Sim Posted July 22, 2007 Report Share Posted July 22, 2007 hey guys, as part of my roadworthy the strut tops need to be replaced as they are all hard and cracking etc. i've got no idea when it comes to corolla's as I'm pretty new too them. do i need to pull the whole strut out? or can i do it in the car? if anyone could give me a walkthrough on replacing these it would be great. i've attached a pic so u know what i mean, in case i've called them the wrong thing, lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Posted July 22, 2007 Report Share Posted July 22, 2007 Remove struts, compress springs, change tops and refit. :wink: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kangaroosa Posted July 22, 2007 Report Share Posted July 22, 2007 (edited) The whole strut will have to come out. -Before you jack up the car, loosen the 19mm? nut underneath that plastic cap pictured. -Jack up the car and remove the wheel. -Unbolt the caliper and hook it up with wire so its not dangling off the brake line. Remove the clip that holds the brake line to the strut so the strut is free from the brake line. -Remove the two bolts from the bottom of the the strut (where it bolts to the ball joint and steering plate). -Remove the 3 12mm nuts from the strut top pictured. -Then just drop the whole strut out. -Remove and replace the strut top. -Reinstall. Easy as that. 10mins work if all goes to plan without any drama's. P.S. If you have got standard springs, you may need to use a spring compressor before removing and replacing the strut top. If you have lowered springs, chances are you wont need to compress them because of the shorter spring height. Edited July 22, 2007 by kangaroosa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sim Posted July 22, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2007 i tried to loosen the top nut just before, the 19mm. but it feels like its flexing or somthin, it doesn't want to loosen. not sure if i should just wrench on it or not? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redwarf Posted July 22, 2007 Report Share Posted July 22, 2007 You may require a rattle gun. I rattle mine on and off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sim Posted July 22, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2007 i was hoping i wouldn't need to rattle them off. iv got a gun at work, but the car isn't registered so i can't take it there. n havn't got a compressor at home. is ther any other way to loosen them off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kangaroosa Posted July 22, 2007 Report Share Posted July 22, 2007 Is the whole shaft/nut spinning? I forgot to loosen the nut once before i took the strut out.....so i used vice grips on the strut shaft inbetween the spring (with a rag to protect the shaft). Once they are clamped on and you have a firm grasp on it, try loosening the nut. You may need a pole extension on your breaker bar to give more leverage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sim Posted July 22, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2007 ok sweet, ill give that a go tommorow, have to nick some grips from work lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Posted July 22, 2007 Report Share Posted July 22, 2007 why don't you take the struts out then take them to work and use the rattle gun on them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sim Posted July 24, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2007 yeh thats what I'm deciding too do now. just stuck on taking the brake hose off the bracket, do you actually have to seperate the hose so brake fluid comes out? or is there some other way that i can't see :P, since the bracket is welded onto the strut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kangaroosa Posted July 24, 2007 Report Share Posted July 24, 2007 Remove the clip that holds the brake line to the strut. On mine, there is a slot cut through the bracket. That allows me to bend the bracket upwards (creating a larger opening) so i can slip the brake line out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kangaroosa Posted July 24, 2007 Report Share Posted July 24, 2007 This pic illustrates it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
styler Posted July 25, 2007 Report Share Posted July 25, 2007 rattle gun ftw on taking the nut off. also where are you getting new strut mount tops from? they arent an easy to find item i have found. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sim Posted July 25, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2007 yeh i realised that today. the guy who i was getting some off rang me n said he was having trouble finding sum. dad did abit of chasing around and found that pedders make reproduction ones, so i'v ordered 2 of those. so i'll see how they go. also, anyone have any tips on releasing balljoints n stuff, like of they are seized in? i haven't got a balljoint cracker handy. I'm replacing the pitman and idler arms. just having difficulty removing the pitman from the thread on the steering box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kangaroosa Posted July 25, 2007 Report Share Posted July 25, 2007 (edited) Block of wood under the LCA and a big hammer for the ball joint removal. You may need a fork to seperate the steering plate though. Drench it in WD40 the night before. Strut tops can be purchased from this link. A bit pricey though. GT Suspension Edited July 25, 2007 by kangaroosa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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