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Posted

Have you tried flushing and reverse flushing the system yourself? Ensure the heater controls are set to warm if you are going to do this. Even a rebuilt motor, unless worked heavily should be fine with the factory cooling system.

 

I used to run a supercharger on my 4K and 5K's and I ran the factory radiator, I had to run an electric fan as the engine fan wouldn't clear the belt for the SC....And I never had heating problems, even in summer in traffic. I used to have the fan off, until I had to sit in traffic for ages.

 

The other thing you might want to try, is running an after market temp guage, I know that at least a couple of my corollas have had dodgy temo guages, and they weren't actually running hot at all.

 

The thing is....

i have had the motor rebuilt! so there isn't any problems there.

the car seems to have its good days and bad days! i don't know what i'm going to do

one suggestion was to get the cooling system professionally flushed! $90 ish

for that much i could get the bigger radiator and another fan. which would allow me to do the motor up at some other stage.

Just lookign for suggestions.

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Posted
Have you tried flushing and reverse flushing the system yourself? Ensure the heater controls are set to warm if you are going to do this. Even a rebuilt motor, unless worked heavily should be fine with the factory cooling system.

 

I used to run a supercharger on my 4K and 5K's and I ran the factory radiator, I had to run an electric fan as the engine fan wouldn't clear the belt for the SC....And I never had heating problems, even in summer in traffic. I used to have the fan off, until I had to sit in traffic for ages.

 

The other thing you might want to try, is running an after market temp guage, I know that at least a couple of my corollas have had dodgy temo guages, and they weren't actually running hot at all.

 

Hey thanks heaps.

i just installed a thermo and davie craig switch. car seems to be better but it still gets hot at 100k's

i've been thinkng for a while that the temp guage was funny.

is there any way just to upgrade the one that is already in the dash? as i want to keep the interior original.

Posted

You shouldn't need the thermo fan on at 100 clicks....and the car with no fan at all should run cool at 100, unless it's a stupid hot day.

 

I'd say your guage is dodgy.....You could try replacing the guage/cluster and the sender, or I'd just buy a small aftermarket guage and mount it down low sort of hanging off the lowest point on the dash so it's out of view but still able to be seen by driver. Or at the very least put a temporary one in and take it for a drive and see if it is actually getting hot.

 

After you pull up from doing 100 and the guage says it's hot...firstly, how high is the guage reading? And does the water boil out into the overflow bottle...does the overall temp of the engine bay feel REALLY hot? I bet it doesn't.

 

Another thing to try, get an automotive thermometer and stick it in the water in the top of the radiator and leave the car sit idling until the guage reads hot...and see how hot the water actually is.

Posted (edited)
You shouldn't need the thermo fan on at 100 clicks....and the car with no fan at all should run cool at 100, unless it's a stupid hot day.

 

I'd say your guage is dodgy.....You could try replacing the guage/cluster and the sender, or I'd just buy a small aftermarket guage and mount it down low sort of hanging off the lowest point on the dash so it's out of view but still able to be seen by driver. Or at the very least put a temporary one in and take it for a drive and see if it is actually getting hot.

 

After you pull up from doing 100 and the guage says it's hot...firstly, how high is the guage reading? And does the water boil out into the overflow bottle...does the overall temp of the engine bay feel REALLY hot? I bet it doesn't.

 

Another thing to try, get an automotive thermometer and stick it in the water in the top of the radiator and leave the car sit idling until the guage reads hot...and see how hot the water actually is.

 

Ok thanks i will try the aftermarket guage.

I took the car through the adelaide hills last night and with heaps of thrashing it was ok. i did find though that the guage

read hot after going up a long hill.

so maybe a hill stresses the motor heaps?

Also how long did your motors last with the superchargers? how much?

and what was the power gain?

Edited by blackrolla80
Posted
You shouldn't need the thermo fan on at 100 clicks....and the car with no fan at all should run cool at 100, unless it's a stupid hot day.

From memory the fan does bugger all once the speed gets over 40kph.

 

I took the car through the adelaide hills last night and with heaps of thrashing it was ok. i did find though that the guage

read hot after going up a long hill.

so maybe a hill stresses the motor heaps?

Depends on the grade of the hill and how hard your willing to push it up the hill.

Think of it like walking up a hill and then run up the same hill.

 

If your really worried about the motor running hot, try turning the heater on full - it gives the main radiator a helping hand in the older model cars, where as sweet bugger all in the later ones.

Posted

My 3K did hill runs with a radiator that was disintegrating. You could poke your finger right through it :wink: And yet it chugged along like a champ and didn't even overheat (that did worry me a bit :D ). Ended up buying a KE30 radiator brand new after that and it still runs cold as. After a three hour run it still is only slightly warm to the touch.

Posted
Dude, when you build a rally car, you don't keep track of the price of things, you only scare yourself after a while! :wink:

 

Fron memory, brand spankers re-core about $300?

 

Anyone done it more recently than me, or know a better price?

 

R

 

My KE30/55 triple core set me back about $220. I was also quoted over $300 for the same job from a well known radiator place in Sth Melbourne. So it pays to shop around and if possible don't shop around in posh suburbs.

I run a 10" Davies Craig Thermo fan as a backup for the std fan on my worked 5K. The Thermo rarely kicks in.

A new Thermostat and coolant system flush can never hurt either.

Posted
My 3K did hill runs with a radiator that was disintegrating. You could poke your finger right through it :wink: And yet it chugged along like a champ and didn't even overheat (that did worry me a bit :D ). Ended up buying a KE30 radiator brand new after that and it still runs cold as. After a three hour run it still is only slightly warm to the touch.

With or without the thermostat ?

 

I'm betting without

Posted
Without :D Well at least I am guessing so. Should I be having one? :yes:

 

 

shoulda seen my thermostat it was sooo degraded the body was sideways and the

spring was just sittin in the bottom of the housin lol

got a new one in and the car ran warmer cos when

i got it it was always icy cold lol :wink:

Posted

My mate has a 210rwkw 4AGTE in a KE38....it has a standard size (3 core) Corolla radiator, and he doesn't have heating problems.....The car should always have a thermostat in it.

 

I'm sticking with the guage being dodgy...my KE35 guage reads almost in the red when the water temp is like 87 degrees....I just ignore the guage :wink:

Posted

Ah, here's another point......Has the car ever had another engine put in it!? Cause there is different temp senders!!

 

I now have a ke55 (was straight 4k) with a 4k with 3k head. The 3k head still has the 3k temp sender in it and this connects to the ke55 4k guage. Normal operating temperature on the guage is now about 10 0'clock. If it goes past there, I know its getting hot. :wink:

Posted
Ah, here's another point......Has the car ever had another engine put in it!? Cause there is different temp senders!!

 

I now have a ke55 (was straight 4k) with a 4k with 3k head. The 3k head still has the 3k temp sender in it and this connects to the ke55 4k guage. Normal operating temperature on the guage is now about 10 0'clock. If it goes past there, I know its getting hot. :wink:

 

don't know for sure....

when i replaced the head i beleive the head i pulled off was a 3k, sooo maybe

the thermostat housing is also 3K?

not sure.

i've decided to get an aftermarket fuel guage and water temp guage

and mount them in the console and replace the old ones with a big tacho.

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