TG at a importer that he purchased for $150 with a bottom end knock.

We opened it up and WOW!!!!!

TRD cams / Steel Flywheel / bigger oil pump/ vernier cam gears.

It was like Xmas.

The guy said he was going to toss it on the heap.

 

Most other smaller parts i tend to make myself. Valve guides / valve shims / porting / manifolds / chain guide wear blocks ect.

Luckily i am a machinist with access to lots of interesting machinery.

 

I suppose if you added everything up ... you should'nt.

 

DMC

[c budge]

y don't you just go turbo get a 3tgte manifold ct20 turbo (can get them everwere) get a caby don't for $400 i had a webber done for this and u will be putting out just as much power as if you where to do all that stuff to your engine and for a lot less money

have a look on toymods there is so much stuff that will help u

[skiddz]

if you are going to go 4age, its not as easy as it sounds (trust me I'm doing it at the moment), 1, you need custom mounts, 2, you need sprinter bellhousing/gearbox (the front bearing seals are different, however there is a way around this), 3, need to make new tailshaft and 4, have to get the bastard running :)

 

i would really recommend not working a 3tc/2tc they really are poo the G heads are somewhat better, but they are still old engines and hard to get bits for

 

and don't got 20v most over rated engine ever ;)

 

edit: i thought i should add re brakes, you should consider the rona/pug/hilux upgrade, corona strut,(rt132/xt130), peugot 604 disk (rda272) and hilux/landcruiser caliper (ln106/ln130) (4 pistons FTW!) as well as a late model camry master cylinder 2003-2006 i think (15/16th bore= you stop quick)

Edited April 6, 2007 by skiddz

[Isaac_TA22]

thanks for everyones replys by the way, ive finally found a decent 2tg for a decent price after looking for ages, I'm going to do a rebuild on it anyway, so I'm thinking whatever parts i can find at the time of the rebuild ill put in for now, probably 2t crank and conrods, larger cams and abit of a bore out (not shure how much yet).

[Retrospekt]

Heres my 2tg/3t hybrid set up

 

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=12513

[kugzs]

if you decide to go turbo, let me know because i have a 3 inch exhaust for a ta22 for sale