Hes, hearing a large click, but then its not turning over, to me that says starter solenoid fires, so it is getting some current, just not enough voltage to turn it over.

Hes, hearing a large click, but then its not turning over, to me that says starter solenoid fires, so it is getting some current, just not enough voltage to turn it over.

yeah this happens to me sometimes, normaly i just get a puch start and shes all sweet but this morning i was by myself so i just smacked the starter motor with a wheel brace and it worked lol

If you have to hit your starter to get it going it is usually worn brushes..

If you have to hit your starter to get it going it is usually worn brushes..

 

Or solenoid contacts. Some solenoids can be dismantled and the contacts cleaned up with some fine wet and dry for a bit of extra life.

Or solenoid contacts. Some solenoids can be dismantled and the contacts cleaned up with some fine wet and dry for a bit of extra life.

 

I must say I have never seen contacts that don't work start working when you hit them. Generally if the contacts are bad sometimes they stick and weld themselves together and cause the starter to run on when you have come back from crank. If you are not getting enough voltage to the pull-in windings of the solenoid, then the plunger is never going to pull in far enough to bridge the contacts.

 

The way you can see if it is brushes causing the problem, get someone to hold the ignition on crank and hit the back of the starter where the brushes are and if it starts to spin away you know it is brushes. (Worn brushes are not letting power get through to the armature or from the armature to ground).

 

If it is a Bosch starter and it is the contacts that are fautly, you can get a kit to fix them, Provided the pull-in and hold-in windings are OK.

 

I hate seeing people smack the solenoid with a hammer when you should really be hitting the back of the starter where the brushes are.

The way you can see if it is brushes causing the problem, get someone to hold the ignition on crank and hit the back of the starter where the brushes are and if it starts to spin away you know it is brushes. (Worn brushes are not letting power get through to the armature or from the armature to ground).

 

could i suggest you try to diagnose the problem with a test light first before hitting the starter with a hammer. hitting the starter with a hammer could ,

1 free a solenoid,

2 free short brushes, or

3 even bridge a loose connection.

if it starts working you still don't know what is wrong.

 

short the two terminals marked red put a test light to a good earth and test if there is power at the blue terminal. if there is power and the starter is not turning there is a problem with the motor. if there is no power at the blue terminal fit a solenoid kit.

 

Edited December 18, 200718 yr by KE30_KE35_KE55

Deleted

Edited May 24, 200818 yr by Sbox

could i suggest you try to diagnose the problem with a test light first before hitting the starter with a hammer. hitting the starter with a hammer could ,

1 free a solenoid,

2 free short brushes, or

3 even bridge a loose connection.

if it starts working you still don't know what is wrong.

 

short the two terminals marked red put a test light to a good earth and test if there is power at the blue terminal. if there is power and the starter is not turning there is a problem with the motor. if there is no power at the blue terminal fit a solenoid kit.

 

 

Of course you test it with a test light first, Check you have a 12v signal and also that there is 12v at the main post on the starter. Once you have done that and they are OK, If it still fails to motor then you can try what I mentioned previously. You could even go to the extent to take the wire off to the field housing and power it up with 12v too (If it still fails to motor then that is another good sign the brushes/armature are causing the fault). I must say that in 12 months of doing auto electrics, I have never seen a solenoid "free" by hitting it with a hammer, Nor bridge loose connections.. It is all about tracing the path of the circuit, I beg to disagree with you still not knowing what is wrong by the time you have hit it with a hammer if it is indeed brushes (mabey even armature) You would know where the fault lies. The solenoid feeds power to the field coils and brings the drive into mesh/holds it in mesh, it doesn't have any other function that would stop the motor spinning.

 

 

I thought he had found the problem? Bought the bits and was happily on his way, maybe he will reply soon and this thread can be wound up.

 

He has found the problem, But we are still on topic discussing how to diagnose the fault.

found the problem, yes, bought the bits, no. i asked where i can find some but they were still talknig about how to diagnose faults. I'm still starting my car up with a wire from the battery to the terminal, its pretty sad, if i can't source a new relay ill just run my own ignition cable to inside the car after christmas when i have time.

Do you want me to come and give you a hand some time during/after christmas?, after Friday i have 3 weeks off..

thanks for the offer, but it doesnt seem to complicated to me, the hard part seems finding the part.....or if u just think my cars an absolute beast and want to come play with it intimately under the hood who am i to say no.

contact me if you get stuck, not afraid to help out a fellow rollaclubber..

:lolcry: thanks mate, ur a legend. ill let u know if I'm in trouble. :fuzz:

Deleted

Edited May 24, 200818 yr by Sbox

Same thought of thing happens to my car i just kick it or wait a day and it normally works..